imitation rims - are they really not reliable at all?

[shiroitenshi]

Haha. but it simply means like the imitation rims.

just because the few that are strong, think all is strong.

Not all imitation wheels are rubbish, but most are.

Not all japanese shit is good, but most are.

But for me, its just due to wheel design, some wheel designs are just strong even if imitated.

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[DeaconFrost]

Haha. but it simply means like the imitation rims.

just because the few that are strong, think all is strong.

Not all imitation wheels are rubbish, but most are.

Not all japanese shit is good, but most are.

But for me, its just due to wheel design, some wheel designs are just strong even if imitated.

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Yep.

So when TS asked about imitation wheels for track or autocross use - I say why not.

Track or autocross on super-smooth tarmac surface? Better than pot-hole ridden roads during normal use.

 

[mADmAN]

Yep.

So when TS asked about imitation wheels for track or autocross use - I say why not.

Track or autocross on super-smooth tarmac surface? Better than pot-hole ridden roads during normal use.

actually if track or autocross with street tires its pretty much ok...

but once u put on semi slicks or full slicks on them... better keep an eye out on the spokes themselves. these tires will provide huge amounts of grip that in corners will also put huge amounts of stress on the wheels... even ori wheels can break at the spokes due to this... like the Type C video i posted earlier in the thread... 949Racing wheels also had an issue with the spokes breaking when combines with super stick rubbers

 

[DeaconFrost]

actually if track or autocross with street tires its pretty much ok...

but once u put on semi slicks or full slicks on them... better keep an eye out on the spokes themselves. these tires will provide huge amounts of grip that in corners will also put huge amounts of stress on the wheels... even ori wheels can break at the spokes due to this... like the Type C video i posted earlier in the thread... 949Racing wheels also had an issue with the spokes breaking when combines with super stick rubbers

I don't know if I'm imagining things... but when I put Toyo R888 rubber of a similar size with a T1R, the R888 feels markedly heavier.

Can somebody confirm this.

 

[vr2turbo]

I don't know if I'm imagining things... but when I put Toyo R888 rubber of a similar size with a T1R, the R888 feels markedly heavier.

Can somebody confirm this.

Steering feel? Maybe R888 better grip so steering feedback is better.
If you mean total weight, can be also as not all tyres made the same size for size.
My GY Asy2 is lighter then my older GY Asy, both same size of 215/45R17....

 

[DeaconFrost]

Steering feel? Maybe R888 better grip so steering feedback is better.
If you mean total weight, can be also as not all tyres made the same size for size.
My GY Asy2 is lighter then my older GY Asy, both same size of 215/45R17....

Yep, steering feel. Feels heavier when steering.

 

[vr2turbo]

Yep, steering feel. Feels heavier when steering.

Then is the grip factor of the R888 (semi slick) vere the T1-R.....

 

[pwhyze]

Then is the grip factor of the R888 (semi slick) vere the T1-R.....

Make sense. More grip, harder to change vector.

 

[shiroitenshi]

I don't know if I'm imagining things... but when I put Toyo R888 rubber of a similar size with a T1R, the R888 feels markedly heavier.

Can somebody confirm this.

the steering feel already answered,

but its actually supposed to be slightly heavier due to the thicker sidewalls AFAIK.

Was semi slicks ever lighter than regular tires?

I never weigh, but does anyone know for sure?

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---------- Post added at 08:32 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------

actually if track or autocross with street tires its pretty much ok...

but once u put on semi slicks or full slicks on them... better keep an eye out on the spokes themselves. these tires will provide huge amounts of grip that in corners will also put huge amounts of stress on the wheels... even ori wheels can break at the spokes due to this... like the Type C video i posted earlier in the thread... 949Racing wheels also had an issue with the spokes breaking when combines with super stick rubbers

yup, what he said. but most of us not running high grip tires

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[vr2turbo]

the steering feel already answered,

but its actually supposed to be slightly heavier due to the thicker sidewalls AFAIK.

Was semi slicks ever lighter than regular tires?

I never weigh, but does anyone know for sure?

Have to weigh them to find out....

 

[Izso]

I don't know if I'm imagining things... but when I put Toyo R888 rubber of a similar size with a T1R, the R888 feels markedly heavier.

Can somebody confirm this.

Hey DeaconF : I can't comment about the R888 but I'll give the example of the AD07 on my Myvi. Shifting from GY Duraplus to AD07 was the biggest mistake of my Myvi life. Car took more effort to move and FC was badly affected. Almost 100km less than what I normally get. And this isn't even a semi-slick though some competitions say so otherwise.

 

[vr2turbo]

Hey DeaconF : I can't comment about the R888 but I'll give the example of the AD07 on my Myvi. Shifting from GY Duraplus to AD07 was the biggest mistake of my Myvi life. Car took more effort to move and FC was badly affected. Almost 100km less than what I normally get. And this isn't even a semi-slick though some competitions say so otherwise.

Huah! That is many steps jump. GY Duraplus is like below entry level.....and AD-07 is extreme between Max and semi slick....
But 1 tank loose 100km, that is really high....

 

[Izso]

Huah! That is many steps jump. GY Duraplus is like below entry level.....and AD-07 is extreme between Max and semi slick....
But 1 tank loose 100km, that is really high....

Have you ever seen a completely bone stock Myvi corner as fast as a Wira going all out? Dammmmnn AD07s are incredible. Sommore it was 185/60/14, that kinda high profile and incredibly sticky. Lasted for slightly below a year before I could actually see the braiding inside. It was still grippy even at that stage but it is one helluva noisy tyre. Unbearably noisy.

 

[DeaconFrost]

Hey DeaconF : I can't comment about the R888 but I'll give the example of the AD07 on my Myvi. Shifting from GY Duraplus to AD07 was the biggest mistake of my Myvi life. Car took more effort to move and FC was badly affected. Almost 100km less than what I normally get. And this isn't even a semi-slick though some competitions say so otherwise.

Logically we would think more traction = more friction = more FC.

I've not measured FC though since a variance of 20-30km is negligible for me. But minus 100km is already abysmal.

I've used AD07 before. Accident during rain - and that's on at least 80% thread. So I can't afford to put my trust on AD07 if the car will be driven by my wife sometimes. T1R so far so good for street and occasional track duty.

---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:03 AM ----------

Have you ever seen a completely bone stock Myvi corner as fast as a Wira going all out? Dammmmnn AD07s are incredible. Sommore it was 185/60/14, that kinda high profile and incredibly sticky. Lasted for slightly below a year before I could actually see the braiding inside. It was still grippy even at that stage but it is one helluva noisy tyre. Unbearably noisy.

R888s with less than 50% thread also can cause quite a racket.

 

[vr2turbo]

Logically we would think more traction = more friction = more FC.

I've not measured FC though since a variance of 20-30km is negligible for me. But minus 100km is already abysmal.

I've used AD07 before. Accident during rain - and that's on at least 80% thread. So I can't afford to put my trust on AD07 if the car will be driven by my wife sometimes. T1R so far so good for street and occasional track duty.

---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:03 AM ----------



R888s with less than 50% thread also can cause quite a racket.

That is why go for UHP or Max performance only for daily use. Good for both wet and dry. Extreme tyres very good for dry, but could be risky in wet especially those not familiar with them...

 

[shiroitenshi]

That is why go for UHP or Max performance only for daily use. Good for both wet and dry. Extreme tyres very good for dry, but could be risky in wet especially those not familiar with them...

agree. thats why must have two sets, one for monsoon if there is no choice but to run semis. My car on 12kg/8kg springs used on fwd without semis will make the car very tail happy/oversteer/spin easily (there's also the spare 10kg springs I don't dare use on the rear unless I run slicks lol.


For those who complain about FC
But also one reason why your semis wear out and FC badly affected is due to improper camber, you cannot run semi slicks without some negative camber. you run zero camber, the tires overheat fast and wears quick, not to mention the full contact of semi on ground will make steering heavy. As far my experience goes lah.

Personally I run semis with at least -2 camber, sometimes -3 depending on tyre and condition.
btw, anyone know anyshop with cheap r888s in stock ah? federal semis also can either in 15/17" sizes

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[vr2turbo]

Bro. shiro,
You running -3 degree camber on daily drive, then tyres wear off very fast on the inside?

One friend running a combo of extreme front and semi rear with normal camber setting during daily drive, but set to -2 to -3 for track weekend.
Another have 2 sets tyres, UHP for daily and extreme for track weekend including different brake pads....

 

[Izso]

Logically we would think more traction = more friction = more FC.

I've not measured FC though since a variance of 20-30km is negligible for me. But minus 100km is already abysmal.

I've used AD07 before. Accident during rain - and that's on at least 80% thread. So I can't afford to put my trust on AD07 if the car will be driven by my wife sometimes. T1R so far so good for street and occasional track duty.

---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:03 AM ----------

R888s with less than 50% thread also can cause quite a racket.

If it's the wifes car, stick with the safe brands like Michelin PS3 and T1R, etc. And odd you had issues in the rain with the AD07. Mine were bloody fantastic even in the rain. Driving AD07s in the rain is like driving it with normal tyres in the dry. But to be fair my Myvi is underpowered and the tyres were 2009 manufactured tyres (used in 2011) so perhaps the compound had changed. How fast were you going?

Isn't R888 semi slicks? I've yet to hear of a semi-slick that's peaceful and quiet.

---------- Post added at 08:52 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:48 AM ----------

For those who complain about FC
But also one reason why your semis wear out and FC badly affected is due to improper camber, you cannot run semi slicks without some negative camber. you run zero camber, the tires overheat fast and wears quick, not to mention the full contact of semi on ground will make steering heavy. As far my experience goes lah.

Your experience is spot on. I had 0 camber for my Myvi for a day before shifting the front to -1.5. Made the steering lighter but pity Myvi rear can't be adjusted (camber).

 

[shiroitenshi]

Bro. shiro,
You running -3 degree camber on daily drive, then tyres wear off very fast on the inside?

One friend running a combo of extreme front and semi rear with normal camber setting during daily drive, but set to -2 to -3 for track weekend.
Another have 2 sets tyres, UHP for daily and extreme for track weekend including different brake pads....

of course lah, but the wear is slower, usually a year, or if drive less, a year plus.

Wearing on the inside was normal for me, and i thought it was pretty normal too.

Then I changed to harder bush (superpro) and tire wear really slowed down a lot that its very noticable, it still wears inside first, but its not extreme that daily driving with semi slicks is too expensive to consider.

I think its caused by toe change caused by lower arm due to acceleration and deceleration, and the compliance bush is the main reason why, but theory only lah, I didn't really keep track and test all this. engine tech is enough, if study ackerman angle and various other suspension setup, my head will explode.

but expecting even wear when running semis with extreme camber? I think that one is only power of dreaming lo.

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---------- Post added at 09:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

FC wise, I don't have bad FC on semis, in fact i get pretty comparable FC.

But highway only lah. ITBs engine FC in town/city driving is absolute murder.

Forgot to mention I also have two sets of wheels, one 15, one 17".

Recent price hike made me think twice about running semis on daily driven car, but no choice on the rears, running 10kg springs on rear is very scary with normal tires, i remember scaring myself a few times taking corners like a boss not realising the limits of the normal tire and the rear end stepped out. lucky I'm used to it enough to not over correct it.



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[^pomen_GTR^]

of course lah, but the wear is slower, usually a year, or if drive less, a year plus.

Wearing on the inside was normal for me, and i thought it was pretty normal too.

Then I changed to harder bush (superpro) and tire wear really slowed down a lot that its very noticable, it still wears inside first, but its not extreme that daily driving with semi slicks is too expensive to consider.

I think its caused by toe change caused by lower arm due to acceleration and deceleration, and the compliance bush is the main reason why, but theory only lah, I didn't really keep track and test all this. engine tech is enough, if study ackerman angle and various other suspension setup, my head will explode.

but expecting even wear when running semis with extreme camber? I think that one is only power of dreaming lo.

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---------- Post added at 09:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

FC wise, I don't have bad FC on semis, in fact i get pretty comparable FC.

But highway only lah. ITBs engine FC in town/city driving is absolute murder.

Forgot to mention I also have two sets of wheels, one 15, one 17".

Recent price hike made me think twice about running semis on daily driven car, but no choice on the rears, running 10kg springs on rear is very scary with normal tires, i remember scaring myself a few times taking corners like a boss not realising the limits of the normal tire and the rear end stepped out. lucky I'm used to it enough to not over correct it.



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i dunnow for others....

but for me... if running camber setup at -2 or more yet the tyre makan inside only means not fast enuf in corner... :p


last time been running daily -2 camber front and -1.5 rear....all wear out equals...but since now running normal tyre at front..so i just kept the camber more conservative -1.5 front..-1 rear...plus now change office route including 40km highways....save the tyre a bit...



btw i'll give u another trick that could save your tyre a bit and should give a better handling with slight comfort feeling compared to your current setup.....

soften both your front and rear spring...1k or 2k step down....then counter with the thickest ARB u can get..... try it