Top speed lost...

Erm my piston sleeve (maybe) a little bit scratch...
and my lubricate oil always lost every time I drive a long distance...
 
Erm my piston sleeve (maybe) a little bit scratch...
and my lubricate oil always lost every time I drive a long distance...

Because you mentioned block. Probably block also scratch, piston rings loose. If not too bad, can do ring job, but if bad, then re-bore and change pistons and rings too, then expensive....

My old school turbo also makan minyak already. Monthly add a little oil.....ha! ha!:biggrin:
 
Because you mentioned block. Probably block also scratch, piston rings loose. If not too bad, can do ring job, but if bad, then re-bore and change pistons and rings too, then expensive....

My old school turbo also makan minyak already. Monthly add a little oil.....ha! ha!:biggrin:

Feel sorry for you...
Right now have a new headache...
~Saving money management o rebore block put oversize piston o GSR....:banghead:
 
do compression test and check valve seal condition also....

if valve seal never change probably the seal spoiled is high....

use ori/high quality japan valve seal only...cheapo type like last time i kena not even a year already harden and makan minyak really bad....
 
pay higher for important part.,buy only japanese/original part.cheaper part wont long last,and end up pay lot of $ for repair too..
depend how owner love his ride..some ppl just need a car to go and back office/home,they really not mind lot of maintenance process as long as it can move...jalan...till breakdown.:thefinger:
 
pay higher for important part.,buy only japanese/original part.cheaper part wont long last,and end up pay lot of $ for repair too..
depend how owner love his ride..some ppl just need a car to go and back office/home,they really not mind lot of maintenance process as long as it can move...jalan...till breakdown.:thefinger:

Thx for reminder sir jimmyae101...
 
pay higher for important part.,buy only japanese/original part.cheaper part wont long last,and end up pay lot of $ for repair too..
depend how owner love his ride..some ppl just need a car to go and back office/home,they really not mind lot of maintenance process as long as it can move...jalan...till breakdown.:thefinger:

True, some times with local parts, either last shorter interval or even may break down earlier.
I had oil seal problem before, leak after 2 days, refit also leak again in 2 days, finally buy original Jap ones, then problem solved.....
 
Hmmm....
At last...the problem solve...
My car running on "lost Pressure state"...
as the result....----> Top Overhaul due to :

1. Head gasket burn....(high temp due to radiator leak suddenly)
2. Cam cover oil seal also leak...

So as the opportunity came, I change my piston to high comp (mivec std), R3 cam (272 in/ex), pulley (cam and crank), and put a piggyback (on plan).....

Cant wait to see the result....
 
Hmmm....
At last...the problem solve...
My car running on "lost Pressure state"...
as the result....----> Top Overhaul due to :

1. Head gasket burn....(high temp due to radiator leak suddenly)
2. Cam cover oil seal also leak...

So as the opportunity came, I change my piston to high comp (mivec std), R3 cam (272 in/ex), pulley (cam and crank), and put a piggyback (on plan).....

Cant wait to see the result....

How did they diagnose your car is running on "lost Pressure state"? Would like to know as i have similar problem too..:adore:
 
You are welcome. Just some basics on the compression test...

1

Prepare for the test by warming up the engine. The battery must be in good condition since it will spin the engine quite a few times. Testing a cold engine will give inaccurate readings.
2

Stop the engine and remove the spark plugs so that the starter can spin the engine freely, and then disable the ignition system. To do this, either pull the coil wire or disable the ignition coil.
3

Insert the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes and crank the starter to rotate the engine. This builds compression in that cylinder. Move on to the next cylinder by removing the compression tester and inserting it into the next spark plug hole, repeating this procedure until you test all the cylinders.
4

Record the compression number for each cylinder and compare them. The numbers should be about 10 PSI of each other and match up with manufacturer's recommendations. If one or more of the cylinders shows a difference of 15 or more PSI, a problem exists.
5

Remove the compression tester and add a small amount of motor oil to the cylinder that showed a low reading. Run the compression test again to test the piston rings and cylinder walls for wear. If the second compression number is higher than the first, the problem lies here. If it stays the same or is very low, the problem is more than likely due to worn valves or serious internal damage.


Read more: How to Test Car Engine Pistons | eHow.com How to Test Car Engine Pistons | eHow.com
 

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