help!! my 20v idling problem!!

[alex_khoo]

ya...oledi takde hati wan to go workshop againt!!! coz after tukar ini itu ..lastly they say CHANGE to full bt wirng (SHOULD BE) ok ...this few month i oso drive car with ISCV soket unplug onli...hahaha....which vacuum hose should check??...last time service 4thorttle time change almost ALL vacuum hose behind!!

 

[bera]

ya...oledi takde hati wan to go workshop againt!!! coz after tukar ini itu ..lastly they say CHANGE to full bt wirng (SHOULD BE) ok ...this few month i oso drive car with ISCV soket unplug onli...hahaha....which vacuum hose should check??...last time service 4thorttle time change almost ALL vacuum hose behind!!

simply put...check all (all that you can or better yet refer the manual)...emphasizing "check thoroughly"...in my case it was power steering vacuum line...damn hard to see...and damn hard to reach...at first look mine appears visually ok...it took me some time to open the clip and examine the hose one by one...when inspect closely...what i find i'll say "huge" tear... enough to mess up with intake manifold pressure...eventually f^&ked up the MAP sensor reading... but i supposed it will be a different case if ST with afm

since you said already changed the hose...then check for leaks...can use carb cleaner to do it...

can refer this video on how to check...

How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

with old engine like this have to trial and error...always got bugs to troubleshoot...

 

[me2kimi]

As for me, ISCV cleaning is such a waste. Coz spraying it with carb cleaner are not gonna totally clean it.
Here is what's I've experienced. After quite number of times cleaning iscv I've fed up already. Went to halfcut to get an iscv. Changed it in my car and can feel it improve a bit.

Then since got a spare iscv, ti's time to operate it. I've removed all iscv parts include inlet & outlet steel pipe. Now I know that spraying with carb cleaner is such a waste. Damn dirty at the rotary valve. I can felt a presence of small stone inside the rotary valve, and can felt obstacle while manually turning it.

Cleaned it with brush and cotton bud until the rotary valve shining. Put this iscv in the engine and it perform far better especially at 2k-4k rpm BUT STILL NOT IMPROVING INTERMITTENT ENGINE STALL.

You can can see close up rotary valve picture before and after cleaning at my blog.

 

[bera]

hahaha... inside of mine probaly look like s**t compare to yours... what i did its a poor-man-job anyway... not so through as you...i was looking for the vacuum leak...i might as well spray it there as well...

and lucky me...it solve a lot of problem that been bug'in my engine...

ps://avid reader of your blog...keep it up...

 

[D7zul]

stone in ISCV? mayb u use open trumpet b4

bad idling? mayb u need to change all d hose in ur engine. the hoses already serves ur engine more than 15yrs already.. they r all tired already.. y don't u 'retire' them

 

[levin818]

Last time i need to use a screw driver to cucuk the ISCV hose in order to break the harden carbon inside... This ISCV was taken from a very not well taken engine.
Usually if the engine is well taken care and fitted with stock air filter, spraying Carb Cleaner like what Bera did is enough to bring it back to the shape.

 

[alex_khoo]

help!! my 20v idling problem!! Finaly problem kautim!!! (TPS setting LARI)

 

[levin818]

Alex, some mech like to advance the TPS to compensate the low idling problem. This will not solve the problem but instead will cause high FC. If no mistaken, your TPS position already set at correct position.
I am worry now you may have more troubles...

 

[Acoustic]

Lucky both of you write together then reminded me there's a vacuum hose, when wrongly used, it will increase idling by 500rpm, or vise versa reduce by 500rpm. I also kena this before.

Unfortunately I forgot what is the exact name. But the pipe quite big one, not small small one. i.e. around 25mm diameter.

For my case, at first my mechanic didn't know where to plug it, then simply cucuk into the air-box plenum, causing idling increase from 950rpm to 1500rpm. But the funny thing is after driving one week, then idling slowly reduce to 950rpm. Beautiful, but everytime after remove ECU battery, reset, it will start at 1500rpm. So mafan. Another way to let it reduce to 950rpm (official target, see blacktop manual). Is to RACE the car, i.e. go Sepang 5 laps, or Batu_3 (rip) 5 laps, kautim. i.e. go find a place self racing then OK for me. But this is not the proper way lor.

Later we found out, then my mechanic simply closed the pipe and lubang, but idling also OK but after some time idling drop to mati engine. i.e. after one week. This is exactly like above sentence, where ECU is self learning and compensating.

So, could you guys be facing this issue?

Proper idling is start engine, rev will go up to 1200rpm for 2 seconds then drop to 950rpm. Always, cold morning, hot afternoon, cold night. Regardless next to sea side beach or up in Genting 6000 feet. Regardless of ECU has memory or not.

Good luck.

Guys,

as i mention earlier after replacing the idling vacuum it was fine for 2-3days...
i've continue monitoring it.. but came back to its existing problemo....
its still revving up to 1200rpm or more... but the funny part is it goes up
either when i hit the clutch to change the gear or else when i switch on the aircond...
sometimes it stays at 1000rpm... but most of the time its more.... relly funny... However, i got an advice from my fren...
he mentioned it could be due to VVT pulley as well. yea my engine has that
"diesel" noise yet does it effect the timing as well?? anyone could advice me on this please?

cronixz...my situaition is TERBALIK with u!!my rpm goes down to 500rpm
my car oso got noisy DIESEL sound...maybe it was TRADEＭＡＲＫ　ｆｏｒ　２０ｖ。。ｌｏｌ

 

[me2kimi]

TPS need to be set exactly as in the manual. I've been playing arround advance and retard the tps. Advace tps will make vvt engage at earlier rpm and vice versa.
But there are problem with jerking. Engine jerk arround 2000-3000 rpm.
Then after follow exactly as in the manual, no more jerk.
Intermittent engine dead are still not solved.

Another thing I've found out are aircon compressor are not cut off. It turn off when i turn off swith

 

[Acoustic]

I also use adjustable fuel pressure regulator, then one year later piston ring burnt, cause too much fuel. What's your condition now?

Hi all, just wanna share my experience.
I've converted my car to this spec:
SVT wiring mated BT ecu with BT aircon compressor.

And my stock SVT ecu is 9717500-552-1, donno early or later model.

What I notice is idle up valve is not active anymore after using BT ecu. What have I done is I increase fuel pressure using FPR (my AFR is still ok after tested with wideband).
So as a result, my engine is less stall now but still I felt it jerk at fuel cut time.

 

[me2kimi]

Last time I've been playing around with butterfly stopper until....
The engine can't idle anymore.
As a solution, i get blacktop halfcut. Hehe. RIP problematic silvertop

 

[D7zul]

TPS need to be set exactly as in the manual. I've been playing arround advance and retard the tps. Advace tps will make vvt engage at earlier rpm and vice versa.
But there are problem with jerking. Engine jerk arround 2000-3000 rpm.
Then after follow exactly as in the manual, no more jerk.
Intermittent engine dead are still not solved.

Another thing I've found out are aircon compressor are not cut off. It turn off when i turn off swith

can u teach me how to set the TPS for SVT with BT ECU?

my engine jerking around 2k - 3k like u said..

 

[me2kimi]

Follow exactly as per in the service manual

 

[D7zul]

Follow exactly as per in the service manual

i didn't have that..

may i have a copy?

 

[me2kimi]

i didn't have that..

may i have a copy?

Here you go service manual

 

[fstr]

how to solve my idling issues?

svt 20v auto?

 

[Izso]

how to solve my idling issues?

svt 20v auto?

whats the problem