My 20V ST Cekek minyak... Need help..

[Adeen]

i'm super noob man.....to technical for me here...:(

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

my car dun have speed sensor(the one behind dash) and o2 sensor, other than that wiring should be good, the mechanic is reputable one. fuel return line is not connected tho.

ecu memory i'm not sure, but its used by someone i know before but he's not complaining anything. other than that, just my shim is making damn loud noice, kinda cool when i rev it hard, but sound exactly like diesel when idle.

my timing might lari abit, i'm looking for a timing light gun now, but not yet obtain one. I've set the timing myself to the idle rpm recomended by the service manual, not by degree, cuz no gun to test. when the engine is hot, things is normal, beside jerking, but when its cold, it idles very high.

today its raining so its cold, i start the engine and it idels at 1600rpm instead of 1500. drops to 1400 after 10 second. drive abit then drop to 1200. and as usual, if i race it hard, it idles at 900.

Ok,I have run my svt without speed sensor,knock sensor,O2 sensor,ELS1 signal,ELS2 signal,and a/c amp signal before,now all is connected except for a/c signal since i'm using ae86 compressor,so i have to check the wiring first can suit or not.

Speed sensor = it have no effect on idle in my car,but i notice when i disconnect this wire,idle goes up a bit,maybe the ecu do this for fail safe measure since it does not know the car running or stand still,so it does not want the engine to stall.The rev cut will be at around 7600 only.No check engine light come out for 6 month,after that,check engine light come out when i drive above 140 in 5thgear,gone when switch off and on again.

O2 sensor = No effect on idle also,only when i connect it,engine feels a bit smoother,FC just a bit better(5km more journey)

Knock sensor = VERY IMPORTANT,just go get it if u dont have one,the ecu retard the timing when theres no knock sensor,engine feels sluggish

ELS1 = Brake pedal switch,voltage signal input to ecu

ELS2 = A/c blower voltage signal input to ecu

I think the loud diesel noise comes from the vvt pulley,mine also have.

The ecu memory is important also,it stores all your driving habit there to adjusts the engine time to time.If you dont have this connected,when u drive the car,the ecu learns,and it stores tha data in the memory,but lost when u switch off.If u connect,the memory will be alive and used when u drive again.So the ecu dont have to learn again next time.Ecu memory pin is BaTT,check this,make sure it is connected directly to the battery with 10A fuse

Set timing with the T-E1 shorted,at 10-12 degrees

This is what i know..i'm not mechanic

 

[rollakid]

knock sensor i got, assumed to be running properly, never test it, since there's no obvious knocking. engine does not feel slugish, respond is crazy, felt great, just idle not smooth.

els1/els2 i dun really know much about them, brake pedal totally no idea.

vvt pulley is one thing, cuz i heard sound from other 20v before, mine's very very loud compare to them. EFN told me the engine he sold me have noisy shim, won't effect performance, but if i dun like the sound i need to re-shim it.

engine consume engine oil at high load, especially rev over 6k rpm, below that everything seems fine. suspect piston ring need replacement. cam cover seal might need replacement too.

and i just don't get it why my engine run so hot, and the fan usually won't turn. i've seen it turn before, but thats when my mechanic take my car out for some insane driving, when i drive myself, it usually won't even turn.

wonder if there's anything wrong with my thermostat, its new, but its just so strange compare to normal 20v.

despite the minor trouble, the engine had been great and so far so good. plan to change the radiator, its too small for 20v. is there any high performance radiator fan i can get locally?

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

If your fan i automatic,theres a fan switch somewhere on the water route.The wiring would be diffrent from car to car but if your wiring and switch from 20v,the fan switch should have relay.you switch on the key,and unplugged the socket to the fan swicth,if the fan run means its ok,then check the switch,take ohm meter or continuity tester,one at the terminal,one at the fan switch body,check there is continuity,then put the switch in a water and boil it,upon the water boiling,there should be no continuity,immidiately take out and put near your ear,you should hear a clicking sound when the switch closes back.then its ok.

go buy honda sm4 radiator,good

Hows your water routing,is it correct?

themostat should open around 83 degress,water will flow through radiator,when temp reach 93 degrees,the fan switch opens,the fan runs...

 

[zz4342]

Looks like most of us having the same problem.. can you all give a sugestion where should we bring our car to solve the problem?

 

[rollakid]

my water will flow, but fan just won't turn unless its very very very hot, dun have thermometer to measure it.

the water flow had been re-route, block the ori outlet and drill a hole in the front, same method most 20v to FR conversion info you find online.

oh ya, the ecu will learn our driving habbit too right if there's no o2 sensor?

cuz my first tank of fuel after transplant i barely do 7.5km/liter, but now the second tank had finished and i did about 10km/liter

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

If youre using svt meter panel,the temp meter should be 1 or 2mm less than half when normal,which what i've seen most svt are like this,mine also like this,there are others who have their temp at half,also ok..

Last time i bought fan thermoswitch at rm20,because i thought mine is damage,but then when i test mine boiling it on the stove,it works so i return the switch back and the chop shop guy give me refund,hehe

Yup ecu will learn,10km/liter almost like mine,i think thats ok already,O2 sensor wont give much effect on FC

 

[rollakid]

just pump up on petrol, exactly 10km/liter, but that one is because i rarely use aircond (used about 20% of the time only), and shut down my engine on long traffic light wait, roughly saved 50-60 minute on idle on one tank of fuel.

this time no sponser for pumping (sponser = dad's credit card, catch: get real reward points for him), so whenever no sponser i'll go pump esso instead of petronas.

since i pump at nearly empty tank, about 2km after i pump the petrol can feel the engine change in characteristic, very noticable, not psycology or what.

it idle more stable, at 900rpm, but rougher. use petronas the rpm go up and down 100rpm most of the time but smoother. and then i take a sharp right corner and the engine stalled -___-" on 2nd gear. then on the traffic light, i'm with my usual shut down engine since have to wait 5 minutes, but then it fail to start up -__-" so embarasing, then i manage to start it up again but its red light again, dun dare to turn it off again.

so after the stall on the traffic light, i continue my journey home, with aircond on, cuz raining outside already. then out of no where bad idle, 650rpm only engine jerk jerk but won't die, i rev it abit then it goes back to 900rpm normal.

everything is so strange to me, but one thing as expected, synergy F1's petrol won't stink like shell and petronas do, i can idle at home checking engine and there's no unburn petrol smell.

oh ya, manage to try out abit on the way home, although its just one try and probably not accurate, i feel like using esso seems to like higher revs, but the respond is not as fast as using petronas.

any ideas or opinion?

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

I have been mixing up fuels since i got my license,and i didnt do literature review bout what petrol is good,but for now esso and projet gives good FC.my idle also a bit crazy,sometimes mere 650rpm,i dont know whether the meter is correct or not,but the engine is working fine so i just leave it there and also no time to do proper check up.

I have abused the engine pretty much i would say,now its leaking water and oil.Lack of money is the cause,hehe

My only interest now if i got the time and money is to change all my wiring to new wires,ke70 wiring is over 22 years old and must be corroded,hence some cannot transfer current high enough.

Not to mention other things,body and chassis is falling apart,bushings never been changed for years,bearings...Its neverending..i'm planning to get another car when i get a good job,:- )

 

[rollakid]

heck, we had the same car and same problems (well, almost same) lets be good friends

me not thinking of getting another car anytime soon, even if i get a good job or what, but i do have plan of getting a family car in like 10 years time. who knows hybrids will be mass produce by then. hybrid camry w00t

 

[nnik]

So...what the best solution.....??? Im using SC ae101...FC..also teruk laaa..10 bug for 40-+km w/o ac...Thinking of changing my air filter n piping size reduce to 2".
Idling..when cold..of course 1500..then after 2min goes to 1000..
Using Caltex can go 50km-+....others...very hampeh

So far my fren used svt..ok what...with jasma ext, KnN air filter, 2.2" piping can go 80km-+ with hard driving..100km/h to 140km/h...n a/c all the time...really jeleous one...:-)

Lots of part need to check...++ money...wat to do ..as a student :-(

 

[trxxpoyo]

Mine 20V FC also 50km per rm10, in heavy traffic...if go long distance, can go around 70k~80km. i think imy FC is ok because i already diagnosis my car and engines.. i can see from the computer that my car ,my enginesand all the sensors all functions correctly and in good condition... so, just enjoy my ride la..

 

[AtukFC]

for you Rollakid, I am translating it for you.

" Hi ya bro, i dunno how communicate in english.... so what to do? What I know is this is a Toyota Forum... so i joined... is it wrong?"

Atuk... 3sgte? can your chassis handle it.... :D

Thank God i never suffered idling problem and the engine have been in the SEG for 5 years... still no problem. Make sure you or other people don't mess up with the potentiometer at the AFM sensor... check the throttle opening, is it opens smoothly?

The problem must have relation with the air intake process.... try to have everything checked and cleaned.... if still problem... open up your ECU.... if there is burn/ black marks.... well you know... something cooking....

try to contact levin818.... he is good with this theoritical stuff .... since sifu efn not here...

**Atuk dunno psl2 Corollagtouring tp pumen kate boley cume kne oter kaki sket & Atuk penah tgk SEG pky enjin 3sGTE mlh LE yg final Sprint Test ngn Wira yg pky enjin EVO+VR4 kt JB dlu pn pky 3sGTE tebo gak..Skyline RB26 dett pon kena beb! Allahuaklam..

 

[rollakid]

Mine 20V FC also 50km per rm10, in heavy traffic...if go long distance, can go around 70k~80km. i think imy FC is ok because i already diagnosis my car and engines.. i can see from the computer that my car ,my enginesand all the sensors all functions correctly and in good condition... so, just enjoy my ride la..

rm10 go 50km in heavy traffic is with aircond or without aircond?