Bad Idling with Waja BOT

[ahren]

Hi all brother and sifu,

i have seen alot of thread discussing about bad idling with turbo car, but since mine is BOT, it might be harder to trace what is the exact problem. Since i got my turbo kit from zth forumer, the car was running fine until bad idling happened. it was found that my car coil was burnt when my car was hard to start. Recently my car bad idling happend again, i went to my foreman and he added a additional stepper motor (FICD) to compensate the bad idling. But the problem doesnt seems getting better.

If in the case of Bolt On Turbo, what is the most possibility of causing bad idling? and everytime when i start my engine, i must press the throttle pedal in order to make it start.

1) Alot ppl said waja throttle body's stepper motor (FICD) is weak, but my foreman already added an additional FICD which will activate when i on the aircond. Does it really help?

2) Some people said might be the throttle body get dirty, but my foreman cheked and he said it is very clean. COuld it be the throttle body sensor spoilt? what is the symthom if the sensor spoilt?

3)Could it be the extra injector giving extra petrol which causing it bad idling? But after i had changed my original injector, throw away the extra injector then replaced with GSR injector, the problem is still persist.

4)could it be bad tuning? or the piggy back cannot control (have limitation to control) the petrol precisely when the car is idling? in this case, the standalone can help?

5)after all, my foreman said is the intercooler have air restriction which cause the air cannot go into combustion chamber evenly during idling. FYI, my I/C is from VR4, and i think its kinda not logic because all the way my I/C was working fine, takkan it will tiba-tiba tersumbat without any reason?

6) could it be piping leaking? either air intake piping or exhaust piping??

All sifu, if you have experience similar case like mine please do assist me. My car is for daily drive and bad idling is really a nightmare especially you are in the traffic jam. the engine always tiba tiba mati at the middle of the traffic.

[youtube]zmRxAqHdVRo[/youtube]

 

[GT_AUTO]

try n change ur t/b with ur fellow friend who drive waja.at least u can eliminated
the posibility of ur t/b being k.o if u use it n the problem still persist.t/b sensor
also can cause the same problem.

 

[ahren]

thanks for your feedback GT_AUTO.

to change the T/B will take alot of job or not? i afraid my friend not willing to change with me if it takes too long job. from your explanation, does it mean that my problem is actually only caused by T/B or the sensor? i can eliminate others posibility of causing it bad idling...

 

[heavyfoot]

If you need waja tb or any 4g18 parts please let me know... tq. Hope your prob fix.

 

[GT_AUTO]

thanks for your feedback GT_AUTO.

to change the T/B will take alot of job or not? i afraid my friend not willing to change with me if it takes too long job. from your explanation, does it mean that my problem is actually only caused by T/B or the sensor? i can eliminate others posibility of causing it bad idling...

it wont take long lar.about ur question,probably the hectic idling cause by ur
t/b but i'm not sure.usually the t/b is the culprit when it comes to hectic idling.

 

[Lennon]

2)Just clean watever sensor you have....

3)Extra injectors aren't used in idling, very less likely the problem....

4)It doesn't matter wat you use, bad tuning and wrong fuel pressure can your engine hard to start.....

5)I think you need to find a new mechanic, he's bullshitting you..... Is your intercooler really in bad shape??

6) even there's a piping leakage, it doesn't casue bad idling.....

 

[ahren]

thanks all for the feedback.

GT_auto, probably i will find a 2nd hand throttlebody to test out. wondering if mivec or GSR terbalik throttlebody can fit to my engine or not :P

Lennon, i was doubt with his explanation on the I/C, that's why i put discussion here to further verify the problem. your opinion on bad idling is caused by the tuning or any other reason? u can see the video i uploaded here. i doesn't press pedal, the RPM needle just go up and down up and down :(

 

[Jack_Hon]

POsible Idle air valve is week too,

 

[Lennon]

Since your car have been running well until recently, i would say one or two of your sensors are damaged or dirty..... Usingg aftermarket fuel pump or regulator??

 

[ahren]

i am using walbro fuel pump, no regulator. what kind of sensor will be affected?

 

[Jack_Hon]

i am using walbro fuel pump, no regulator. what kind of sensor will be affected?

u using walbro fuel pump will no affect aythoing, but fuel will be inject much more then before therefore rich mixture also........


this problem mostly, map sensor not in good condition or throttle bosy sensor is fault, like TPS fail wil couse raise down rpm also or engine sudden die,...........idle air valve too.......bad idle, sudden too low rpm also......

ignition timing at what degree now > it's normal degree, 10 ?......proton maybe is 10 degree while idle engine..........so waja not sure to.......

another point is, original car have a air hos suck in the pcv smoke, tat is a point too.......so idle air valve no need work too much.....therefore another tube at valve cover is suck clean air in...........so cycle the air and smoke in valve cover.....


sorry bad explain

 

[Lennon]

Ahren, did you change your walbro b4 or after tuning?? You gotta check the fuel pump is it supplied with 12V..... Like Jack said, adding fuel pump without adjustable fuel regulator can cost your car to act like this...

 

[ahren]

i change my walbro fuel pump before tuning. the fuel is controlled by power commander (dynojet product), on the other hand, emanage is controlling the MAP sensor.

actually i not really understand what jack_hon say. do you mean the bad idling is caused by

1)t/b sensor faulty
2)map sensor faulty
3)TPS failed (what is that?)
4)idling air valve (is that FICD?)
5)air hos suck in the pcv smoke, tat is a point too.......so idle air valve no need work too much.....therefore another tube at valve cover is suck clean air in (???)

 

[ahren]

btw, is there any tools to diagnose whether T/B or MAP sensor is faulty? i afraid even after i change for both also no result :(

and also if want to clean the sensor, is it using chemical to wash it?

 

[GT_AUTO]

try bring ur car to eon.they use smt or something to read faulty code.

 

[nan83]

when this prob happend??

suddently happen after the bot?? or take time after the bot??

maybe your car not well tune & it will cause faster carbon deposit buildup in yr engine... it will cause bad idle oso..

you already said that after install additional ficd also the same, thats means yr throttlebody not the prob...

to ensure yr t/b in good condition :

1. autochoke in good condition ( can see when engine cold)
2. when on aircon , the stock ficd will increase the rpm when compressor kick in..



also check yr ignition system...
-check resistance of yr spark plug cable ( stock around 5k ohm )
-check yr spark plug, ensure yr af ratio cun..

better find good mech to troubleshoot yr prob.... :)

 

[ahren]

GT_auto, thanks for your input

nan83, after bot, my car was running well for few weeks. then suddenly bad idle after that car cannot start. was found that my ignition coil burnt, therefore replaced a new 1. After that my car running well for awhile until few months later bad idling happened again. Ignition coil is ok. but dunno the exact source to cause the problem.

1. autochoke - my car when started, the RPM will be very low for 5 minutes, after that will raise higher. does it mean autochoke not in good condition?
2. when on aircond, the RPM goes high.. but awhile later , the rpm will drop drastically. you can see the video i upload in the first page.
3. how to check spark plug resistance? got - + terminal ? how to check spark plug AF ratio???

 

[nan83]

1. yaaa.. that mean yr autochoke not in good condition.. so it cannot control the bypass air to yr engine( it control depand on engine coolent temperature ). Try to swap it with yr friend first...
2. your isc in good condition coz it respond to the signal. but need to check oso, if ecu send signal to open 10% but it only open 2%, it can cause you prob.. check it with MUT & play the isc variable from 0-100% opening... oso see other error code.
3. check both spark plug & it cable resistance, both should be around 5k ohm.... hi performance cable around 0.5k ohm & below.... to check it, just buy a multimeter at electronic shop... just pull out the cable & plug from yr engine, just measure it...
( do some study how to check resistance, volt , amp & etc )
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg


(fyi.. new spark plug for electronic control engine come with resistance , the old one dun have resistance it for carburator)

 

[Jack_Hon]

BYU check yuor any sensor at engine u can just use the multimeter to check,

V and Ohm....

on car 70% sensor uis use 5v only, and the 30% is use 12v.....


Map sensor, tps, idle air valve, also use 5v...........

 

[ahren]

nan83, actually today i start my car and monitor my car idling for sometime. actually i think the ficd not really work up. when the compressor kick in, sometime rpm drop abit, sometime the rpm drop badly and mati engine :(.

anyhow tomorrow will try to swap the throttlebody and autochoke with my fren car? should i exchange the throttle body sensor and map sensor as well?

jackhon, you mentioned about check the sensor by using multimeter. but even if the voltage is ok, we cannot prove that the sensor is in good condition right?