Dyno Results thread.. suck up your ego and post yours.

shiroitenshi said:
Thing is.. that's what head porting is for.. to make power above all the mods you made.. but of course, since head porting here is 'probably' lacking.. (prove me wrong on this, I'd love to be, since then I'll know where to get my head ported.. no, not the one on my neck.. or near my crotch area.. :P)

So you're saying that even the more 'engrossed' race teams here are still trying to make power by just parts combinations only.. For me, that should be the realm of enthusiasts lah.. (>.
I'd thought they'd go scientific and play with ignition timing, cc reshaping, porting and polishing.. etc. Advanced theories to play with engine flow, etc.

Damn... (>.quote]

FYI head porting is a must,,,especially if you use aggresive cams + high comp pistons. Eventhough we dont have a flow bench/flow machine, experience mechanic knows how to port a good head. For those who use parts without porting is completely misleading,,,or i can say amature.

FYI,,,there are many good porters ive seen especially in KL. Most of them are drag teams, dont generalize and think ppl with lack of scientific gadgets will lack of ideas too. If you played this game for a long time,,,you can see which one is good or bad, just by seeing the port size, chamber volume, valve stem, valve seal & such. One day you will know if you think hard enough.

There is no secret bout head porting,, for cc rechaping you can go to machine shop either to "bukak chamber" or welding for "kecikkan chamber". For port reshaping there a 2 ways,,,reduce the radius of bending or do straight ports to the head (ZC engine can do this mod but not on b series).

For the ignition timing,,it will base on your engine knocking tolerence, normally tuner will retard 2 deg before knocking occurs, start by gihg numbers to low numbers.

These are the things you will not find by reading performance magazines,,,it comes through experience, im fortunate enough that my mechanics a crazy to do all those weird mods, so i can learn first hand from him.
 
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V8_nutter said:
FYI head porting is a must,,,especially if you use aggresive cams + high comp pistons. Eventhough we dont have a flow bench/flow machine, experience mechanic knows how to port a good head. For those who use parts without porting is completely misleading,,,or i can say amature.

FYI,,,there are many good porters ive seen especially in KL. Most of them are drag teams, dont generalize and think ppl with lack of scientific gadgets will lack of ideas too. If you played this game for a long time,,,you can see which one is good or bad, just by seeing the port size, chamber volume, valve stem, valve seal & such. One day you will know if you think hard enough.

There is no secret bout head porting,, for cc rechaping you can go to machine shop either to "bukak chamber" or welding for "kecikkan chamber". For port reshaping there a 2 ways,,,reduce the radius of bending or do straight ports to the head (ZC engine can do this mod but not on b series).

For the ignition timing,,it will base on your engine knocking tolerence, normally tuner will retard 2 deg before knocking occurs, start by gihg numbers to low numbers.

These are the things you will not find by reading performance magazines,,,it comes through experience, im fortunate enough that my mechanics a crazy to do all those weird mods, so i can learn first hand from him.

I'm not generalising, but what I'm saying is that from what I understand, it's mostly done through trial and error.. can you say that these people can explain why these parts perform the way they do, and can they really replicate the same power mods on another engine?

Arguably, they can do the job provided they have XXX attempts, but I'm more of a person that ask.. Why's that? or How does that work?

If that guy can explain, then I say.. wow.. you really know your job!
If not.. then I'll ask myself if I'm SURE I want to be a regular customer with him?

Fact is, if you wanted something out of the ordinary that hasn't been done before, experience with the more common setups just doesn't count.. It has to be the principal baser knowledge of how engines work (flow, etc.) then you'll hear stories like..

"This setup cannot get power one lah" (Although you know perfectly well that someone else in ANOTHER country has pulled it off)

C'mon, B series NA/turbos with crazy horsepowers have been around in the US for like years now.. and how just far have we got with ours? 310, 320? on NA? And how many have you seen even attempting NOS + turbo?

Just ask about surge, volumetric efficiency, etc. and people here gives you the strange look. (admittedly I don't know turbo as well, and it irritates me to no end that I can't find one that's an technical turbo enthusiast as well, as least I'll learn something and try it on my car.)

Or at least pay someone to do it for me with the guarantee that he won't screw it up like I might with my DIY curiosity.

I respect the old timers here for their experience and working for a lot time, I have no doubt about their competence in their modding work, They'll know best the limits of some of the parts they have used, so I don't deny their expertise.. esp. Chris's mechanic.. I think I know who you mean already.

But I think having those kind of knowledge might help make for a more 'colourful' modding scene here in Malaysia, with more strange custom setups that 'might' actually work.

Twin turbo's in an NSX/Civic(haha)/etc, anyone? :P

Anyway I'm leaning towards the technical side of modding because I can't drive very well.. :P

A grandmother on tranquilizers could do better track driving than me.. :P

And about the timing.. how did you do that?.. I thought there's always some measure or chance of knocking, since I'm using normal fuels, and not race fuels, so that octane rating isn't that steady. A tankful of fuel can allow XX degs today.. not tommorow when it pings a bit on another tank.
 
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:)

hi, fresh newbie here..

just found out bout this topic and read most of it..

pretty interesting..!!!

i have some questions, but guess i will ask one first.

why my b16a HP peaked at 7200 RPM?? is that normal??

dynoed at Links, the engine was totally stock except 3 things (chipped ECU + Apexi dual funnel air filter with rubber stock hose + Apexi muffler with 2.2" piping)

apology if the mentioned question was answered somewhere in this topic.

-peace-
 
it's quite normal.. a lot of things affect the location of peak HP... cam timing and exhaust pipe size, and inside diameter and design of the exhaust manifold play a role as well, (assuming your engine is healthy.)

I'm using 4-1, so obviously peak power 'should' be in the high rpm ranges. How about you?
 
was the piping too big for my stock engine??

the exhaust manifold was stock at that time..

i will try to find my dyno sheet and upload here soon..

maybe u can analyze it for me :_:

thx for the reply tho

-peace-
 
was the piping too big for my stock engine??

the exhaust manifold was stock at that time..

i will try to find my dyno sheet and upload here soon..

maybe u can analyze it for me :_:

thx for the reply tho

-peace-

Sure.. I'm not that good though.. please include the relevant details such as..

on engine or on wheel? if you can furnish both, even better.
 
here is the dyno result..

its at wheel.. couldnt find the engine one.. but i do remember the figure..

-peace-
 
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here is the dyno result..

its at wheel.. couldnt find the engine one.. but i do remember the figure..

-peace-

actually that's quite okay result for a B16a.. like others have mentioned.

probably has more torque than mine at low end.. you do notice that your torque numbers are ATW, while mine is at engine, and with both being in Nm, you can guess how my car has some serious low end power issues.

I'm guessing the stock unit is a 4-2-1?
 
not so sure, as its the one still covered with (rusted) plate..

and how about my A/F ratio, was i runnin too lean that time??

-peace-

actually that's quite okay result for a B16a.. like others have mentioned.

probably has more torque than mine at low end.. you do notice that your torque numbers are ATW, while mine is at engine, and with both being in Nm, you can guess how my car has some serious low end power issues.

I'm guessing the stock unit is a 4-2-1?
 
not so sure, as its the one still covered with (rusted) plate..

and how about my A/F ratio, was i runnin too lean that time??

-peace-

Your A/F does look a bit lean at mostly 14:1 dropping to 13.5:1 at higher revs. If you got any piggy back to tune it at 14.7 at idle then 13.5: at lower revs going into about 13:1 would be safer.
 
Your A/F does look a bit lean at mostly 14:1 dropping to 13.5:1 at higher revs. If you got any piggy back to tune it at 14.7 at idle then 13.5: at lower revs going into about 13:1 would be safer.

Thx mr Chris :regular_smile:

-peace-
 
Your A/F does look a bit lean at mostly 14:1 dropping to 13.5:1 at higher revs. If you got any piggy back to tune it at 14.7 at idle then 13.5: at lower revs going into about 13:1 would be safer.

nice suggestion on the fuelling.. I didn't really notice the A/F ratio..

so much for the idea that stock B16A's only capable generating 148whp.. :P
 

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