crower cam

with compression around 11.3 is it high enough for jun 3?

Actually it doesn't matter, you can retard the intake cam to compensate somewhat for the lack of compression, but clearance issue with the exhaust valve another matter.

So it's still a bit of trial and error thing for now in terms of cam settings.. unless if can flowbench test it.
 
Actually it doesn't matter, you can retard the intake cam to compensate somewhat for the lack of compression, but clearance issue with the exhaust valve another matter.

So it's still a bit of trial and error thing for now in terms of cam settings.. unless if can flowbench test it.

Need to do claying to check clearance? i still can't find any mech here to do claying.
 
Need to do claying to check clearance? i still can't find any mech here to do claying.

Actually your mech can do claying, it more like properly torquing the head 3-4 times gets old really fast, that much I can say. :P
 
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Hei, dudes, what about JDM B18C swap + JUN type 1 cam + Skunk2 pro series intake manifold + H22A Fuel pump + SARD fuel pressure regulator + ECU rechipped+ 4-2-1 5Zigen extractor & Others internal parts are remaining from the stock ..Any idea sifus ???Can gains 200whp from these mods??Please advise or I've to get some more $$$$$$ to 200whp..:banghead::banghead::banghead:

wah bro this setup where can reach 200 whp
no port polish stock gsr piston

u get 173 whp & torque 16.81 good enough oredi +ur clutch slip like hell
faster get more money to upgrade/change ur clutch
peak horse power at 8500 rpm
show ur chart to all of us lar.....
some of ours fren b18c 200 whp
dyno1.jpg
 
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wah bro this setup where can reach 200 whp
no port polish stock gsr piston

u get 173 whp & torque 16.81 good enough oredi +ur clutch slip like hell
faster get more money to upgrade/change ur clutch
peak horse power at 8500 rpm
show ur chart to all of us lar.....
some of ours fren b18c 200 whp
dyno1.jpg

dcloo, Do you recognized me ??:hmmmm:you talked to the wrong person lor...pelanduk dua serupa in bahasa...
 
dcloo, Do you recognized me ??:hmmmm:you talked to the wrong person lor...pelanduk dua serupa in bahasa...

he must have thought u are the thread starter. haha..... but wonder how he will know if ur clutch slipped? can tell clutch slip from dyno graph??
 
he must have thought u are the thread starter. haha..... but wonder how he will know if ur clutch slipped? can tell clutch slip from dyno graph??

Yes you can, usually it's a very sharp drop in torque, due to power not being delivered to the wheels.

But a sharp drop in torque can also be caused by other factors, like misfires.
 
Yes you can, usually it's a very sharp drop in torque, due to power not being delivered to the wheels.

But a sharp drop in torque can also be caused by other factors, like misfires.

ic, so from the 200whp dyno, the torque also drop quite a lot, does it mean it's also clutch slip?
 
ic, so from the 200whp dyno, the torque also drop quite a lot, does it mean it's also clutch slip?

probably, but that's not my dyno chart, so that one is up to the observation of the driver and mechanic, but small misfires don't cause big gaps of torque losses like a clutch slip does, so unless if the misfire is excessive, so no, you can't usually see torque loss from small misfires, unlike clutch slip.

but IMO, it's hard to get a clutch to slip, unless the clutch is worn.. an organic clutch can take the abuse of a 200hp car easily. The stock R can accept 170-180whp without issue (half-clutch launches kill it pretty fast, so that's why you probably are seeing excessive wear)

As for the chart, it's a inertial dyno, so it has smoothing correction, and so it isn't exacly the best way you would use to notice clutch slip.. I think driving your car is a better way to detect clutch slip, as the point where the clutch is likely to slip is during gear changes, not a sweep run on the dyno.

But evoX2, rather than rely on power numbers, do a timed run.. it's a much better way to gauge your car's performance.

Try doing a 100m run, 400m run, and note the times. if you are an inconsistent launcher like me, do a timed run in 3rd gear (means you don't shift at all) from 3K rpm to redline, and that's your baseline power. The numbers will be pretty consistent if you do it on a straight flat road.
The timing based on your power would be 10-16s (depending on HP), and if you take longer than that, that simply means your car is not making adequate power across the rev range.
(you can use 2nd gear as well, and you can start at 2K if you don't have a long enough road)
The only reason I use 3rd for better datalogging resolution, for my AFR and torque readout.
I want to use fourth, but redline means 170-180kmh.. (O_o)

This is a more accurate gauge of your car's acceleration.

For me, the dyno run is a tuning tool, and it's only 100% usable for troubleshooting if you can have the accompanying AFR and fuel and ignition maps, for at least 3 different runs.

Dynos try to replicate horsepower readings by not factoring in wind resistance, which can play havoc on horsepower readings, so ultimately they are just that, tools to measure horsepower in the most constant manner possible.
 
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So, with 173whp, Does it definitely smoked B16B CTR & B18C ITR stock motor ?I'm not so sure about this coz lacks of knowledge & experience:hmmmm::hmmmm:
 
shiro, is it pressure plate that prevent clutch slip? better clutch disc withstand more heat?
 
So, with 173whp, Does it definitely smoked B16B CTR & B18C ITR stock motor ?I'm not so sure about this coz lacks of knowledge & experience:hmmmm::hmmmm:

gear ratio , launch skill, power to weight ratio, slick tires all will affect the result.
 
So, with 173whp, Does it definitely smoked B16B CTR & B18C ITR stock motor ?I'm not so sure about this coz lacks of knowledge & experience:hmmmm::hmmmm:

If you put in on a shopping cart frame, yes, even a 250c engine can whack a 200hp monster..

Weight plays a part too, and for NA engines making 200whp on a 1000kg frame, less 10kg on chassis = 1hp.

Gear ratios play a part too, as do tires, as they affect your ability to launch at higher speeds.

as a lot of other factors, but certainly these are the biggest variables in terms of what you can do on your car.

Driver skill another story.. I'm a lousy launcher too.

I'm still stuck at 40kmh below launches.. trying to get 40+km/h when the wheels grip, but time to actually practice is minimal for me.. work much la.
 
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shiro, is it pressure plate that prevent clutch slip? better clutch disc withstand more heat?

Pressure plate and clutch pad compound.

Better compounds withstand heat better before slipping.

Carbon (according to the tech talkslah) supposedly work better when hot, but I dunno anyone using those, so dunno about that.

Ceramics are most common, but wear rate.......... ask hattech!! miahahahaa.
 
organic is also ceramic or what compound is it? beside exedy for budget clutch, is there any other budget brand?
say if i buy this performance clutch, if the clutch disc habis then how? need to buy the whole new set or can just get the disc. Will the pressure plate become loose also?
 
organic is also ceramic or what compound is it? beside exedy for budget clutch, is there any other budget brand?
say if i buy this performance clutch, if the clutch disc habis then how? need to buy the whole new set or can just get the disc. Will the pressure plate become loose also?

just buy os giken ...aka clutch loceng
 
organic is different, it's a semi-performance clutch for daily driven high HP engines. It cannot take as much heat as ceramics, but they don't expect you do drag race everyday with it either.

Clutch disc is replaceable, so don't need to buy the whole set.

The pressure plate usually don't get loose, but you can get uneven surface on the plate, which affects slippage, to a certain extent.
 
ic, i thought organic will last longer since it has more surface area than the 3 plucks one..haha...i tried 3 plucks one but i really don't like the feel on traffic jam.
 
wat urs target whp u wan to get then plan the block u change to hit the target

my target aaa...i want to hit above 200whp...hahahaaaaa...that is my dream....using the b18c gsr block that i have...change the piston to 81.25mm ,do the third angle cutting and port n polish i think i can achived...and see me on the 27 oct at sepang....hell yeahhhhh:burnout:
 

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