BOT (Bolt On Turbo)

[beyond_4896]

to all ROBOT's bro here,

would like to know 1 thing. whn u all bolt on the turbo kit, did u guys also changed the fuel pump? or i could just get away with a Adjustable Fuel Regulator? we're talking about 0.4bar boost. And also, is there any engine overheat sign whn stuck in jam or constantly doing 160kmh on highway?

Huh,today i juz thinKing tis problem..

1st i think for clutch.
2nd i thinK for temp.


Any bolt on owner having the over heat probleM>?

 

[alvin24]

normality,
Its better to have BOTH uprated fuel pump AND a fuel regulator present. Better safe than sorry... Turbo kit if done properly... shouldn't have any problems what so ever even if u're driving at 200km/h constantly.

beyond,
Clutch - change to bigger flywheel+clutch... or get heavy duty clutch or racing clutch.

temp - if the turbo kit is done properly... you shouldn't have any temperature ie: overheating problems. If you're constantly revving the engine (like track abuse), then best have an oil cooler present.

 

[normality78]

Alvin bro,

mind to elaborate about the "properly done"? how only consider properly done? tks..

 

[Polytron2]

Alvin bro,

mind to elaborate about the "properly done"? how only consider properly done? tks..

He mean "no fuel/oil leaking", "no water leaking", "no vacumm/boost leaking"

 

[Polytron2]

because i'm runing extra injectors..

finally you did it..congrats
just thinking, why u running extra injectors? are u dragging your car?

 

[Lovemaker]

finally you did it..congrats
just thinking, why u running extra injectors? are u dragging your car?

hello my friend, runing on extra injector coz i'm runing with stock injectors... 1 more thing it also save fuel as fuel is very exp nowdays...

bro, how is your kit? still didn't sell ler?? the header is crack is it?? can u give the spec of it, so i go search in kedai potong... how much did u get it last time??

 

[Polytron2]

stock injectors will cause your engine running on lean even u use extra injector. Just use injectors from L9, L7 or L6 3 cyl. turbo coz it's cc much bigger than your stock injector and after that u don't need extra injector.

very sad laa, can't do anything. I don't know kedai potong will sell header only. Last time my friend charge me 1.5K for 1/2 an upper engine, other 1/2 bottom he keep it.

That header don't have any spec stated, just make sure it's for 3 cyl, combustion area more deeper (other's say low compression) and from 660 EF engine either L9, L7 or L6

 

[Lovemaker]

erm... then it fits nicely izzit?? cool cool... maybe i'll be going to search for it...

anyone ROBOTs here, runing turbo with high cams??

 

[Polytron2]

yep that's true..
how much your boost running currently?

 

[Lovemaker]

0.4bar only..

 

[Polytron2]

quiet ok for newer, only always check your engine oil maybe someday got leakage through valve seal

 

[Lovemaker]

if got leakage then how??

 

[Polytron2]

simple.. just replace with new 1 but must valve seal for turbo 1 and will last for 2 years.
It's my friend experience and for that seal only it's cost him near/around rm 200..

 

[beyond_4896]

wa.... VALVE SEAL kena change aaR..

-.-" wa i scare liao bolt-on..

 

[Polytron2]

of course it's getting leak, NA valve seal is design for non boost engine..

 

[Lovemaker]

oic... okeis... got it.. so far no leak....

 

[alvin24]

Alvin bro,

mind to elaborate about the "properly done"? how only consider properly done? tks..

no... i totally do not mean what Polytron2 mentioned.

Err... what is 'properly done' ah... how to explain leh? Meaning u did everything correctly, and you have gotten everything that you'll be needing to run a reliable turbo kit.
Make sure the turbo's cooled properly (at least oil cooled, if can get it water as well then even better), your compression is not too high, your boost is stable, the fuel pump is pumping enuff fuel, fuel pressure high enuff, oil pressure high enuff, and MOST importantly tuning done to perfection! (not sure if i left out anything...)



There's no difference beween n/a and turbo valve seals... valve seals are designed to take pressure.... boost and vacuum are both exert pressure just in different directions.
As a matter of fact if u think of it, assuming u're boosting only 0.4 bar... make it known that n/a on idling exerts up to 0.7 bar of pressure (you'll see it as -0.7 bar on ur boost meter)... so if the valve seals are going to leak, its going to be more likely because of the vacuum rather than the boost.
The only difference the turbo is going to make to the valve seals is the higher wear and tear rate... because the valve seals will constantly go through big changes in pressure.

N/A and turbo cams... actually n/a cams are better... i know a lotta turbo try and get n/a cams to fit back into their turbo engines... coz' the lift is usually higher. I also did the same thing (you can measure yours to make sure).

 

[Lovemaker]

so streets cams and high cams are not advise to be used is it??

 

[alvin24]

err... did i not just said most turbo people DO look for n/a cams to put them in?

But anyway... high cams oso got limit lar... not too high... also depending on car.. like GSR, EVO all this, 272 degree cams are pretty maxed out liau... turbo cars don't rev high mar... so no point getting those too high cams.

My mech's VR4 using 272 cams... so is my neighbour's evo. The turbo spools faster... turbo respond is better.

 

[Joeker]

turbo cars don't rev high mar... so no point getting those too high cams.

THe turbo's map will affect the cam profile and vice versa.

THe purpose of having a hi flowing big ass boosting turbo will be defeated if the intake is choked by narrow cam durations.

Cam duration and turbo's map flow like as in any other engine mods need to complement each another.

In any case, the engine builder has to decide at which range of the RPM does the power needs to come in before deciding on what turbo and cams to use.