Mine has all the above you mentioned, arrowhead, the price exceeds 14k. The forged rods and pistons alone costs nearly 5k. Not to mention i'm using a b18c strokers on mine to reduce piston speed. Still, I do like my b16a for it's insane robustness, too bad it's just collecting dust for now. Waiting for people to get tired of the eg so I can snap up a second hand one on the cheap and put that one in. Without a/c&power steering, it'll make a great fun car to track around with akuma. Ha ha.
Still, like akuma said, Basic setup is enough for daily driving not seeing constant 8k rpm. The great low end torque.
Cf4 pistons, block & rod prep, the balancing recommended, but optional.
The b20b block is lacking a lot of reinforcement compared to the b16/b18, so don't expect it to be strong. It's a great engine for daily driving though.
I highly recommend it for ek owners who just want the pickup, and not go nuts with high rev. Heck i've driven a non vtec b20b on an ek, and the additional torque is very welcome on the heavy ek4. Who cares if it can't hit 8k rpm. It's a daily driver!
:ARP Headstuds..i think ur good to go...
How about block guard bro... do I need it when I already have main girdle kit...
I don't think B16B or B18CR blocks use block guards...
As mentioned by adeg, ARP Headstud would be a must.
IMO, block guard is good in the sense that you get more sleeve strength but then this could possibly lead to cooling issues as the block guard uses up a lot of the water jacket space. To overcome this, you can actually align the block and pistons properly. Although block guards are not expensive, to do the above said thing, its gonna cost quite a lot. So, you might just want to resleeve your block. But then again, I never heard of any heating issues because of block guards.
If you have more budget, I would seriously recommend a custom block for more revving and more importantly peace of mind. I hope to get that when I build my bottom. Hehe but that's just a plan/hope/wish that is far from reality to me.
u should look into oil sump baffles as well..
the girdle is good to have but i heard quite a few things have to change like oil sump...oil sump studs etc etc....not too sure about this as i didnt install a girdle in my B20....but i did find an aftermarket girdle in the marketplace which looks quite interesting...
my b20 has the block guard as well as the baffle. i also balanced the engine and using ACL bearings.
this is how my block looks like after it came back from the machine shop for boring to 85mm and installing block guard
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/297593_241238825912794_100000800350825_640928_1012802_n.jpg
*this exact block is for sale, me now on diff block, change setup*
anyway.. B20s + high rev usually dont mix... i wouldnt bother going past 8k rpm especially if ur using stock honda cams
btw, where did u get the YCP pistons? and how much are they? care to share the link?

Check this out:
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+b20b+84mm+b16b+high+compression+piston+kit-13395577.htm
But I doubt the quality and durability.
Yes, looks like stock B20 pistons. and the price is below 1k i think. 81mm is selling for about 600 bucks. Should be around there. The price is tempting but never heard of the brand, don't know how is the quality.
YCP and RS Machines have the same exact design which follows the B18C-R piston design but with bores up to 85mm for both brands.
last i checked on the YCP they cost around RM7xx after conversion while the RS Machines are 1xxx. but this was quite some time ago
not sure about the material differences. also the link given, notice the RACE rings mentioned? ive read on hondatech that the YCP comes with some good quality rings.. not sure wat rings the RS comes with
the link ddv gave would higher compression compared to the RS/YCP (if u get the dome one of course).
as for oil pan...forget morrosso.... ull end up losing ground clearance due to the bigger size and u need 5L of engine oil. good for track/drag cars, not really for our malaysian roads. the oil sump baffle can get it custom made... i got mine made for RM100 by my mech in sri muda...looks gheto...but it works. it basically just 2 pices of sheet metal inside the stock oil sump (for b series). but if ur getting a girdle, remember to check for clearance etc
as for oil pan...forget morrosso.... ull end up losing ground clearance due to the bigger size and u need 5L of engine oil. good for track/drag cars, not really for our malaysian roads. the oil sump baffle can get it custom made... i got mine made for RM100 by my mech in sri muda...looks gheto...but it works. it basically just 2 pices of sheet metal inside the stock oil sump (for b series). but if ur getting a girdle, remember to check for clearance etc