B20vtec

oowwhh...dat car?rumour has it it's now in d process of shoving in a C32B!hahahahah
 
no doubt its cheaper and it gives u the power, but my philosophy is, if u wanna turbo, go for a turbo engine, vtec is for NA... =Pp
 
Mine has all the above you mentioned, arrowhead, the price exceeds 14k. The forged rods and pistons alone costs nearly 5k. Not to mention i'm using a b18c strokers on mine to reduce piston speed. Still, I do like my b16a for it's insane robustness, too bad it's just collecting dust for now. Waiting for people to get tired of the eg so I can snap up a second hand one on the cheap and put that one in. Without a/c&power steering, it'll make a great fun car to track around with akuma. Ha ha.

Still, like akuma said, Basic setup is enough for daily driving not seeing constant 8k rpm. The great low end torque.

Cf4 pistons, block & rod prep, the balancing recommended, but optional.
The b20b block is lacking a lot of reinforcement compared to the b16/b18, so don't expect it to be strong. It's a great engine for daily driving though.

I highly recommend it for ek owners who just want the pickup, and not go nuts with high rev. Heck i've driven a non vtec b20b on an ek, and the additional torque is very welcome on the heavy ek4. Who cares if it can't hit 8k rpm. It's a daily driver!

Bro can you comment on this setup, can rev high or not :smokin::

1. Head - B16A
2. Block - B20B
3. Piston - YCP (cast iron)
4. Conrod - Eagle (forged, stock length)
5. Rod bolts - ARP
6. Main girdle kit - ARP

I want the high revs not only because of power, but to go around corners faster.
 
How about block guard bro... do I need it when I already have main girdle kit...

I don't think B16B or B18CR blocks use block guards...

As mentioned by adeg, ARP Headstud would be a must.

IMO, block guard is good in the sense that you get more sleeve strength but then this could possibly lead to cooling issues as the block guard uses up a lot of the water jacket space. To overcome this, you can actually align the block and pistons properly. Although block guards are not expensive, to do the above said thing, its gonna cost quite a lot. So, you might just want to resleeve your block. But then again, I never heard of any heating issues because of block guards.

If you have more budget, I would seriously recommend a custom block for more revving and more importantly peace of mind. I hope to get that when I build my bottom. Hehe but that's just a plan/hope/wish that is far from reality to me.
 
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As mentioned by adeg, ARP Headstud would be a must.

IMO, block guard is good in the sense that you get more sleeve strength but then this could possibly lead to cooling issues as the block guard uses up a lot of the water jacket space. To overcome this, you can actually align the block and pistons properly. Although block guards are not expensive, to do the above said thing, its gonna cost quite a lot. So, you might just want to resleeve your block. But then again, I never heard of any heating issues because of block guards.

If you have more budget, I would seriously recommend a custom block for more revving and more importantly peace of mind. I hope to get that when I build my bottom. Hehe but that's just a plan/hope/wish that is far from reality to me.

Thanks boss, I think I won't install block guard. bambam didn't even install girdle kit, but I'll take the Type R route and will install it.

Custom block as in custom Endyn block? Costs as much as a B18C halfcut ain't it?
 
No prob bro.

Yes, those custom blocks cost is close to B18C halfcuts. Lol..

Good luck in your build and keep us posted.
 
u should look into oil sump baffles as well..

the girdle is good to have but i heard quite a few things have to change like oil sump...oil sump studs etc etc....not too sure about this as i didnt install a girdle in my B20....but i did find an aftermarket girdle in the marketplace which looks quite interesting...

my b20 has the block guard as well as the baffle. i also balanced the engine and using ACL bearings.

this is how my block looks like after it came back from the machine shop for boring to 85mm and installing block guard

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/297593_241238825912794_100000800350825_640928_1012802_n.jpg
*this exact block is for sale, me now on diff block, change setup*



anyway.. B20s + high rev usually dont mix... i wouldnt bother going past 8k rpm especially if ur using stock honda cams


btw, where did u get the YCP pistons? and how much are they? care to share the link?
 
u should look into oil sump baffles as well..

the girdle is good to have but i heard quite a few things have to change like oil sump...oil sump studs etc etc....not too sure about this as i didnt install a girdle in my B20....but i did find an aftermarket girdle in the marketplace which looks quite interesting...

my b20 has the block guard as well as the baffle. i also balanced the engine and using ACL bearings.

this is how my block looks like after it came back from the machine shop for boring to 85mm and installing block guard

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/297593_241238825912794_100000800350825_640928_1012802_n.jpg
*this exact block is for sale, me now on diff block, change setup*



anyway.. B20s + high rev usually dont mix... i wouldnt bother going past 8k rpm especially if ur using stock honda cams


btw, where did u get the YCP pistons? and how much are they? care to share the link?

Kalau gua ada duit gua nak tukar Moroso oil pan, tapi theme gua ialah: budget giant-killing ekekeke... :driver:

85mm wow bro... I think I'll stick to stock B20 bore first...

YCP pistons are on sale for USD264.95 at ebay but I'm not buying them yet, so not sure about 84mm availability and international delivery...

What I'll be asking next could be controversial:

Are RS Machine and YCP pistons exactly identical?
 
Check this out:
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+b20b+84mm+b16b+high+compression+piston+kit-13395577.htm

But I doubt the quality and durability.
 
Check this out:
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+b20b+84mm+b16b+high+compression+piston+kit-13395577.htm

But I doubt the quality and durability.

Hmmmm P3F... 84mm... brand new... copied stock B20B pistons with cut reliefs?

Looks different from YCP (P72 rep for 84mm bore):

http://teamdohc.org/forums/index.php?topic=407.0
 
Yes, looks like stock B20 pistons. and the price is below 1k i think. 81mm is selling for about 600 bucks. Should be around there. The price is tempting but never heard of the brand, don't know how is the quality.
 
YCP and RS Machines have the same exact design which follows the B18C-R piston design but with bores up to 85mm for both brands.

last i checked on the YCP they cost around RM7xx after conversion while the RS Machines are 1xxx. but this was quite some time ago

not sure about the material differences. also the link given, notice the RACE rings mentioned? ive read on hondatech that the YCP comes with some good quality rings.. not sure wat rings the RS comes with

the link ddv gave would higher compression compared to the RS/YCP (if u get the dome one of course).

as for oil pan...forget morrosso.... ull end up losing ground clearance due to the bigger size and u need 5L of engine oil. good for track/drag cars, not really for our malaysian roads. the oil sump baffle can get it custom made... i got mine made for RM100 by my mech in sri muda...looks gheto...but it works. it basically just 2 pices of sheet metal inside the stock oil sump (for b series). but if ur getting a girdle, remember to check for clearance etc
 
YCP and RS Machines have the same exact design which follows the B18C-R piston design but with bores up to 85mm for both brands.

last i checked on the YCP they cost around RM7xx after conversion while the RS Machines are 1xxx. but this was quite some time ago

not sure about the material differences. also the link given, notice the RACE rings mentioned? ive read on hondatech that the YCP comes with some good quality rings.. not sure wat rings the RS comes with

the link ddv gave would higher compression compared to the RS/YCP (if u get the dome one of course).

as for oil pan...forget morrosso.... ull end up losing ground clearance due to the bigger size and u need 5L of engine oil. good for track/drag cars, not really for our malaysian roads. the oil sump baffle can get it custom made... i got mine made for RM100 by my mech in sri muda...looks gheto...but it works. it basically just 2 pices of sheet metal inside the stock oil sump (for b series). but if ur getting a girdle, remember to check for clearance etc

It's a pity that we can't get those RS and YCP pistons easily here. What we have are Wiseco, CP and Supertech. Other than that, susah to cari.

The mudah link that I posted above, is it the dome one? Why do you say that the compression would be higher?
 
yeah the RS and YCP are not available in shops here but u can order them from ebay...i even found used RS in mudah.my before.

the link u gave will give higher compression coz the dome is higher...the RS and YCP follows the B18C-R piston design which has a lower dome.

i have a friend whos been using those pistons u linked but in 83mm in his B18C GSR....hes been using it for about a month and so far no issues with it. with those pistons and Toda C2 cams + VAFC hes pushing about 21xwhp.
 
as for oil pan...forget morrosso.... ull end up losing ground clearance due to the bigger size and u need 5L of engine oil. good for track/drag cars, not really for our malaysian roads. the oil sump baffle can get it custom made... i got mine made for RM100 by my mech in sri muda...looks gheto...but it works. it basically just 2 pices of sheet metal inside the stock oil sump (for b series). but if ur getting a girdle, remember to check for clearance etc

Thanks bro, you're right as I read more I realize a lot of stuffs are probably just luxuries rather than necessities. In one US forum thread people were even dissing aftermarket camber kits and promoting OEM Honda. And these are people who have bought and used camber kits.

I'll just add more time to careful planning rather than buying into a hype.
 

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