Show us your lancer/evo pics!

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6UE5t

6,000 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 8, 2010
6,756
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Kuala Lumpur
Btw so far can only get 360+km from 50ltrs of ron97, and that's already by driving smoothly all the time with just minor jams/idling! Lol
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Aug 1, 2013
666
130
543
Kuala Lumpur
Next questions, what's the most recommended value for money for:
-boost meter? The smaller the better. Defi is out of consideration coz expensive.
-turbo timer (my tuner suggested APEXi pen timer but seems not available new anymore for original Japan)
-A/F meter, also the smaller the better. So far only AEM comes to mind.
-boost controller. My tuner suggested Greddy Profec B if not mistaken.
im using innovate scg1,1.9k including 3 port solenoid and LSU4.9 sensor it has following feature
-shiftlight
-fail safe *cutoff boost if afr running lean
-display boost and afr
-complicate boost setup and wastegate sprind dependable.
-data log capable
-can communicate with standalone. i've done it with link plugin ecu.

profec is good boost controller and user friendly.

can buy reasonable price defi and apexi pen timer, nos condition from reputable jdm halfcut shop
 
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vr2turbo

((( God Level 30,000 RPM )))
Helmet Clan
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May 11, 2010
30,002
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Petaling Jaya
Btw so far can only get 360+km from 50ltrs of ron97, and that's already by driving smoothly all the time with just minor jams/idling! Lol
Welcome to turbo world. I used to get 320 to 360 for VR, now old even less.......lol
 

6UE5t

6,000 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 8, 2010
6,756
1,300
1,713
Kuala Lumpur
im using innovate scg1,1.9k including 3 port solenoid and LSU4.9 sensor it has following feature
-shiftlight
-fail safe *cutoff boost if afr running lean
-display boost and afr
-complicate boost setup and wastegate sprind dependable.
-data log capable
-can communicate with standalone. i've done it with link plugin ecu.

profec is good boost controller and user friendly.

can buy reasonable price defi and apexi pen timer, nos condition from reputable jdm halfcut shop
Sounds like a great device. So if I use this then I don't need to buy a separate boost meter right? Coz this is like one device for both AFR & boost meter together with failsafe, isn't it?
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Aug 1, 2013
666
130
543
Kuala Lumpur
Welcome to turbo world. I used to get 320 to 360 for VR, now old even less.......lol
time for rebuild!

Sounds like a great device. So if I use this then I don't need to buy a separate boost meter right? Coz this is like one device for both AFR & boost meter together with failsafe, isn't it?
no need for seperate meter. scg1 is one 52mm meter for 2 display, it display both afr and boost same time.

Yup, comes with failsafe. there's boost controller too but abit troublesome to set for new user. It doesnt have any hi low.

If you want different boost setup, can do it this way:

low: switch off solenoid control and your boost will be based on your wastegate spring.( failsafe is off too)
Hi : switch on solenoid control (failsafe is on)
 
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IZME

Junior Member
Aug 20, 2019
12
3
3
75
100_4796666.jpg
What the Engine Looks like now.jpg
100_4799999.jpg
100_47944444.jpg
I just finished restoring my 1995 Lancer Glxi. I personaly did all the painting and body work plus engine overhaul. It has a new front and rear suspension. It took me 2 years to complete. It looks better in person than the pictures.
 
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Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
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Mar 28, 2004
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IZME

Junior Member
Aug 20, 2019
12
3
3
75
That's a pretty impressive restore. LHD? American car? How much did you end up spending on the refresh? Damnnnn
No it’s a Philippine car I bought for 30,000 Pesos / 574.00 USD had been setting for 4 years. Total costs including the car, parts and paint cost 278,000 Pesos / 5,320.00 USD. It runs and drives like a new car no rattles at all, also the inside looks new. Everything works including the power windows, auto door locks and aircon. All the rust I cut out and welded in new sheet metal. Then a light coating of body filler over welded areas. Then 2 coats of primmer, 3 coats of base a course metallic blue with a little pearl mixed in. The hood, roof, trunk and spoiler I painted them a course metallic black with a little blue mixed in. Mixed a little of the blue base with the clear coat, 3 coats over the whole body and finished it off with 2 coats of clear nothing mixed in. Close up it looks like a mini metal flake paint job.

The picture I just finished welding in the new sheet metal and it’s all sanded. I removed all the glass for painting. I’m an Expat from the USA
BEFORE.JPG
 
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gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,109
695
713
38
Melaka
No it’s a Philippine car I bought for 30,000 Pesos / 574.00 USD had been setting for 4 years. Total costs including the car, parts and paint cost 278,000 Pesos / 5,320.00 USD. It runs and drives like a new car no rattles at all, also the inside looks new. Everything works including the power windows, auto door locks and aircon. All the rust I cut out and welded in new sheet metal. Then a light coating of body filler over welded areas. Then 2 coats of primmer, 3 coats of base a course metallic blue with a little pearl mixed in. The hood, roof, trunk and spoiler I painted them a course metallic black with a little blue mixed in. Mixed a little of the blue base with the clear coat, 3 coats over the whole body and finished it off with 2 coats of clear nothing mixed in. Close up it looks like a mini metal flake paint job.

The picture I just finished welding in the new sheet metal and it’s all sanded. I removed all the glass for painting. I’m an Expat from the USA
View attachment 575826
Please post a story on the journey pls.....
Its been a while since we read abt a restoration project.
 

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 30, 2012
1,367
226
663
Kuala Lumpur
No it’s a Philippine car I bought for 30,000 Pesos / 574.00 USD had been setting for 4 years. Total costs including the car, parts and paint cost 278,000 Pesos / 5,320.00 USD. It runs and drives like a new car no rattles at all, also the inside looks new. Everything works including the power windows, auto door locks and aircon. All the rust I cut out and welded in new sheet metal. Then a light coating of body filler over welded areas. Then 2 coats of primmer, 3 coats of base a course metallic blue with a little pearl mixed in. The hood, roof, trunk and spoiler I painted them a course metallic black with a little blue mixed in. Mixed a little of the blue base with the clear coat, 3 coats over the whole body and finished it off with 2 coats of clear nothing mixed in. Close up it looks like a mini metal flake paint job.

The picture I just finished welding in the new sheet metal and it’s all sanded. I removed all the glass for painting. I’m an Expat from the USA
View attachment 575826
Kudos