Engine need to warm up or just a myth?

ken yeang

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When the car engine is left out cold the night before, would warming up the engine (from fast idle and settle to idle speed) beneficial to engine longevity?

Should we start engine, wait until the idle settle and then drive? or
Should we just start engine, drive slowly, so the engine warms up quicker, rather than waiting for the idle to settle?

I know that cars engine today are managed by computer, but are the management system, or how much the management system takes into account during cold engine start?
 
malaysia would not be as cold as winter...

carburator need to warm up due to using choke...

modern FI doesnt need to...it can compensate...

i think even race car need half a lap to warm up the engine...
 
Modern engine with efi have ecu to control the mixture during cold.basically u can just drive away after u start the engine.left idling it will vary from one engine to another for the idle to settle at operating temperature.
fot example my campro takes less than 20 min for the fan to start kick in but my 1.8 waja will take nearly 30 min for that to happen.

what do i do every morning?
i start my engine and went to check on my moms potted plant and my bonsai,water down 2 cars which was parked outside and walk around the house.
these will take 1-3 min.then i drive to work.
 
When the car engine is left out cold the night before, would warming up the engine (from fast idle and settle to idle speed) beneficial to engine longevity?

Should we start engine, wait until the idle settle and then drive? or
Should we just start engine, drive slowly, so the engine warms up quicker, rather than waiting for the idle to settle?

I know that cars engine today are managed by computer, but are the management system, or how much the management system takes into account during cold engine start?

For me your second choice. I start the car wait for oil to circulate for a few seconds before driving off slowly. No high revs for a km or 2.....:driver:
Want to burn more fuel you can warm up longer, and I know got one or two who really idle the car for like 10 to 15 minutes before driving off....
 
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Some would say that warming up idling cause more fuel burnt, and bad for environment.
Many prefer to idle engine abit, let oil circulate within the engine, and the drive slowly to warm up the car....

Warm up engine is one matter, but I am keen to find out if engine internals could be damaged if insufficient warm up of engine...
Revving engine after cold start definitely kills the engine....
 
Some would say that warming up idling cause more fuel burnt, and bad for environment.
Many prefer to idle engine abit, let oil circulate within the engine, and the drive slowly to warm up the car....

Warm up engine is one matter, but I am keen to find out if engine internals could be damaged if insufficient warm up of engine...
Revving engine after cold start definitely kills the engine....

No need to warm up until operating temperature. Anyway, there is a saying that the highest wear in the engine is at start up. This is because most oil have return to the sump due to gravity, so highest wear is when starting a car as most parts are not fully lubricated. Once the pump starts to pump the oil you are good to go.....:driver:
 
For me...cold start n drive is like when u wake up from sleep n then run/sprint straight away...hehe...so I warm up the engine 1st
 
No need to warm up too long la, wasting time, wasting fuel, and may instead speed up more carbon build up. Car engine and oil technology are very good already.
For me, in the morning just start, wait about 1 minute just to have the idle drops a bit to 1k rpm (but not wait until it fully stabilize @ 700-800rpm), then drive off normally and not rev to high (stay <3k rpm).
 
No need to warm up too long la, wasting time, wasting fuel, and may instead speed up more carbon build up. Car engine and oil technology are very good already.
For me, in the morning just start, wait about 1 minute just to have the idle drops a bit to 1k rpm (but not wait until it fully stabilize @ 700-800rpm), then drive off normally and not rev to high (stay quote]

I agree. This is what I do too, but of course even after it drops I don't rev hard until after the cold engine light disappears.

It's like vr2turbo said - at cold start the lubricants are at the bottom and will need the pump the circulate throughout the engine. But these days modern lubes are more than prepared for this sort of wear and tear and can handle it. If you're using good oil and with 10Wxx minimal viscosity, you're safe la.

Some race cars like F1 and all use single viscosity oils, those need to be warmed up and intravenously fed into the engine. Otherwise some race cars just let the engine run with that single viscosity oil until it reaches optimum temperature before driving.

Warm up is necessary but no need to be idle la, just let the engine startup idling stabilize and drive but take it easy until it warms up. This is especially important for those people driving without thermostats.
 
I agree. This is what I do too, but of course even after it drops I don't rev hard until after the cold engine light disappears.

It's like vr2turbo said - at cold start the lubricants are at the bottom and will need the pump the circulate throughout the engine. But these days modern lubes are more than prepared for this sort of wear and tear and can handle it. If you're using good oil and with 10Wxx minimal viscosity, you're safe la.

Some race cars like F1 and all use single viscosity oils, those need to be warmed up and intravenously fed into the engine. Otherwise some race cars just let the engine run with that single viscosity oil until it reaches optimum temperature before driving.

Warm up is necessary but no need to be idle la, just let the engine startup idling stabilize and drive but take it easy until it warms up. This is especially important for those people driving without thermostats.

My ancient cars no cold engine light woh! Have to rely on temperature gauge.....hahhahaha:biggrin:

No thermostat can hardly warm up. I did that long ago in my 3rd car, after that fit back.....:rolleyes:
 
I usually just start the car, wait for the needle to reach the 1st pointer. Then drive off slowly. And never speed above 60 until the car reaches the optimum temperature.

But nowadays, Since LRT is so nearby, is less than 5 mins drive. When I arrived at the station, I will still let the engine run for maybe 1 to 2 mins before switching it off. I heard is bad if the car never gets enough time for the engine oil to perform at its peak?

I think letting the car warm up and not just accelerate hard right after starting the car in the morning is kinda same as how we humans wake up every morning. I can't just jump up from the bed and straight run out of the house and start running as fast as I can. I think i cant do that hahahaha! Need some time to warm up, like resting awhile on the bed before waking up hehehe!
 
I have read that a car engine works efficiently at an optimum temperature.....Not too hot, not too cold.

Optimum temperature ensure best, complete combustion, and all the metal parts in the engine are correctly expanded and seal the gaps where required.
Incorrect temperature operation might cause sludge and deposits build-up....


Just to add on the engine operating temperature matter...
Many would have said the engine would be heat-stressed unnecessary when extreme temperature fluctuates. (like stuck in bad traffic jam, engine running very hot, engine rev (moving traffic), engine idle (traffic stop), engine running hot again, add engine load....and repeat process. This causes the engine more wear and tear... KL taxis are examples
 
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I usually just start the car, wait for the needle to reach the 1st pointer. Then drive off slowly. And never speed above 60 until the car reaches the optimum temperature.

But nowadays, Since LRT is so nearby, is less than 5 mins drive. When I arrived at the station, I will still let the engine run for maybe 1 to 2 mins before switching it off. I heard is bad if the car never gets enough time for the engine oil to perform at its peak?

Read something like if don't reach operating temperature, water vapor is formed.
Found one post this:
Running cold can allow condensation to form inside the engine which could dilute the oil and create deposites of corrosion.
I don't think dilute is the word but contaminate, if water is formed

---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:32 AM ----------

I have read that a car engine works efficiently at an optimum temperature.....Not too hot, not too cold.

Optimum temperature ensure best, complete combustion, and all the metal parts in the engine are correctly expanded and seal the gaps where required.
Incorrect temperature operation might cause sludge and deposits build-up....

Yup, because the engine was designed to run at that temperature. That is why it is wrong to remove the thermostat which is done by some and heard even by some mechanic....:smokin:
 
Read something like if don't reach operating temperature, water vapor is formed.
Found one post this:
Running cold can allow condensation to form inside the engine which could dilute the oil and create deposites of corrosion.
I don't think dilute is the word but contaminate, if water is formed

---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:32 AM ----------



Yup, because the engine was designed to run at that temperature. That is why it is wrong to remove the thermostat which is done by some and heard even by some mechanic....:smokin:

My mira will never be hot. Take years to get hot if idling. Have to really start driving only hot hahaha
 
My mira will never be hot. Take years to get hot if idling. Have to really start driving only hot hahaha

Well, then it needs shorter OCI. If you want 3 months OCI since you drive very little or you can prolong to 6 months. All my cars used to be 6 months since cannot reach 5k in that period. Now my SUV maintain 6 months, and VR and Hyundai even gone to 1 year......hahhahhahah:biggrin:
 
Well, then it needs shorter OCI. If you want 3 months OCI since you drive very little or you can prolong to 6 months. All my cars used to be 6 months since cannot reach 5k in that period. Now my SUV maintain 6 months, and VR and Hyundai even gone to 1 year......hahhahhahah:biggrin:

wahhh..very low mileage vr.... :adore:

my satria daily driver (wife drive) so every 2.5month OCI (5k interval)


and my boxer every 4-5month (4k interval)

both using mineral oil and same oem mitsubishi filter :biggrin:



both running without thermostat...


satria cold start with manual choke (ficd on manual switch)...so optimum temp reached when idling rpm increased without the need of ficd override...


boxer...i start to drive it slowly/relaxed style once reaching 60degree water temp :driver:
 
Well, then it needs shorter OCI. If you want 3 months OCI since you drive very little or you can prolong to 6 months. All my cars used to be 6 months since cannot reach 5k in that period. Now my SUV maintain 6 months, and VR and Hyundai even gone to 1 year......hahhahhahah:biggrin:

Ya usually hard to reach if i really just drive 5 mins daily. :rofl: Unless got drive a bit to Kepong or somewhere further then maybe possible. I think did try 6 months before on mira.

wahhh..very low mileage vr.... :adore:

my satria daily driver (wife drive) so every 2.5month OCI (5k interval)


and my boxer every 4-5month (4k interval)

both using mineral oil and same oem mitsubishi filter :biggrin:



both running without thermostat...


satria cold start with manual choke (ficd on manual switch)...so optimum temp reached when idling rpm increased without the need of ficd override...


boxer...i start to drive it slowly/relaxed style once reaching 60degree water temp :driver:

Boxer can use mineral oil? Didnt know that thought shud at least semi or fully
 
Ya usually hard to reach if i really just drive 5 mins daily. :rofl: Unless got drive a bit to Kepong or somewhere further then maybe possible. I think did try 6 months before on mira.



Boxer can use mineral oil? Didnt know that thought shud at least semi or fully

any engine can use mineral oil...but thats depends heavily on driving style,climate,correct oil specification and shorter OCI for higher stressed engine......hence im changing it at 4k km interval instead of 5k km for n.a engine


and mostly i'm driving well below 3k rpm......carrying family...so didnt bother to waste money on more expensive oil...plus i'm not really extending OCI even with capable oil due to very basic oil filteration system on most car.....
 
Ya usually hard to reach if i really just drive 5 mins daily. :rofl: Unless got drive a bit to Kepong or somewhere further then maybe possible. I think did try 6 months before on mira.

Boxer can use mineral oil? Didnt know that thought shud at least semi or fully

I think you should change Mira to Bicycle then......:rofl::rofl:

As explained by bro. pomen, Mineral oil can use, just shorten the OCI. My SUV do around 4k km in 6 months and is on FS. VR also on FS even shorter mileage but longer period now. Those days if daily drive change every 4 months or so....:driver:
 
So most of them already explained the logic behind the warm up start....for me, I just start & drive immediately but slowly usually don't wait for engine to stabilize but maintaining below 3K RPM....after the engine temp hits 80C, I'll whack it :rofl:
 

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