Kancil tuning

what is 'unker'?
project not yet started, not enough $$$ for turbo, and only done balancing and alignment check will be next, then it's anti-roll bar 1st... then l2 absorber and springs, gonna visit chopshops anytime to ask bout the price...
 
i have another question, i just painted my bonnet with 2k white paint, after polishing for the 3rd time because of poor service, alot alot of tiny scratches appeared on it, it's 'tiny' because those scratches only appear under the light. it's still very shinny, but i am unsatisfied by the scratches.

problem is:
- if i bring it back to polish again, would more scratches of same kind appear more? (due to thinning layers of the new paint)
- ask them to apply more wax before polish?

need some pro on this man, coz i think many ppl may not know what crap i am trying to say, how many times can a new paint be polished before the whole new layer of new paint got 'exhausted'?
 
bro why u straight away polish ur car..if it is newly paint u need to atleast let the paint dry for 2 weeks...if not sure got scratches like u mention...

an about the B.O.T . i dont quite recommend u la...yes it does add summore power.but cost wise would be more higher..if u do bolt on..u need to buy all L2 parts such as head,turbo manifold,throttle body,piston and many more la...u can't use ur existing piston cos of NA pistons are high comp...u can't utilise the turbo efficiently...if u uxe the stock piston.the max boost is about 0.7 bar only..plus u'll need a standalone engine management which will cost u a bombbbbbb!!!

so it's up to u....
 
the video siad that his car can go from 0 to 100km/h in 10 sec.while a standard L2 can clock in at 9 sec...if u have the resources and plenty of cash to spare..then B.O.T is a very good move...there's a lot of work to be done and i'm sure it will cost more...and performance wise.. a BOT kancil will loose it's power during high rev coz of its long stroke setting .... and yes u can use piggyback...but it is still not cheap!!!
 
isnt the stroke for the EF-CL same as the EF-JL?which is 60.5mm?:_:
im quite sure its the same.

btw,a longer stroke would give u better power at high rev.and a shorter stroke (and bigger bore) would give u more torque.(better power in low revs.)
 
munpeng,

i hope this 2 discussion links in regards to Kancil N/A mod here helps. do a read, from where you dont understand only u know what to ask instead of asking blindly. also, basically u should know how a basic principle of an engine work and once u know that, u should know how to make full use of the potential of the engine, to squeeze every horse out of it. i've been thru there so i know. i used to mod a 850cc NA to catch up to a stock L2 turbo, but due to the craze of horsepower, i've abandoned the 850cc engine and converted to 660 turbocharged

http://www.keiconcept.net/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&Itemid=28&func=view&id=11220&catid=10
http://www.keiconcept.net/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&Itemid=28&func=view&id=3641&catid=10
 
Fluffy said:
isnt the stroke for the EF-CL same as the EF-JL?which is 60.5mm?:_:
im quite sure its the same.

btw,a longer stroke would give u better power at high rev.and a shorter stroke (and bigger bore) would give u more torque.(better power in low revs.)


bro i'm talking about 660's block in comparison with 850's block a..which is 660's block is a short stroke while the 850's block is long stroke...the short stroke's peak torque comes at higher rpm compare to long stroke due to slower piston movement...can someone clarify this for me????....
 
Hey guys, bolt on turbo is not a good idea on a stock 850 kancil, actually i got one friend from the chop shop at kepong and he is trying to fix a L2 turbo kit to his 850 finally it became rojak car. I remember once when we go genting his car almost out of engine oil. This is because his car is out off calculation....you know what i meanlah. This is a old story already, i think he already change his engine, i din`t see him since i left tarc college at setapak. Next time if i go kl i should ask him. Later guys.
 
Andrew_Mira_J said:
This is because his car is out off calculation....you know what i meanlah.
Nope seriously i dont get what you mean. I've so many people done it, even there is one of my team member done it, generating a generous 100hp and a 12.xxkg-M while in the process of breaking in the engine (have not dyno tune it precisely yet).

I believe the method he practise it is wrong or there could be some leaking somewhere. Why not u check out with him the reason of the dying engine before we conclude anything here?

Cheers
 
Maybe that guy din`t tune his car properly but his car very powerful can vs L5 initially. Sorry man. Just want to share some experince. Actually last time i want to do this kind of modification but don`t dare to do it because needs a lots of support and money.
 
Hey, i found you guys are specialist in kancil, i`m wondering is it gas absorbers are better than hydraulics. I found that my car suspension is too hard any suggestion? Maybe change to adjustable shocks but very expensive, hot bits 1 cost me about RM 1400 and taiwan don`t know what brand cost me about RM 900.
 
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wat about titan?:_:

wat i know frm toyota blocks(sorry i know.this is a diff engine:_:)..the GE blocks have long strokes and smaller bores..which u know are high revving engines..that give their power at high revs..

but the FE blocks haf shorter strokes with bigger bores..hence more power at lower revs..

i may be wrong in this topic.:_:
 
it's the combination i think...put bore aside. usually shorter stroke engine have higher rev and vice versa for longer one.

now bore, bigger bore produce more torque and have more power at lower rev.

so engineer don't pair big bore with long stroke for high rev, it will produce too much stretch for the engine to last.
 
Andrew_Mira_J said:
Hey, i found you guys are specialist in kancil, i`m wondering is it gas absorbers are better than hydraulics. I found that my car suspension is too hard any suggestion? Maybe change to adjustable shocks but very expensive, hot bits 1 cost me about RM 1400 and taiwan don`t know what brand cost me about RM 900.
suspension too hard? define the hard? hard absorbing or the spring tension too hard? normally u gotta play around with the setup if u're getting different brand of shock and spring.

I'm using Titan and it's made to cater for my application. i'm not really expert on this suspension thingy but u can do some reading here (for FF model only)

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/suspension_tuning.html
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0506scc_suspension/
 
while doing alignment check up today, saw a set of 13" inch rims, very very nice, didnt catch the brand... feel like going for them. btw, car feels abit better after checking alignment, rear wheels were abit out of position....
 

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