Fluctuating Car Temperature (Towards the H side)

Nightstalker1993

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Not too sure about your car specifically, but generally Mitsubishi have a 2-wire temp sensor for the ecu, and the sensor for the meter is actualy a seperate 1-wire sensor, and the gauge is calibrated in such a way that it will show 'normal' over a wide range of temperatures, and will only shoot to H suddenly when it passes a certain temperature, and because the sensor is only 1 wire, the accuracy of the gauge also depends on the chassis and engine grounding. So basically, the stock temp gauge is generally a decent enough indication for overheat, but if you want to be really sure, it is best to install a seperate temperature gauge. Also usually the stock temp sensor detects the water temp at post radiator entering the engine, and not the temp of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator. If you install your own gauge, it will be on the top hose which means you will be reading the higher temperatures of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator.

But then again, looks like you had found your culprit, so just change the radiator and see how la, but if you still experience the same issue again, check your obd water temp see if it tallies up with the gauge reading.
 

Mitevo7

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Not too sure about your car specifically, but generally Mitsubishi have a 2-wire temp sensor for the ecu, and the sensor for the meter is actualy a seperate 1-wire sensor, and the gauge is calibrated in such a way that it will show 'normal' over a wide range of temperatures, and will only shoot to H suddenly when it passes a certain temperature, and because the sensor is only 1 wire, the accuracy of the gauge also depends on the chassis and engine grounding. So basically, the stock temp gauge is generally a decent enough indication for overheat, but if you want to be really sure, it is best to install a seperate temperature gauge. Also usually the stock temp sensor detects the water temp at post radiator entering the engine, and not the temp of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator. If you install your own gauge, it will be on the top hose which means you will be reading the higher temperatures of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator.

But then again, looks like you had found your culprit, so just change the radiator and see how la, but if you still experience the same issue again, check your obd water temp see if it tallies up with the gauge reading.
Changing to a new radiator solved the issue and A/C runs colder and cools faster. Engine also performs much optimum and easier to Rev. OBD engine temp sensor shows 87 degree as per the thermostat setting is. Looks like the temp issue is gone for now. Looking into more mods for this car now ? AMR500 supercharger :)

Thanks for all the supports here !

-Ken-
 

Mitevo7

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that was an interestingly "easy" fix. What radiator did you opt for?
It wasn't easy at all. I wasted RM150 bucks on coolant when changing thermostat, 50 bucks on water pump and other inspection services to finally track down to radiator. The symptoms were not showing when driving in town after thermostat change, until the day i collected the car and went on highways for 30 minutes driving home, the heat shoots up and it was determined that the radiator has to be open up.

I am using Synergy Radiator, Evo X size, need to modify the mount point and relocate the AC piping a little.

Thanks,
Ken
 

vr2turbo

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Usually Synergy can custom build your radiator, probably since yours neither this nor that, so modify existing one......
 

Mitevo7

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Usually Synergy can custom build your radiator, probably since yours neither this nor that, so modify existing one......
Evo X size is good enough for N/A applications, even for forced induction. I am exploring small boost but reasonable prices for the Lancer. This radiator mod just came in time. If i ever get into that path, will update here again.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Izso

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Nice.. it's great we actually have a confirmed resolved issue shared by the TS. haha! Most just disappear after they post their questions
 

Mitevo7

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Nice.. it's great we actually have a confirmed resolved issue shared by the TS. haha! Most just disappear after they post their questions
Call it a habit of seeing things through. I also found it frustrated at times when i was reading through forums and information left hanging after a while due to TS MIA.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Can transplant 1j must be rich ...:smirk:
Can do it cheaply if you know your ways around, i studied the process of it for 3 whole years before deciding to do it. So you won't waste too much unnecessary budget to get things right.

Thanks,
Ken
 

gunnerzz

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Can do it cheaply if you know your ways around, i studied the process of it for 3 whole years before deciding to do it. So you won't waste too much unnecessary budget to get things right.

Thanks,
Ken
That and for sure the money printing machine u got in your store...hahah.

Make me remember during my banking time..whenever we talk about spending money which we dont have on cars, the sentence 'kejap, aku amek duit lebih kat bawah (the strongroom downstairs), rim nk tuka?, body nak cat?, aku bleh standby lebih' will comes out which will end the conversation abruptly.
 
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Mitevo7

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That and for sure the money printing machine u got in your store...hahah.

Make me remember during my banking time..whenever we talk about spending money which we dont have on cars, the sentence 'kejap, aku amek duit lebih kat bawah (the strongroom downstairs), rim nk tuka?, body nak cat?, aku bleh standby lebih' will comes out which will end the conversation abruptly.
:deal: Mechanic's face be like when the project is done.

Fortunately my car's condition is pretty well kept, and i don't have to spend so much in painting, change rims, this and that, the only unexpected one is the oil sump modification which costs me 2k. Have to hope and pray i got bonus that time, luckily i got it hahaha.

Thanks,
Ken