[DIY] Flush ATF and change filter

Izso

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To do this you'll need the following :


1. Manufacturers spec ATF x 4L (minimally. May need up to 6L)
2. ATF filter, gasket (optional)
3. Gasket removal tool and hammer
4. Automotive hose (about 2m)
5. Something to catch the oil with, in this case I used Tesco's RM14.80 plastic box (medium sized)
6. Rachet and size 10 T-Wrench (optional but damn useful)
7. A funnel to pour oil into the ATF dipstick.




Firstly, drain as much oil as you can. Even after you drain, there'll still be a lot lying in the pan so really let it drain as much as possible otherwise it'll get messy later. Replace the drain bolt once done.






Remove all the size 10 (usually) bolts holding the pan up. In my case there are 11 bolts and clean them as much as possible to remove the old gasket remenants.




Using the gasket removal tool and a hammer, slice into the old gasket and carefully remove the pan. Get ready to catch the pan once you've hammered enough of the gasket away.




Clean the pan of the old gasket and oil.




Here is the old filter. Clean up whatever oil you can and remove the old gasket as well. Don't scrape too hard in case you scratch the surface. Then remove the filter itself. In the case of my Myvi, it's held up by 3 clips. You can access 2 and pry them out then gently rock the 3rd hidden clip out and it's out. Careful because there's oil here too so catch all the oil in the collector (Tesco box) otherwise it'll be really messy. And smelly. And Oily. Etc.




Old filter vs new filter. Look at the filter element itself, very big difference! This is why you should change your ATF filter regularly.




Using gasket sealant, lay it on the clean pan (thick), then put the gasket on top and lay on another thick layer of sealant.




Place the pan back and screw all the bolts back. Gently at first - do not tighten until you have all the bolts in place. Since these are small and thin size 10 bolts, do not overtighten. Remember the strength you needed to remove them? Use the same to tighten it back. It might squeeze out some of the sealant - that's perfectly normal. You can scrape it off later when it cures.




Identify the two outlets coming from your gearbox. One of these is an inlet and the other is an outlet. In the case of my Myvi, the outlet is the one on the right. Attach the 2m hose to the outlet hose and direct the hose into the catching container (Tesco box).

Fill your gearbox with approximately 2L of oil (different cars may vary).




Start your car and you'll start to see oil flowing out from the hose into your container. Keep topping up the oil through the dipstick area (using your funnel) and monitor the oil flowing out. Once it's clear and clean, shut off your engine.

Replace the original hose (or in my case the ATF cooler hose), check your oil level again and you're done.


Difficulty level : I'd say 5/10
Time taken : 3 hours (I really took my time cuz I had to take pictures and all)
Pissing off your neighbor because of the flowery smell ATF emits..... Priceless!

:biggrin:
 

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ACQ2305

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ACQ2305

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Oh,did not know that it has a filter inside...
 

Izso

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good write up Izso.....cant wait for more of your DIY stuffs......
Unfortunately due to my schedule, I'm going to busy for a while to come. Perhaps at the end of the month I'll do a DIY on how to install ICE. A 4-part DIY or something. :biggrin:

Glad you enjoy my nonsense!
 

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Oh,did not know that it has a filter inside...
got bro, all autobox do have ATF filters inside.

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

Unfortunately due to my schedule, I'm going to busy for a while to come. Perhaps at the end of the month I'll do a DIY on how to install ICE. A 4-part DIY or something. :biggrin:

Glad you enjoy my nonsense!
your next topic, on how to flush your radiator :)
 

skazareth

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finish that sudoku bro....... then teach us engine-swap.....
 

BE5RSK

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Hahaha, ok bro.. in that case, maybe we should try something more difficult.
Errr...I would say, "How to rebuild/overhaul your engine" :listen:

Guarantee after that, all workshop gulung tikar... No more scam/con by the workshop, and drop of sales for new car (since semua kereta in tip-top condition)...

Just kidding la berrooo... By the way. Nice write-up. :cheers:
 
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V-8

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Very informative write up mr iszo!Well appreciated.

Wouldnt mind a DIY on radiator flushing bro.Pretty easy but jus wanna be completely sure b4 trying it and covering all bases!Would u mind?

Cheers bro,keep 'em comin!
 

Izso

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finish that sudoku bro....... then teach us engine-swap.....
LOL! Your replies never fail to be amusing. Incidentally I have done a engine complete removal, rebuild and reinstall. Just that it was done with a friends cherry picker, I don't have one at home. A bit hard to DIY without it.

Hahaha, ok bro.. in that case, maybe we should try something more difficult.
Errr...I would say, "How to rebuild/overhaul your engine" :listen:

Guarantee after that, all workshop gulung tikar... No more scam/con by the workshop, and drop of sales for new car (since semua kereta in tip-top condition)...

Just kidding la berrooo... By the way. Nice write-up. :cheers:
Hmm... I probably could do a top overhaul DIY but it would be very car specific. Would that be useful at all? I'm just showing stuff that's as generic as possible so it can apply to many different car makes. Speaking of which my own car might be in need of a top overhaul anyway. Too many leaks.

Very informative write up mr iszo!Well appreciated.

Wouldnt mind a DIY on radiator flushing bro.Pretty easy but jus wanna be completely sure b4 trying it and covering all bases!Would u mind?

Cheers bro,keep 'em comin!
Ok ok.. my coolant isn't due for change yet but I'll get something done up all the same. Glad you appreciate my articles.
 

skazareth

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LOL! Your replies never fail to be amusing. Incidentally I have done a engine complete removal, rebuild and reinstall. Just that it was done with a friends cherry picker, I don't have one at home. A bit hard to DIY without it.
yea bcs the 1st sudoku u done brilliantly (yes, i checked, all correct...).

regarding engine swap, actually i have a story lah.. that's why it popped in my head to ask u that... Please let me share this story here, can i?

it was 20 yrs ago..my dad was a head foreman for police force, able to fix all those patrol cars, KEMBALIK, Unimogs, HINO trucks, white horses, etc2.. We (4 of us, all boys) know he was tried to teach us his skills..but we were so small.

That time, 1991, he bought 2nd hand 87' CBU Prelude 1.8XX Dual Carb. I remember he bragged about the car and its CBU condition compare to CKD... i was not interested...i was 11. All my friends were lastik burung and played hide-and-seek on daily basis.

One day, its gearbox buat pasal...its radiator buat pasal... overheated and so on. He was so pissed. Then he bought new engine that I cant remember either from Integra or Accord but it was same 1.8, still carburetor and DOHC. He installed himself with the help from us - The 4 Kids Buruh Paksa. My little bro didn't even know what rachet was. He got scold because he gave dad a hammer instead of rachet. He was 8.

Dad taught us how to port n polish, set the clearance for rocker using that clearance gauge, bleeding brake fluid, changing brake discs, oil, filters, set the engine timing using that timing-light, all those simple2 thing including flushing radiator coolant (hehe) -bear in mind i was 11. He tried to teach us as much as he can but he understand we wont be able to digest.

Now, i feel so bad bcs i missed the best opportunity to learn this priceless from the old guy... I barely remember those skill now. I took mechanical eng during uni-days but still i could not do same as him. Whenever I looked at my 11 year old nephews nowadays with iPad and Playstation on their hands, and have no idea what screwdriver is, makes me want to tell this story to them.

So...back to the topic... u have to teach us engine swap, bro...take K20A swap as ur project would be best (haha!)...

cheers.
 
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Izso

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If I had a honda to molest, I'd definitely give it a shot right after I get a cherry picker. K20A can't fit in a EG right? Saw this EG for sale for bout 20k, bone stock standard. Wifey wouldn't let me get it... LOL

Eh, your dad is bound to be damn knowledgeable man. Anyway - for you, best way to learn is to get your hands dirty. I'm sure you know more than you're telling me. Most of the stuff I do is normal stuff. Jom la, we use your car as demo car and plonk in k20A. Hehe..
 

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i'd rather gib 50 buck to a bawah pokok fler to spend da 3 hours, i dont have 3 hours to spare LOL
 

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i'd rather gib 50 buck to a bawah pokok fler to spend da 3 hours, i dont have 3 hours to spare LOL
Unker - don't play people la. I can do it much faster except I took a lot of time taking pics la and this and that lor.
 

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any guide on replacing brake pads?Would like to try that on my own.

Any chance i can convince u mr iszo 2 do 1 with the radiator flush?hehe
 

Izso

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any guide on replacing brake pads?Would like to try that on my own.

Any chance i can convince u mr iszo 2 do 1 with the radiator flush?hehe
Sure. It's in my list of things to do anyway
 

mike77kl

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Hi, my old saga dun have a nut below the ATF sump and only beside got the nut. Can i change to a diffrent sump? How much?
 

mike77kl

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...yes correct is Automatic year 1991. I have learn that only later model got 2 nuts, one below and one beside. Mine only got beside so cant drain 100%. May i ask what will happen if i dun change the ATF filter above the sump? Say i am lazy to open the sump.
 

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...yes correct is Automatic year 1991. I have learn that only later model got 2 nuts, one below and one beside. Mine only got beside so cant drain 100%. May i ask what will happen if i dun change the ATF filter above the sump? Say i am lazy to open the sump.
Well, if your oil is really dirty, the filter will get clogged and the dirt will circulate in your gearbox. Ultimately that'll destroy the cogs and moving parts inside the gearbox or eat away bit by bit. It'll be a slow and painful death. But having said that most people I know never bother changing the filter and have used their cars for years. The only difference is the way the gearbox feels compared to mine, mine is silky smooth gear changes and theirs jerks like it wants to break their necks.
 

mike77kl

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mine is not smooth coz i can feel it when it change from 1 to 2. It is an automatic with 3 speed only. i hope after i change the ATF and filter, gear change will be smooth till i wont feel it changing.
 

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mine is not smooth coz i can feel it when it change from 1 to 2. It is an automatic with 3 speed only. i hope after i change the ATF and filter, gear change will be smooth till i wont feel it changing.
It depends on the oil you're using and how much oil is pumped in. Cuz if you overfill it'll jerk like that. If you underfill it'll struggle to change gears. It has to be just right.
 

mike77kl

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ok, thank u for telling me this. Now i know. So between the min and max is the right amount? Mind to share when and how to check the atf dip stick? If after i get it right, then must be the oil. Can u recommend me a good and suitable ATF for my old saga? It is a 91 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Auto 12V Carb. Thank u :)
 

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ok, thank u for telling me this. Now i know. So between the min and max is the right amount? Mind to share when and how to check the atf dip stick? If after i get it right, then must be the oil. Can u recommend me a good and suitable ATF for my old saga? It is a 91 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Auto 12V Carb. Thank u :)
Usually after changing the filter and filling up the oil level (initial check) I just make sure the dipstick is between the min and max line. I start up the car and go for a quick 5 minute run around my taman. Then I check the dipstick again, most of the time it'll be low. So I top it up again until it touches the max line. Go for one more 5 minute run and check again. Usually it's ok by then.

I'm not sure what type of oil your Saga uses. If it's an old Proton, it probably should be using SPIII oil. Check your manual to confirm this! If yes, the the Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII is pretty damn good.
 

jimmyae101

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good way to DIY at house if u r look for budget or short of $ or wanna learn something new.it is good to show to urgf,wife,family that u do it too... :proud:
 

mike77kl

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may i ask is it check during warmed engine running in N or turn off engine then check? My manual book is gone when i got this car from the last owner, now i only got the Haynes Proton repair manual and it says fill between min and max no matter u change engine oil, ATF, DOT3/4, Steering Fluid, all same...Haynes recommends to fill between min and max. May i ask, is the power steering fluid can use any sort of ATF? I mean for whatever ATF i use for the tranny, the leftover i could just taruk for the steering too? I heard that we cant simply use any ATF for the tranny as we like, is it true? I got a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, can i use it for this old Saga tranny?
 

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may i ask is it check during warmed engine running in N or turn off engine then check? My manual book is gone when i got this car from the last owner, now i only got the Haynes Proton repair manual and it says fill between min and max no matter u change engine oil, ATF, DOT3/4, Steering Fluid, all same...Haynes recommends to fill between min and max. May i ask, is the power steering fluid can use any sort of ATF? I mean for whatever ATF i use for the tranny, the leftover i could just taruk for the steering too? I heard that we cant simply use any ATF for the tranny as we like, is it true? I got a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, can i use it for this old Saga tranny?
Ok here's what I got from my quick search in Google. Proton Saga auto 3-speed 1st gen uses SPIII oil so my earlier Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII will work great with your car. I check with the engine warm and off in N.

The reason why most people recommend between min and max is so you don't overfill. It's pretty damn hard to remove if you do. No harm with this method but personally I like mine close to max rather than min.

Power steering fluid in most cases is Dexron III oil. I don't recommend using anything else.
 

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yes,sterring oil normally can use ATF t3(dexron 111 oil) about toyota ATF t4 is not suitable for saga or proton model...my friend have face it,pour ATF t4 to his old iswara,his car cant move.then drain out all T4 oil,and flushing GB with T3 oil ,top up t3 oil start engine ,lucky his car normally back and move again...hehehe..he also shock when his car cant move...rpm rev to 5000 in D gear,cant never move a cm...hehehe...wrong oil on wrong model car..
 

mike77kl

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@izso
I hope the diaqueen III is not expensive coz last time i bought the Toyota ATF Type T-IV 4L for RM60 only for my Hyundai Atos tranny and steering, so far no problem.

One thing strange, when i check the ATF dip stick when engine is off and cold in the morning, the level is off the chart high, then i start the car to warm it up in N and check during idle, it shows the level is exactly between the min and max. Now i dun know either to salut the previous owner or what since izso said check when engine is off. Anyways, thanks u for all the replies so far. Really appreciate it.

@jimmy
Thanks for the info, man. I nearly want to pour in the Type IV to the old Saga when my hand felt itchy. Now i dun know what to do with the Toyota ATF since i am going to sell off the Atos soon. Maybe i can pour some of it into the engine? To clean some carbon maybe? Or can i use it for the steering? No? I tot steering can use any brands and standards as long as its ATF.

@izso
bro, try check yr ATF level when the engine is running, u might get a shock to see the stick is completely dry.
 
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Izso

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Mike, Diaqueen is about RM114 at the spare parts shop near my place and it's 4L.

Ok - here's the thing. The AT Gearbox has a pump and it circulates the oil around the GB. Oil is not like water and it doesn't settle down instantly the moment the pump is stopped. The reason why I suggested to check it with a hot engine is to make sure the oil is everywhere it's supposed to be - in the torque convertor, inbetween the cogs and so on. The reason why I ask to do it with the engine off (but hot) is so the oil doesn't get pumped out of the dipstick hole.

That's the reason why you don't check the ATF level when cold - just so you're measuring the amount of oil in the ATF case when it is already circulated within the GB.

Toyota Type-IV gear oil is not the compatible with Dexron III. You want to use it in your gearbox or your power steering then that's your choice. If something was made to be used with something, I wouldn't want to use someone else to replace what it was originally supposed to use unless it's compatible.

So in the end it's your choice. I'm not stopping you if you want to pour Toyota T-IV oil into your engine. I've repeated myself enough for now.