[DIY] Flush ATF and change filter

[mike77kl]

mine is not smooth coz i can feel it when it change from 1 to 2. It is an automatic with 3 speed only. i hope after i change the ATF and filter, gear change will be smooth till i wont feel it changing.

 

[Izso]

mine is not smooth coz i can feel it when it change from 1 to 2. It is an automatic with 3 speed only. i hope after i change the ATF and filter, gear change will be smooth till i wont feel it changing.

It depends on the oil you're using and how much oil is pumped in. Cuz if you overfill it'll jerk like that. If you underfill it'll struggle to change gears. It has to be just right.

 

[mike77kl]

ok, thank u for telling me this. Now i know. So between the min and max is the right amount? Mind to share when and how to check the atf dip stick? If after i get it right, then must be the oil. Can u recommend me a good and suitable ATF for my old saga? It is a 91 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Auto 12V Carb. Thank u :)

 

[Izso]

ok, thank u for telling me this. Now i know. So between the min and max is the right amount? Mind to share when and how to check the atf dip stick? If after i get it right, then must be the oil. Can u recommend me a good and suitable ATF for my old saga? It is a 91 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Auto 12V Carb. Thank u :)

Usually after changing the filter and filling up the oil level (initial check) I just make sure the dipstick is between the min and max line. I start up the car and go for a quick 5 minute run around my taman. Then I check the dipstick again, most of the time it'll be low. So I top it up again until it touches the max line. Go for one more 5 minute run and check again. Usually it's ok by then.

I'm not sure what type of oil your Saga uses. If it's an old Proton, it probably should be using SPIII oil. Check your manual to confirm this! If yes, the the Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII is pretty damn good.

 

[jimmyae101]

good way to DIY at house if u r look for budget or short of $ or wanna learn something new.it is good to show to urgf,wife,family that u do it too... :proud:

 

[mike77kl]

may i ask is it check during warmed engine running in N or turn off engine then check? My manual book is gone when i got this car from the last owner, now i only got the Haynes Proton repair manual and it says fill between min and max no matter u change engine oil, ATF, DOT3/4, Steering Fluid, all same...Haynes recommends to fill between min and max. May i ask, is the power steering fluid can use any sort of ATF? I mean for whatever ATF i use for the tranny, the leftover i could just taruk for the steering too? I heard that we cant simply use any ATF for the tranny as we like, is it true? I got a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, can i use it for this old Saga tranny?

 

[Izso]

may i ask is it check during warmed engine running in N or turn off engine then check? My manual book is gone when i got this car from the last owner, now i only got the Haynes Proton repair manual and it says fill between min and max no matter u change engine oil, ATF, DOT3/4, Steering Fluid, all same...Haynes recommends to fill between min and max. May i ask, is the power steering fluid can use any sort of ATF? I mean for whatever ATF i use for the tranny, the leftover i could just taruk for the steering too? I heard that we cant simply use any ATF for the tranny as we like, is it true? I got a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, can i use it for this old Saga tranny?

Ok here's what I got from my quick search in Google. Proton Saga auto 3-speed 1st gen uses SPIII oil so my earlier Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII will work great with your car. I check with the engine warm and off in N.

The reason why most people recommend between min and max is so you don't overfill. It's pretty damn hard to remove if you do. No harm with this method but personally I like mine close to max rather than min.

Power steering fluid in most cases is Dexron III oil. I don't recommend using anything else.

 

[jimmyae101]

yes,sterring oil normally can use ATF t3(dexron 111 oil) about toyota ATF t4 is not suitable for saga or proton model...my friend have face it,pour ATF t4 to his old iswara,his car cant move.then drain out all T4 oil,and flushing GB with T3 oil ,top up t3 oil start engine ,lucky his car normally back and move again...hehehe..he also shock when his car cant move...rpm rev to 5000 in D gear,cant never move a cm...hehehe...wrong oil on wrong model car..

 

[mike77kl]

@izso
I hope the diaqueen III is not expensive coz last time i bought the Toyota ATF Type T-IV 4L for RM60 only for my Hyundai Atos tranny and steering, so far no problem.

One thing strange, when i check the ATF dip stick when engine is off and cold in the morning, the level is off the chart high, then i start the car to warm it up in N and check during idle, it shows the level is exactly between the min and max. Now i dun know either to salut the previous owner or what since izso said check when engine is off. Anyways, thanks u for all the replies so far. Really appreciate it.

@jimmy
Thanks for the info, man. I nearly want to pour in the Type IV to the old Saga when my hand felt itchy. Now i dun know what to do with the Toyota ATF since i am going to sell off the Atos soon. Maybe i can pour some of it into the engine? To clean some carbon maybe? Or can i use it for the steering? No? I tot steering can use any brands and standards as long as its ATF.

@izso
bro, try check yr ATF level when the engine is running, u might get a shock to see the stick is completely dry.

 

[Izso]

Mike, Diaqueen is about RM114 at the spare parts shop near my place and it's 4L.

Ok - here's the thing. The AT Gearbox has a pump and it circulates the oil around the GB. Oil is not like water and it doesn't settle down instantly the moment the pump is stopped. The reason why I suggested to check it with a hot engine is to make sure the oil is everywhere it's supposed to be - in the torque convertor, inbetween the cogs and so on. The reason why I ask to do it with the engine off (but hot) is so the oil doesn't get pumped out of the dipstick hole.

That's the reason why you don't check the ATF level when cold - just so you're measuring the amount of oil in the ATF case when it is already circulated within the GB.

Toyota Type-IV gear oil is not the compatible with Dexron III. You want to use it in your gearbox or your power steering then that's your choice. If something was made to be used with something, I wouldn't want to use someone else to replace what it was originally supposed to use unless it's compatible.

So in the end it's your choice. I'm not stopping you if you want to pour Toyota T-IV oil into your engine. I've repeated myself enough for now.

 

[mike77kl]

@Izso
I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.

 

[Izso]

@Izso
I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.

Hmm.. rev a little when shifting? I've no idea. Perhaps that's a Saga unique feature. Pre-blipping before switching gear for rev matching?

My humble Wira doesn't do that. But I doubt it's anything to worry about unless the rev is really high.

I've no idea what Diaqueen is made up of. The alternative I'd recommend is Proton original SPIII. Best to get this from a reputable seller, too many fakes out there. It's pretty hard to find another pure type of SPIII in the market. Got lots of those multi-atfs out there but having tried the Pennzoil one, can't say I'm impressed. Assuming Diaqueen is fully synthetic, you should be able to drag it to 60k no problem.

 

[saifudinbahrudin]

Bro Iszo,

looking fwd to Radiator flush as well !

 

[Izso]

Bro Iszo,

looking fwd to Radiator flush as well !

Coming right up! I have to sort out the pictures. I just did it yesterday

 

[cutebanana]

How about cleaning fuel injectors the mechanical way ? I really want to learn this for a long time. Thanks in advance.

 

[mike77kl]

The cooling system, the most important maintenance we should never neglect,
yet many took it for granted till their expensive car also can stop at roadside with bonnet up
due to overheating. Finally, a radiator flush DIY. I want to see how Iszo-san did it.

Anyways, i already bought the DiaQueen ATF SPIII 4L for RM110.
Then the Proton RAD Coolant 1L for RM20, damn..should have taken the Toyota Long Life.
And DOT-3 brake fluid 400mL for RM6
P/Saga 12V ATF Filter (Odaka) for RM18, inside got the filter and gasket only
Grey Gum (Hardex) RM15 to draw a big circle on the gasket.
etc stuffs, fuel filter RM5, 3M carb cleaner RM15, oil filter RM6 (cheap one).

 

[Izso]

How about cleaning fuel injectors the mechanical way ? I really want to learn this for a long time. Thanks in advance.

There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.

 

[mike77kl]

My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?

 

[Izso]

My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?

I doubt changing a fuel filter will save fuel. But changing it will guarantee a better working fueling system. Whether that results in fuel saving or not, I'm not too sure. Perhaps the fuel pump works less harder because there's no clog? I dunno. :hmmmm:

 

[cutebanana]

There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.

Thanks for the heads up.