[DIY] Flush ATF and change filter

mike77kl

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mike77kl

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@Izso
I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.
 

Izso

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I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.
Hmm.. rev a little when shifting? I've no idea. Perhaps that's a Saga unique feature. Pre-blipping before switching gear for rev matching? :biggrin:

My humble Wira doesn't do that. But I doubt it's anything to worry about unless the rev is really high.

I've no idea what Diaqueen is made up of. The alternative I'd recommend is Proton original SPIII. Best to get this from a reputable seller, too many fakes out there. It's pretty hard to find another pure type of SPIII in the market. Got lots of those multi-atfs out there but having tried the Pennzoil one, can't say I'm impressed. Assuming Diaqueen is fully synthetic, you should be able to drag it to 60k no problem.
 

mike77kl

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The cooling system, the most important maintenance we should never neglect,
yet many took it for granted till their expensive car also can stop at roadside with bonnet up
due to overheating. Finally, a radiator flush DIY. I want to see how Iszo-san did it.

Anyways, i already bought the DiaQueen ATF SPIII 4L for RM110.
Then the Proton RAD Coolant 1L for RM20, damn..should have taken the Toyota Long Life.
And DOT-3 brake fluid 400mL for RM6
P/Saga 12V ATF Filter (Odaka) for RM18, inside got the filter and gasket only
Grey Gum (Hardex) RM15 to draw a big circle on the gasket.
etc stuffs, fuel filter RM5, 3M carb cleaner RM15, oil filter RM6 (cheap one).
 

Izso

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How about cleaning fuel injectors the mechanical way ? I really want to learn this for a long time. Thanks in advance.
There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.
 

mike77kl

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My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?
 

Izso

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My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?
I doubt changing a fuel filter will save fuel. But changing it will guarantee a better working fueling system. Whether that results in fuel saving or not, I'm not too sure. Perhaps the fuel pump works less harder because there's no clog? I dunno. :hmmmm:
 

cutebanana

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There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.
Thanks for the heads up.
 

cRazYee

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bolt are recommend tighten with torque wrench
so nothing is overdo

of cause if it comes to your budget for tools
 

me2kimi

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Bro Iszo, this thing just cross my mind. What if I buy oil filter relocate kit and use it as gb filter. Then it will be easier to change that filter
 

Izso

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Bro Iszo, this thing just cross my mind. What if I buy oil filter relocate kit and use it as gb filter. Then it will be easier to change that filter
Nah. The oil filter relocation kit accommodates the cylindrical oil filter. The ATF filter is one flat black piece. I don't think the pressure in the GB is strong enough anyway to circulate the oil if you added a relocation kit and a oil filter. You could try and post it up here though!
 

mike77kl

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Hi, my saga usually starts easy, just one short crank and it starts.
Today drive to work no problem and it has been raining whole day,
then in the evening while i want to go home my car started but stalled
after it traveled for a very short distance. Then i tried to crank and crank
but it wont come alive and i let it rest for like a minute and crank again
and it came alive. This happened b4 like on last saturday my dad use this
car to go pasar, suddently on half way the engine stall and behind got car
coming, he had no choice but to put to N and crank, and luckily it came
back alive and he put back to D and zooms away. Help, why is my Saga
acting like this, really worries people who uses it. I feel no peace.

Ok, now the techinical part, what could it be?

Car is a 1991 Saga AB 1.5 Auto 12V

Battery? Starter? -should be fine, is cranking well
Fuel filter? - i just change it like 2 weeks ago
Fuel pump? - this model is using a mechnical pump, it never dies
Coil and distributer? -for 12V is a 2in1 unit in the same housing, previous owner said its new

now only left the spark cables and plugs, what else i missed?

better get it change also, whatever it is, leave no stones unturn now.
if i am going to shop this Saturday for a spark cables, what should i look for?
no i dun think i can wait till Saturday, i might get straggle on roadside, too risky...
i think better take leave tomorrow and get it done, got to make the ignition
system tip top. I want to change spark plugs too, should i go hot, cold, or mid
and how to determine that? Haynes recommends Champion RN9YCC with 0.8mm gap.

Any commend and advises are highly appreciated.
 

Izso

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Suggest you open a new thread for that Mike, maybe someone out there with the same car as you can tell you how to fix it
 

ayen_s

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Now i wonder if my Proton Gen 2 have any ATF filter? Any body can answer this? If yes, i will do a DIY on this.
 

mike77kl

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Is it easy to plug out and replace the filter? How the filter works? I just see it sticks there.

About the ATF sump, when replace the gasket, should i put sealant on both side of
the gasket?

Cant wait to try out my DiaQueen. Now i scare 4L might not be enuff if i am going to
take down the sump and clean it.

Have u heard of magnetic oil sump plug? I got strong magnets. Could i DIY such a plug
by using super glue and stick the magnet on the plug?
 
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ayen_s

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Have u heard of magnetic oil sump plug? I got strong magnets. Could i DIY such a plug
buy using super glue and stick the magnet on the plug?
I saw magnetic oil sump plug before in a heavy mechinery transmission. It works by attracting metal debris in the oil.

 

mike77kl

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wow, thats a lot of fine metal debris there. Love to see some on the sump nut of my engine
so that i know the DIY is working but again my engine could be in deep shit already if that happens.

I got magnets laying around, i think i should stick some on the sump nuts with glue,
some on the oil filter side, and probably some on my fuel line too. Who knows,
magnets could be able to super charged the fuel and add more kick to it.
 
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Izso

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Is it easy to plug out and replace the filter? How the filter works? I just see it sticks there.

About the ATF sump, when replace the gasket, should i put sealant on both side of
the gasket?

Cant wait to try out my DiaQueen. Now i scare 4L might not be enuff if i am going to
take down the sump and clean it.

Have u heard of magnetic oil sump plug? I got strong magnets. Could i DIY such a plug
by using super glue and stick the magnet on the plug?
The filter is just clipped into place. Unclip it and it'll be out lor. It's a paper filter so all the oil is force fed through the filter.

I have cases where the sump is just bolted on with the gasket without sealant. It'll work as long as the sump is level, the sealant will help if the sump is dented or slightly dented. But there's no harm putting sealant together with your gasket.

I plonked in a hard disc magnet inside the sump right next to the drain bolt. Don't superglue it otherwise it'll be hard to remove the debris. It'll 'stick' to the sump without the superglue, just that the magnetism might fade over time so remember to replace it.
 

mike77kl

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no, i mean to glue it on the other side of the drain bolt so that when put back,
the magnet will be submerge into the oil inside the oil sump, not the outside.

not sealant together with gasket only, i mean to put sealant on "both side" of the gasket.
 

Izso

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no, i mean to glue it on the other side of the drain bolt so that when put back,
the magnet will be submerge into the oil inside the oil sump, not the outside.

not sealant together with gasket only, i mean to put sealant on "both side" of the gasket.
If your magnet is thin and can fit into the screw hole, then do it! It's a good idea as long as the superglue can take the heat.

And yes, both sides of the gasket.
 

punk

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Bro,the inlet and outlet hose u mention is connected to the radiator rite??
i have persona here ...

---------- Post added at 06:44 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:40 PM ----------

Now i wonder if my Proton Gen 2 have any ATF filter? Any body can answer this? If yes, i will do a DIY on this.
i jus bought ATF fluid for persona at spare part shop...they mention persona/gen2 dont have it...they said got steel mesh inside and no need change..anyone can clarify?:confused:
 

Wilson13B

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Great write up bro =)

Dunno why Myvi gearbox are really sensitive to the ATF quality.....last time the gear shift on mine was laggy and unresponsive,i normally drive some automatic which is real sensitive on gear changes so it's a torture to drive the Myvi around the town......after that i replace the Filter,ATF and add a ATF cooler....the ATF and the filter is from Toyota,this type of ATF is real good stuff but came at a real affordable price,the ATF cooler is came from Hayden,after all is done the result was impressive,it put a smile on my face when 1st time test drive it,the gear change was alot smoother than before and can felt the gearbox transfer more torque to the wheel despite having a better FC too as the gearbox not shifting up and down constantly even during cruising.....the top speed somehow are also increased =)

DIY is a good activity to do as it save money and you can know what your ride is doing,my family just don't understand me,they say got money give mechanic do la,thier labour most expensive only 50bucks ma "on normal service" ....but DIY have the fun,the satisfied feel when all the work is done by yourself =)
 

punk

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bro izso, why u dont take out the inlet hose let the old oil flow out through the radiator??
i did mine last week and i create a mess because didnt put a hose flow out from the radiator..:mad:

 

punk

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bro, u should drain it from the drain plug....

the hose is only if u got the machine to flush.....

if the atf filter is mesh type then just clean it and re-use
bro,i mean actually after drain the atf oil from the drain plug,there is still some atf oil in the radiator..
After that pour 2 liter atf and start the car,the old oil in the radiator will flush out replace with the new one instead of coming out through the outlet hose only.. :smokin:

1 more thing, u mean taking out the mesh filter and clean it??:hmmmm:
 
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Izso

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bro izso, why u dont take out the inlet hose let the old oil flow out through the radiator??
i did mine last week and i create a mess because didnt put a hose flow out from the radiator..:mad:

LOL.. Dude, that was a big mistake la. I didn't disconnect from the radiator. I took it out from the gearbox itself and connected a separate hose from that outlet.

bro,i mean actually after drain the atf oil from the drain plug,there is still some atf oil in the radiator..
After that pour 2 liter atf and start the car,the old oil in the radiator will flush out replace with the new one instead of coming out through the outlet hose only.. :smokin:

1 more thing, u mean taking out the mesh filter and clean it??:hmmmm:
Only if it's made of metal mesh. Myvi uses paper. You can't wash that.