[DIY] Flush ATF and change filter

mike77kl

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Aug 29, 2011
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@Izso
I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.
 

Izso

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@Izso
I want to make a correction after i again observe the auto gear change from 1-2. There is no jerk or hesitance when changing gear, just the engine will rev up a little when up shifting 1-2. Is that normal due to 3 speed only auto gearbox?

May i know is the Diaqueen a dyno oil or man made oil? I believe is pretty damn gd oil but the price tag is a bit too much for my cheap Saga unless the oil change interval can be extend.
Hmm.. rev a little when shifting? I've no idea. Perhaps that's a Saga unique feature. Pre-blipping before switching gear for rev matching? :biggrin:

My humble Wira doesn't do that. But I doubt it's anything to worry about unless the rev is really high.

I've no idea what Diaqueen is made up of. The alternative I'd recommend is Proton original SPIII. Best to get this from a reputable seller, too many fakes out there. It's pretty hard to find another pure type of SPIII in the market. Got lots of those multi-atfs out there but having tried the Pennzoil one, can't say I'm impressed. Assuming Diaqueen is fully synthetic, you should be able to drag it to 60k no problem.
 

mike77kl

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The cooling system, the most important maintenance we should never neglect,
yet many took it for granted till their expensive car also can stop at roadside with bonnet up
due to overheating. Finally, a radiator flush DIY. I want to see how Iszo-san did it.

Anyways, i already bought the DiaQueen ATF SPIII 4L for RM110.
Then the Proton RAD Coolant 1L for RM20, damn..should have taken the Toyota Long Life.
And DOT-3 brake fluid 400mL for RM6
P/Saga 12V ATF Filter (Odaka) for RM18, inside got the filter and gasket only
Grey Gum (Hardex) RM15 to draw a big circle on the gasket.
etc stuffs, fuel filter RM5, 3M carb cleaner RM15, oil filter RM6 (cheap one).
 

Izso

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How about cleaning fuel injectors the mechanical way ? I really want to learn this for a long time. Thanks in advance.
There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.
 

mike77kl

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Aug 29, 2011
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My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?
 

Izso

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My gf's Atos Auto EFI injectors still the ori from factory. Now car clocked 120k.
Idle still smooth, never jerk when on drive. Fuel filter also still ori from factory.
I choose to pump BHP petrol since more additives to clean injectors, i guess.
Anyways, car will be sold tomorrow for 11k only, bye2 K-Car.

As for my Saga, i just change the fuel filter. Got 2 holes, in and out. I notice the holes
from the old fuel filter is a little bigger then the new one i bought. Will this add restriction
and cause power loss? Anyways, what is the benefit of a new fuel filter for carb cars?
I hope it helps save me some fuel. But from what i have read, new fuel filter will help EFI cars
save fuel while a new air filter will helps carb cars save fuel. True or not?
I doubt changing a fuel filter will save fuel. But changing it will guarantee a better working fueling system. Whether that results in fuel saving or not, I'm not too sure. Perhaps the fuel pump works less harder because there's no clog? I dunno. :hmmmm:
 

cutebanana

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There's some controversy to this item. I don't really believe in the need to do this cleaning unless your car was made when leaded petrol was still the norm. Most modern cars nowadays have fuel filters so your injectors are very unlikely to get clogged if you don't open and expose them ever so often.
Thanks for the heads up.
 

cRazYee

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bolt are recommend tighten with torque wrench
so nothing is overdo

of cause if it comes to your budget for tools
 

me2kimi

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Bro Iszo, this thing just cross my mind. What if I buy oil filter relocate kit and use it as gb filter. Then it will be easier to change that filter
 

Izso

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Bro Iszo, this thing just cross my mind. What if I buy oil filter relocate kit and use it as gb filter. Then it will be easier to change that filter
Nah. The oil filter relocation kit accommodates the cylindrical oil filter. The ATF filter is one flat black piece. I don't think the pressure in the GB is strong enough anyway to circulate the oil if you added a relocation kit and a oil filter. You could try and post it up here though!
 

mike77kl

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Aug 29, 2011
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Hi, my saga usually starts easy, just one short crank and it starts.
Today drive to work no problem and it has been raining whole day,
then in the evening while i want to go home my car started but stalled
after it traveled for a very short distance. Then i tried to crank and crank
but it wont come alive and i let it rest for like a minute and crank again
and it came alive. This happened b4 like on last saturday my dad use this
car to go pasar, suddently on half way the engine stall and behind got car
coming, he had no choice but to put to N and crank, and luckily it came
back alive and he put back to D and zooms away. Help, why is my Saga
acting like this, really worries people who uses it. I feel no peace.

Ok, now the techinical part, what could it be?

Car is a 1991 Saga AB 1.5 Auto 12V

Battery? Starter? -should be fine, is cranking well
Fuel filter? - i just change it like 2 weeks ago
Fuel pump? - this model is using a mechnical pump, it never dies
Coil and distributer? -for 12V is a 2in1 unit in the same housing, previous owner said its new

now only left the spark cables and plugs, what else i missed?

better get it change also, whatever it is, leave no stones unturn now.
if i am going to shop this Saturday for a spark cables, what should i look for?
no i dun think i can wait till Saturday, i might get straggle on roadside, too risky...
i think better take leave tomorrow and get it done, got to make the ignition
system tip top. I want to change spark plugs too, should i go hot, cold, or mid
and how to determine that? Haynes recommends Champion RN9YCC with 0.8mm gap.

Any commend and advises are highly appreciated.
 

Izso

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Suggest you open a new thread for that Mike, maybe someone out there with the same car as you can tell you how to fix it
 

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