citric acid to remove radiator rust

Uh.... it's not my discovery. LOL

Credits go to uponriversky for having the balls to try it on his newly rebuilt car!

thanks for that, my balls were as big as peas when conducting the experiment, but as day passes by i gained confidence it grows back to normal size hahaha:rofl:

my car does not rumble, temperature is stable, and ive checked the radiator water solution almost every morning till today and solution has consistent blue colour and nothing looks worrying yet, im going to do this for another month, only then ill be fully confident that my experiment was safe

how u know i just had my car rebuilt? :confused:
 
thanks for that, my balls were as big as peas when conducting the experiment, but as day passes by i gained confidence it grows back to normal size hahaha:rofl:

my car does not rumble, temperature is stable, and ive checked the radiator water solution almost every morning till today and solution has consistent blue colour and nothing looks worrying yet, im going to do this for another month, only then ill be fully confident that my experiment was safe

how u know i just had my car rebuilt? :confused:

I think you mentioned it before in another thread. Big fan of yours. :biggrin:
 
I think you mentioned it before in another thread. Big fan of yours. :biggrin:

likewise :biggrin:

just found out something useful, iron rusts into iron oxide and becomes flakey thus exposes the surface for further rust which makes iron structure weaker by days, but aluminium corrodes into aluminium oxide, a very hard material which in turn protects it from further oxidation

so i guess no worries on aluminium corrosion, but rusting iron is :)
 
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Let's use science...

Acid makes oxidation faster. Not cleanses it. It can be used to dissolve away the top layer of rust. However, once dissolved away, the acid immediately hit the fresh layer of metal therefore slightly oxidising it almost immediately.

All depending on concentration.....

By the time the top layer of ferum oxide dilute into the vinegar, the vinegar might not have access Hydrogen Ions (H+) to attack the innder layer...

---------- Post added at 03:06 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:03 AM ----------

likewise :biggrin:

just found out something useful, iron rusts into iron oxide and becomes flakey thus exposes the surface for further rust which makes iron structure weaker by days, but aluminium corrodes into aluminium oxide, a very hard material which in turn protects it from further oxidation

so i guess no worries on aluminium corrosion, but rusting iron is :)

Haha... AlO3 can't even be melt into liquid metal at the temperature of 750ºC. The melting temperature is much much higher than other aluminium... And it's as hard as rock..!!!
 
Just want to share a Google book link on a chapter on cooling system. Some interesting points:
- Using volt meter to check coolant conductivity if there is a possibility of electrolysis in the system
- Aluminum oxide is abrasive... need to cleanse out cooling system
- Coolant used should be close to 50% strength
- As coolant ages, it slowly becomes acidic. Coolant has a reserve alkalinity to prevent rust.
- Use distilled/purified water. This ensures adequate/proper/accurate 50% coolant dilution and strength.
- Coolant with some amount of sodium silicate provides good aluminum protection
- Importance of removing air from cooling system
- ...lot's more info... go read the book

Automotive service: inspection ... - Tim Gilles - Google Books

All in all good info/book for DIYers
 
Those who own old car with rust problem dont try this at home..hehe

got friend of mine try this, initially he got rust problem but couldnt be able to get rid of it. car is almost 15 years old so he read this superb idea of putting acid to the radiator..viola in 2 days the car went from bad to worse. Now car cannot move since water all pouring out from the water jacket. One thing i agree by putting vinegar or what so ever will corrode the metal faster..
 
Don't want to take the risk of sudden water leakage or clogging. Also you won't be sure that the rust will be totally removed as you can't see within. Rust will come back and haunt you again.





sports turf
 
Wah! 4 years ago topic.
Bro. Sailorbob, why not use the correct product meant for radiator flush.
However whether vinegar, acid or radiator flush product that can flush the radiator means it is quite corrosive, therefore make sure after flushing with these chemical/products, the radiator system is flush clean of them, means flush with clean water then only add coolant
 
me too use the mild citric acid meant for drain clog-cleaner...and meant to use with warm water.....managed to remove a few big chunk of rust (it came out clumping like clay).......

flushed for good 4-5times with warm engine...




but i'm still unsure what was the cause of my missing waterpump blade....1-if the previous workshop didnt replace my waterpump during timingbelt change (and charged for it) or that cheap mixed various brand of coolant or imitation toyota LLC used previously (that clogged my radiator and overheated my car again) or that citric acid flush....

but no worries...replaced new waterpump during recent timingbelt change (3-4years old timingbelt if i remember correctly)
 

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Wah! first time I see no more blades left. Even my water pump leak time change, blades are still there, rusty only.....
 
Wah! first time I see no more blades left. Even my water pump leak time change, blades are still there, rusty only.....

because i only change waterpump on 2nd time timingbelt change....so a lot of thing happens between that....didnt sure which one was the root cause... :banghead:
 
because i only change waterpump on 2nd time timingbelt change....so a lot of thing happens between that....didnt sure which one was the root cause... :banghead:

Even that wonder how your car was cooling without the blades......:hmmmm::biggrin:
 
Even that wonder how your car was cooling without the blades......:hmmmm::biggrin:


it was doing fine....thats weird....the only occasional near overheating cases due to melted radiator fan socket only(and faulty fan motor replaced afterward)....other than that coolant temp all great..... :hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm:

but i didnt have thermostat for almost forever... :rofl:
 
Even no thermostat pump got no blade at all, so how to circulate the water?....:rolleyes:
 
Even no thermostat pump got no blade at all, so how to circulate the water?....:rolleyes:

yeah me too puzzled with that condition of blades...still the engine working fine without any temperature spike....

probably the water moves itself due to temperature differences? :rofl:
 
So I decided to try and clean the cooling system with vinegar like the guy 4 years ago who originally posted his experience. Did this on a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L whose coolant hadn't been changed for 7 years and had to have the radiator replace two years ago. Water pump is the original I think.

So I drained the coolant, took out the thermostat ( which was rotted and stuck closed ) and to and disconnected the radiator hoses from the block. Then rinsed cold engine with waterhose. I found that it helps to stick the hose in at both ends of the radiator. Then fill and run with distilled water, drain and fill with about 1/3 5% synthetic vinegar and 2/3 distilled water.

Some before pics from inside the engine block:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/picture.php?albumid=3220&pictureid=11084 http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/picture.php?albumid=3220&pictureid=11085

The bottle on far right is the first vinegar flush, the middle one the second, and the third after running distilled water to clean it out ( after flushing it with the water hose ).

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/picture.php?albumid=3220&pictureid=11086

I'll upload the after pics soon.
 

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