BOT (Bolt On Turbo)

Zeroed said:
Ahah no way Im going to boost 1.5 bars la, conrods wont take it. The TD04 would run out of breath at about 1.2 bars as well... Im thinking 1 bar, not sure why I went for those pistons also. More durability la I guess. :D

From what my mechanic tested, using the 8.0 compression 4AGZE pistons gave me lower compression than a stock GSR. Because of this 1.0 bars would be fine and durable even without metal gaskets. Im worried about the ECU rechipping though, if the fuelling isnt done well enough god knows what will happen...

Hmm so your project is starting after your exams? Bet you cant wait right...hehe

Whoah!! When your ride is ready, remember to let me have a ride in it.
 
Shellz: no problem dude.. didnt really help also actually~

Zeroed: I also want a ride ler... Haha. But.. compression ratio at 8.0 not too low kar? I'm planning to go 9.0 for mine.. hehe. Anyone has comments on this?
 
8.0 piston doesnt really giv exactly 8.0 CR.. it depends on the block n head also (n also the gasket) but for sure the CR will drop till certain safer level lor..
n the most important is the tuning part i think.. no matter wad CR level..
my 2 cetns..
 
The simplest & lowest-cost turbo charging method

jzhost said:
no idea would you need that much stuff to make a mivec turbo...

currently driving mivec 1.6 turbo, things needed is
low comp. piston ; metal gasket ; turbo ; 4g93t extractor ; intercooler ; 1 bar map sensor ; 1 extra injector ; fuel regulator ; obit piggyback

QUOTE]

There is always different level of tuning or turbo-charging any na engines from different person.

If you are not conscious of fine engineering of modifying a Mivec, certainly you can omit most gadgets as most of you mentioned before. You can even go with the cheapest way with few parts as follows too :-


1. Get a used turbo unit [fr. Rm. 250 - 1200.00]
2. Homemade turbo mounting & minimum piping with no intercooler. [Around Rm. 600.00]
3.
Used Simple pressure fuel regulator to compensate fuel loss [Rm.300.00]
4.
Used Boost-Cut Eliminator to allow original ECU operates normally. [Rm.350.00]
5.
Self-installation + tuning of all above parts [Rm. 000.00]


With all above-mentioned parts that cost less than Rm.3000, you can ENJOY any turbo engine by using 0.3bar of boost pressure with no hassle already.
 
Limits of STD engine when turbocharged

HEY! guys. do not think of boosting more than 0.7bar to most original na engine. Unless you intend to invest a lot of money into it. There is always different level of tuning or turbo-charging any na engines from different person.

If you are not so conscious of fine engineering for turbocharging, just omit most fine-tuned gadgets & go the cheapest way with few parts as follows :-


1. Get a used turbo unit [fr. Rm. 250 - 1200]
2. Homemade turbo mounting & minimum piping with no intercooler. [Around Rm. 600]

3. 2nd hand FSE Simple pressurise fuel regulator to compensate fuel loss [Rm.350]
4. 2nd hand Boost-Cut Eliminator to allow original ECU operates normally. [Rm.350]
5. Self-installation + tuning of all above parts [FOC]


With all above-mentioned parts that cost less than Rm.3000, you can ENJOY any turbo engine by using 0.3bar of boost pressure with no hassle already.
 
""With all above-mentioned parts that cost less than Rm.3000, you can ENJOY any turbo engine by using 0.3bar of boost pressure with no hassle already.""

for me, RM 3k just for boost .3 bar, i rather just keep my NA or add another few K to get high cc car better.

i do not mod any internal except 1.8 piston.

the things is im boosting at ""0.9"" BAR, im happy with it and nothings wrong so so far... ofcause how much you pay and how much you get this for sure.

and thats my daily car, diring here and there everyday

perhaps interested bolton owner can go to D.R. look for andy and he will explain to you more.

ps: im not part of D.R. and dont get any incentive by bring in cutomer, just only a normal satisfy owner so far
 
Last edited:
cheamys said:
HEY! guys. do not think of boosting more than 0.7bar to most original na engine. Unless you intend to invest a lot of money into it. There is always different level of tuning or turbo-charging any na engines from different person.

If you are not so conscious of fine engineering for turbocharging, just omit most fine-tuned gadgets & go the cheapest way with few parts as follows :-


1. Get a used turbo unit [fr. Rm. 250 - 1200]
2. Homemade turbo mounting & minimum piping with no intercooler. [Around Rm. 600]

3. 2nd hand FSE Simple pressurise fuel regulator to compensate fuel loss [Rm.350]
4. 2nd hand Boost-Cut Eliminator to allow original ECU operates normally. [Rm.350]
5. Self-installation + tuning of all above parts [FOC]


With all above-mentioned parts that cost less than Rm.3000, you can ENJOY any turbo engine by using 0.3bar of boost pressure with no hassle already.


Can this be applied to vtec engines?
 
Initial D: No problem dude... during one of those ProHatch TTs la.

Krypton: Is 9.0 the stock compression ratio for a GSR? So far my car is still quite drivable when off-boost despite the low compression. :)

WhiteBird: Yeah youre right. The pistons give a 8.0 compression ratio in a 4AGZE, in a 4G93 it would be different. Im not sure of the exact figure, my mechanic only told me that its lower than a standard GSR.

Cheamys: I'd say boosting 0.5 bars is about the safe zone for most NA engines... and boosting even 0.3 bars on a NA engine with no intercooler is seriously dangerous man, with some hard driving the pressurised intake air will be dangerously hot. Unless you plan to cruise only.


Cavey: As VTEC is a high revving, high compression, high valve lift & duration (at high rpms) engine turbo charging it is going to take way more effort than just plugging in a turbo if you want to engage VTEC...
 
I did my engine at RS at near Taipan there... currently still running in so no serious boosting yet, but after running in will be doing 0.8-1.0 bars.

TD025 on average is about RM300 I think?
 
if i bolt on a turbo without thiker gasket will it blow or now? if just buy a turbo and fix it there with doing nothing to it? Cause acsually i want the turbo not cause of the power just so can have the sound hehehehe
 
Satria racer said:
if i bolt on a turbo without thiker gasket will it blow or now? if just buy a turbo and fix it there with doing nothing to it? Cause acsually i want the turbo not cause of the power just so can have the sound hehehehe

For u being able to ask that question... i suggest u don't try bolting on a turbo... there's LOADS more things u need to do to your car to make it reliable to run with a turbo... even if u run super low boost, without the metal gasket... there's still a certain driving style u'll have to obey to in order not to over-push your engine.

why not just make your life easier and go get one of those fake blow off valve sound thingy.
 
Go see page 4 of this thread. Silverbeast mentioned it all and i think those are like the minimum requirements already. But i feel the engine management side should be a little better then just an safc. Probably at least an e-manage.

Really dude... If you want to just have the pisshhh pissshhh sound then dont put turbo man! Later if not careful instead of pisshhh piissshhh you hear one load KAbBBOooOOmmmMM!! (Does engine blowing up sound like that?)

Like alvin24 sifu said.. if you just want just the blow off sound there are other safer/cheaper/convenient alternatives. I remember seeing somewhere a fake intercooler too.. can look and sound like turbo! :biggrin:
 
Zeroed:
You mentioned before about re-chipping with drax chip. How does it work? Is it like they totally replace your ecu and in its place put a drax ecu ala standalone style? Or like a piggyback that still requires the functions of your ecu?
 
Nah, they'll just change a chip in the ECU to a programmable one and reprogram the fuel mapping and ignition timing. Something like having a e-manage I think, but as for their fuel map resolution Im not sure... methods to determine fuelling is similar to stock via MAF sensor input I guess.
 
So....will this form of management be safe enough to boost at 1 bar? I mean... our cases are similar to running a gsr engine but using back N/A fuel mapping and tweaking it using drax/emange. Will it be similar to a GSR mapping then? Can the airflow sensor detect all that boost?
 

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