B16B using B18Cr Block!

[shiroitenshi]

hmmm, isn't 200whp a bit overstated for a 1.8L? I know a stock K20A from the New FN2 civic type R only makes 150whp. This is on Australian dynos and in Australia ofcourse...:hmmmm: K20A + EK9 =

Well.. you can search up the previous threads.. it's not something that's unachievable, as it was not done once, but twice... the prev threads were inclusive of dyno charts.. one was a stock block with milled head sans accessories, got 206whp on dyno dynamics (at 9K, if I'm not mistaken). This was by a track racer, his nick is chris2000 on zth.

The other one was on a Dastek dyno, which some may say reads high, but considering the fact that the injectors were severely undersized for the application, managed to get 200whp at 9K... I believe 215 is achievable due to the capacity and compression, but currently the owner is planning to switch to another management system (he believes that it's the management issue inclusive of the injector sizes.) I tend to agree.. with more agressive setups, the closed loop function of the stock ECU is a serious damper on performance, and it's risky as well, because it leans out fuelling at part throttle (which incidentally is affected by more variables than I can remember), and coupled with too high ignition advance.. Kablooie!

But civic K20A type R making 150whp? Err.. I think there's a few posts here about K20ARs making somewhere in the region of 200++whp here in stock form... and I've personally seen a dyno chart of one to boot at 230 whp, with fat torque at low end that makes my B16A look like an anorexic.... 150whp peak? Heck, my B16A makes more than that at the wheels, even if I factor in dyno overeading by 10hp!
As for the Toda strokers... well.. it costs quite a bomb, that I know, but I'm not sure of the specifications and unless it is a big stroke combo.. well.. I'm not sure it's worth the money.. the stock R crank, I believe has been tested to withstand high hp, and it's probably not the weak link in the engine.. unlike the pistons/rod.

Anyway.. 9K+ on a B18C = extreme sleeve wear.. unless if it's resleeved with harder liners.. don't expect the engine to last long.

Then again.. when you resleeve, why stick with only 81mm bore? Heh.

Oh, Toda forged pistons have very high comp.. esp their 82mm bore units which don't seem to have a mild dome, although the chart that came with the piston seems to mention a version with a smaller displacement dome for less compression. But never seen that one, and don't know if it's even available on the market or not.

If lastability.. stock R 1.8 stuff.. probably with Toda As or something... and rev-limit will probably be your best friend in retaining that lastability.. 9K is good for weekend rides, but if a daily driven car.. well.. you can ease off the pedal or drive frugally, but who does, when they have 9K rpm on tap? (^_^)

And the tuning is probably one thing you will have to consider to get that last bit of power out of the stock unit.. but as one guy already proven here... it can be done, and on a slightly modified stock block with cams no less.

However some people saying B16B is slow?! Wtf! :hmmmm: probally because they running a pod filter in a hot engine bay in a hot country LOL... or maybe their engines have lost compression due to wear... but anyhow, it's how you tune it. My EK9 comfortabally hits 0-100 in 6secs or less.

It is.. unless you tune it.. running it with the stock ECU once made me think that it is slow. It takes like ages for it to climb to the VTEC point. Again.. stock ECU.. tuning would probably sort that out.. but in stock form.. yeah.. the B16B is slow. But modded wise.. ask one guy here who probably can lay the claim to having one of the fastest B16B's around. I'm sure he will drop by this thread soon.. :P

 

[jugbugz]

Well.. you can search up the previous threads.. it's not something that's unachievable, as it was not done once, but twice... the prev threads were inclusive of dyno charts.. one was a stock block with milled head sans accessories, got 206whp on dyno dynamics (at 9K, if I'm not mistaken). This was by a track racer, his nick is chris2000 on zth.

The other one was on a Dastek dyno, which some may say reads high, but considering the fact that the injectors were severely undersized for the application, managed to get 200whp at 9K... I believe 215 is achievable due to the capacity and compression, but currently the owner is planning to switch to another management system (he believes that it's the management issue inclusive of the injector sizes.) I tend to agree.. with more agressive setups, the closed loop function of the stock ECU is a serious damper on performance, and it's risky as well, because it leans out fuelling at part throttle (which incidentally is affected by more variables than I can remember), and coupled with too high ignition advance.. Kablooie!

But civic K20A type R making 150whp? Err.. I think there's a few posts here about K20ARs making somewhere in the region of 200++whp here in stock form... and I've personally seen a dyno chart of one to boot at 230 whp, with fat torque at low end that makes my B16A look like an anorexic.... 150whp peak? Heck, my B16A makes more than that at the wheels, even if I factor in dyno overeading by 10hp!
As for the Toda strokers... well.. it costs quite a bomb, that I know, but I'm not sure of the specifications and unless it is a big stroke combo.. well.. I'm not sure it's worth the money.. the stock R crank, I believe has been tested to withstand high hp, and it's probably not the weak link in the engine.. unlike the pistons/rod.

Anyway.. 9K+ on a B18C = extreme sleeve wear.. unless if it's resleeved with harder liners.. don't expect the engine to last long.

Then again.. when you resleeve, why stick with only 81mm bore? Heh.

Oh, Toda forged pistons have very high comp.. esp their 82mm bore units which don't seem to have a mild dome, although the chart that came with the piston seems to mention a version with a smaller displacement dome for less compression. But never seen that one, and don't know if it's even available on the market or not.

If lastability.. stock R 1.8 stuff.. probably with Toda As or something... and rev-limit will probably be your best friend in retaining that lastability.. 9K is good for weekend rides, but if a daily driven car.. well.. you can ease off the pedal or drive frugally, but who does, when they have 9K rpm on tap? (^_^)

And the tuning is probably one thing you will have to consider to get that last bit of power out of the stock unit.. but as one guy already proven here... it can be done, and on a slightly modified stock block with cams no less.

hmmm, pretty interesting... I'm not wanting to blow my engine up soon or later...lol

What's the recommended redline for 1.8 then? stock ITR?

ok, what do you think about these combinations;

opt 1. Spec B camshafts + up rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + Hi Power timing belt

opt 2. Spec C2 camshafts + up-rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + timing belt + oil pump gear + high compression forged pistons + forged connecting rods + 1.8 crankshaft.

Would it be safe or recommended to use High compression pistons with opt 1.

Yup, 150whp stock K20a is normal here in AUS. It's got to do with the sea level attitude etc. US definitely has higher readings like 10-15% more than us here. I don't know about Malaysia. As much as we like our readings to be high and comparable to others around the world, it can't... :(

A friends worked up b18c on his eg only make 152whp as well. Dont get me wrong but his car was pretty damn fast...

 

[jugbugz]

It is.. unless you tune it.. running it with the stock ECU once made me think that it is slow. It takes like ages for it to climb to the VTEC point. Again.. stock ECU.. tuning would probably sort that out.. but in stock form.. yeah.. the B16B is slow. But modded wise.. ask one guy here who probably can lay the claim to having one of the fastest B16B's around. I'm sure he will drop by this thread soon.. :P

I can't wait for his post... :nervous:

I wanna know his mods...

 

[shiroitenshi]

hmmm, pretty interesting... I'm not wanting to blow my engine up soon or later...lol

What's the recommended redline for 1.8 then? stock ITR?

ok, what do you think about these combinations;

opt 1. Spec B camshafts + up rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + Hi Power timing belt

opt 2. Spec C2 camshafts + up-rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + timing belt + oil pump gear + high compression forged pistons + forged connecting rods + 1.8 crankshaft.

Would it be safe or recommended to use High compression pistons with opt 1.

Yup, 150whp stock K20a is normal here in AUS. It's got to do with the sea level attitude etc. US definitely has higher readings like 10-15% more than us here. I don't know about Malaysia. As much as we like our readings to be high and comparable to others around the world, it can't... :(

A friends worked up b18c on his eg only make 152whp as well. Dont get me wrong but his car was pretty damn fast...

Redline is as much as you want your engine to last.. the more you increase the redline, the faster wear you will see. As long as all the parts allow you to run higher rpms, it's totally subjective.

Personally, I'd say 8.5K would be a reasonable limit.. fact is, we're already pushing more horses than a comparable engine in the same displacement.

But 152whp makes me think the B18C came from a GSR, and not a type R variant.

Anyway, strange, because I'd thought that Malaysian's hot weather would have been the worst in terms of having bad hp readouts.

As for the high compression piston question.. how high?

With high compression pistons, you can still have torque with big duration primaries/secondary lobes... Though the cam setting is really important though.. that's where you make or kill power.

 

[jugbugz]

Redline is as much as you want your engine to last.. the more you increase the redline, the faster wear you will see. As long as all the parts allow you to run higher rpms, it's totally subjective.

Personally, I'd say 8.5K would be a reasonable limit.. fact is, we're already pushing more horses than a comparable engine in the same displacement.

But 152whp makes me think the B18C came from a GSR, and not a type R variant.

Anyway, strange, because I'd thought that Malaysian's hot weather would have been the worst in terms of having bad hp readouts.

As for the high compression piston question.. how high?

With high compression pistons, you can still have torque with big duration primaries/secondary lobes... Though the cam setting is really important though.. that's where you make or kill power.

hmmm, lets say I stick with 1.6L and choose opt 1 with TODA spec B cams. What pistons would you recommend? It'd be tuned with a Power FC.

i think maybe stroking the motor will be too much work and money... I might as well install a K20A like SPOON's EK9...

yeh, it's more about the sea level and attitude than hot weather. Different places make different figures... Last time I dynoed on 2 different dynos and got about 20hp difference... crazy...:hmmmm: but K20A no matter where in Australia, it'd push around 150+whp stock. Dynos are just simply measuring tools, we can't use it to compare, as long as you know how it drives then thats all that matters.

If my brother's FN2 CTR had 230whp stock then i can't imagine the acceleration! LOL 0-100 4secs? LOL

 

[shiroitenshi]

hmmm, lets say I stick with 1.6L and choose opt 1 with TODA spec B cams. What pistons would you recommend? It'd be tuned with a Power FC.

i think maybe stroking the motor will be too much work and money... I might as well install a K20A like SPOON's EK9...

yeh, it's more about the sea level and attitude than hot weather. Different places make different figures... Last time I dynoed on 2 different dynos and got about 20hp difference... crazy...:hmmmm: but K20A no matter where in Australia, it'd push around 150+whp stock. Dynos are just simply measuring tools, we can't use it to compare, as long as you know how it drives then thats all that matters.

If my brother's FN2 CTR had 230whp stock then i can't imagine the acceleration! LOL 0-100 4secs? LOL

Never really tested Spec B cams, so cannot say for sure. Probably something a little higher than stock compression.

If you can afford a K20AR, why not? It is the next generation engine, though I'm sure people will have nightmares figuring out the mapping.

B series VTEC, 2 maps for hi and low cams.

K Series i-VTEC. heard there is about 6, based on cam angle, load, and rpm... heh.. good luck finding a tuner for that... I think most people just get a reflash or something since it's easier.

Actually 230whp and up won't really have grip even with semis.. one guy with 260whp with fat torque numbers here simply resorted by going part throttle at the first two gears to avoid excessive wheelspin.. :P

 

[jugbugz]

Never really tested Spec B cams, so cannot say for sure. Probably something a little higher than stock compression.

If you can afford a K20AR, why not? It is the next generation engine, though I'm sure people will have nightmares figuring out the mapping.

B series VTEC, 2 maps for hi and low cams.

K Series i-VTEC. heard there is about 6, based on cam angle, load, and rpm... heh.. good luck finding a tuner for that... I think most people just get a reflash or something since it's easier.

Actually 230whp and up won't really have grip even with semis.. one guy with 260whp with fat torque numbers here simply resorted by going part throttle at the first two gears to avoid excessive wheelspin.. :P

part throttle? lol

Can you still keep the AC etc with K20A swap? AUS has almost no experience with HONDA's, they only know their bloody V8s lol. so thats not good already... I don't mind stock K20A and basic mods, it's already fast.

hmmm, still deciding... it might be cheaper to just stick with 1.6L and get bigger cams and acessories etc, and then wait for k20a correct?

 

[shiroitenshi]

part throttle? lol

Can you still keep the AC etc with K20A swap? AUS has almost no experience with HONDA's, they only know their bloody V8s lol. so thats not good already... I don't mind stock K20A and basic mods, it's already fast.

hmmm, still deciding... it might be cheaper to just stick with 1.6L and get bigger cams and acessories etc, and then wait for k20a correct?

Well... I'm not sure about the parts required to retain AC on the K20 when installing into EK, and in Malaysia at least, K20A is exhorbitantly priced beyond the reach of most Malaysian denizens.

I did however ask about it from hybrid racing, and from what little they told me, A/C is retainable, but need some parts from the EP type R civic. And when I asked before, it seems that the EK steering rack needs to be swapped to the EG's steering rack for header clearance..

And you need a lot of other bits like a shift relocator kit to retain the original gearbox console on the EG.

For Malaysians at least, the B series is the cheapest to play with for now.

 

[jugbugz]

Well... I'm not sure about the parts required to retain AC on the K20 when installing into EK, and in Malaysia at least, K20A is exhorbitantly priced beyond the reach of most Malaysian denizens.

I did however ask about it from hybrid racing, and from what little they told me, A/C is retainable, but need some parts from the EP type R civic. And when I asked before, it seems that the EK steering rack needs to be swapped to the EG's steering rack for header clearance..

And you need a lot of other bits like a shift relocator kit to retain the original gearbox console on the EG.

For Malaysians at least, the B series is the cheapest to play with for now.

How much for a K20A in Malaysia? Or a B18C and B16B? I know about the displacement tax etc, it's crazy, and cars there cost like 3 times more than here... geez... there must be some privilege driving fast cars there...

Yeh, EK chassis is the harder one to install K20a. I heard that theres so many bits and pieces not to mention the ones that you've just mentioned...sigh...but so many people in the US have done it... theres 1 in perth on an EK chassis but not sure if it was the hatch or coupe.

I've got a lot of time to decide as it's not urgent or anything, but K20A sounds like a S*** load of work needed.

I've also heard lots of good reports of the CRV 2.0 block swaped over to the B16, but then again you still need to add bits and pieces compared to 1.8L and can't rev high at all... lol Is this correct?

I don't mind to stay 1.6 as there is more credibility on the street, but 1.8 is the kind of power I want. If I change the Crankshaft and rods from DC2R and keep my CTR pistons for higher compression, then what mods on top of that would you recommend?

I'll be emailing my sources in Japan about SPOON's block brace to see if he can get it for me. Everyone knows SPOON's 11,000rpm EK9 right? If I got the chance then this way is another option. Theres some arguement if that 11krpm ek9 was a stock engine or not. This I don't know and have searched it up and says only block brace and oil pan was installed. Do you or anybody know about this?

 

[jugbugz]

Ok, I just heard that in oct 06 SPOON created a 13,000rpm B16B with 14,000rpm redline, with a 215Ps and 235km/h top speed, 0-100M 4.2 sec...

Man, I want some info

 

[shiroitenshi]

How much for a K20A in Malaysia? Or a B18C and B16B? I know about the displacement tax etc, it's crazy, and cars there cost like 3 times more than here... geez... there must be some privilege driving fast cars there...

Yeh, EK chassis is the harder one to install K20a. I heard that theres so many bits and pieces not to mention the ones that you've just mentioned...sigh...but so many people in the US have done it... theres 1 in perth on an EK chassis but not sure if it was the hatch or coupe.

I've got a lot of time to decide as it's not urgent or anything, but K20A sounds like a S*** load of work needed.

I've also heard lots of good reports of the CRV 2.0 block swaped over to the B16, but then again you still need to add bits and pieces compared to 1.8L and can't rev high at all... lol Is this correct?

I don't mind to stay 1.6 as there is more credibility on the street, but 1.8 is the kind of power I want. If I change the Crankshaft and rods from DC2R and keep my CTR pistons for higher compression, then what mods on top of that would you recommend?

I'll be emailing my sources in Japan about SPOON's block brace to see if he can get it for me. Everyone knows SPOON's 11,000rpm EK9 right? If I got the chance then this way is another option. Theres some arguement if that 11krpm ek9 was a stock engine or not. This I don't know and have searched it up and says only block brace and oil pan was installed. Do you or anybody know about this?

Well.. don't have spoons, but there's one made by SS Works Japan that I have for sale.. It's was supposed to be used on a 2.3 litre unit, but somehow it couldn't clear the 94mm crank. Let me know if you want it. The spoon one is expensive, and if I'm not wrong, requires the Spoon oil pan as well.

High compression needs a few thing to be effective, cams, and tuning. This is because cams essentially adjust the point of peak flow (which indirectly effects where your peak torque points are) and the high comp pistons are so that you can retain power at the lower RPMs from the big duration cams.
And yes, the CRV block on B16A head is a good setup.. you don't need ungodly high rpms to get power. With even bigger bore and strokers, you can rival a stock K20AR.

And there's a few B20B owners here who has more than 200whp output I think.

Prices: K20AR about about 28K+ (because you need everything including the engine harness anyway) , B18C 8K or so, B16B 5K or so

 

[hattech-v]

what is the max stroke for b16b/b18c block?
is it 92mm?

 

[jugbugz]

Well.. don't have spoons, but there's one made by SS Works Japan that I have for sale.. It's was supposed to be used on a 2.3 litre unit, but somehow it couldn't clear the 94mm crank. Let me know if you want it. The spoon one is expensive, and if I'm not wrong, requires the Spoon oil pan as well.

High compression needs a few thing to be effective, cams, and tuning. This is because cams essentially adjust the point of peak flow (which indirectly effects where your peak torque points are) and the high comp pistons are so that you can retain power at the lower RPMs from the big duration cams.
And yes, the CRV block on B16A head is a good setup.. you don't need ungodly high rpms to get power. With even bigger bore and strokers, you can rival a stock K20AR.

And there's a few B20B owners here who has more than 200whp output I think.

Prices: K20AR about about 28K+ (because you need everything including the engine harness anyway) , B18C 8K or so, B16B 5K or so

SS works, hmmm is it for B16B? Straight bolt on? I might be interested once I know whats needed to create a 11,000rpm B16B.

Yeh thats why lowered compression turbo cars are laggy when they boost high.

The only problem with crv block + B16 head is the weight. I don't want to weigh down my EK9 and sacrifice handling :/

28K is crazy for K20A! Is this in $AUD? B18C and B16B is same price everywhere else, its just because B16B is exclusive.

If I can go 11,000rpm then this would probally be what I would choose to do because it's 'Unique'

14,000rpm would be the ultimate...

 

[jugbugz]

oh yeah, what oil does everyone recommend here?

I've tried Castrol edge 100% Synthetic 5W-30 which made strange noise when revving between 8600-9000rpm. Mechanic changed it to Mobil 1 100% synthetic 5W-50 then noise wasn't there.

I've got Motul 8100 5W-40 and Castrol Edge 0W-40 sitting at home waiting to try out.

 

[shiroitenshi]

SS works, hmmm is it for B16B? Straight bolt on? I might be interested once I know whats needed to create a 11,000rpm B16B.

Yeh thats why lowered compression turbo cars are laggy when they boost high.

The only problem with crv block + B16 head is the weight. I don't want to weigh down my EK9 and sacrifice handling :/

28K is crazy for K20A! Is this in $AUD? B18C and B16B is same price everywhere else, its just because B16B is exclusive.

If I can go 11,000rpm then this would probally be what I would choose to do because it's 'Unique'

14,000rpm would be the ultimate...

Well..the SS works block girdle / or block brace as they call it was meant for the B16B/18C. It was used in one of SS works Japan's track car with 10,000rpm. Underestimated the length of the 94mm crank and got stuck with it. Well.. 11,000 rpm is doable, making is lastable as a street engine would pose a problem.

remember even with higher oil pressure with an upgraded oil pump, the main crank bearings are still just a metal piece depending on oil feed. High RPM would probably necessitate the use of good engine oils with regular changes, etc, and you'd probably have to tear down the engine every so often to check the bearings.

One more thing would probably be vibrations, even a balanced engine have some amount of vibration due to the way the inline 4 piston arrangement. Compound that by 11,000 times a piston travel from the bottom of the block to the top of the deck per minute, you can see where the vibrations will come from.

Good setup? In my opinion, Ductile Iron sleeved block, or dart.. big bore, big stroke.. no need 9K rpm.. just 7.5-8K can net you crazy horsepower for entry into the 200+whp club. Quite lasting too, since the sleeves are hard, likely your piston ring wears out first than the block.. :P

It's not cheap, but it's a reliable engine with big hp potential. Cheaper than the K series, at least in Malaysia.

 

[jugbugz]

Well..the SS works block girdle / or block brace as they call it was meant for the B16B/18C. It was used in one of SS works Japan's track car with 10,000rpm. Underestimated the length of the 94mm crank and got stuck with it. Well.. 11,000 rpm is doable, making is lastable as a street engine would pose a problem.

remember even with higher oil pressure with an upgraded oil pump, the main crank bearings are still just a metal piece depending on oil feed. High RPM would probably necessitate the use of good engine oils with regular changes, etc, and you'd probably have to tear down the engine every so often to check the bearings.

One more thing would probably be vibrations, even a balanced engine have some amount of vibration due to the way the inline 4 piston arrangement. Compound that by 11,000 times a piston travel from the bottom of the block to the top of the deck per minute, you can see where the vibrations will come from.

Good setup? In my opinion, Ductile Iron sleeved block, or dart.. big bore, big stroke.. no need 9K rpm.. just 7.5-8K can net you crazy horsepower for entry into the 200+whp club. Quite lasting too, since the sleeves are hard, likely your piston ring wears out first than the block.. :P

It's not cheap, but it's a reliable engine with big hp potential. Cheaper than the K series, at least in Malaysia.

So your saying 10k rpm would be more reliable with the block brace + Spec B cams etc etc? I think SPOON said that brace will make power till 10k and redline 11k. Any difference between SS works and SPOONs block brace? Is it a used or new one?

I don't know how SPOON made the B16B to spin 14,000rpm... rumors said they've reached 17,000rpm. I don't know if 17K rpm is true or not.

Check out these specs.
Toda Spec B intake: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.0) / 250 (11.0)
Toda Spec B exhuast: 250 (11.0) / 285 (12.0) / 250 (11.0)

Toda Spec C intake: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.5) / 250 (11.0)
Toda Spec C exhuast: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.5) / 250 (11.0)

Not much difference except the exhuast cam. These cams make big mid range and top end power as well as low end. Someone did say that it'll make the 1.6 feel like a 1.8

Yeh that set up sounds pretty extreme... I don't think I'll be going that far... hahah...

How about this setup;
Block brace
Spec B cams or C
+ all acessories(cam gears, valves, valve springs etc etc)
10,000rpm

I'm thinking might as well change the pistons if I do the block brace as time would have worn out the pistons a bit. Should I stick with stock CTR pistons and get them replaced?

 

[shiroitenshi]

So your saying 10k rpm would be more reliable with the block brace + Spec B cams etc etc? I think SPOON said that brace will make power till 10k and redline 11k. Any difference between SS works and SPOONs block brace? Is it a used or new one?

New, never been used... it's a bit simple compared to the spoons one, as it required the use of the original crank caps.

http://www.on.rim.or.jp/~ssworks/partslist2.html
The last picture at the bottom.

I don't know how SPOON made the B16B to spin 14,000rpm... rumors said they've reached 17,000rpm. I don't know if 17K rpm is true or not.

possibly, but remember that these are track engines, and probably overhauled after ever race.

Check out these specs.
Toda Spec B intake: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.0) / 250 (11.0)
Toda Spec B exhuast: 250 (11.0) / 285 (12.0) / 250 (11.0)

Toda Spec C intake: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.5) / 250 (11.0)
Toda Spec C exhuast: 250 (11.0) / 295 (12.5) / 250 (11.0)

Well, you need to know a few things about cams, and that they move the peak engine flow point higher (which affects where the peak power is generated. And they do this in conjuction with exhaust mods like porting the exhaust port, extractor design, and possibly other tricks I've never heard of.

B16A cams generate 3-3.5K rpm peak flow at low cam, and about 6K-6.5 at high.. (this can be played with to a certain extent, but that's another story)

For high duration cams (this is an example from a C2 cam at factory specs, this is usually at 4-4.5 low, and about 7.7.5K high) header design, I think... So far, this is a project in progress as well. Which is why some cams need higher VTEC crossover, because they don't make power in the same places as the stock cam.

Not much difference except the exhuast cam. These cams make big mid range and top end power as well as low end. Someone did say that it'll make the 1.6 feel like a 1.8

Mid range and top end, probably, because the peak flow point is higher than stock, so with proper tune, probably there's power to be made there.

Low end?.. not with higher compression, I think.

How about this setup;
Block brace
Spec B cams or C
+ all acessories(cam gears, valves, valve springs etc etc)
10,000rpm

I'm thinking might as well change the pistons if I do the block brace as time would have worn out the pistons a bit. Should I stick with stock CTR pistons and get them replaced?

Assuming you can get your engine to flow that well to make peak flow at 9+ rpm.. is there a point of having 10K rpm? Spec B cams I think makes power at 7.5-8K, but this is dependent on head porting and other factors mentioned previously (whether it is done or not, and how well it is done)

Spec C cams.. I think the stock timings is also around there, but since someone has made theirs make peak flow point at 9K+ in conjuction with cam timing adjustments, and porting, well.. kind of depends on what other mods you complement it with, I guess.

In reality, there is no one part/mod that works well without another part/mod that complements it.. So in the end, add one part, see if it makes power, if it doesn't, discuss about it, and find out the bottleneck. Initial knowledge helps to prevent buying stuff that is too big or small for the target application.

 

[ccibai]

part throttle? lol

Can you still keep the AC etc with K20A swap? AUS has almost no experience with HONDA's, they only know their bloody V8s lol. so thats not good already... I don't mind stock K20A and basic mods, it's already fast.

hmmm, still deciding... it might be cheaper to just stick with 1.6L and get bigger cams and acessories etc, and then wait for k20a correct?

hi guys,
jugbugz maybe bcoz u r in perth but JDMYARD in sydney can b said as few of the 1st who had egk20a w/itbs ran 12.3@109mph 2-3 yrs ago. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22468&highlight=egk20a
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71567&highlight=egk20a
n few guys in sydney and brisbane both running k20a, k20/k24a, n one of my fren has a egk24a in his eg. AFAIK, u can keep power steering by either using ep3 idle pulley or jackson racing pulley but not too sure bout a/c.

there r 2 types of mounts available off the shelf for k20a into ek - ekk1 and ekk2. With ekk1 the engine will sit further from the firewall aka u will hv some problem with the radiator n fan. ekk2 will sit closer to the firewall but then u will need either eg/dc front crossmember to go with it. apart from engine, u will need fuel rail, custom header, custom intake manifold, somesort of after ecu, harness, karcept shifter box n bits n pcs which with shipping to msia will cost u an arm n leg. although the torque from 2.0/2.4 is sweet but money will b a prob.

shiroitenshi - the reason aus type R only has ard 150whp is bcoz aus type r is not real type r lol - no brembo, smaller cams i bliff , it is more like a detuned version of jdm k20a. stock form they will only pull ard 100-105kwatw. but with toda header + exhaust + hondata kpro - u will b somewhere in the 130kwatw region

 

[shiroitenshi]

shiroitenshi - the reason aus type R only has ard 150whp is bcoz aus type r is not real type r lol - no brembo, smaller cams i bliff , it is more like a detuned version of jdm k20a. stock form they will only pull ard 100-105kwatw. but with toda header + exhaust + hondata kpro - u will b somewhere in the 130kwatw region

I thought so, it's probably on par with the 2.0 K20A3 seen in the Civic ES sedans with 155hp (marketing claimla)

 

[ccibai]

honda aus claimed it to be
Engine: K20A 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC, 147kW@7400RPM, 192Nm@6000RPM
Specific: CR 11:1, Cutout@7900RPM