B16B using B18Cr Block!

hattech-v,
y u always disclose watever i buy sumthg dat u've taken out frm ur engine due 2 ur UPGRADING exercise 1? =)

chris,
very interesting facts der..........B16A can make power up to 9500rpm..so,in ur opinion,wat's d RIGHT cam n pistons choice?

udeng,
ur head lar u duno how 2 find money....of all HCOCians,ur d only who has a spare engine sitting @ home ok?no money...i wan me 2 kick ur ass arg?HAHAHAH
 
ha ha ha. since when you use words like "best" and "the right parts"....dei..the right piston and cams is the one you have to belanja-lebih-sikit-bang :p ....

chris,
very interesting facts der..........B16A can make power up to 9500rpm..so,in ur opinion,wat's d RIGHT cam n pistons choice?
 
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chris2000,
there was a long article between long rods vs short rods for both dart blocks in the previous dsports issue. coincidently i was reading it yesterday. whatever u just said its all good bro.
 
J101,

That issue of dsport, i have some where in my room too. :)

If i didn't recall wrongly, i think the short rod made more power right?
 
B16A r/s is safe to make power to 9500rpm with the right cam choice and piston.
B18C r/s is safe to make power to 9000rpm with the right cam choice and piston.
B16B r/s is safe to make power to 10krpm with the right cam choice and piston.

so in general, it is safe to stroke up a B16B to 1.8 provided we limit the rev to 9000rpm, rite?....that's good enuf i think....
 
so in general, it is safe to stroke up a B16B to 1.8 provided we limit the rev to 9000rpm, rite?....that's good enuf i think....

From my personal testing on B18C stroke/engine.

up to 8500rpm, very reliable provide ecu is tune correctly.

up to 9000rpm, still reliable with just a little more internal wear and tear and require more frequent oil change, again provided ecu tuned.

above 9000rpm, this is where problem start to come where wear and tear to me is unacceptable and a slight variation in ecu tune will cause engine to have problem or a mis-shift at that rev and say bye bye. :shades_smile:

But again these are all in track testing. I have seen many friends road car with B18C doing ocassional 9200-9500rpm on road. Still not blow yet. haha...
 
J101,
belanja lebih sedikit tak semestinya yang terbaik..u never listened 2 d latest TM Let's Talk radio ad arg?HHAHAAHAHAH
 
yes betull... using original crank without spending money on another crank oso good... hehe...poison udeng again..
 
hmmm, B-series are only good up to 9000rpm anyway, they won't make anymore power after that, unless major components are changed and redline 11,000rpm like SPOON's EK9, but still 9000rpm is where it will make the most power. So you don't need to rev more than 9k-9500k.

someone said B16B is cheap? Far out!!! I wish it was cheap here... Thats totally oposite everywhere else around the world, unless it's a B16A or a really thrashed up b16b. but yeh, amazing to see many b16b owners :D

I recommend 1.8L stroker kit from TODA with Spec C cams, valve springs etc etc. Otherwise if you want to stick to 1.6L then Spec B is plenty.

Oh, don't forget that b16B was made for JDM only, so b16B was meant to run on 100 octane to bring out it's true power figures, fuel grade affects your performance of your B16B too... as well as thrashed up engines that would've lost compression over the years... :)
 
hmmm, B-series are only good up to 9000rpm anyway, they won't make anymore power after that, unless major components are changed and redline 11,000rpm like SPOON's EK9, but still 9000rpm is where it will make the most power. So you don't need to rev more than 9k-9500k.

someone said B16B is cheap? Far out!!! I wish it was cheap here... Thats totally oposite everywhere else around the world, unless it's a B16A or a really thrashed up b16b. but yeh, amazing to see many b16b owners :D

I recommend 1.8L stroker kit from TODA with Spec C cams, valve springs etc etc. Otherwise if you want to stick to 1.6L then Spec B is plenty.

Oh, don't forget that b16B was made for JDM only, so b16B was meant to run on 100 octane to bring out it's true power figures, fuel grade affects your performance of your B16B too... as well as thrashed up engines that would've lost compression over the years... :)

Kind of depends on cams and engine setup, as there's a track racer here that exceeded that 10K rpm number on a B16A to achieve 200hp at the wheel. And it's a true 1.6L as well, to conform to the racing class specifications, probably with only at maximum 1mm overbore.

But for road cars, yeah.. 9K is probably the reasonable rpm limit for street cars... though some would know very well that lastability will be affected.
 
Kind of depends on cams and engine setup, as there's a track racer here that exceeded that 10K rpm number on a B16A to achieve 200hp at the wheel. And it's a true 1.6L as well, to conform to the racing class specifications, probably with only at maximum 1mm overbore.

But for road cars, yeah.. 9K is probably the reasonable rpm limit for street cars... though some would know very well that lastability will be affected.

as what spoon says, above 9000rpm, there is too much vibration and fuel ignition won't be accurate, unless you install a block brace like spoons ek9. Thats how they made 11,000rpm, even so, 9000rpm was still where optimum torque was made and 10000rpm was where max hp was made. Anyway, it's nice to have an engine that can rev so high... :D I like the look on peoples faces when I tell people my EK9 revs till 9100rpm :D

If you rev past 9200-9500rpm then valve springs etc etc are needed to be changed(B16B). Toda and Buddy club make very nice cams and valve springs etc.

I'm still deciding on which way I should go... 1.6L + cams, V springs, new valves, etc or TODA's 1.8L stroker kit + cams etc. i like the fact of staying in the 1.6L class though but the 1.8L is more torquey. :D

However some people saying B16B is slow?! Wtf! :hmmmm: probally because they running a pod filter in a hot engine bay in a hot country LOL... or maybe their engines have lost compression due to wear... but anyhow, it's how you tune it. My EK9 comfortabally hits 0-100 in 6secs or less.
 
last time my b16b can rev up to 9.5k rpm without any problem...
and it produce peak power at 9k rpm.

yup, 9500rpm is fine, but you will find your car will go faster at 1/4mile drag when you shift at 9000rpm. :D

so what does everyone recommend about stroking the b16b to 1.8L?
 
yup, 9500rpm is fine, but you will find your car will go faster at 1/4mile drag when you shift at 9000rpm. :D

so what does everyone recommend about stroking the b16b to 1.8L?

Why not? 82mm pistons and 1.8 stock strokers and toda high comp pistons with toda c2 cams can push about 200hp on wheel with all accessories attached.. (a/c, p/s, the works) Definitely can net even more, depending on how far you push for higher ignition without detonating, or tweak it more, depending on tuning time on dyno or cam timing adjustments.. depends on how much low-mid power you're willing to sacrifice for narrow powerband, high torque setups.
 
Why not? 82mm pistons and 1.8 stock strokers and toda high comp pistons with toda c2 cams can push about 200hp on wheel with all accessories attached.. (a/c, p/s, the works) Definitely can net even more, depending on how far you push for higher ignition without detonating, or tweak it more, depending on tuning time on dyno or cam timing adjustments.. depends on how much low-mid power you're willing to sacrifice for narrow powerband, high torque setups.

Toda's 1.8 crankshaft is different from stock B18C or same?

Yeh, TODA was recommending me spec C2 cams with the lot including high compression pistons + 1.8 crankshaft. But, I am concerned about the reliability and life span. Is there much difference between having Spec B or C cams? I saw the lift figures etc and not much difference, just more top end on C cams.

I actually need help on deciding what would be best for reliability and lifespan on the street not track. I won't be tracking my car.

I like mid range power, thats what gives good drivability. I have to say that tuning is the most difficult part and it's hard to find good tuners for Hondas especially in AUS. sighh...
 
Why not? 82mm pistons and 1.8 stock strokers and toda high comp pistons with toda c2 cams can push about 200hp on wheel with all accessories attached.. (a/c, p/s, the works) Definitely can net even more, depending on how far you push for higher ignition without detonating, or tweak it more, depending on tuning time on dyno or cam timing adjustments.. depends on how much low-mid power you're willing to sacrifice for narrow powerband, high torque setups.

hmmm, isn't 200whp a bit overstated for a 1.8L? I know a stock K20A from the New FN2 civic type R only makes 150whp. This is on Australian dynos and in Australia ofcourse...:hmmmm: K20A + EK9 = :adore:
 

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