How to Perform a Radiator Flush

[stupidcar]

With water running during bleeding should not overheat.

Okay understand now. Engine off. Thought why yours running the other way round...haha

---------- Post added at 09:21 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:20 AM ----------



I know hardware shop have, but bro. SC have limited tools mah!.....hahaha

I have to really screw it out then the ring idk how. Its a must to use the plier?

 

[TitanRev]

Just some info to help fellow bros here regarding that pliers. They are called circlip pliers. The round metal fasterner is called circlip ring or C-clip or Jesus clip (very seldom ppl use this name). they have 2 types internal circlip and external circlip and the pliers also they have straight heads or bent down head. Circlip pliers prices ranges from cheap to expensive ones. Cheap ones are made in china and the tip is usually very rough and don't have good holding capabilities and making removing the clips very difficult and risk damaging the clips hole area where you put the pliers's tip into. I'm using a decent set from Stanley, move upwards you will have SATA..the best brand I have tried is Knipex they are from Germany. Some C-clips pliers have interchangeable heads changing from a inner pliers to an outer pliers.

I would recommend having a set at home for car DIY guys because you will find the need for them.
http://stanleyindia.in/mech_specialty/pliers/circlip.html

 

[punk]

I have to really screw it out then the ring idk how. Its a must to use the plier?

Becareful wei, these clip can fly really far.

Safety first i tell u. Dont regret if it hit ur eyes .:trytofly:

 

[stupidcar]

Becareful wei, these clip can fly really far.

Safety first i tell u. Dont regret if it hit ur eyes .:trytofly:

Fark. NVM LAH.
I WILL JUST FLUSH MY CAR WITH THE CAR ENGINE ON. SIGH

 

[twistedichc]

Just some info to help fellow bros here regarding that pliers. They are called circlip pliers. The round metal fasterner is called circlip ring or C-clip or Jesus clip (very seldom ppl use this name). they have 2 types internal circlip and external circlip and the pliers also they have straight heads or bent down head. Circlip pliers prices ranges from cheap to expensive ones. Cheap ones are made in china and the tip is usually very rough and don't have good holding capabilities and making removing the clips very difficult and risk damaging the clips hole area where you put the pliers's tip into. I'm using a decent set from Stanley, move upwards you will have SATA..the best brand I have tried is Knipex they are from Germany. Some C-clips pliers have interchangeable heads changing from a inner pliers to an outer pliers.

I would recommend having a set at home for car DIY guys because you will find the need for them.
http://stanleyindia.in/mech_specialty/pliers/circlip.html

used to think what the hell is this type of pliers r used for. but than again most ordinary people r reluctant to spend more than 10 bucks for it though, u say Stanley oso they're breaking sweat on the forehead just to think wether to buy or not from my experience "lah"

---------- Post added at 04:20 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

just wanna share my experience today @ rather yesterday after installing new rad a week ago. ok wake up for work yadayada than start engine, after warm up, put on the gear, than ehh, y not moving, look @ the gear it's L2 so it should move, kinda late, give it another try than ok. at 3rd traffic light, it happened again, after 2nd try the car move but just enuff power to move to road side, if not gonna be stuck there. after few minutes restart car, revving it halfway oso cannot move, pop up the hood & wallah atf all over engine bay, learned the hose to radiator had a big leak edi, luckily nothing major happened & still got 75% atf in car & my precious mini tool box to do temp fix. cost me 35 bucks for the hose set coz buy frm workshop not spare part shop coz don't have any where 1 work. so lesson learned the hard way, no matter what, if sumthing wrong, do not attempt to drive the car before u check it out, if really in a hurry just use alternative way edi. driving this kancil has teached me a lot bout cars & i'm loving it more.

 

[vr2turbo]

used to think what the hell is this type of pliers r used for. but than again most ordinary people r reluctant to spend more than 10 bucks for it though, u say Stanley oso they're breaking sweat on the forehead just to think wether to buy or not from my experience "lah"

---------- Post added at 04:20 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

just wanna share my experience today @ rather yesterday after installing new rad a week ago. ok wake up for work yadayada than start engine, after warm up, put on the gear, than ehh, y not moving, look @ the gear it's L2 so it should move, kinda late, give it another try than ok. at 3rd traffic light, it happened again, after 2nd try the car move but just enuff power to move to road side, if not gonna be stuck there. after few minutes restart car, revving it halfway oso cannot move, pop up the hood & wallah atf all over engine bay, learned the hose to radiator had a big leak edi, luckily nothing major happened & still got 75% atf in car & my precious mini tool box to do temp fix. cost me 35 bucks for the hose set coz buy frm workshop not spare part shop coz don't have any where 1 work. so lesson learned the hard way, no matter what, if sumthing wrong, do not attempt to drive the car before u check it out, if really in a hurry just use alternative way edi. driving this kancil has teached me a lot bout cars & i'm loving it more.

I got a few stanley tools. Costly, but very good quality....

ATF nothing to do with your radiator change right? or did you loosen some hoses?

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:37 AM ----------

Fark. NVM LAH.
I WILL JUST FLUSH MY CAR WITH THE CAR ENGINE ON. SIGH

That is why I do not remove because got gasket. If torn need new gasket, so might as well do it without removing the thermostat.....

 

[punk]

used to think what the hell is this type of pliers r used for. but than again most ordinary people r reluctant to spend more than 10 bucks for it though, u say Stanley oso they're breaking sweat on the forehead just to think wether to buy or not from my experience "lah"

---------- Post added at 04:20 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

just wanna share my experience today @ rather yesterday after installing new rad a week ago. ok wake up for work yadayada than start engine, after warm up, put on the gear, than ehh, y not moving, look @ the gear it's L2 so it should move, kinda late, give it another try than ok. at 3rd traffic light, it happened again, after 2nd try the car move but just enuff power to move to road side, if not gonna be stuck there. after few minutes restart car, revving it halfway oso cannot move, pop up the hood & wallah atf all over engine bay, learned the hose to radiator had a big leak edi, luckily nothing major happened & still got 75% atf in car & my precious mini tool box to do temp fix. cost me 35 bucks for the hose set coz buy frm workshop not spare part shop coz don't have any where 1 work. so lesson learned the hard way, no matter what, if sumthing wrong, do not attempt to drive the car before u check it out, if really in a hurry just use alternative way edi. driving this kancil has teached me a lot bout cars & i'm loving it more.

About the tools, yes need to invest good ones.
I wonder if Japanese did manufacture tools or not.

So how bro,top gasket burn la?
Ya, always double check the car before going out to journey.

I also learn the hard way last time when diy for the first time.
Air cond suddenly not cold on the way to tapao rice, when check properly the water temperature shoot up.
Lucky that time already reach journey, and go curi tap water from nearby restaurant without permission and kena shout WOI. i run away that time. :vroam:

 

[vr2turbo]

ha! ha! tap water at least ask lah!......

 

[TitanRev]

About the tools, yes need to invest good ones.
I wonder if Japanese did manufacture tools or not.

So how bro,top gasket burn la?
Ya, always double check the car before going out to journey.

I also learn the hard way last time when diy for the first time.
Air cond suddenly not cold on the way to tapao rice, when check properly the water temperature shoot up.
Lucky that time already reach journey, and go curi tap water from nearby restaurant without permission and kena shout WOI. i run away that time. :vroam:

Got....

I have some small precision diamond file from Tsuboosan and very good wire cutter splicer from Japan A set of Sunflag magnetized tip screwdrivers (MYR26/pc)...very good quality but expensive....My wire cutter cost me MYR35 a piece.

I have some Koken socket drive that I use and extension socket. They mainly produce socket wrench and box sockets..

Then you have OBASE, a company from Osaka they mainly produce pneumatic tools, like impact wrench (tire nut opener), pneumatic ratchet, die grinder and disc grinder..etc..

SKC, they mainly make hand tap and die sets.

Tonichi, they have good torque wrench, I bought 2 of them when I visit Japan...

TONE, a company that made a lot of hands tools and I'm very proud to have a set of combi/open end spanar from this brand. Quite a lot of workshop there use this brand.
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Then you also have VESSEL. They make really good screw drivers and wire stripper.

I also find NEITZ tool not bad...I have a few pliers from them.

 

[stupidcar]

used to think what the hell is this type of pliers r used for. but than again most ordinary people r reluctant to spend more than 10 bucks for it though, u say Stanley oso they're breaking sweat on the forehead just to think wether to buy or not from my experience "lah"

---------- Post added at 04:20 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

just wanna share my experience today @ rather yesterday after installing new rad a week ago. ok wake up for work yadayada than start engine, after warm up, put on the gear, than ehh, y not moving, look @ the gear it's L2 so it should move, kinda late, give it another try than ok. at 3rd traffic light, it happened again, after 2nd try the car move but just enuff power to move to road side, if not gonna be stuck there. after few minutes restart car, revving it halfway oso cannot move, pop up the hood & wallah atf all over engine bay, learned the hose to radiator had a big leak edi, luckily nothing major happened & still got 75% atf in car & my precious mini tool box to do temp fix. cost me 35 bucks for the hose set coz buy frm workshop not spare part shop coz don't have any where 1 work. so lesson learned the hard way, no matter what, if sumthing wrong, do not attempt to drive the car before u check it out, if really in a hurry just use alternative way edi. driving this kancil has teached me a lot bout cars & i'm loving it more.

Kancil got platform to learn about DIY and trial and error

 

[vr2turbo]

Kancil got platform to learn about DIY and trial and error

Not necessary Kancil, all cars also can....

 

[twistedichc]

I got a few stanley tools. Costly, but very good quality....

True it a good brand, but now asian market oso made in PRC & even the Q check is standard, but u know laarr, malaysian mindset, if made in chong kwok (hope the spelling is rite) even branded, the Q is gonna be below standard. summore, if lost headache, cheap 1's if lost nevermind can buy new oso. if i have money i'd buy them too, i've got the measuring tape (can pull longer than cheapo without falling down after sum distance), it's 6 in 1 screwdriver & it's 8" water level.

ATF nothing to do with your radiator change right? or did you loosen some hoses?
Automatic Transmition Fluid (ATF) are connected via hose @ lower part of the radiator below the drainvalve for cooling purpose for my kancil that is. After install the hose, i did not tighten strong enuff so it spills out, consequences, have to crank another 18bucks for it, luckily only uses 25% thats where the balance in the story came from.

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:37 AM ----------

[/COLOR]

 

[vr2turbo]

True it a good brand, but now asian market oso made in PRC & even the Q check is standard, but u know laarr, malaysian mindset, if made in chong kwok (hope the spelling is rite) even branded, the Q is gonna be below standard. summore, if lost headache, cheap 1's if lost nevermind can buy new oso. if i have money i'd buy them too, i've got the measuring tape (can pull longer than cheapo without falling down after sum distance), it's 6 in 1 screwdriver & it's 8" water level.

Automatic Transmition Fluid (ATF) are connected via hose @ lower part of the radiator below the drainvalve for cooling purpose for my kancil that is. After install the hose, i did not tighten strong enuff so it spills out, consequences, have to crank another 18bucks for it, luckily only uses 25% thats where the balance in the story came from.

Yup, my latest adjustable spanner Stanley brand printed on it "Made in Choong Kwok" but still the quality is better then others, but still costly. ...cannot be helped.....hahaha

Oh! okay means when changing the whole radiator atf hose not tighten properly....got it...