Tuning

Carnut

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Hi guys, hope you could help me out.

I have a SMT6 in my N/A Wira tuned during a typical hot Malaysian afternoon. During hot days in the afternoon...the car runs great - engine revs smoothly and car feels torquey and responsive. However i noticed that at night or on rainy days when the temperature is lower, my engine tends to suffer. Engine becomes slightly rough, more reluctant to rev, less torque. The difference in performance is quite apparent.

So my question is:

1) Isn't cool weather or low temperature supposed to help engine performance instead of making it worse?

2) Do i need to have another a/f, ignition map specially for night time / rainy day driving? Most ppl with 2 maps usually tune it for "Economy" and "Performance" driving...instead of "Day" and "Night" driving.

3) Do you guys with piggyback / EMS with just 1 mapping suffer this syndrome too?

4) If I decide to install CAI for my car, then would I need to retune my piggyback? Will CAI make my car run too lean because of the colder air, if I don't retune my piggyback?

5) Will my car performance become worse if i drive up to places like Genting?

6) How do I solve this problem?

Thanks guys.
 
Carnut,
Bro, same as "the blue". Without install this piggyback ( SMT6 ), the stock ecu should able to control "all weather", whether you( the car) in Genting ( alttitude control, due to air pressure reduce, air less dence ) or moring or night ( air cold, more dence ) and day time ( air hot, less dence )

So, please use diag tools to check it out .

Good Luck.
 
Bro, what do you mean by same as "the blue"? Thought when running Open Loop all values will be based on the saved map in my SMT6? In Open Loop, all sensor readings will be ignored... so how can the stock ecu able to control all those things that you mentioned anymore?

The performance difference that I am experiencing is during Open Loop. Hope you can explain more :)
 
Hi all sifu
can i know at ipoh or at Penang have dyno tuning for safc
i heard ipoh have . dunno real or not
if know can let me know

ty
 
pop 6335,
So far, i don't thing so. ( From Ipoh )

Ipoh guy don't have money to go for dyno....he...he..he

and dyno tools is not cheap to invest.

Most of the car is old.

If for road dyno is ok.
 
Carnut,
You quote :
"Bro, what do you mean by same as "the blue"? Thought when running Open Loop all values will be based on the saved map in my SMT6? In Open Loop, all sensor readings will be ignored... so how can the stock ecu able to control all those things that you mentioned anymore?

The performance difference that I am experiencing is during Open Loop. Hope you can explain more :) "

Bro,
You see, you can not do "adv" here. else thread will be deleted.
If can, i aslo put my R & D ecu, PROTECH-II.

Since you ask for it, well "the blue" is E-Management, " the silver" is Utimate. ok.

On normally runing condition, the ecu will run to and fro, mean close loop and open loop dempend on sensors, like throttle sensor,when idel, ( throttle on zero position ), the ecu will swtich to close loop, or you swith on the air-cond, the ecu will try to control AFR 14.7, or when you swith on the head light ( loading ).
Off cause, this also include the air flow sensor or map sensor.

When you doing crusing, your throttle will be say 20 ~ 25 %, since your throttle position not move around ( may be a little bit ), the ecu will switch to close loop and use o2 sensor as a feed back to control AFR 14.7 or ever lower say 16.4
Off cause, this also include the air flow sensor or map sensor.

Most piggyback device will required to tap on some sensor.
Crank or cam input for ignition control, +5 mean, after calculation from stock ecu, or call this ref and add 5 degree, in order to advance more.
and the piggyback also have" ignition in" and "igniton out", in order to mod the signal for advance or retart.

It also need throttle sensor input ,may be map sensor or air flow sensor, so that there can re-map or change the character of the input sensor. ( that mean there are intercept from the input sensor, then "the tune" signal will send back to stock ecu. If this signal or data fail to input to the ecu, all will be mess out, and off cause, engine check light will be on, that is very BAD for stock ecu )

Correct me if i am wrong.( that is why the erase build on top of the pensil..he...he..he)

So, learn wisely.

Good Luck.


It also need to tap on the injector output in order to control the fuel ( also after calculation on stock ecu )
 
Carnut,

Maybe you can try to set all parameters (ign and fuel maps) to zero and see the difference? at what driving conditions did u notice this 'difference'?

Rgds
 
useless,

he quote :
"The performance difference that I am experiencing is during Open Loop."

So, may be on full load or full throttle.

Welcome back, useless.

How is everything ?
 
i have a question , now i am using apexi turbo timer see the A/F to tune my safc .
Before me connect the )2 sensor to my ecu i can see my A/f can go 14.6 14.7 reading

but after me connect with o2 sensor , my a/f is 15 and i have try to my safc to get 14.6 but still cannot get the reading is it ny sensor kong lio ?
 
ecupro,

i am not too good lately, busy and stressed with work...how are u?

i suggested setting everything to zero on the maps is to allow the 'normal' operation of the ecu at open loop. from there we can either decide whether the problem is related to the engine hardware, piggyback maps, sensors, etc.


pop6335,
what engine are u using? where did u tap the lambda signal from? near to ecu or sensor? if open circuit at the lambda sensor circuit, u will be getting zero volts.
 
useless,
You quote :
"I suggested setting everything to zero on the maps is to allow the 'normal' operation of the ecu at open loop. from there we can either decide whether the problem is related to the engine hardware, piggyback maps, sensors, etc."

Good move.

Your turn now...he...he...he

( Just release your pressure, go for holiday, Bro. Good Luck )
 

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