<RM100 engine oil

[vr2turbo]

Too many and all claim to be the best or No.1....so confusing

Well, if you are selling your products, would you say your product is behind others or are No:10.....hahahahaha

 

[stupidcar]

Self claim is no claim.
Self praise is no praise. LOL

 

[6UE5t]

Too many and all claim to be the best or No.1....so confusing

For me, no need to be confused, just stick to trusted well known brands like Mobil, Total, Shell, Castrol, etc2 and follow regular maintenance schedule and you should be fine.

 

[vr2turbo]

Self claim is no claim.
Self praise is no praise. LOL

But that is marketing....

 

[stupidcar]

For me, no need to be confused, just stick to trusted well known brands like Mobil, Total, Shell, Castrol, etc2 and follow regular maintenance schedule and you should be fine.

I'm okay if someone elses uses it before. Just like Bardhal. hahaha.
Sumo quite exp man.

 

[Izso]

Hmm.. My fully syn Pennzoil 5W30 seems to do quite poorly if the car is stuck in slow heavy traffic for more than an hour. Once it's heated to that extent the oil seems to be overly thin and doesn't do any favors for my car. And it's barely 2k km since I last changed.

Dammit.

 

[stupidcar]

Hmm.. My fully syn Pennzoil 5W30 seems to do quite poorly if the car is stuck in slow heavy traffic for more than an hour. Once it's heated to that extent the oil seems to be overly thin and doesn't do any favors for my car. And it's barely 2k km since I last changed.

Dammit.

Butt feel? Or u checked the oil?

 

[Izso]

Butt feel? Or u checked the oil?

It's quite obvious. Butt feel yes but it's a very obvious butt feel.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Hmm.. My fully syn Pennzoil 5W30 seems to do quite poorly if the car is stuck in slow heavy traffic for more than an hour. Once it's heated to that extent the oil seems to be overly thin and doesn't do any favors for my car. And it's barely 2k km since I last changed.

Dammit.

So don't use penzoil? Lol

 

[stupidcar]

Hmm just like Bardhal I guess. Izso, 5w40 next try? Maybe will not become so thin? Haha

 

[cvkit17]

Hmm.. My fully syn Pennzoil 5W30 seems to do quite poorly if the car is stuck in slow heavy traffic for more than an hour. Once it's heated to that extent the oil seems to be overly thin and doesn't do any favors for my car. And it's barely 2k km since I last changed.

Dammit.

Not the hotter it gets, the more viscous it is?

 

[vr2turbo]

Hmm.. My fully syn Pennzoil 5W30 seems to do quite poorly if the car is stuck in slow heavy traffic for more than an hour. Once it's heated to that extent the oil seems to be overly thin and doesn't do any favors for my car. And it's barely 2k km since I last changed.

Dammit.

I tried too, but it was in the VR. Really too thin the 30 weight. Once heat up to operating temperature my valves all starts to chatter. Mine are hydraulics valves, so use one week, drain them out then back to 5w-40. But one oil I really love is their Diesel oil a 15w-40 one. I was suppose to use this as a flush, but my engine became so quiet I use until OCI....
Now on Delphi 5w-50, probably might go back to the diesel oil....haha

---------- Post added at 11:45 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:44 AM ----------

Not the hotter it gets, the more viscous it is?

Hot 30 only mah! Lighter viscosity good for cold start.....

 

[Izso]

So don't use penzoil? Lol

I don't know man. On my other cars they happily working but on mine when stuck in a jam it starts to feel like I'm running water in the engine rather than oil.

Hmm just like Bardhal I guess. Izso, 5w40 next try? Maybe will not become so thin? Haha

Hmm.. I might consider that. But I'm quite scared to do that especially since my engine has had a lot done to it. Don't want it to start leaking all over the place again.

Not the hotter it gets, the more viscous it is?

Doesn't work that way. The oil is at optimum viscosity when at 100 degree Celsius, meaning it's maximum viscosity is 30 weight at 100 degrees C. At that time my meter was telling me the oil was at 98 degrees C so that's close enough to the 100 it's supposed to be at. It didn't feel so good at that temp. I would hate to imagine what it'll do when I go on track and heat up the engine even more. I think I might drain this Pennzoil soon and try something else. I wanna go to that ZTH TTA in Nov!

 

[vr2turbo]

I don't know man. On my other cars they happily working but on mine when stuck in a jam it starts to feel like I'm running water in the engine rather than oil.



Hmm.. I might consider that. But I'm quite scared to do that especially since my engine has had a lot done to it. Don't want it to start leaking all over the place again.



Doesn't work that way. The oil is at optimum viscosity when at 100 degree Celsius, meaning it's maximum viscosity is 30 weight at 100 degrees C. At that time my meter was telling me the oil was at 98 degrees C so that's close enough to the 100 it's supposed to be at. It didn't feel so good at that temp. I would hate to imagine what it'll do when I go on track and heat up the engine even more. I think I might drain this Pennzoil soon and try something else. I wanna go to that ZTH TTA in Nov!

5w-40 is thicker, so why scare leak?

Yah! better test which oil your hero like before your TTA, and that goes for the Blue Advantage also. Better test and see whether it is better then the Bendix semi that you have now. Since for track no issue with cold bite...

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

So choosing an engine oil also is very important if wanna track I suppose. Like later engine heat increase like u guys said. :hmmmm:
Then what's best engine oil recommended for track? TRD? :hmmmm2:

 

[Izso]

5w-40 is thicker, so why scare leak?

Yah! better test which oil your hero like before your TTA, and that goes for the Blue Advantage also. Better test and see whether it is better then the Bendix semi that you have now. Since for track no issue with cold bite...

Higher viscosity won't really work with my car. I've blueprinted, lightened and balanced my internals. My friend calculated or something that I should stick with 30 weight only. More than that and I might risk screwing up how little tolerance my engine internals have and break something.

I just got my rear caliper tool today, so I finally can DIY the install for the Trestors.

So choosing an engine oil also is very important if wanna track I suppose. Like later engine heat increase like u guys said. :hmmmm:
Then what's best engine oil recommended for track? TRD? :hmmmm2:

Well, whatever oil you use it's important you just make sure it's able to take the beating you're gonna give it on track otherwise expect premature break down of the oil and less protection for the engine. I'd use something else other than Toyota oil since Pennzoil OEMs for them. I'm scratching my head on what oil to use. Sigh.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Higher viscosity won't really work with my car. I've blueprinted, lightened and balanced my internals. My friend calculated or something that I should stick with 30 weight only. More than that and I might risk screwing up how little tolerance my engine internals have and break something.

I just got my rear caliper tool today, so I finally can DIY the install for the Trestors.


Well, whatever oil you use it's important you just make sure it's able to take the beating you're gonna give it on track otherwise expect premature break down of the oil and less protection for the engine. I'd use something else other than Toyota oil since Pennzoil OEMs for them. I'm scratching my head on what oil to use. Sigh.

If u have the budget maybe can try chemlube racing. Used once, really not bad. Usually I just use the normal Chemlube fully Syn. After using CL Racing, kinda obsessed. Car is really smooth and responsive. :top:

Cleaning addictive in it is good as well.

 

[vr2turbo]

Higher viscosity won't really work with my car. I've blueprinted, lightened and balanced my internals. My friend calculated or something that I should stick with 30 weight only. More than that and I might risk screwing up how little tolerance my engine internals have and break something.

I just got my rear caliper tool today, so I finally can DIY the install for the Trestors.

Oh! if your hero internals are that tight better maintain 30 weight and probably POA or Ester base oil then....

When DIY your brakes?....

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:26 PM ----------

If u have the budget maybe can try chemlube racing. Used once, really not bad. Usually I just use the normal Chemlube fully Syn. After using CL Racing, kinda obsessed. Car is really smooth and responsive. :top:

Cleaning addictive in it is good as well.

If not mistaken, read some where Racing oil are just use for that race then the oil is changed. Not to be use like normal prolong use for 5k or 10k km....

 

[stupidcar]

Oh! if your hero internals are that tight better maintain 30 weight and probably POA or Ester base oil then....

When DIY your brakes?....

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:26 PM ----------



If not mistaken, read some where Racing oil are just use for that race then the oil is changed. Not to be use like normal prolong use for 5k or 10k km....

Damnnn. A modded 1.5 MIVEC also mau high maintenance okay. Hahaha

KY, ur driving environment very different than Izso's. Wahahahahaha
so your result might turn out differently if its revved til redline most of the time.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Damnnn. A modded 1.5 MIVEC also mau high maintenance okay. Hahaha

KY, ur driving environment very different than Izso's. Wahahahahaha
so your result might turn out differently if its revved til redline most of the time.

Izso, always rev to redline? Then that engine oil is even more suitable.

---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------

Oh! if your hero internals are that tight better maintain 30 weight and probably POA or Ester base oil then....

When DIY your brakes?....

If not mistaken, read some where Racing oil are just use for that race then the oil is changed. Not to be use like normal prolong use for 5k or 10k km....

Hmmm....I guess unless if we were to use it for racing then after that have to change immediately. Daily normal drive shud be fine gua? I only used once before, can say it is a great EO but if it is not recommended for daily drive then I best not use an EO stated for racing.