Plastic Injection Molding Model anyone? :)

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cham2020

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Hi guys, I just realised this thread....
I build models for about a year and i love this hobby very much..
Here are some photos of the models i build...
Let the photos do the talking ok?

Fiat Barchetta







Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII GSR






Nissan Leopard TRX Turbo






Nissan Skyline GTS R33






 
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cham2020

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Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III Fujimi









Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III Hasegawa








Subaru Imprezza Type R WRX











 

cham2020

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Ford Mustang






Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Carisma GT







Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V




 
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cham2020

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Weathered Honda Civic EK4



 

ARTA

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selipejepon said:
arta,
can u please post the closer pic of ur advan rg? is it from fujimi?
Yes bro selipejepon, it's advan RG from fujimi.


And my dear bro cham2020, real nice of you to post up those great photoshoot and i must admit that it's a nice outdoor shoot but...

"Let the photos do the talking ok?"

I sense insult here.. Please be nice to fellow members and respect ok? I proposed this section to TOM so that we fellow members who shares the same interest can discuss about this car modeling and even make new friends. It's good to have so much confidence but please be a humble man.

So please.. mind your manner. I havent been active in ZTH for a year now but i get such thing when i tried to be active again?
 
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cham2020

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dear ARTA bro
i am not insulting anyone...
in my point of view, modeling is a kind of art and what i mean by the line
'let the photos do the talking ' means i let you guys see first the models that i build
and if you guys have any queries you guys can ask me..
i don't mean an insult here
cheers mate ;)
and i am really sorry if i offended you ARTA bro
 

cham2020

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so ARTA
how long have you been modeling?
i majorly build JDM Cars...
but recently i got the fetish for Euro Sports car :P
what about you?
 

ARTA

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bro selipejepon, i forgot to mention, if u wan to opt for any fujimi rim, remember to go for at least 17" and above to make the car look nice. As you can see, wat me and bro JayDM discussed, the rim sizes are off. I don't really have a closer shot of the ADVAN RG but those rims are just RM30plus so we cant really expect much ;) The rims still needs some detailing like for example the lock nuts, wheel cap hole, and like TCII rim that they painted bronze on the whole without the silver middle section. ADVAN RG doesnt look much like the real thing most probably because of it's size and it's much thicker on the 6 spoke (as in depth, not width) Good luck ;)
 

ARTA

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i build my first model when i was 9 years old, BMW Hartge, but it was simply built. Then i got another kit when i was 17. Then i started to get serious when i was 22 for about a year or two until now. I was unwilling to invest in the tools and paints at first but i realize that there's no point for me to build any in the first place if i was never serious so i got the tools and paints slowly and curently have many stacking up. I'm worried that i cant finish the paint when i complete my remaining kit and stop modeling for the time being. I wanted to build JDM car as well especially Hondas as i'm a honda head (except for some GT cars like GTR n Z). I'm an Integra & spoon fan so i made two kits for the integra and planned to make mine into the one that look like the two :) I also especially have an interest in Super GT NSXs and i luv ARTA NSX, i luv ARTA NSX ever since the first time i went to watch JGTC back in 2001, so i've anticipated the ARTA tamiya kits/ or any model toys for long time
 
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cham2020

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arta bro,
i am quite impatient in the past when i started modeling ( now still got a little la ).
i tend to rush. i am using normal tools that can be bught at stationary shops and i am using tamiya enamel colors and can sprays from industrial. and i am implementing 1:1 way of spraying and polishing to my models.

i started with a evo vi tamiya (x2) and screw up cause i rush. my first official kit is daihatsu mira trxx fujimi that is undergoing rebuild... now i am building an integra for my friend.

my personal favourite are evo's cause you can't find them in diecast.. i mean some ^^

modeling is my passion now. i used to colelct diecast
 

ARTA

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Wont the 1:1 paint be too thick for the model? For metallic spray for instance, wont the particles be oversize of scale? How bout panel gaps, lines and fine dimension getting covered by the thick paint? I'm using tamiya's acrylic, enamel and lacquer paint along with the paintbrush. Lacquer is one of the best and is my favourite for body painting. I've got most acrylic colour required for car modeling but not those for modelng military transport like german grey, sea grey ..etc..

Yup i can see you're into evos coz there r lots of them there in the pics :) Anyway, i sumhow got fed up with Fujimi's old kit. I really want and hope to get some off the AUTOARTS line up because of the excellent quaility diecast 1:18 scale.
 
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ARTA

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Currently i'm into building Keroro gunsou model kit and have owned a Destiny gundam and freedom gundam before :)
Keroro is so easy to build coz i dont plan to put on any paint and will look fine enough having to use just the gundam panel lining marker.
 
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cham2020

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yeap
arta
i know they are a bit 'thick' and oversize particles..
but i can't afford tamiya can sprays currently and i am getting an airbrush early next year....
all my models are painted using industrial can sprays...

i am using normal can sprays ( anchor mostly) for body ,seats, and etc
about transparent parts .. i am using enamel tamiya colors
so as to the chrome parts of the lamps etc....
minor detailing are using marker pens...
that's how i do my models lo
i am using tamiya masking tape also ( superb quality and best for models )minor bleeding underneeth..

anway don't you find malaysia car model kits are expensive?
most of my kits are from singapore though
i am a southerner
 

cham2020

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yeap
i am fed up of fujimi kits
you know
evo iii fujimi is based of the evo vi, v and that's why if you compare hasegawa evo iii and fujimi version , fujimi one is out of scale...
and fujimi evo iii, evo v, evo vi, evo vii, evo viii and evo ix all share the same chassis and parts.....
seriously... you can get evo iii spoiler on fujimi evo viii,evo v ,evo vi kits !!!
sharing parts..but it's fun.. you get the dashboard also LOL

tamiya one however.. the details are superb on the chassis..
 

Ak1R4

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To all the Grand Master Modelling Sifoos,

How can i achieve the deep gloss finish on the body?

Thanks in advance...

P/S: will be heading to the mall later to choose my first project (After many many years) :) :)
 

cham2020

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just make sure that after you clear coat ( thick abit nevermind )..
let the paint cure for at least a few days ..best is a few weeks la
then wet sand using 1000, follow by 1500 to 2000 gritt sandpaper
then polish with compound.
i use soft99 polishing and tamiya sandpaper and those found at ames hardware shop...

i usually use 1500 and 2000 cause it's sufficient for me..
 

cham2020

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oh ya
here's another 'model' that i modified from a static coin box given by public bank ages ago





 

ARTA

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Glad to see ppl pouring into this section. Keep it up :)

Sometimes those can conventional spray can dissolve very fine plastics part. Bro cham2020, bleeding can be prevented using clearcoating on the mask lining to seal away the fine capillary. So after it's dried up, you wont get any bleeding, right? :)

Here's a simple way to get a good shine.

Get Tamiya TS spray (believe me, it's worth the money) and white surface primer (for bright colours). Tamiya spray can be warmed in a warm bucket of water not exceeding 50 degree to prevent unwanted bubbles caused by the propellant. One of the factor that cause bubbling on the paint is the low temperature by propellant. Propellant reaction causes bubbles to emerge from the bottom coat and will leave bad porosity in the paint. These bubbles get captured inside when the outer coat dries up faster than the inner coat. So, NEVER go too heavy for the coating, layer by layer slowly and steady does it, or u will defintely spoil the whole body. Trust me, i've been through it once and twice , so i've learnt the valuable lesson.

After preparing the body, spray on the primer. remember, ALWAYS BE VERY LIGHT ON IT. Spray on mist coat, then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes, recoat it further with a light coat , leave for 5-15 minutes and finally SLIGHTLY heavier coat of primer and let it dry for 20-30 minutes ( unsettled primer will shrink causing the TS coat to shrike as well when dry).

Next is TS spray can. Again, for best effect especially bright colours or fluorescent colour, these following steps are CRUCIAL.
Spray on a mist coat, mist mean foggy look, and not one full layer. When the mist has dried up for 3-5 mins, go for a light coat. This light coat shall be let to dry for 5-10 mins (remember keeps warming up the can when u let the paint to dry in between) repeat this light coat until it's even. 2 or 3 light coat is recommended. After these light coats, leave it dry for 20 - 30 minutes (all these are to avoid bubbling, they need times to dry otherwise the outer coat will dry up faster than the inner coat causing bubbles) and FINALLY, a slightly heavier coat to get the shine you need. Leave the body to gas out best for 2,3 weeks - a month. DO NOT TOUCH the paint during gas out or you'll leave prints on it.

Here's a few tips:

1.Let it dry behind a window glass so you get the heat u need but not the dust. this way u dont need to bother it for long time.

2. Brake fluids like dot 3 or 4 can remove tamiya spray can (TS) paint (lacquer) efficiently over a day time.

3. this is for bro cham2020. Two tone colour can be very fun and easy task. Just use the TS spray can for first tone and when it's dry, use tamiya acrylic for 2nd tone. In case it bleed, it can be easily removed as acrylic doesnt bond well with lacquer. and enamel doesnt bond well for acrylic.

So hope all these helps! good luck in your future projects! :)
 

cham2020

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ARTA bro,
i would like to correct one thing.
Tamiya can sprays (TS series) are hard to be strip by brake oil. I am using Castrol Dot 3 Brake oil to remove the paint. Industrial paint come off easily but however on the tamiya colors it refuse to come off 'naturally' and i have to scrap it off.

Yeap, if you notice , Many of my models.. the window panes are done using brush and using tamiya enamel colors. Even though i overdone it, i remove it using tamiya enamel thinner. the best way but howver , i still use masking la...

for me to prevent underbleeding
i usually smoothen the edge and press down the edges. can eliminate most la..but sometimes tend to overlook .
and i really hate it when oversanding... i got it sometimes very minor and i don't give a damn... it's overlook again. well, there's a lesson to learn in every kit right ?
 

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