Plastic Injection Molding Model anyone? :)

Hi there, very nice collection. May I ask where to find kits for JDM integra? Thanks in advance.
 
Hey guys,

Great pics and keep it up! Just wanted to know how and when did you guys paint in the black lining for the doors and boot? Before you spray on body colour or after?

And do you guys know how to avoid the headlights from fogging up after cementing them? It's been a hit or miss affair for me so far, some fogged up and some didnt so I dont really know what I'm doing right or wrong.

It's been a while since I last built a model but this thread has reignited my interest in it. Time to dig out the old airbrush!

Thanks for all the help!
 
bro cham2020, well, my TS paint stripped off perfectly when i dip it in overnite :) maybe i was just.. lucky? :D

Bro almostevo, If u want JDM ITR, the only company i know is FUJIMI, and note that Fujimi only offer 96spec ITR because they are using the same mold for all ITR. The spoon's ITR i got is also of a 96 spec. Note the rear bumper which is of a 96spec and the normal ITR comes with 15" rims and 4 lugs only.

BRoDamnu, depending on which type of paint you use. Apply panel lining after the body paint. Make sure it has dried off before you apply the lining. If u use acrylic paint, then use 1:20 thinned black enamel to run through the lines and clean off the excess paint using enamel thinner. Please refer to the simple paint bonding relativity i mentioned up there :) But enamel should be best for acrylic and lacquer paint.
To avoid lenses fogging up, try to put as little amount of cement possible. The excess cement can spread to unwanted areas and thus fogging them up when it's fitted in or pressed onto. Try to avoid using super glue as it can fog up almost any part and paint especially transparent part for lenses and chrome part for headlight housing.
 
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bro Damnu,
the panel linings are a bit tricky.
I am using two methods.
Most of my models panel lining are done using Pilot Pen. And i draw the line quite thick then i rub off the excess with tissue paper and use a wet cloth to remove the excess.

One more method is tought by a singaporean modeler to me. Using tamiya enamel colors. mixed it with enamel thinner. make sure it is in liquid form. then use a brush and point the brush to the lines and let it along the lines. next rub of the excess ( the place where you point ) with enamel thinner..walah !
you are done..


well, clear parts can be glued using cement as said by arta,besides that you guys can try using white glue. recommended by modeller to me also :)
 
bro cham2020, just curious what this white glue u mentioned is :)

I used to draw the panel lining with the gundam panel line marker i used on my gundam but the thinned black tamiya enamel seems to work better for me. :)

Well, there're many methods available like wat's recommended up there. Just do which you're comfortable of with :) Good luck fellow modellers!
 
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ERHM...
white glue.. it's white in color and we use it in primary school. you can check out those stationary shops...
but it's suitable for small clear parts la..not the big window frames though :P
 
Thanks for the quick response guys. Will give it a try. So i'm presuming that all this is done after the body has been painted? I read somewhere once which recommended using a toothpick to paint in the lines but I gave up after a few tries because the toothpick didnt really transfer much paint onto the gaps.

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it. Cheers!
 
arta
it's not uhu glue
never use uhu glue in models
i screwed up my evo kit because of uhu!

damnu
you are welcome...
yeap
all are done after the body is painted.........
toothpick? never try before as it seems to be impractical to me !
 
arta
it's not uhu glue
never use uhu glue in models
i screwed up my evo kit because of uhu!

damnu
you are welcome...
yeap
all are done after the body is painted.........
toothpick? never try before as it seems to be impractical to me !
 
Haha, I never tried UHU so i don't know wats the effect but i don't wanna try either.


Bro damnu, tooth pick...hard to use , might spoil the paint if not careful.

Just use thinned out enamel method. Let the thinned enamel run down the line and clean the excess off with enamel thinner, easy isn't it?

Warning: Do not use the enamel (thinned with lots of enamel thinner) anywhere near headlight as it will sip into the gap and crack AND fog up the transparent part when it vaporise in the confined space. Trust me, i experience it before making the panel lining.
 
bro almost evo, i tried to reply your PM but you seems to have you inbox full for now :)
 
Just cleared it. Sorry abt that. Didnt know I needed to clear the sent folder as well. Hehe. My bad.
 
yo there..

I went shopping for my project last weekend but I couldn't find what i want!

I am looking for a MR2 SW20 (as i drive one myself, so i tot it would be a good project to start with...)

Anyone know where I can get one?! I know there's an Initial D one out there somewhere...

Hope you guys can help me out...

Thanks
 
Here's pic i found on the net. It's a Fujimi...

oh, and u guys have to check this site..

Got some really good work-in-progress shots... especially this one:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=614296

DSCF0101a.jpg
 
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Ak1R4
come down to jb..i bring you to singapore..tons of kits....
cheap somemore

i seen the rx7 wip sometime ago. that guy is awesome !
 
I've seen a complete RX8 carbon fibre bonnet with clear coating, realistic carbon fibre look :)
 
My ARTA NSX has finally been completed. I'm tired of waiting for the diagonal weave pattern carbon fibre decal so i just use the normal weave i got to complete it. here's it : )


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I love the photoetched catch pins >_
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The effect of enamel thinner vaporisation inside the headlights (clear parts)
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