SDF sifu... what are the advantages of doing ecu mod first?Originally posted by sum-dum-fuk@Aug 5 2004, 09:21 AM
ECU first mod...new way of modding engines these days...
old skool is mod hardware first... ;)
Wah.... nice...save money 1st then i go buy a Standalone ECU... :P cos i don like Air Flow Sensor for VR4...way too big.... <_<Originally posted by sum-dum-fuk@Aug 7 2004, 08:44 AM
daryl..
slotting in da ECU first wud give u much more freedom to tweak various points to suite various mods put in....even in stock form...it wud show improvement...
If u put in a standalone ECU...u cud throw away da MAF sensor and run on MAP...without the MAF, u'd easily gain another 10-15hp... :lol:
MOTEC wide band cost RM5~6K :blink:Originally posted by Danny@Aug 7 2004, 08:49 PM
or, why not purchase a wide band tuner, then tune yourself everytime you upgrade something.
ermm..i think if ECU first, jus do the basic tuning,Originally posted by Joeker@Aug 7 2004, 04:22 PM
On the other hand, when u mod the ECU first, then u have to tune it everytime some new mod is done
If u increase boost, u have to tune the ECU.
If u change bigger turbo, u have to tune it again.
Change bigger intercooler, tune it again.
Change to stainless steel and bigger diameter intercooler pipings, tune it again.
Install bigger exhaust piping or downpipe, again have to tune.
THe way to go about I see it is, mod all the hardware first, then finally tune the ECU. This way, u get the setting rite once and for all.
Mind you that ECU tuning charges is not cheap. A wide band tuning session for a piggyback like the blue screen SAFC cost RM200 :(
I cringe to think on how much the tuning charges for a full stand alone will be.
I heard a reputable tuner charges close to RM1K for stand alone tuning session on dyno. :o
Depends on how much boost you hop-up. Say that your GSR is running standard 0.8 bar and you plan to boost 1 bar. I think you can still get away with stock 390cc/min injectors. If that is the case, you don even need a standalone management in the first case. A piggyback will suffice.if u have ecu den dun need to waste money to buy bigger injectors to have enuf fuel to run the big turbine..but wif ecu oredi,u dun need all these stuff..save money oredi
When the pipings of the intake or exhaust change, so does the flow charatericstics...comes to piping..wen u have ecu u dun need air flow sensor and u can do the piping straight away to the filter
Don exactly understand wat you mean...my opinion ecu tune it to the optimal of mod u want in future if reli can ...den oni put all the mods and sekaligus tune evrythin..but the best way is to buy evrythin remain the car stock den put all in ....
Originally posted by GSR5559@Aug 7 2004, 10:22 PM
I'm afraid that even with a standalone ECU, you will still need the bigger injectors, pumps, fuke rails, coils amps, et. The fundamental purpose of a standalone ECU is that it offers you the ability to alter the settings of the engine.eg: without management u need to buy 10 items to support the 10 items ur modding like big turbine need big injector,big injector need fuel pump..buy filter need air flow sensor and so on..
Thats why I say that its better to mod all the hardware first before doing the software.and one more thing to increase boost i think wuld be best if u finish all the mods ur targetting ..den go for a real tuning..increase the highest boost u want wif the ecu..
If you're not taking it to such extreme level, then the standalone ECU would be an overkill. Might as well go for piggybacks...like big turbine u can use back original injectors and use the original injectors to tune it richer..unless ur car is one monster and need xtra fuel which the oiginal injectors cant gif..else u oni play around wif the ecu after modding it..