DIY Voltage Stabilizer

fff00.

all VS is just connecting in parralel of capacitors to your battery. THats all.
All of the capacitor rating must be more than 16V. (i.e. 16, 25, 35 or above)
ok. so for the values are like this:

for version 3:

5 pcs of 8200uF
1 pc 4700uF
1 pc 1000uF
1 pc 470uF
1 pc 22uF
1pc 10uF
1pc 0.01uF
1pc 0.001uF

just connect everything in parallel.. for more
safety add a fuse too. mine no fuse now.. hahah..
 
Tks fpr the response, do u have any reason behind to have these values?
 
for me, no reason. all VS sold in market also claims to be the best.
but they are using random values as well. you can
indeed custom match the values to a particular car though,
only if u have a digital oscilloscope. it is quite difficult too.
this is because capacitors have a preferred value (2200, 3300
nd no readily available 2985uF). different cars have different
kind of frequency of noise and even one car have a lot due
to response at different rpm. my propose is use all range of values
from low end to high end values.
 
You guys know this device called http://www.gtechpro.com/rr.html right? If not, read it http://www.gtechprosupport.com/support/manuals/RR4.0.pdf

This is a device to detect the G-force during acceleration and is very useful in measuring 0-100km/h, 0-400m time, etc etc.

This device senses the noise in the electrical system (cigarette lighter) to read the engine RPM.

I have one and I used it in developing the C-VOLTZ v2.0 voltage stabilizer.

What we did was to test all the prototypes with the GTECH Pro RR. When the GTECH is able to detech the RPM, the prototype that is being installed on the battery will be rejected. That left us only 1 prototype that failed the GTECH - no noise detected, or noise level too low.

With this proto, we went dyno the car. As you know, the dyno machine also detects the RPM with a clamp on one of the ignition cables to detect the flux. Nope, it failed too. That's the reason why we can't produce a proper dyno chart with the VS.. haha!

During a GTECH test run, we need to induce the noise by switching on the aircon compressor, so basically our test runs with GTECH are with the a/c on.

Well, not cheap though, USD299 excluding freight.
 
Just to add, we tested a few after market brands, expensive and cheap ones.

Conclusion, th eprice does matter.

Generally, cheap ones works fine with the GTECH Pro RR.. which means lower or no noise suppression.
 
But this method of judging the performance of VS is not so good. Furthermore you still unable to prove any VS is good than the other. Even if its good for your car, can you say the same for other car? (Even of the same model?)

If noise not entering the ciggy lighter (or low), it does not mean the noise is not big at ECU or other places. The only way can proof this (whether VS successfully filters the noise) is by viewing it at high frequency digital osc and revving slowly from 1k rpm to 5k rpm for example. Then it will be good VS design. Otherwise, if u want to DIY it, just chuck in any old values and it'll be fine. In your case, using GTECH maybe a good effort than not using anything at all.

There is no point of doing the dyno too. VS basically does nothing to power or torque. It just cleans out the noise in supply. If stock ignition system is badly designed, putting VS might restore power loss (due to stock design caused noise to enter ECU and mess up some signals). But in modern cars, most ignition systems and electrical routing are done quite good. Thus eliminate the need for VS.
 
Furthermore you still unable to prove any VS is good than the other. Even if its good for your car, can you say the same for other car? (Even of the same model?)
Correct. I can only make a conclusion based on the noise filtering ability in my car (and a few other Wiras).

In your case, using GTECH maybe a good effort than not using anything at all.
That's exactly my point. I am just suggesting an alternative for making a suitable VS for your own car. In addition, as you say something is better than NOTHING, the "something" at least worth a credit lor.. Haha!

If stock ignition system is badly designed, putting VS might restore power loss (due to stock design caused noise to enter ECU and mess up some signals).
Agree. But we must not forget that we can still see plenty of cars running around with 80' technology.
 
Last edited:
bullsEYE said:
when i finally read all this... i found out that I CONFUSED....


Why?
Just build it with multiple value cap with 25v & abv, 105deg specs.... then connect all of them parallel. Thats all....

I am in process of doing mine... some hicupps occured.... due to my workmanship.
 
i see certain aftermarket VS hav diod, resistor, fius n IC.. what's d purpose for this IC.. wit DIY no IC.. does it effect it so much...???

This wat makes me confused...
 
n attaching bulb or LED.. i think LED sud do fine.. cause d job is only as an indicator whether it is fully charge or not...

diod attachment, fius.. i think this sud be on first..

CAPS... well, how many???

depends on d dude who's makin' it..

...1 or 2 pieces.. u don't feel it dude..
to many.. wooooooaaaa.. r u trying to make a bomb...

when short curcuit occurs.. acid is allover ur car.. n it's smells GREAT to...
 
which brand are u referring that has IC?
D1 spec IC is for the voltage display....
 
if for display IC, the part is LM3914.. its cheap
u can get it at electronic shop. it is also being
used in Autometer voltage meter and a/f ratio meter.
 
i do not know what part no was that..(IC).. but i believe something got to do wit controlling d electric flow.. sorry no pic..
 
555?

its a timer.. why would need a timer in VS? hmm.....
is there a clock? kekeke...
 

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