DC5 Advice

[sizlo]

subcon,

thanks for the ballpark figure on the rear rotor. I found 1 kedai potong who only would let go both the calipers and rotors altogether at 1200. Still looking though.. The stock rear caliper is by Nisin if i'm not mistaken, (for 700? really?). Even the aftermarket for rear ones cost more or less the same with the fronts and to top it off, it's kinda hard to find a cheap one. Found mugen rotor on the net cost round USD3++. Hmmm will i be taxed buying such item online?

Minivan,

A stupid incident had happen couple of weeks back that someone drove my car without putting the handbrake down!! Stupid right?? And i let him drove by himself...
But anyway since that incident the car has not have a good grip when breaking. I need to push it hard all the way down, then only the car would stop. No more fast driving from me at the moment.

 

[hasukyo]

i too have a braking problem. i even change front and rear rotor and pads brand new.(using ebc yellow and red).

but too bad the result is not satisfying at all, not grip enuf. and i need to pull my handbrake very hard and high only the car can stop on slope...even very2 low angle slope...is it rear brake having problem?need some advice here...

my front caliper still working fine, as i had my mechanice checked.it's really frustrating when u can drive ur car so damn fast but very weak braking..
which is very dangerous.

for rear rotor oem i bought it around 700-800 1 pair.
i heard those 400 one is not original..not sure though.

 

[WAFS]

i too have a braking problem. i even change front and rear rotor and pads brand new.(using ebc yellow and red).

but too bad the result is not satisfying at all, not grip enuf. and i need to pull my handbrake very hard and high only the car can stop on slope...even very2 low angle slope...is it rear brake having problem?need some advice here...

my front caliper still working fine, as i had my mechanice checked.it's really frustrating when u can drive ur car so damn fast but very weak braking..
which is very dangerous.

for rear rotor oem i bought it around 700-800 1 pair.
i heard those 400 one is not original..not sure though.

Have you tried bypass the ABS system. 1st step disconnect the sensor or fuse. If still the same try bypass the abs control unit. This is just a checking process to check whether the ABS system contributes to the problem or not.
And are u using the original brake hose or already change to steel braided?

 

[minivan]

Gotta give my 2 cents on these GAB SS series...
These are fully height adjustable and has 32 hard soft damper settings. For the EP, spring rate is 8 up front and 10 at rear. As bro hafh pointed out the DC5 ones is 10 all round. Maybe it's due to the DC having longer front overhang. The SS are made by D2 and fully imported. The red GABs, HA series and below are locally made. They come with a 1 yr waranty. Servicing is quoted at rm200 a piece, if required. Instalation was pretty straight forward. I them adjusted just a tiny bit lower then stock. Maybe abt 10mm lower the stock.

Nways, I think they're great. Fits the bill for me. Comfortable, still rather decent when pushed in corners and has tremendously reduce NHV on my car. For street these are great, but dunno on track yet la. For daily use, I've decided to stick with the recommened 16 damper setting, which makes them very liavble with for daily use, even better the stock! But still have that bit of sporty feel to it. I've tried up to 30 clicks on the damper and as far as street is concerned they perform really well. They are poised, provide nice feedback, and absorb undulation in corners nicely without throwing u off n giving you some drama. This is why u have to remember that harder is not necessarily better, especially for street. Ofcoz, dunno abt reliabilty la. But fingers cross la n hope to be able to test these on track one day...

 

[hasukyo]

Have you tried bypass the ABS system. 1st step disconnect the sensor or fuse. If still the same try bypass the abs control unit. This is just a checking process to check whether the ABS system contributes to the problem or not.
And are u using the original brake hose or already change to steel braided?

thanks farouk, but i'm not sure where and how to disconnect the ABS sensor, nvr done b4.and yes, i've changed to goodridge steel braided hose.

 

[subcon]

but too bad the result is not satisfying at all, not grip enuf. and i need to pull my handbrake very hard and high only the car can stop on slope...even very2 low angle slope...is it rear brake having problem?need some advice here...

definitely you are facing problem with your handbrake system. i didnt need to put an effort to pull the handbrake lever in order to park at slope angle

 

[WAFS]

thanks farouk, but i'm not sure where and how to disconnect the ABS sensor, nvr done b4.and yes, i've changed to goodridge steel braided hose.

Hv you checked your handbrake cable like subcon suggested...thats the 1st step for the parking brake problem. 2nd is the rear pads but u mentioned that u are using new ones so this is not the problem. About the pads, I'm using EBC yellow as well...for roaduse it doesn't feel that grippy especially in the morning and cold temp but on the track when it's already heated the pads are just marvelous.
I think your problem is on the mechanical side...not the ABS. But you can try check.
The abs sensor is located at the 4 wheels (they attach to your shocks I tried it before coz 1 of my sensor lose) but I think the easiest is to pull out the abs fuse. i haven't done this though.
If you find that the abs control unit is the problem, then you can bypass the system by removing the abs control unit and all the sensors...this will lightened your car slightly but no more abs for you

 

[minivan]

Thats the problem with high performance pads, their operating tempretures are high, hence on cold mornings of under very normal day-to-day road conditions, they don't work as well... theres always a compromise with mods...

 

[dcloo]

Thats the problem with high performance pads, their operating tempretures are high, hence on cold mornings of under very normal day-to-day road conditions, they don't work as well... theres always a compromise with mods...

Just upgrade to hydraulic hand brake will solve all the problem even can FF drift

 

[Dani10]

Need help from all the k-series sifu-sifu here... i just wanna ask about my dc5r... there's leaking of M-oil mybe from the seal o the gasket... so brought my car to this mechanic and he said have to overhauls the engine, wasting money if i just change the seal because if m-oil keep on reducing after a few weeks of servicing tats mean my car lose compression so have to overhauls it..just want to know, is it true?? URgent pls sifu-sifu help me

 

[Vagabond]

Need help from all the k-series sifu-sifu here... i just wanna ask about my dc5r... there's leaking of M-oil mybe from the seal o the gasket... so brought my car to this mechanic and he said have to overhauls the engine, wasting money if i just change the seal because if m-oil keep on reducing after a few weeks of servicing tats mean my car lose compression so have to overhauls it..just want to know, is it true?? URgent pls sifu-sifu help me

well, engine oil can leak at many different places.

apparently, according to honda malaysia, the "Valve Head Cover Seal" is a common culprit, and Honda has ready made repair kits for that, it's around RM200.

also, another possible cause is the oil pan, you might want to check your drain nut area.

however, piston rings may also cause "coking" or "cooking", which burns off engine oil, and loss of compression, so it might be worth doing a compression test to check whether this is the issue.

if the car milege is low, then it might not be the piston rings, so a complete overhaul may not be necessary, as it is both expensive and time consuming.

 

[Dani10]

well, engine oil can leak at many different places.

apparently, according to honda malaysia, the "Valve Head Cover Seal" is a common culprit, and Honda has ready made repair kits for that, it's around RM200.

also, another possible cause is the oil pan, you might want to check your drain nut area.

however, piston rings may also cause "coking" or "cooking", which burns off engine oil, and loss of compression, so it might be worth doing a compression test to check whether this is the issue.

if the car milege is low, then it might not be the piston rings, so a complete overhaul may not be necessary, as it is both expensive and time consuming.

btw my milege now around 127+++ already, abit high... n also wat do u mean by doing a compression test?? how to test it? ;)

 

[Vagabond]

btw my milege now around 127+++ already, abit high... n also wat do u mean by doing a compression test?? how to test it? ;)

well .....it's a bit like sex ........ where's you insert something long and skinny into a dark dark hole

ask an experienced workshop ........... they should be able to do it.

 

[Dani10]

thanx vagabond...i already do the compression test and the here the reading of of it : 210psi, 205psi,210psi,210psi... is it normal??

 

[Vagabond]

yup ..... i think it's well within the regular tolerance levels.

so now , with the process of elimination, you can dismiss the piston rings as the culprit of the engine oil leak.

look at the next likely suspect: valve head cover seal.
get a torch and inspect the valve head cover, and where it connects to the cylinder head. there should be a bit of cement in between those two parts. see if there are any engine oil leaks there, dried or otherwise.

also , the next time you jack up the car, look at the undercarriage. you can check the oil pan for scrapes, in case of poor clearance issues..... and also the oil filter to see if any leaks there.

 

[Vagabond]

Guys!!!!

Anybody seen this DC5 before???

GTG 12 or QTG 12 ???

I saw it along the LDP , in front of Kelana Jaya

Veilside Kit ....
Colour is blackish blue .... or bluish black .....
no spoiler at all ....
spec-c with rear wiper ......

looks very familliar la, reminds me of someone i know's car

 

[Dani10]

yup ..... i think it's well within the regular tolerance levels.

so now , with the process of elimination, you can dismiss the piston rings as the culprit of the engine oil leak.

look at the next likely suspect: valve head cover seal.
get a torch and inspect the valve head cover, and where it connects to the cylinder head. there should be a bit of cement in between those two parts. see if there are any engine oil leaks there, dried or otherwise.

also , the next time you jack up the car, look at the undercarriage. you can check the oil pan for scrapes, in case of poor clearance issues..... and also the oil filter to see if any leaks there.

thanx vagabond, this really help me alot save me from doing the overhaul hehe.... im sure its from the valve head cover seal coz the mechanic check it out already...even got leak through the pulley seal he said. so coming friday gonna change the seal where got leak ;) thanx anyway

 

[prasath_5338]

Guys!!!!

Anybody seen this DC5 before???

GTG 12 or QTG 12 ???

I saw it along the LDP , in front of Kelana Jaya

Veilside Kit ....
Colour is blackish blue .... or bluish black .....
no spoiler at all ....
spec-c with rear wiper ......

looks very familliar la, reminds me of someone i know's car

I have seen it before........looks kinda

 

[boulala]

anybody going to this coming sunday trackday?

 

[Vagabond]

anybody going to this coming sunday trackday?

I may go , since I happen to be quite free this sunday

you going? travelling from where to sepang?