> b16a

koolvibration,
like i asked b4,wat's ur objective 1st?n wat do u do most w ur car?street driving?drag?track?frm my experience,S2 stuff can yield quite high whp BUT only @ a certain peak...similiar 2 JUN's....if ur more interested w torque whc i wud assume ur more interested in a driveability of an engine,1 shud NOT chase 4 a super high whp/torque whc only peaks awhile..always look @ d power/torque graph as a whole..whn does d power comes in n whn does it start 2 taper off?
but thn again,dis is down 2 how good ur mechanic/tuner can set d cams n adjust d AF + ignition 2 match ur set up...having all d hardware but can't get sum1 2 properly set 'em up=wasted....
just like my previous experience w my B16A..i only haf 171whp & 15.8kgm of torque dat time,a fully loaded EG Hatch(yes,full of S2 stuffs),also w 171whp was smacked dead by my car..n i went on 2 kill a S2000 w bolt-ons n also a DC5R w bolt-ons...wat dis "victims" duno is HOW d power is delivered 2 d ground......not bragging here,just sharing my experience n wat i did whn dis big cc fellas look my B16A no up!hahahhahaha
 
akuma....

wow...impressive ur b16a it is.... my 4yrs b16a is 160hp with e-manage, mugen 4-1 header, S2 intake, S2 throttle, hyper single and 2.5" piping. im aiming for dialy driven and trackable (not to say hardcore). just hoping it could satisfy and with stand my rev happy leg....
 
koolvibration,
care 2 tell me ur torque figure n @ wat rpm it peaks?haf u done any leak compression test on ur 4yr old B16A?frm ur hardwares,seems like u do haf alot of goodies but seriously,y wud u need d S2 TB?i assume they r bigger thn B16A's 60mm TB?bigger does not necessarily mean better,especially in d case of a B16A or even d B16B.n i sure hope ur S2 IM is a genuine unit.n personally,i wud stick to a 4-2-1 header in a 1.6....n i certainly agree w ur 2.5" piping..dat's d way any1 shud go on a DOHC VTEC!if ur very worried abt aftermarket high comp pistons,i guess 81.25mm PCT is d way 2 go..but i heard stock is very scarce now n price has shot up too!n if u can afford it,pls use genuine Honda/Japan piston rings instead of d RIK....price differ alot n d RIK doesn't last dat long....n eh,how does it feel like driving daily w d hyper single?r those wat they call klac loceng ar?
 
akuma...

hehe tq 4 ur advice so now i know in figure wht will i get hehe
 
akuma,

i forgot the torque figure and cant remember clearly the graph look like. its been 2 yrs now and the paper dunno sumbat where liao. all i remember is 160.4hp like tat oni. i took the 68mm S2 TB cos that time i was modding a piece of custom CFRP strut bar. the diameter quite big. so oem TB haf to sacrifice. the i saw the S2 fuel rail and was impressed with its material and technology. So i took 3 items all together. TB, IM and FRail. all genuine bought from N1 racing. 1st 1st really felt unusual. S2 racing TB haf light spring load so the throttle pedal very light and sensitive. i oso kena block by PDRM Evo X that day after installation. (chey....tak perasan speeding)

BTW....wats RIK? heheh noob here. i was thinking of supertech pistons as they already got ceramic coating on the skirt and crower rods. but that is later la. get b18cr engine kosong 1st. collect all aftermarket parts the oni do engine blue printing.

My hyper single got no loceng. I heard exedy was the oni one without loceng. But during traffic jam, got scrubbing sound. very sakit hati wan. but the clutch pedal are slightly heavier than normal but not as heavy as 3pucks and sure will bring satisfaction for my driving style. it helps to increase traction. sumore that time using R888. (got addicted to semi slick)
 
68mm TB,eh?well,i duno abt d rest but i was advised against goin 4 any bigger thn 64mm TB(ie:B18CR's) unless i haf sumthg above 200whp....n RIK is a brand....supposedly sum Japanese brand n most mechanics will use dis brand of piston rings 4 Honda engines coz they r relatively cheap n durable for normal street driving.....but if u push d car alot,they won last.trust me....n yes,Supertech pistons is a good choice,n do use their valve seals too...very good stuffs....

n abt klac loceng,not only Ogura's produce d loceng sound,right?
 
akuma....

hmm....since i edi got 68mm TB...i think thats the oni reason i can give myself for upgrading my engine la...(ekekekekeke......)

---------- Post added at 02:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:07 AM ----------

BTW.....i still got another set of exedy....but its a Hyper R....carbon series..... but not planning to use until my engine got healthy 250hp.....heheheh.....u think can do it anot?
 
i've seen a set of d carbon series Exedy clutch but m not sure how much power they'll hold....n ur planning 2 get to 250hp ATC or ATW?if it's ATC,250 is simply too easy nowadays...even w stock 81mm pistons,it's achievable w reliability in d same sentence....but if it's 250whp ur targetting,start choosing wat bigger pistons u plan 2 use n whc engineering shop can do a nice job...btw,just 2 let u know,Darton sleeves r available in M'sia n my sifu do know a shop dat do a wonderful job...price?hehehehe....MANYIAK TINGGI!but u get wat u pay for ler...
cheers
 
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hmm...good that my stock standard b16a serve me well, at least for now
what u guys discuss sounds like a lot $$$$$$$$$$ to me >.<
 
akuma u mean the rm9k block n sleve only kn. i used 2 saw tht block. so nice n sure cn put big2 piston in it hehehe
 
super fei lo,
woi..who say kenot wor?i've a few frens w 85mm slugs running dat sorta whp daily driven on normal RON97 petrol nia...d only time 2 of them went KABOOM was whn 1 gasket burnt n d other liner cracked but 2 engineering mistake....now all ok dy wor?

are_i,
i m not talking abt d block..i m refering 2 d Darton sleeves...they r inserted into ur stock block....pricey..i can't remember exactly how much but they haf proven 2 b very reliable if d job was done properly...

kangyoon20,
wei,play car is like dat 1 lar...n oi!how come my 2nd set of Brembo Max so fast habis 1?
 
[/COLOR]akuma...

of cos hopefully at wheel la. but if not, 230hp oso can la. but not going for 85mm tat big. too close to the coolant wall. will get high temp everytime. the gasket will be like ikan bakar. thinking of b18c block only with 83mm max piston. then oni aim for cams and valve train....
 
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wow.. still querying about B20B.. I thought last time also proven setup already?
Seriously, I'm running out of things to try on with the B-series.

Up to 86mm bore is the maximum, netting you 2.1L.

87 bore currenly running, but banyak issues.. not recommended. This car is running standard radiator, no problem.. timing a bit low for daily driving purpose and for heat management, but no overheating problem non stop driving to KL and back, even though oil mix with water already. (tukil bocor a.k.a 'sleeve sink'. Only changed thermostat and fan switch for 90+ temps. all the way to KL. The car runs about 14+ igntion, and 38-36ish for high load points. no 40+ ignition on high load for this engine. highest I ran for the light load area is 27ish.

Street tune only, since this engine is junked.

One main issue with overreving is cam adjustment.. if done right, won't suffer issues past 9K rpm.
If using B20B crank, must get balanced, unlike B18cr stroker which is already factory balanced.

My personal setup is quite mild, B18cr in B20B block and 85mm pistons (rods and pistons are forged units.) at 11.5 static CR with type r cams. Standard radiator, only 80c fanswitch, standard thermostat. only net 220ish, but hey, it's a daily driver! I only concentrate on getting good low end power at part throttle. no overheating problem pun?

Actually the only ones suffering from heating problems I've encountered are those running 12+ compression with retarded timings. Those can really heat up.

I think the horsepower goal too high considering the fuel used daily..

Unless you guys want to fill up with the RM12/litre 114 ron super gt fuel. 13-14 Static CR also no problem.
 
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what master? I don't know anything about K-series yet.

B16a with ITB is fun.. it's not cheap, but it's fun :)
 
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