shiro i think bertapa in HondaLand miahahahahhahah
I was in Subang lah.. I posted in one of the threads where I was, but nobody called me oso for tt.
(>.
Finally went for minum with non-honda friends.. hahah :P
crower75,
i understand ur point..its just dat i disagree w d HT's statement dat u can't mill whn u plonk in d PCT pistons..dats all...
(i wonder whr's shiro?hehehehhe)
I agree with akuma...
can mill the head, actually, but you need to mill the piston valve reliefs as well. I don't think HT ever said that milling your head is bad, but do it only when it's necessary (a.k.a. warping)
Edit: if the warping isn't so bad to need a mill, there's always the choice of resurfacing, which is like milling, but less material is removed. But for me, it's considered milling as well, since machine shops usually use the same machine for it. Of course, some machine shops have the big machine that can take off chunks at one go, and they use that instead of the resurfacing machine, so maybe I should change my idea of resurfacing=milling.
Anyway, milling is for salvaging a warped head, not to increase compression.. it does that, but it's an el-cheapo way to do it. (Ahem.. must make note of how much 4032 Al forged pistons costs that makes this a viable option, at least in malaysia.. :P)
since milling make the valves sit closer to the pistons, so you make the holes where the valves might touch the piston deeperle if running high lift cams. one example is the one I posted a while back showing K24pistons, which had it's valve reliefs milled for clearance.
But I'm sure KL engine builders also know this one already... just sent it to them and tutup sebelah mata, but if you want to know how it's done, well.. hang around their shoplah/or their regular machine shop.. it's not as if they keep it a trade secret (at least it does seem that way to me..)
I follow JE's recommendation when thinking of valve piston clearance.. forgot the numbers already, they were in inches but you can see them on the piston papers. I think it was somewhere around 3mm for aluminium rods, and about 1mm than that for steel rods. Don't really remember the exact numbers, JE's the biggest clearance number I've seen.. most others are saying 1mm or less!
To simplify it.
More clearance needed for aluminium rods than normal steel rod setups, due to the fact that aluminium rods are more 'stretchable' than steel.
As for the cams being retarded when you get your head milled, well, that's one thing to think about as well, although there were reports that milled heads work pretty fine without their cams 'advanced to compensate/staying retarded?'. But like like akuma says, depends on how much material removed.
Naturally, since your ignition also depends on the cams (note the foot of your distributor goes where?) It would also be affected, but as with anyone who's ever DIY'ed a distributor replacement job, and knows how to use a timing light, this is something that's easy to sort out.
(if you're a honda B series owner that hasn't learnt, now is a good time to start if you're daily driving the car.. I think hattech-V is sifu for distributor replacement, he can take out, disassemble, change coils faster than most people. hhahaha.. ask hattech for this one.. He tells me he can do it very very fast..)
The was a general rule about the cams being retarded by xxx degree per xxxmm removed., I think 3mm-1deg, or was it 1mm-3deg for honda engines? I don't remember at all.. (>.<).. your engine builder would though, or he would have kept notes somewhere on it.