speaking abt tuning an engine 2 obtain 10,000rpm.....wat sorta management would u recommend?coz AFAIK,not all management(b it piggyback or standalone) haf parameters up to 10,000rpm or even more,right?
so far,i only haf experience w VAFC whc i m quite certain doesn't haf parameter for 10,000rpm(so long never play w it dy,gotta start my car n press press abit,hahahaha).....
n i do agree w u abt d B16B being a high revving monster due 2 it's r/s ratio...1 of d best frm factory money can buy......tho i hardly hit my 9400rpm rev cut,dis B16B haf served me well compared 2 my previous B16A.....wch went KABOOM in less thn a year after it's 2nd full rebuild....hahhah...can still feel d pain.....
do share w us ur experiment regarding d cam overlaps..wat cams u plan 2 tune w?
Actually no piggybacks have parameters to tune an engine to obtain 10,000rpm. To do so, first have to find a chip that has mapping up to 10,000 rpm, then use the VAFC to tune/detune the fuelling to get max power. One has to remember that piggyback only 'cheats' the ecu into reading a column lower than it's supposed to, it doesn't even control the injectors directly, that's why it has to have the original ECU, because the injector drivers are driven from the ori ecu. Not sure about newer piggybacks like emanage ultimate and the unichip version ?? (dunno what version now already), but if they can actually control fuelling and ignition directly, why still bother with the ori ecu?
All standalones can push 10,000rpm, heck more than 15,000 is possible.. You can't add the number of boxes in the ECU mapping, but you can push them apart further..
Say, ori hondata got boxes 600,900,1300,2400,3.000, 3400,... until 9,000.rpm
What I'll do is put them based on what the engine likes to get a smooth afr, but spread apart further. so maybe instead of jumping 300-400 rpm per each row, I jump 500-600.. lower rpms don't really require such a fine tuning to get a smooth afr, so I can easily map until 10,000rpm.
As to what management, any standalone will do.. depends on the tuner knowing how to set to 10,000 rpm or not.. some tuners don't dare, because they are afraid the engine will blow, and the owner blames the tuner. That is why I'm particular about who does the assembly, and how much clearances the parts have. you should watch how the japanese build type R engines and you'll understand how careful they are so that they can sell engines revving 9200rpm lasting for YEARs with just an oil change.
Of course, I personally like hondata because it's in english, I only need a laptop and a RM5 USB cable to start tuning. Also because when I feel like it, I can do a video overlay (I think you saw the video last time already, got RPM, Gear, IAT, ECT readout so can see how well you drag/drive)
If powerfc, I have to buy the harness seperately, and get the software (which isn't freely available, even though got the english version).
If AEM EMS, too damn expensive (but I like the system.. more features than people will use, lol)
like hondata, but BETTER! Dual stage injection, four ignition outputs, and many more aux inputs/outputs. Imagine running a B20B with 8 stock 240 injectors running two stages with one coil per cylinder.. that one is really a dream for me.
If FCON V PRO, nihongo ga yomimasu ka. dekimasen desho.. :P
And then when you survey the price, I think your choice will become clear.. hondata dropping price quite a bit already.
As for the cams, will be running standard type R only but with larger overlap.. by how much dunno yet. that I can answer when I clay the engine... my compression is only 11.5. :P can run 95 ron if the prices go crazy.. :P
