Well, it has been ages since I talk about tuning my car. I did ones when my HKS bov kept stalling my car. That was when the car was completely stock with only boost controller, intercooler piping and de-catted. Speed cut was also removed that time.
Over 3 years now, it's time for tuning again after I've changed some engine hardware.
1) FMIC
2) Evo 6 Cams & Valve Springs
3) Evo 7 TD05 Turbo
4) Evo 9 MR Injectors
5) Works Fuel Regulator
6) Walbro Fuel Pump
7) Straight flow N1 exhaust
At first dyno run, I had a shock to see the figures. - 155whp & 241Nm @ 0.8bar. C'mon, it can't be worse than a stock Airtrek. Stock can see around 160-170whp. That is why every engines are different in a way. Engine health is really important.
Soon after investigating further, we found 2 issues.
Petrol! By all means, do not use SHELL petrols. They're horrible. Professional tuners at GT Auto (Thomas) & AC Motorsports Lau said Shell petrols are the worst fuel in the market. In order to prevent it from drying up under hot sun (our climate), they added lotsa addictive making it vaporising slower than other petrol. That also means it has somewhat lowered the Ron. I believed it's somewhere around 93 for the 95 they're selling. I refueled 95 for tuning.
Secondly are the plugs. Mine was really bad and I didn't realize at all. :(
So here are the incremental progress.
1) With some air-fuel adjustment + fuel regulator tweaking, it went up to 180whp.
2) Then replacing the bad plugs. It jumped a shocking 21whp to 201whp! Check your plugs guys.
3) So in a bottle of Octane booster to push it to a true 97 + fine tuning, the final result was 241whp & 332Nm wtq.
That is a 86whp & 91wtq improvement. Much like adding a Vios into my 4G63T.
After all the hard revving during tuning, my fuel hardly went down much as compared to my daily driving. To my surprise, it saves a lot more fuel even after heavy footing it so many times. We dyno-ran my car for 35 times.
I wanted to boost it at 1.5 bar but it max out at only 1.2. This is due to weak actuator. I need an external wastegate I guess. That's the next thing to do. If I am able to reach 1.5 bar, I can easily achieve more than 260whp.
UPDATE
A few things I noticed different.
1) On morning start up, RPM is much lower. I can't drive immediately when engine is cold, it will jerk. After it's warmed up, everything is ok.
2) Water temperature is lower than half mark during morning driving. Usually it will be at half mark after I idled and never comes down again. Once driven, it will lower again. Maybe engine is running much efficient now, hence less heat?
3) During idle, vacuum is -0.15 bar instead of 0.5 bar last time. Not sure if this is normal but fuel is guage is coming down a lot slower now.
UPDATE
Problem 3 resolved. Idle now is -0.5 bar. It was due to leaky vacuum pipe.
Over 3 years now, it's time for tuning again after I've changed some engine hardware.
1) FMIC
2) Evo 6 Cams & Valve Springs
3) Evo 7 TD05 Turbo
4) Evo 9 MR Injectors
5) Works Fuel Regulator
6) Walbro Fuel Pump
7) Straight flow N1 exhaust
At first dyno run, I had a shock to see the figures. - 155whp & 241Nm @ 0.8bar. C'mon, it can't be worse than a stock Airtrek. Stock can see around 160-170whp. That is why every engines are different in a way. Engine health is really important.
Soon after investigating further, we found 2 issues.
Petrol! By all means, do not use SHELL petrols. They're horrible. Professional tuners at GT Auto (Thomas) & AC Motorsports Lau said Shell petrols are the worst fuel in the market. In order to prevent it from drying up under hot sun (our climate), they added lotsa addictive making it vaporising slower than other petrol. That also means it has somewhat lowered the Ron. I believed it's somewhere around 93 for the 95 they're selling. I refueled 95 for tuning.
Secondly are the plugs. Mine was really bad and I didn't realize at all. :(
So here are the incremental progress.
1) With some air-fuel adjustment + fuel regulator tweaking, it went up to 180whp.
2) Then replacing the bad plugs. It jumped a shocking 21whp to 201whp! Check your plugs guys.
3) So in a bottle of Octane booster to push it to a true 97 + fine tuning, the final result was 241whp & 332Nm wtq.
That is a 86whp & 91wtq improvement. Much like adding a Vios into my 4G63T.
After all the hard revving during tuning, my fuel hardly went down much as compared to my daily driving. To my surprise, it saves a lot more fuel even after heavy footing it so many times. We dyno-ran my car for 35 times.
I wanted to boost it at 1.5 bar but it max out at only 1.2. This is due to weak actuator. I need an external wastegate I guess. That's the next thing to do. If I am able to reach 1.5 bar, I can easily achieve more than 260whp.
UPDATE
A few things I noticed different.
1) On morning start up, RPM is much lower. I can't drive immediately when engine is cold, it will jerk. After it's warmed up, everything is ok.
2) Water temperature is lower than half mark during morning driving. Usually it will be at half mark after I idled and never comes down again. Once driven, it will lower again. Maybe engine is running much efficient now, hence less heat?
3) During idle, vacuum is -0.15 bar instead of 0.5 bar last time. Not sure if this is normal but fuel is guage is coming down a lot slower now.
UPDATE
Problem 3 resolved. Idle now is -0.5 bar. It was due to leaky vacuum pipe.
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