help!! my 20v idling problem!!

[levin818]

Wil try,tq Levin 818,by the way,didt u have o2 sensor for bt?

Sorry I don't have it. Now a days it is hard to get a used O2 sensor as most of it will be removed from the H/C in Japan. This is what Mun Lee Auto Parts informed me.

 

[ahaw]

@levin818 : (sorry in advance if out of topics) where is ur shop? need ur help to check my ecu for condition...

*notes ; idle still 400rpm

 

[levin818]

Hi ahaw, please check your PM. Tks!

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:18 AM ----------

E-manage can solve power delivery/smoothness problems due to slight fueling mismatch when convert from SVT to BT ecu(with trumpet)..but i always want to make sure all sensors and actuators are in good condition before proceed to something else.We need to address the root cause 1st.If all things in good condition,then use e-manage to smoothen out all the problems.

check fuel delivery system.clean throttle and ISCv

I fully agree with this! Always solve the problem before plug in any piggy back to fine tune the performance.

---------- Post added at 10:34 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------

Wong,yes you're correct...if your wiring is SVT auto,then it would not have a problem to accept BT auto/manual ecu,also the a/c will not affected because the SVT auto a/c signal to the ecu is same with blacktop auto/manual.

The problem only when converting SVT manual to BT ecu,but so far i've done almost 20 SVT to BT conversions,so far no customer complaint on low idle,for such conversion,it is necessary to use a/c idle up valve.

And also when convert to BT ecu,some may go the 'trumpet' route,hence the low end fueling is greatly affected,a fuel pressure regulator will usually fixed this.Also i will suggest to each customer to fit blacktop O2 sensor for proper running (although most of them didnt bother)..

My A/C amplifier was taken from SVT first gen M/T. It communicates well with all the SVT ecu that i have plug in, regardless which generation, A/T or M/T... Perhaps, your case is coincident, or the wiring that you handle already modded before arrive your hand... :hmmmm:

---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------

I think the caps look different than the earlier svt ecu isnt it Wong...

Those are still from same manufacturer with similar grade. Which mean will have problem after 15 yrs later...

 

[alex_khoo]

ALEX KHOO,
if i'm not mistake, i think ur AFM sensor is faulty. last time i also have found this issue before, after clean ISC, throttle body more than 3 day, the idle problem coming back again. after i tries to buy another chop shop AFM, and tries to adjust the bypass screw at the AFM (chop shop), until now more than half years so far no problem.

bro..i hv try to change AFM unit! result is idling is better than B4 BUT it juz can last for 1 or2 day onli after tat back to worse!! then after tat i try to UNPLUG the FUSE BOX ENGINE CONTROL FUSE(15)and RESET it...after tat my idling was normal againt BUT it will back to worse after FEW HOUR or OVERNITE.... anyone know wat happen!!

 

[feipepe]

hi alex,
how many idle rpm during cold start engine? for my case, i had to tune fico part, angle of distributor as well. did u tried as i mentioned part?

 

[alex_khoo]

hi alex,
how many idle rpm during cold start engine? for my case, i had to tune fico part, angle of distributor as well. did u tried as i mentioned part?

after reset morning start 1200-1500rpm then slowly drop to 900-1000....after drive few hour or overnite start 1000rpm then drop to 400-500rpm then sometime mati engine!! i hv adjust angle of distibutor abit higher but same!! wat is fico part?

 

[feipepe]

brote alex
how about ur check engine light? did have any blink? while u ovenite start the engine, did u have switch on the headlight lamp? or did u have switch on the a/c as well? u try to dun on all the headlight lamp and a/c 1st.
if u drive a few hrs idle rpm drop, suspect ur power supply not so good. or u may try to install one voltage stabizer see condition.
fico meant is idle valve adjust air conditional. it allocate besides the wiper motor at the engine chassis. mainly used to abjust the air conditional.

 

[me2kimi]

Bro alex, how was the problem? Today when I popup my engine hood, take short look at all vacuum hose around charcoal canister. What I found is 2-3 vacuum hose already cracked. I'm gonna replace that soon.
Since your engine is almost about same as mine, why don't you change all the vacuum hose.
Cheap trial and error only.

AFAIK, vacuum hose behind 4 throttle has been changed rite?

 

[beyond]

Good idea on the Vacuum hose change.
Mine also dry and cracked.

Wondering how much to change the whole engine hose to silicon type.

 

[alex_khoo]

Bro alex, how was the problem? Today when I popup my engine hood, take short look at all vacuum hose around charcoal canister. What I found is 2-3 vacuum hose already cracked. I'm gonna replace that soon.
Since your engine is almost about same as mine, why don't you change all the vacuum hose.
Cheap trial and error only.

AFAIK, vacuum hose behind 4 throttle has been changed rite?

tat day i take my car clean 4 throttle( take out piece by piece) by bro LEVIN_818! he oledi check all the vacuum hose where dry and crack ,then change most of it...but after drive 1 or 2 day,the problem came back..

 

[levin818]

Alex, your intake rubber piping's (connected to AFM and surge tank) clip is koyak, and your Open pod filter that mated with AFM doesn't join properly with the rubber piping. You need to sorted out this area otherwise you will always have vacuum leak at the join.

Please also find and put back the missing 4 trumpet (stock).

 

[D7zul]

my SVT idling problem solved..

spray the Carb Cleaner until it chokes the engine and let it run for a minute or two..

i do it a few times & everything OK

 

[alex_khoo]

Alex, your intake rubber piping's (connected to AFM and surge tank) clip is koyak, and your Open pod filter that mated with AFM doesn't join properly with the rubber piping. You need to sorted out this area otherwise you will always have vacuum leak at the join.

Please also find and put back the missing 4 trumpet (stock).

i oledi change the CLIP to new 1 and tape the both rubber piping with( white tape-waterpaip use 1)to make sure it not leaking...
i cant find back 4 trumpet (stock)...it remove oledi few year ago like i say but it not kacau my idling since i take it off

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:13 PM ----------

my SVT idling problem solved..

spray the Carb Cleaner until it chokes the engine and let it run for a minute or two..

i do it a few times & everything OK

spary which area bro zul? AFM meter?

 

[D7zul]

this is what i do..

start engine.. spray from AFM meter.. make sure ur air filter is removed 1st.. u won't wanna get the filter wet..

spray until it chokes.. don't let the engine die.. rev if neccesary & do it a few times..

then i do this.. rev & spray very2 long.. u'll see white smoke coming out of ur exhaust..

and ur done

Gudluck

 

[ahaw]

low/bad idling. what happen, idling stabilize @400-300 rpm. engine @ 248k km clocked. got 1 engine overheat history (due to water pump kaput, kills the knock sensor).

what i do (so far) ; 1) replace breather grommet 2) change igniter from denso iridium to bosch fusion 3) remove, clean and reinstall throttle body (normal clean no dismantle) 4) inspect and clean iscv valve (lots of black stuff) 5) check all vacuum hoses for condition. (did found some bad/crack hoses) 6) do fpr (vacuum @ 40psi) and distributor setting.

Now, the idle still around 300-400, but with better throttle response and pickup (maybe bcos o new igniter plug and tb cleaning). the 1st gear '2-3 seconds lag' still there, ignored.
test diagnose got engine code '24'. air sensor...
During this check, a lot of parts need servicing but i ignored it because the target, to get the desired idle by cleaning the iscv valve only (as suggested). thinking the 02 sensor died already, which i still collecting money to source a new unit. - an amateur diy std. -

Question. is it possible that the bad idle come from improper setting when replacing the TIMING BELT?

p/s: going to try D7zul direct clean method... thinking bout using crc/3m fuel injector cleaner, any suggestion?

 

[D7zul]

once an amateur mechanic overhaul my engine & wrongly set my timing..

my car won't go past 70km/h..

 

[bera]

can i park my problem and how i solved here in your thread... ?? to lazy to open new one...hehehe

for the past few days my car been acting up...
the symptom were
1. rough/high rpm idling
2. massive knocking
3. no vvt feel / engine tone change...

i had some free time so i decided to DIY...i might as well clean my iscv while i'm at it...

this are the basic tools needed...
1. carb cleaner
2. Phillips screwdriver. (normal one also can)
3. pair of pliers
4. replacement air hose (i'm using generic silicon hose 8mm...if you ask me...i'll advice using 6mm)

as a preparation...i highly suggest you remove your airfilter hose from the airbox to the plenum...


locate the iscv outlet which directly connect to inlet manifold...i already remove the clip as seen here...


remove the hose from the metal attachment...i prefer to do this from the top because its easier to do...a lot more working space compared to removing the hose from the iscv unit itself...


now locate the air intake rubber hose which feed air to iscv from your plenum...


here a view from another angle...


detach the rubber hose from the plenum...here i turn the hose slightly upward so that carb cleaning chemical dont spill all over the place...


spray the carb cleaner...i normally let the chemical soak for a while before draining the fluid via detached the rubber hose from the plenum...(repeat until self satisfied)

once satisfied...reinstall everything in reverse order...

use the extra carb cleaner i had left to check for vacuum leak...just spray it at those vacuum hose joints and end...if there is a leak...you'll notice slight drop in engine tone...I've done this test after reassemble the the whole thing above...

please take note...there a big different between fuel line and vacuum...don't ever interchange between those two...


what looks like your ordinary vacuum/air hose...


but upon close inspection... yikes...its already cracked and torn... only the clip holding it in place...this end is connected to the power steering vacuum line...it is sandwiched between the firewall and the underside of air intake plenum...a little bit hard to reach but i still can manage pull out and reinstall new hose without removing the plenum...

this vacuum traces back to the throttle body assembly...you can see in the first pic...i replaced the hose (noticed the blue one)...no wonder my car been acting up...my best guess is that the vacuum leak messed up the whole map sensor reading...hence the problem i listed above...

since changing the hose is practically a straight forward procedure...i wont go into much detail...measure it...cut to fit...and replace the old hose...once done...double check using carb spray method again...and readjust if still got leak...

post mortem result

1. idling now spot on 950 rpm when engine is at operating temperature.
2. iscv function improve (tested as per service manual method)
3. improved and can feel the vvt kick in again... yeaayyy....
4. no more knocking

happy DIY'ing

DISCLAIMER:
this is by no right the right way to do things...and i will not be held responsible if somehow or somewhat you manage to f*&ked up your car/engine/ride by following this/my method...

 

[Mr.Chaser]

As D7zul said:
sharing = caring :top:

 

[alex_khoo]

my car idling problem still not settle!! haizz....bored go here go there workshop change this change tat and problem still there now i juz unplug the ISCV soket to drive(idling abit high 1300-1500rpm) but better than alway die engine

 

[bera]

my car idling problem still not settle!! haizz....bored go here go there workshop change this change tat and problem still there now i juz unplug the ISCV soket to drive(idling abit high 1300-1500rpm) but better than alway die engine

aiyoo...still not solve ehh...this is last year thread...i thought solve already

but before you give up...give it one last look at vacuum hose...

in my case...me myself wouldn't suspect it was as simple as a problematic hose...check everything here and there (like a pro:sarcasm)... took all afternoon... but the lastly find out the culprit is in plain sight...(*&#^@^#*&#

maybe can compare with friend car with similar layout...park side by side...snap couple of pic for reference...then DIY at home...easy and simple to do...relatively cheap also

and by the look of my old vacuum hose...make me worry about my fuel line condition...maybe that also need changing sometime soon... :s: