Newbie VTEC questions

tougevtec

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I am from Penang and a newbie in VTEC and Fuel injection.. (Been driving Carburator cars all the while)

My car is now undergoing transplanting... B16A with LSD Gearbox. My chassis is EG2 (Not sure why but it was etched that to the Car's Body. Originally, it is Carburator and it comes stock with front and rear Anti-roll bars.

I need advise for the following :

- How do I see which version of B16a I am getting ? And What Gearbox it is ?

- What suspension should I get ?
My usage. Daily driving up and down hill roads (Balik Pulau to Bayan Lepas) to get to work and back
Once a while will visit Sepang for Track Day

- ECU.
Which ECU is best for my car ? P30 ?

- VAFC
I heard these can let me tune the ECU like how we DIY tune Carburators... Is it true ?
- And additional question on ECU

Can I borrow friend's ECU (P30), test it in my car.. and then swap back to mine ? Will the swap reset my friend's P30 ?

- Looks modification
How much is the EL Meter panel for EG ? (Those sold in Brothers or Acc Shops.. are they ok?)
Looking for "Angel Eyes" Projected headlights... How much are they cost, and where can I find them ?

- DIY
would like to do DIY on my car.. what do you recommend ?
Grounding ? Cold Air INtake ?

Thank you in advance for all SIFUs who are helping !!
 
eg2 if not mistaken is delsol...
b16a u getting from what hafkat? if ef then small v, if u getting eg hafkat then its big v n come with p30 ecu. vafc is piggyback n u can tune it urself but provided u know what u doing.
for meters, go for the jdm. dunt get those from kedai abang.. imo.
DIY - do something that will make ur car look jdm..

p/s; ur question very long like togey... dun eat too much togey... haha... jk
 
Thanks very much for your answers, hattech-v... Togey, lots of sunlight and water makes it long... hahahah

Yeah weird.. everyone say EG2 is DelSol.. but my car registration says EG2 for my 4 door Civic... :(

B16a is small vtec big DOHC words.. Dunno what ECU

VAFC cannot simply test to tune ? How do we know if the tuning is correct ?

JDM meters.. Do they have nice ones with EL backlights Lights? Crazy for that...
 
EG2=local Kah Motor 1.5carb SR4 Honda Civic year 1992(sum even lasted up til 1993)...d local 1.6EFi=EH2/3/4/5 ler.....
 
the best ecu for P30 ? aiii...P30 is da best la...hahahha...i mean can do remap mah.....
 
tougevtec said:
I need advise for the following :

- How do I see which version of B16a I am getting ? And What Gearbox it is ?

See engine and transmission serial number. They're usually there. Then google it for info.


- What suspension should I get ?
My usage. Daily driving up and down hill roads (Balik Pulau to Bayan Lepas) to get to work and back
Once a while will visit Sepang for Track Day

Something in between.. pillow ball offers better feel, but you won't like driving it everyday (unless you're a glutton for punishment)

Monotubes are best for track but super-$$$$ required, and good camber adjusters aren't cheap too. ARB should be a litte oversized for less bodyroll..

Suspension is subjective.. best you try other people's setup and see how you like them.

- ECU.
Which ECU is best for my car ? P30 ?
For me, the JDM stock ECU is fine, bump up pressure with regulator for a little extra fuelling and you're good to go. You can try advancing stock timing by 1-2 degrees if you find it increases power.

- VAFC
I heard these can let me tune the ECU like how we DIY tune Carburators... Is it true ?
- And additional question on ECU

Can I borrow friend's ECU (P30), test it in my car.. and then swap back to mine ? Will the swap reset my friend's P30 ?

Yes, but it's only modifies the fuelling curve and it really limited in the sense that extreme changes from one point to another is linear, and might result in the in-between points getting leaned out. For mat sallehs, it's a easy way to adjust the idle fuelling for cold and hot weather.. in a sense, tweaking the idle and low rpm fuelling from their actual engiine management system (whatever the make/model)

If running stock engine with only intake, exhaust and possibly a *slightly* more aggresive cam than stock, VAFC is enough for tuning.

The P30 ecu is always reset the moment you unplug it. Doesn't really make much difference, but since every little bit counts, I take out the constant power fuse to the radio to reset the ECU each time I change intake or headers.. The first time I've seen a product that suggest this is the AEM cold air intake...

the VAFC retains it's settings even without power, so can plug and unplug to test different cars.

But for me, testing VAFC unit on another car/engine is a waste of time.. my fuelling curve and another B16A fuelling curve totally different. Mine runs quite well on only -1 to -2 leaning of low rpm for power and fuel economy, but another I tuned required -3, and that's still felt sluggish to me. I only use it to lean out the low rpms for fuel economy and slight power gains. Peak power only can be tuned on the dyno... so don't think you can get peak power by doing on road tuning. Unless your friend's car and your car has similar setup.. I think you might even find the 'tuned' VAFC decreases power.

- Looks modification
How much is the EL Meter panel for EG ? (Those sold in Brothers or Acc Shops.. are they ok?)
Looking for "Angel Eyes" Projected headlights... How much are they cost, and where can I find them ?
EL meter?.. I dunno.. I stay away from accesory shops.. I don't like hacking my wires.. even my previous VAFC is connected with a harness because I hate messing up the stock wiring.

I don't know about the current pricing of angel eyes, but I was quoted 800 for a pair.. after that quote.. straightaway went for the original plastic stanley headlight and cornerlamps. RM800 for look-faster (not go-faster.. ROFL!) parts? no way!!! (for me-lah)

- DIY
would like to do DIY on my car.. what do you recommend ?
Grounding ? Cold Air INtake ?

Grounding is okay.. cold air... erm... I haven't felt any difference between cold air and open pod so far. I'd probably go for a cold air purely for the look factor for a clean engine bay, but otherwise.. I find open pod works just as well.

Try not messing with the original wires.. If you have to, find a good mechanic that does clean work....If not, when you start having electrical problems.. can lose hair from too much head-scratching oh!
 
Last edited:
akuma said:
EG2=local Kah Motor 1.5carb SR4 Honda Civic year 1992(sum even lasted up til 1993)...d local 1.6EFi=EH2/3/4/5 ler.....
ahh... Nice info.. Thank You !!
 
shiroitenshi said:
See engine and transmission serial number. They're usually there. Then google it for info.




Something in between.. pillow ball offers better feel, but you won't like driving it everyday (unless you're a glutton for punishment)

Monotubes are best for track but super-$$$$ required, and good camber adjusters aren't cheap too. ARB should be a litte oversized for less bodyroll..

Suspension is subjective.. best you try other people's setup and see how you like them.


For me, the JDM stock ECU is fine, bump up pressure with regulator for a little extra fuelling and you're good to go. You can try advancing stock timing by 1-2 degrees if you find it increases power.


Yes, but it's only modifies the fuelling curve and it really limited in the sense that extreme changes from one point to another is linear, and might result in the in-between points getting leaned out. For mat sallehs, it's a nice way to adjust the idle fuelling for cold and hot weather.

If running stock engine with only intake, exhaust and possibly a *slightly* more aggresive cam than stock, VAFC is enough for tuning.

The P30 ecu is always reset the moment you unplug it.. the VAFC retains it's settings even without power.

And testing VAFC unit on another is a waste of time.. my fuelling curve and another B16A fuelling curve totally different. I only use it to lean out the low rpms for fuel economy and slight power gains. Peak power only can be tuned on the dyno.


EL meter?.. I dunno.. I stay away from accesory shops.. I don't like hacking my wires.. even my previous VAFC is connected with a harness because I hate messing up the stock wiring.

I don't know about the current pricing, but I was quoted 800 for a pair.. after that quote.. straightaway went for the original plastic stanley headlight and cornerlamps. RM800 for look-fast parts? no way!!! (for me-lah)


Grounding is okay.. cold air... erm... I haven't felt any difference between cold air and open pod so far. I'd probably go for a cold air purely for the look factor for a clean engine bay, but otherwise.. I find open pod works just as well.

Try not messing with the original wires.. If you have to, find a good mechanic that does clean work....If not, when you start having electrical problems.. can lose hair from too much head-scratching oh!

Thank you for such a detailed info.. especially on the Suspensions..
I will try to borrow some a test then.. that's the most economical to do until I find my best setup..
 
welcome to the vtec universe bro..... if u suffer fr hallucinations
after ur engine engaged into vtec 4 da 1st time, dont worry...
coz it happenened 2 most of us here
 

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