NeoCps 4-2-1 or 4-1? Power? FC?

he's one of the experienced sifu.... worth the money well spent. You save more by giving him to be ur purchaser and consultant... worth every money... his name is Faz
 
I see. I e-mailed him already, his price is the lowest I have found so far with good quality work and good feedback from customers.:adore: Can't wait to let him do my car's exhaust after CNY. :driver:
 
after CNY? get it done now so can enjoy the extra torque n hp during the holidays... haha!
cheapest if u go all for cap ayam brand and non s/steel.... of coz u dun mind as those pipes are under the car.... who will see right? Also same as u wear nice nice outside but cheap underwear inside...same concept...heheh....
 
I'm in Perak now. Can only do it after CNY when I go back to KL when Uni starts. Of course stainless steel pipes look nicer but I heard stainless steel is not so lasting as it wears out faster coz it's thinner and the heat insulation properties is lower than steel. Therefore it will cause the engine bay to be hotter. If got budget go for titanium. :biggrin:
 
not lasting wears faster - u heard or rather ur opinion? then u would be flamed by aftermarket tuners who made s/steel exhaust - hehehe

or rather the steel last longer because is thicker but end up rust?

Do u know that the OEM CPS exhaust piping is also made of s/steel, it is not grade SUS 304 but a common grade (cheaper)... and it is good enough already.

Pls... s/steel need not be shining to be named stainless steel....

And why titanium? because it is expensive then it is better?? Hmmm... now I begin to understand why automotive world in Msia is not growing maturely...sigh
 
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can anyone here explain about my problem...previously i installed a performance cat-back exhaust (1 bullet+sflow muffler+around 2.0" piping) with stock extractor...it produce nice bassy sound..but then when i changed to 4-1 hotbits extractor the sound become very loud and rattling(annoying) too..if i change to 4-2-1 extractor, will it solve the noise problem??
 
responsibleroy: most probably your centre bullet doesn't support the higher exhaust flow after you have taken out the catalytic converter (stock extractor). Is your centre bullet stainless steel one? or those will get 'karat' one?

Another way is to change to a better quality centre bullet or try SuperCircuit Exhaust Pro Shop,Sunway to check out their Satria Neo CPS 4-2-1 stainless steel performance extractor or quality stainless steel bullet for Satria Neo.
 
the bullet comes together with the cat back exhaust system...brand Turbo S...the whole cat-back is stainless steel, including the bullet...i can bare if the sound is only loud, but it is also "pecah" when more than 2.5k rpm...i jus want to make the sound deeper, not annoying...should i change the bullet?? or can a 4-2-1 extractor can solve this sound problem??

i've attached the picture of my catback system below
 

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the bullet comes together with the cat back exhaust system...brand Turbo S...the whole cat-back is stainless steel, including the bullet...i can bare if the sound is only loud, but it is also "pecah" when more than 2.5k rpm...i jus want to make the sound deeper, not annoying...should i change the bullet?? or can a 4-2-1 extractor can solve this sound problem??

i've attached the picture of my catback system below

Turbo S exhaust quality is crappy, cheap and no warranty..... beware of those road side exhaust shops claiming the turbo S products to be from superxxx, xxxcircuit with same quality. Beware!
 
Anybody know about ecu remap?It can be done to neo cps already. Can explain and compare with piggyback or stand alone ecu?
 
i already have a look at the SuperStreet catback system...yeah, Turbo S design is exactly the same as SuperStreet...the tip, muffler and bullet are all of same design...piping i dunno, but i think for Turbo S is about 2"..the only different thing is it is written "Turbo S" instead of "SuperStreet"...the shop owner also claimed that Turbo S is a Martech product, with factory in Malacca...right now really hope that by adding/replacing a better bullet will help to solve the sound problem...huhu~ :(
 
Hi Bro..

I wanna make my wira 1.5 auto exhaust to free flow for better pickup & drivability

H performance or superstreet or speedworks .. ???

 
Sorry to mislead, there are other mods involved as well
- underdrive pulley
- iridium plugs
- proper grounding
- open pod with proper heat shield (improved pick up a bit only)
- repositioning the centre bullet (there is a length formula involved both the bullet and position)
- tightened up the stock fuel regulator to have a higher rate (we o not actually need an AFR because at 3.75-4.2 bar, the stock FR can provide already, there is a trick to this)
- PDT (that also made the idling higher than normal, good for me as having under drivepulley)
- CPS activation at 3.6K rpm instead of 4.4K
- 7.5kg 16in Taiwan rims (ori CPS is 9.8kg!)
- replaced CPS rear spoiler to R3 type (less drag)
- replaced entire CPS bodykit to R3 type (fog lamp holes covered)
- replaced with R3 springs
- removed spare tyre, replaced with slim box sub-woofer
- replaced both front seats with Recaro SR3 and Recaro railings (better lower seating positioning)
- Soundproofed & sound dampened entire car
- proper tuning at DynoJet Puchong with very safe margin
- and of course, a few tricks/tips tuner not allowing for public sharing
- cams pulley (standard)
- cams (standard)

And thought you may want to know
- I am not related or any biz related to tuner
- race/high cams are to be done at later stage, coz it's daily driven and concern about requiring to high rev to move car from standstill as powerband is shifted to higher revs
- Campro is not that lousy after all. As regard to those B16 VTEC having similar capacity, their ultimate official figures is approx 180-210hp with lesser torque to our Campro
- That dyno chart was all done at the same machine, same tuner and same RON95 pumped up at the Shell as I entered to the tuner's place
- not so much on the hp/torque figure, overall is the drivability, eager to launch forward, feel good in acceleration, overtaking and coupled with Neo's handling, you get one value hot hatch at a steal
- handling - the alignment geometry, choice of tyres, and choice of rear ARB to suit your way of tackling corners

Oh yes, to proof my pinch of salt, here are the dyno charts...
To those who know me and this ride, this Neo is still slower than you guys... have seen a few doing 185hp NA

Turbocharged ones are quite similar in hp...but way better in torque. Hence, reaching the Vmax sooner and slightly better top speed.... at the expense of more heat, realibility issues and lost of NA rev free enjoyment.

I know how turbo is addictive as I have a TwinTurbo 6sp Supra so pls do not racun me to turbocharge the Neo! Haha!
 

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Sorry to mislead, there are other mods involved as well
- underdrive pulley
- iridium plugs
- proper grounding
- open pod with proper heat shield (improved pick up a bit only)
- repositioning the centre bullet (there is a length formula involved both the bullet and position)
- tightened up the stock fuel regulator to have a higher rate (we o not actually need an AFR because at 3.75-4.2 bar, the stock FR can provide already, there is a trick to this)
- PDT (that also made the idling higher than normal, good for me as having under drivepulley)
- CPS activation at 3.6K rpm instead of 4.4K
- 7.5kg 16in Taiwan rims (ori CPS is 9.8kg!)
- replaced CPS rear spoiler to R3 type (less drag)
- replaced entire CPS bodykit to R3 type (fog lamp holes covered)
- replaced with R3 springs
- removed spare tyre, replaced with slim box sub-woofer
- replaced both front seats with Recaro SR3 and Recaro railings (better lower seating positioning)
- Soundproofed & sound dampened entire car
- proper tuning at DynoJet Puchong with very safe margin
- and of course, a few tricks/tips tuner not allowing for public sharing
- cams pulley (standard)
- cams (standard)

And thought you may want to know
- I am not related or any biz related to tuner
- race/high cams are to be done at later stage, coz it's daily driven and concern about requiring to high rev to move car from standstill as powerband is shifted to higher revs
- Campro is not that lousy after all. As regard to those B16 VTEC having similar capacity, their ultimate official figures is approx 180-210hp with lesser torque to our Campro
- That dyno chart was all done at the same machine, same tuner and same RON95 pumped up at the Shell as I entered to the tuner's place
- not so much on the hp/torque figure, overall is the drivability, eager to launch forward, feel good in acceleration, overtaking and coupled with Neo's handling, you get one value hot hatch at a steal
- handling - the alignment geometry, choice of tyres, and choice of rear ARB to suit your way of tackling corners

Oh yes, to proof my pinch of salt, here are the dyno charts...
To those who know me and this ride, this Neo is still slower than you guys... have seen a few doing 185hp NA

Turbocharged ones are quite similar in hp...but way better in torque. Hence, reaching the Vmax sooner and slightly better top speed.... at the expense of more heat, realibility issues and lost of NA rev free enjoyment.

I know how turbo is addictive as I have a TwinTurbo 6sp Supra so pls do not racun me to turbocharge the Neo! Haha!

It's good to know that my Neo has so much potential. :biggrin:
 
According my workshop told me even with ori R3 cam some car gain hp after install but some is losing power. Seem if play with CPS also required some luck.
 
I better stick to my original plan then. 4-2-1 it is....... Fuel Consuption is very important. If your car drink petrol, you'll wont enjoy driving anymore. Everytime u hit the gas, pocket 1 hole. Haha~ Thannks for the feedback guys. Feel free to give anymore suggestions.

that's why at the traffic lights, it the bikes that do full throttle all day long.

always see those "sports car" with loud exhaust driving slowly on the expressway...
 
- passenger - loose her (or him) as the passenger cost at least 10-15hp burnt! ahahhaha


The search of the pocket rocket continues...

in this case, satria neo is a very good car to start with, cause your friends wouldn't wanna had a ride at the back:thefinger:

---------- Post added at 12:46 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

after CNY? get it done now so can enjoy the extra torque n hp during the holidays... haha!
cheapest if u go all for cap ayam brand and non s/steel.... of coz u dun mind as those pipes are under the car.... who will see right? Also same as u wear nice nice outside but cheap underwear inside...same concept...heheh....

i suppose the stainless steel vs non s/steel would have no different in term of performance, right?
and as long as the header are tune length, even cap ayam non s/steel will work well is it?
 
Yo... the material doesn't make a significant difference in performace. Durability maybe.... but still.... cheap metal also at least will last a few years. So no real issue here.
 

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