NeoCps 4-2-1 or 4-1? Power? FC?
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What you mean is change exhaust and also ECU? How much will that cost roughly? I don't mind if it really gives power. But for now change exhaust first after 2nd service. My car is only about 1 month old now... so ECU maybe later? Whould be really useful if you can suggest any workshop that you go to and trust.
mines998
1,000 RPM
Unichip just a piggyback ecu yr original ecu still in place. For NA cost about 2k for turbo about 2.6k
Mind to elaborate more? Is it like some add-on to my ECU? 2k!!?!??! @@'' Mahal tuu!
wah, rm2k ah.
must as well go for emanage.
must as well go for emanage.
mines998
1,000 RPM
Unichip is quite advance piggyback ecu however it still depend on yr budget! The sole distributor for unichip is Viswork Auto Lab at JB u can give them a call if u want to find out more!
ashyu90
Known Member
e manage can not totally functioninng for campro engine..just can control fuel and ignition...unicip Q+ better then e manage...but haltech interceptor more better then unicip...
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A piggyback rides on top of your OEM ECU. It takes signals/readings from your stock sensors and modifies them to trick your OEM ecu into reading a different value thus altering the car's performance. Be reminded that the parameters setting for piggyback are limited as compare to a full standalone.
Last edited:
mines998
1,000 RPM
It seem getting far from his budget already! Lol!
Ooo ya, forgot emanage not compatible with campro & those with siemens ecu.
emanage no matter how good/bad - not compatible with siemens ecu
I have emanage ultimate but that is on another ride...
unichip Q+ is value for money and it's transferable to other rides should you need to change later... 'investment' can be re-applied to other rides - good point already
furthermore, Q+ can control the CPS activation to suit your map (earlier or later) mine now at 3600rpm to have a strong pull all the way to 7.5k... discuss with ur tuner to have the setup you prefer
RM2k expensive? then try figure out normal mis-conception add-ons that cost almost the same from adj cams pulley, lighter crank pulley, adj fuel regulator, fuel rail, labour, plugs, plug cables, etc .... that does not add much hp.torque at all. cams pulley is shifting the torque band up/down depending on ur preference.
If one is looking at spending RM200 and get 10hp extra... better go buy 4D or some magic potion.... in automotive world, to gain 10hp requires more than RM200.
Pls do not look down on our current engineers on ECU/EMS as they are not stupid too. They are bound by emission rules, regulations that are meant for other parts of the world too. Remember our Neo is also being export to Europe, Australia and S/Africa...
We are just fine tuning to our advantage/preference...more hp & torque at the expense of more aggresive timing, leaner air fuel ratio to match our add-ons like exhaust, better airflow intake.... hope that clears the confusion.
If newbie, then just forget these mods...just go paste some turbo stickers or ralliart or vtec or even LOTUS badge all over the front and rear, big vrooom exhaust and pretend to be driving a powerful car... that way RM200 would be definately enough.
And come to think of it, if it is cheap and all benefits and no disadvantages, wouldn't the original engineers have done it earlier??
Power does not come cheap...
Ego is...
---------- Post added at 12:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:25 PM ----------
Best cheap mod one could buy is :
- remove spare tyre
- remove those extra luggage in boot
- maintain half tank fuel
- replace heavy rims
- have proper air pressure in tyres
- have proper lubricant maintenance
- have you replace your clogged air filter
Most important of all - your driving skills -proper gear ratio @ km/h @ throttle opening/pedal
- unless u r in some drag sprint - in a neo?? forget it
I have emanage ultimate but that is on another ride...
unichip Q+ is value for money and it's transferable to other rides should you need to change later... 'investment' can be re-applied to other rides - good point already
furthermore, Q+ can control the CPS activation to suit your map (earlier or later) mine now at 3600rpm to have a strong pull all the way to 7.5k... discuss with ur tuner to have the setup you prefer
RM2k expensive? then try figure out normal mis-conception add-ons that cost almost the same from adj cams pulley, lighter crank pulley, adj fuel regulator, fuel rail, labour, plugs, plug cables, etc .... that does not add much hp.torque at all. cams pulley is shifting the torque band up/down depending on ur preference.
If one is looking at spending RM200 and get 10hp extra... better go buy 4D or some magic potion.... in automotive world, to gain 10hp requires more than RM200.
Pls do not look down on our current engineers on ECU/EMS as they are not stupid too. They are bound by emission rules, regulations that are meant for other parts of the world too. Remember our Neo is also being export to Europe, Australia and S/Africa...
We are just fine tuning to our advantage/preference...more hp & torque at the expense of more aggresive timing, leaner air fuel ratio to match our add-ons like exhaust, better airflow intake.... hope that clears the confusion.
If newbie, then just forget these mods...just go paste some turbo stickers or ralliart or vtec or even LOTUS badge all over the front and rear, big vrooom exhaust and pretend to be driving a powerful car... that way RM200 would be definately enough.
And come to think of it, if it is cheap and all benefits and no disadvantages, wouldn't the original engineers have done it earlier??
Power does not come cheap...
Ego is...
---------- Post added at 12:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:25 PM ----------
Best cheap mod one could buy is :
- remove spare tyre
- remove those extra luggage in boot
- maintain half tank fuel
- replace heavy rims
- have proper air pressure in tyres
- have proper lubricant maintenance
- have you replace your clogged air filter
Most important of all - your driving skills -proper gear ratio @ km/h @ throttle opening/pedal
- unless u r in some drag sprint - in a neo?? forget it
Wow, you must be really experienced in this. Will consult you when i have the $$ for this kind of mods.
mines998
1,000 RPM
netracer said:
Alamak! my car got many sticker too! Sweat ==!
mines998
1,000 RPM
DanzEterna said:mines, your car already a monster.....
Not yet not yet!
mines998
1,000 RPM
DanzEterna said:i know, but soon the godzilla will be awaken....stay tuned
Ok ok! Let u know once I got the dyno result!
i dont qualified for any consultation lar.... just sharing my experience and god knows how much $$$ spent throughout the years for motoring craze in search for ultimate power, ultimate handling, ultimate crap too...
Pls take my words and filter yourself as what stated had only proven on my ride and a few of my other buddies... no idea whether has it done any damage/ harm to any others who could live to tell - haha
Furthermore, pls do understand that dyno is something like a blood test you take to determine your health (blood contained ingredients - not a proper word, hehe) to determine symptoms and clues to health related diagnosis. Basically, each car even factory produce similar vehicles would have different dyno results due to volume manufacturing, mileage, wear and tear and list of add-ons. Therefore, any related hardware (parts) add-on that have been dyno-ed manufactured may only work towards a certain degree (sales talk) and may not give the same results as claimed.... due to your current car different setup, humidity and mileage. Proper tuning (optimising) is the key to perfect setup and satisfaction
that you may aim for.
Just like a PC, you may have Win7 but with SSD, RAM and diff configuration of registry, performance is definately different even from the same model.
I hope I make myself not being misunderstood.
For me, ultimate handling, performance and safety is priority.
Followed by not overpriced parts vs value
Followed by acceptable risk vs proposed objective
Happy Motoring...
Pls keep this in mind.... power to weight ratio is an important role too. Suspension setting is imminent. Power is nothing without control. Balance is the keyword.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
4-2-1 would be ideal for street (mid-range), 4-1 for high-rev (track - okay, if u treat street as track)
Power - hp at ? rpm is the main concern... high power at high rpm with low torque at low rpm will have you revving high all the time to unleash the power
Power - low down torque at low rpm (turbocharged diesel) will have very fat torque to push you forward from low rpm (will generate the G )
Power - best compromise is to match your gear ratio, leaarn to know where i ur max torque and max hp....
FC - we human are hard to be satisfied...want all out performace and yet want FC like a hybrid... hehe
FC - would be a compromised, u rev more, u burn more petrol bro... it will never be more power and lesser fuel burnt!
---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------
very true - by having a piggyback + proper tuning = improve FC, power & torque across the power band
but... for me... (only applies to value seekers like myself) I would prefer to add few basic proven gadgets that enhance performance which are mainly exhaust systems & better flow intake... to avoid re-tune again which cost more RM and time. The disadvantage is that you do not really know how much the add-ons added because having it done all at the same time. Heck, what I care is the final output results, am not doing any promo for the add-ons right? Haha...
Aim for at least 110hp per 1000kg net weight NA, 160hp per 1000kg for turbo would be a safe margin.
Of coz pls take into account, the handling, aerodynamics and driver too.
Neo is about 1300kg (without spare, remove some extra metal parts covering underneath the dashboard, replaced some bolts with s/steels, cf or fibre front bonnet, recaro seats, no heavy amplifier, no sub woofer, half tank fuel, exercise yourself and loose the heavy girlfriend u bring along...haha) hence u need about 145hp to enjoy the 'performance' level.
Can anyone make neo to be as light as 1000kg, then you will have 165hp per 1000kg!
But without a/c, sound proofing, proper carpeting, perspex windows, no back seats and many cf parts is too extreme for street ride, at least for me...
Note that I use terms like
- exhaust system - means extractor, mid and muffler (must be tuned to match)
- intake system - means free flow filter (Simota/KN/equav), ramp air (using ori intake path), avoid open pod without proper shield (unless dun mind hot air for road use)
- spark plugs - copper are good enough. iridium or platinum only have better sparks and prolong replacement - i opted for this as I do not like adjusting gaps of copper plugs and no, I do use iridium until 80000kms, I changed them at 25000km or sooner when I feel like having RM1xx in my extra pocket...hehe...
- air filter - paper OEM is actually good if not restrictive, but I find KN too expensive and too oily if not done properly. I use SIMOTA equav as I do throw them away after 30-35k km of usage, nothing lasts a life time...esp filters, no debate here.
- fuel filter - change at major service interval - u just dont notice how much clog there is at pumps (does not add any hp)
- coolant - cheap, buy ori, flush them at least every two oil change, no debate here too
- driver - loose weight (telling myself), every 1kg may add 0.05hp to my ride
- passenger - loose her (or him) as the passenger cost at least 10-15hp burnt! ahahhaha
The search of the pocket rocket continues...
Pls take my words and filter yourself as what stated had only proven on my ride and a few of my other buddies... no idea whether has it done any damage/ harm to any others who could live to tell - haha
Furthermore, pls do understand that dyno is something like a blood test you take to determine your health (blood contained ingredients - not a proper word, hehe) to determine symptoms and clues to health related diagnosis. Basically, each car even factory produce similar vehicles would have different dyno results due to volume manufacturing, mileage, wear and tear and list of add-ons. Therefore, any related hardware (parts) add-on that have been dyno-ed manufactured may only work towards a certain degree (sales talk) and may not give the same results as claimed.... due to your current car different setup, humidity and mileage. Proper tuning (optimising) is the key to perfect setup and satisfaction
that you may aim for.
Just like a PC, you may have Win7 but with SSD, RAM and diff configuration of registry, performance is definately different even from the same model.
I hope I make myself not being misunderstood.
For me, ultimate handling, performance and safety is priority.
Followed by not overpriced parts vs value
Followed by acceptable risk vs proposed objective
Happy Motoring...
Pls keep this in mind.... power to weight ratio is an important role too. Suspension setting is imminent. Power is nothing without control. Balance is the keyword.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
4-2-1 would be ideal for street (mid-range), 4-1 for high-rev (track - okay, if u treat street as track)
Power - hp at ? rpm is the main concern... high power at high rpm with low torque at low rpm will have you revving high all the time to unleash the power
Power - low down torque at low rpm (turbocharged diesel) will have very fat torque to push you forward from low rpm (will generate the G )
Power - best compromise is to match your gear ratio, leaarn to know where i ur max torque and max hp....
FC - we human are hard to be satisfied...want all out performace and yet want FC like a hybrid... hehe
FC - would be a compromised, u rev more, u burn more petrol bro... it will never be more power and lesser fuel burnt!
---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------
very true - by having a piggyback + proper tuning = improve FC, power & torque across the power band
but... for me... (only applies to value seekers like myself) I would prefer to add few basic proven gadgets that enhance performance which are mainly exhaust systems & better flow intake... to avoid re-tune again which cost more RM and time. The disadvantage is that you do not really know how much the add-ons added because having it done all at the same time. Heck, what I care is the final output results, am not doing any promo for the add-ons right? Haha...
Aim for at least 110hp per 1000kg net weight NA, 160hp per 1000kg for turbo would be a safe margin.
Of coz pls take into account, the handling, aerodynamics and driver too.
Neo is about 1300kg (without spare, remove some extra metal parts covering underneath the dashboard, replaced some bolts with s/steels, cf or fibre front bonnet, recaro seats, no heavy amplifier, no sub woofer, half tank fuel, exercise yourself and loose the heavy girlfriend u bring along...haha) hence u need about 145hp to enjoy the 'performance' level.
Can anyone make neo to be as light as 1000kg, then you will have 165hp per 1000kg!
But without a/c, sound proofing, proper carpeting, perspex windows, no back seats and many cf parts is too extreme for street ride, at least for me...
Note that I use terms like
- exhaust system - means extractor, mid and muffler (must be tuned to match)
- intake system - means free flow filter (Simota/KN/equav), ramp air (using ori intake path), avoid open pod without proper shield (unless dun mind hot air for road use)
- spark plugs - copper are good enough. iridium or platinum only have better sparks and prolong replacement - i opted for this as I do not like adjusting gaps of copper plugs and no, I do use iridium until 80000kms, I changed them at 25000km or sooner when I feel like having RM1xx in my extra pocket...hehe...
- air filter - paper OEM is actually good if not restrictive, but I find KN too expensive and too oily if not done properly. I use SIMOTA equav as I do throw them away after 30-35k km of usage, nothing lasts a life time...esp filters, no debate here.
- fuel filter - change at major service interval - u just dont notice how much clog there is at pumps (does not add any hp)
- coolant - cheap, buy ori, flush them at least every two oil change, no debate here too
- driver - loose weight (telling myself), every 1kg may add 0.05hp to my ride
- passenger - loose her (or him) as the passenger cost at least 10-15hp burnt! ahahhaha
The search of the pocket rocket continues...
Last edited:
Thanks! Very good info for a newbie like me.
I'm thinking of letting this guy do my exhaust. Dun mind take a look and tell me what u think? [WTS] EXHAUST MODIFICATION FOR CAMPRO/CPS ENGINESSimilar threads
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