jasma n drego imports turbo

Heya bro,

Duty cycle is like the amount of time the injector is open, you might risk the injectors as it will keep opening more then closing

Anyways, on wheel and engine is alot of different bro, if on wheel your engine at least 400hp plus, which you have to mod couple of stuff also, its better if you keep the 350hp on engine instead for durability.

---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------

Bro, 7% is quite low i would say with 1.5 bar boost rite? wont it bee like 95% above? like constantly open?
 
oh ok tq s2h...so u mean 2 say dat max i can go 4 a "reliable" is 18g rite?is dat wat u mean?either dat or i just "mod" my current 16g...

anyway im blur 2 d max about "running 7+% duty cycle" thingy hehehe watever dat means..but yeah..im kinda looking at least 350 either on wheel or engine..btw, wat is 350 on engine equivalent to on wheel??hmmmm...

Change to bigger compressor wheel. An 18G compressor wheel.

A 350HP on engine is like 280WHP-290WHP on Dyno Dynamics.

Heya bro,

Duty cycle is like the amount of time the injector is open, you might risk the injectors as it will keep opening more then closing

Anyways, on wheel and engine is alot of different bro, if on wheel your engine at least 400hp plus, which you have to mod couple of stuff also, its better if you keep the 350hp on engine instead for durability.

---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------

Bro, 7% is quite low i would say with 1.5 bar boost rite? wont it bee like 95% above? like constantly open?

7+% means tujuh puluh lebih.

=.=
 
sory bro,tumpang ur thread to ask those sifus some question, i just wonder a stock e4 4g63 can withstand 1.5bar of boost with proper tuning(fuel,ignition timing,etc)or not,cause i plan to do it, engine all stock except turbo changed to e6 tdo5hr 16g6 10.5T ....... stock ecu been rechipped by mines , fuel and ignition changed.......
 
sory bro,tumpang ur thread to ask those sifus some question, i just wonder a stock e4 4g63 can withstand 1.5bar of boost with proper tuning(fuel,ignition timing,etc)or not,cause i plan to do it, engine all stock except turbo changed to e6 tdo5hr 16g6 10.5T ....... stock ecu been rechipped by mines , fuel and ignition changed.......

Yes... Proper tuning is most essential. It should withstand the induced pressure.

BTW, just out of curiousity. Where do u send ur mine's ship to remap..? Or u're tuning with some other things...?
 
originally from japan halfcut.... lucky maybe lol... and also bro, external waste gate needed to up boost?? can i use my ori header to put external wastegate cause my mech told me that day my manifold cant be use since the 1-2 exhaust out let are seperated with 3-4 outlet before it reach the turbo hotside...
 
originally from japan halfcut.... lucky maybe lol... and also bro, external waste gate needed to up boost?? can i use my ori header to put external wastegate cause my mech told me that day my manifold cant be use since the 1-2 exhaust out let are seperated with 3-4 outlet before it reach the turbo hotside...

Can do 3 way...

1)Tap a pipe from 1-4 and 2-3. Joint them in Y shape and go to wastegate.

2) I would prefer to place the wastegate on the turbo itself. Cut the internal actuator flap. Port the hole bigger to match the wastegate diameter. Then, customize the downpipe flange by separating the exhaust hole and the wastegate hole. U can mount the wastegate at the flange or extend it outside. This is the most stable way compare and reliable method.

3) Add 2 wastegate... Hehe ^^
 
Heya peter, yup with proper tuning it should be fine, but i would suggest not to unless your having evo 5 or 6 engine, because evo 4 engine have tendency to have too much crank free play, and the injectors are still 510cc but with good proper tuning shouldnt be any problem but i would suggest acl race bearings with it for durability with a proper overhaul ;)

Anyways bro where you rechipped? or the ecu had already been tuned by mines? got the e-manage already?

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------

Yup kenny is rite, and your mech is rite, the manifold is seperated by 1-4 and 2-3.

The best way is to get an aftermarket exhaust manifold with wastegate outlet and weld the actuator flapper
 
oh ok bro...so just chnge d compressor wheel rite?mmmm n by chance u know how much dat wld cost?a very close estimate..

350hp/on engine = about 290hp on wheel...hmmmm dat sounds more realistic hehehe..so dats wat i go for...




Change to bigger compressor wheel. An 18G compressor wheel.

A 350HP on engine is like 280WHP-290WHP on Dyno Dynamics.



7+% means tujuh puluh lebih.

=.=
 
ecu ori comes from halfcut japan, hurm.... seems like got many things to do and more need to spend, i need consider 1st since my pocket dry cause of these conversion,somehow i done 4wd also....

---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

i actually like the ori style manifold,cause it fit nicely, if use after market stainless steel, too hot is a big issue since my engine bay is packed,ori heat shield cant be use also..... somemore the stainless steel which not yet got proven it's performance and durability cost me rm800 here... omg
 
ecu ori comes from halfcut japan, hurm.... seems like got many things to do and more need to spend, i need consider 1st since my pocket dry cause of these conversion,somehow i done 4wd also....

On what car..? Lancer CK..?

Cause u need to have a the cable to remap the chip according to ur set up... Cause u dun know what's the mines chip is boosting for, what is the fuel RON number used and etc...

For E4-E6, they use DSMLink, ECUFlash and etc etc to remap the ECU and tune... U can control almost everything... Much better than Emanage or SAFC or whatever piggy if it's handed to the right hand to remap
 
i do something scary, e4 in a wira ab chasis, 4wd with out ayc since the rear axle not fitting my ride, use back e3 rear, running well, i have get the info of my ecu from mines japan through mail, some how they only can tell me that my suggested boost pressure is 1bar, fuel map change,ignition change, speed cut removed, rpm cut increase 200 from stock(i tried and the rpm cut at 8k).... i tried to ask in detail(ignition and fuel maps) but mines refuse it since the tuning are private and confidential ..... ><
 
ecu ori comes from halfcut japan, hurm.... seems like got many things to do and more need to spend, i need consider 1st since my pocket dry cause of these conversion,somehow i done 4wd also....

---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

i actually like the ori style manifold,cause it fit nicely, if use after market stainless steel, too hot is a big issue since my engine bay is packed,ori heat shield cant be use also..... somemore the stainless steel which not yet got proven it's performance and durability cost me rm800 here... omg

Lolz.. Stainless steel manifold are proven to crack issue... Esspecially at the joints... What ppl do to prevent this is by having the inner pipe welded as well. Improved the situation. But not solved.

Cast iron manifold is proven to be durable and reliable.

---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:23 PM ----------

i do something scary, e4 in a wira ab chasis, 4wd with out ayc since the rear axle not fitting my ride, use back e3 rear, running well, i have get the info of my ecu from mines japan through mail, some how they only can tell me that my suggested boost pressure is 1bar, fuel map change,ignition change, speed cut removed, rpm cut increase 200 from stock(i tried and the rpm cut at 8k).... i tried to ask in detail(ignition and fuel maps) but mines refuse it since the tuning are private and confidential ..... >quote]

Since u got no info about the mapping... Have the chip removed and have something tunable... Cause I dun see the point of having something branded that's not tunable...

A remapped Mitsu's ECU can performa as good as Hondata... Almost like a standalone.. Lebih kurang like power fc..
 
i prefer cast iron too, since oem also used it, thus the reliability and durability proven, ignore the weight issue, if i custom make i also might custon cast iron,or using the white steel that use to make exhaust piping,by the way, is it possible to use the way no.1 u mentioned??
 
i prefer cast iron too, since oem also used it, thus the reliability and durability proven, ignore the weight issue, if i custom make i also might custon cast iron,or using the white steel that use to make exhaust piping,by the way, is it possible to use the way no.1 u mentioned??

Can... But looks damn ugly and the exhaust flows anti gravity. And, welding done on the manifold doesn;t seems something nice... The flux of the welding rods inside the manifold cannot be removed... Thus, will come out by itself due to vibration in time... And falls into the turbine wheel... Then turbine wheels rosak....

Since it's a twin scroll, it may not guaranteed to be cheapest.

Like said, method 2.. No drama. Stable boost. Short wastepipe...
 
hurm... lots need to be done.... stay in stock then T.T .... just stay sabar je la when those vtec ,k car turbo and heavy modded (mod in super loud exhaust,flowerish bodykits ,dark tints and suoer loud sound system to cover up their exhaust sound)waja,persona and gen 2 tiong my back.. T.T
 
hurm... lots need to be done.... stay in stock then T.T .... just stay sabar je la when those vtec ,k car turbo and heavy modded (mod in super loud exhaust,flowerish bodykits ,dark tints and suoer loud sound system to cover up their exhaust sound)waja,persona and gen 2 tiong my back.. T.T

It's better to run it on wideband and datalog and see if there's any lean or knock area. If there is, no point having the chip keep if it's not tunable...

I think the definition is same as E1-3. If u can confirm that, u can check out ecmlink to rechip it.
 
i just joking la bro, fuel not lean since it is already too rich after i using racing fuel pump,even without racing fuel pump, black smoke already come when full boosting, engine smooth unless the annoying tappet sound, japan sure got retard the ignition and riching the fuel, somehow it use ron100 , no big big different with 97 right?? i just joking my car lose to those car la, i can easy smoke those car mentioned above except vtec, if stock it is easy, but if moded vtec, need to launch at 5k rpm and let my car jump out then will ok...... lol...... i do admit that vtec is the most successful na engine built by japan motor company...... i plan up boost cause cant feel the strong dragging force like my previous 2wd 4g93T with mivec head, last time when full boost till mivec on, car goes crazy, now bit stable (or maybe slower pick up), 1st gear reach 60++ and 2nd gear reach 100++ feel nothing.... lol

---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:12 AM ----------

here bro,share something with u...c my post:biggrin:..

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/proton/358245-advise-on-satria-neo-cps.html
 
i just joking la bro, fuel not lean since it is already too rich after i using racing fuel pump,even without racing fuel pump, black smoke already come when full boosting, engine smooth unless the annoying tappet sound, japan sure got retard the ignition and riching the fuel, somehow it use ron100 , no big big different with 97 right?? i just joking my car lose to those car la, i can easy smoke those car mentioned above except vtec, if stock it is easy, but if moded vtec, need to launch at 5k rpm and let my car jump out then will ok...... lol...... i do admit that vtec is the most successful na engine built by japan motor company...... i plan up boost cause cant feel the strong dragging force like my previous 2wd 4g93T with mivec head, last time when full boost till mivec on, car goes crazy, now bit stable (or maybe slower pick up), 1st gear reach 60++ and 2nd gear reach 100++ feel nothing.... lol

RON100 and RON97 definitely have alot of difference... Hehe...

Dunno.. some ppl just like to keep something from Japan... But to me, all these items are useless unless it's tuned to the set up... Else, no point keeping.. Just put it in the Showcase for memory... Lolz...

Cause, tuning is the heart of mod... Not about being able to smoke the VTECS or not... But the most important part of modding engine is the tunning... Well, just my piece of advice.. Can ignore if u want to... No harm done.

With proper rechip, u can even convert an EVO ECU to run of MAP sensor... lolz...
 
yup, but i plan to get a standalone like microtech or haltech (sell current ecu or keep as spare,the ecu can be tune i think, but need to send back to mines japan maybe.. T.T dunno how is the cost) to tune and remove the annoying maf, cause everytime i psss and slow gear shift and delay 2 second, feels engine wanna die off already,sometimes it do die off, make me having my first driving exp, start my car when car running at 60km/h ... XD
 
yup, but i plan to get a standalone like microtech or haltech (sell current ecu or keep as spare,the ecu can be tune i think, but need to send back to mines japan maybe.. T.T dunno how is the cost) to tune and remove the annoying maf, cause everytime i psss and slow gear shift and delay 2 second, feels engine wanna die off already,sometimes it do die off, make me having my first driving exp, start my car when car running at 60km/h ... XD

Don't waste time and money on sending it back to Japan... IF the ECU is running on EPROM, wether it's ralliart chip, mine's chip, HKS chip it's still the same EPROM. U think tunning can be done without the engine..??? Hahaa...

Then u there's no need for Wideband... Sorry, just to share... Do some research and u should know rechip and remap need to be done along with the car and datalog...

If u're willing to sacrifice the sound of BOV and have the Bypass valve recirculate into the Air Ramp, there's no hassle of engine surge.

Cheers.
 

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