Increasing the engine performance...

guys what is the best way to increase compress ratio? factory standard is 10.5.1 if mod to higher how high can go? What is need to that higher ratio?
 
guys what is the best way to increase compress ratio? factory standard is 10.5.1 if mod to higher how high can go? What is need to that higher ratio?
skim ur cylinder head
use high compression piston

pros
better throttle response... better torque... improved horsepower output...

cons
prone to knocking/detonation... cannot use ron95 fuel...
 
don't skim the cylinder head too much or many times...

it will cause overheating after skimming...
 
Thinner head gaskets or High-comp pistons... what car do you drive again? Haha sorry weih I wasnt following this thread :biggrin:

He drives a waja i think, btw high comp pistons will cost alot of money & will be disastrous if not properly tuned. eg. my fren's Civic which engine is nuked, comp too high, original crank can't take it, piston shot through crankcase, oil everywhere & left my fren heartbroken the engine was a Type R civic 1.6 head/integra 1.8 block hybrid.
 
He drives a waja i think, btw high comp pistons will cost alot of money & will be disastrous if not properly tuned. eg. my fren's Civic which engine is nuked, comp too high, original crank can't take it, piston shot through crankcase, oil everywhere & left my fren heartbroken the engine was a Type R civic 1.6 head/integra 1.8 block hybrid.

True true... I never said anything bout it being cheap nor easy :biggrin:, he did just ask how anyway haha.

But if you ask me IMO theres no point to change pistons for a daily drive lah, I mean how fast can you pickup in an urban area? Minor mods to me are just nice for daily usage haha :rofl:
 
True true... I never said anything bout it being cheap nor easy :biggrin:, he did just ask how anyway haha.

But if you ask me IMO theres no point to change pistons for a daily drive lah, I mean how fast can you pickup in an urban area? Minor mods to me are just nice for daily usage haha :rofl:

Yeah agree, NA tuning is meant for track. The higher the tune stage the worse to drive on the road. All the power is at the top-end, for normal driving we want low-mid end power. Unless the driver is crazy & go roaring everywhere only shifting at 7,500rpm. I've once tuned my SEG with 20v 4A-GE to almost 200hp (just estimation), with individual airfilter kit for all 4 throttle, high lift 288 cams & pulley, 4-1 not very road legal exhaust, lightened flywheel, forged pistons & cranks, ported head & dual plate clutch & its a nightmare to drive on the road. The engine idles like its out of breath, combine that with a 2 plate clutch its very frustrating to drive in stop & go traffic. The power is all at the top-end i need to rev up above 4,000rpm for any power. After a few months i couldn't stand it & de-tune it to better suit normal driving.
 
Yeah agree, NA tuning is meant for track. The higher the tune stage the worse to drive on the road. All the power is at the top-end, for normal driving we want low-mid end power. Unless the driver is crazy & go roaring everywhere only shifting at 7,500rpm. I've once tuned my SEG with 20v 4A-GE to almost 200hp (just estimation), with individual airfilter kit for all 4 throttle, high lift 288 cams & pulley, 4-1 not very road legal exhaust, lightened flywheel, forged pistons & cranks, ported head & dual plate clutch & its a nightmare to drive on the road. The engine idles like its out of breath, combine that with a 2 plate clutch its very frustrating to drive in stop & go traffic. The power is all at the top-end i need to rev up above 4,000rpm for any power. After a few months i couldn't stand it & de-tune it to better suit normal driving.

Hmm... I see I see, would it be the same with carb's though? Im thinking of running twin weber's on my car at the end of the year or something, haha :rofl:

Oh and welcome to ZTH also :P
 
Hmm... I see I see, would it be the same with carb's though? Im thinking of running twin weber's on my car at the end of the year or something, haha :rofl:

Oh and welcome to ZTH also :P

Thanks, carbs are easier to tune than EFI, if ur going 4 twin weber the biggest improvement you'll feel is throttle response. Unlike EFI which is more flexible as you can map the ECU to ur liking, carbs are fixed, u can only tune them to perform at one specific area. If you focus on top-end with carbs, low rpm performance will be very bad, making it difficult to drive. If u tune carbs for low-end, ur car will run out of breath around halfway across ur rev range. IMO its best to focus on mid-range (3,000-5,000rpm) its where carbs really shine. Might not gain much in terms of max HP, but powerband will be broader & overall better to drive. Mind you twin weber's are quite thirsty, and it works best with twin individual air filter as this will further improve throttle response which is the biggest advantage of carbs.
 
Thanks, carbs are easier to tune than EFI, if ur going 4 twin weber the biggest improvement you'll feel is throttle response. Unlike EFI which is more flexible as you can map the ECU to ur liking, carbs are fixed, u can only tune them to perform at one specific area. If you focus on top-end with carbs, low rpm performance will be very bad, making it difficult to drive. If u tune carbs for low-end, ur car will run out of breath around halfway across ur rev range. IMO its best to focus on mid-range (3,000-5,000rpm) its where carbs really shine. Might not gain much in terms of max HP, but powerband will be broader & overall better to drive. Mind you twin weber's are quite thirsty, and it works best with twin individual air filter as this will further improve throttle response which is the biggest advantage of carbs.

Aite taiko, thanks so much for the info haha. The thirsty part I do know already though... huhu. Theres no such thing as adding power and gaining mileage :driver:
 
weight reducation will provide good power to weight ratio.
engine respond will automatic improve :biggrin:
 
guys want to know normally what cause engine oil pressure drop? how can we prevent this issue drop?
 
xbalance2002:
oil pump worn out or the oil gallery clogged....or maybe the engine oil is dirty...

increasing the oil pressure???...if im not wong just add some washer at the oil pump relief valve...not sure with it...
 
Alot of people know to make more HP is more fuel + more Air = more HP
If say my standard injector is 150cc per cylinderand if i upgrade to 170cc per cylinder what is the benefit i gain? and what i loss?

and for NA setup what type of injector to go? Peak & Hold Fuel Injectors or Saturated Fuel Injectors type.

running on OE ECU and OE fuel pump.
 
Alot of people know to make more HP is more fuel + more Air = more HP
If say my standard injector is 150cc per cylinderand if i upgrade to 170cc per cylinder what is the benefit i gain? and what i loss?

you loss money and hp.

just by adding a bigger injector, you effectively screw up the a/f ratio & lose horsepower.
if you increase fuel, you need more air to compensate. so how're you gonna achieve that?
installing an open pod filter won't do justice.

you need to port & polish the head, install different cams, bigger TB, open pod filter, CAI.
she can breathe better that way.

but the cams would throw off a good car to drive in the city. it'll sound rough and idle like crap. :biggrin:
 
how much it cost to add on turbo kit to the stock 1.6 waja auto...?
how much the increase of power...?
can somebody help me...
 

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