HID Brightness Measure In Lumens

Projector + Reflector Head Lamp

I suspect the reflector part shld be only :

If Purposely Manufactured for HID:
~city light + high beam halogen(only 2 leg filament bulb, instead of 3 leg, bcos now no need dual beam, only single beam) only

If Purposely Manufactured for Halogen:
~city light only


so current usage shld be :

For HID: Normal night driving:
35W (projector's HID low beam) +
5 W (reflector's "small light")
= 40W

For HID: Normal night driving + "Flash":
35W (projector's HID low beam) +
60W (reflector's halogen high beam) +
5 W (reflector's "small light")
= 100W

As the "flashing" only takes a short moment, so shld be ok & wont melt the socket & wire?

For Halogen only: Normal night driving:
55W (projector's halogen low beam) +
5 W (reflector's "small light")
= 60W

For Halogen only: Normal night driving + "Flash":
60W (projector's HID low & high beam together) +
5 W (reflector's "small light")
= 65W

Did u get what i mean? Please correct me if i am wrong. TQ.
 
A far as I am concerned, yes, they produce high wattage but if they are individually handled, then it doesn't melt the wires. Look at it this way, individual wires are connected to individual bulbs. The wires are very capable of 60W. The HID wires are only fed with 35W not a problem. The high beam, 60W, not a problem. You know what I mean? Look at it this way, the Waja for example utilizes 4 H1 halogen 55W Which is like 2 bulbs per headlamp amounting to 110W but so what? Individually they are still 55W each. Hehe.
 
Ohh ic ic ic

But then for wira ori wiring not the case ler. It only meant for single H4 60W bulb.

So if ori is not design that way, not meant for projector HID + reflector Halogen, then have to add wire & relay ler.
 
In the case of Wira, it was meant for 55/60W H4 only. Any additional power consumption would require a relay. HI/LO Xinon set actually solves the problem. On my Suzuki Swift, I do not have additional wiring for highlight as well and I could have opted for the HI/LO set but I didn't. I sticked with dipped Xenons only. So not really a problem with wattage is it?
 
Hi/Low HID

Hi = Halogen
Low = Xenon
a) Is it true when switch to high beam, its actually turn off the low beam & channel d current to high beam?

b) Frequently switching / flashing easily spoil d HID, right?


Hi & Low = Xenon, single HID bulb & single ballast
a) It uses a glider to "glides" the xenon bulb's angle for hi/low beam effect right? also easily spoil the bulb's focus/angle/etc right?


So, thats the reason low beam only HID is better off than the above Hi/Low beam HID, right?

So, if need to have flash/hi beam, its better off to have a separate wiring for a separate halogen, which use in "projector(outer side)+reflector(inner side)" head lamp, right?
 
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Ur Susuki Swift's head lamp is clear lens reflector? or non-clear lens reflector? or clear lens projector(outer side)+reflector(inner side) type?

Wont non-clear lens head lamp causes too much glare? or bcos u got glare shields that done a good job?

Still dunno projector HID can shine on road signs or not, i didn't see any reply from HHH's thread....:/
 
astalavista_baby said:
A lot of people are confused because they are misinformed. A lot of people are using the colour temparature as a marketting gimmick. Now, I'll state it very clearly:

The colour temparature is measured in Kelvin(K)
The brightness is measured in lumens
The intensity is measured in Candela

Now, a lot of mechanics suggest a 8000K HID, claiming that it is brighter. Theoritically, they are trying to get you to think that the higher the K, the brighter the HID. WRONG! Kelvin is used to measure colour temparature, NOT brightness.

The 4300K HID which is used in OEM vehicles is slightly yellowish. The 6000K HID produces a brilliant white colour with a slight stinge of blue. The light produced is brilliant white. The 8000K HID is blueish colour. the 10000K HID is greenish blue and the 12000K HID is purpleish. So bear in mind, KELVIN = COLOUR. The colour temparature also in NO WAY indicates how hot the HID is operating at.

Now, some people might ask, then, which HID is brighter? Research and development has shown that the 4300K produces the best light output which is about 3200 lumens. That is why OEM cars utilize the 4300K HIDs. The 6000K HID produces about 2800 lumens of light. As you can see, all factors remaining constant, the higher the colour temparature, the lower the brightness.

There really is only 2 good HID brands out there, namely, Philips and Osram. Hella and Bosch ballasts are not bad as well. The bulbs are basically by Philips or Osram. Philips is the pioneer of the HID technology. The bulbs are produced with state of the art machine and meant for long durability. Some sellers claim to be selling 8000K Philips HID, but that's a FAKE. For your information, Philips HID is only rated up to 5800K which is marketed as the Philips 6000K Ultinon.

Why is it that they don't produce bulbs with higher Kelvin? It defeats the purpose of HIDs because anything higher would require a blue coat filter to achieve the colour effect. By doing that, brightness will be reduced dramatically and we might as well just stay on with the conventional halogen, as there is not much improvement.

As for people who has a 6000K HID coated with blue coating, they probably bought some cheap HID where the manufacturer does not have the technology to produce proper HIDs. By right, 6000K should still be achievable without coating. I myself am using the 6000K HID which is brilliant white and does not require any blue coating.

Another thing to consider is, get a high quality HID bulb as the blubs retrofitted into your headlights must have the same point as your halogens so that the lights will reflect off the reflectors at the same point as the original halogens. Screw this part up and you will get uneven light distribution which oncoming traffic will then consider as glare.

For those who use the Halogen bulbs with HID looks, a.k.a "blue bulbs". NO, THOSE ARE NOT HID. A lot of people are under the impression that those bulbs are HID. So I am going to say it again, those are just normal halogen bulbs which are just coated blue to filter off the yellow spectrum and thereby giving you the whitish blueish effect. Yes, you might get the looks but definitely not the brightness and the intensity.

I hope this post of mine here will help many of you out there in answering you questions and clearing your doubts. I love HID, and I am never going back to halogens. :D Some people might say HID is blinding. The fact is they don't know the benefits of HID and also their perception came from those who were irresponsible enough to not adjust their headlamps to ensure the beam shines the road and NOT oncoming traffic. The same goes to those halogen users who changed their bulbs but screwed up the reflected beam.

Those who have yet to adjust their headlamps, please go out, lower yourself to a seating level and look at your headlights. If you think they are a sore to your eyes, do humanity a favour, please readjust your headlamps. Thank you very much and cheers! :)

so this thing are fake?
 
hey bro, if u still can see the usual filament in the bulb, then it just normal halogen bulb ler, somemore HID bulb looks very different from halogen bulb. Also look at the wattage as stated on the bulb ler: Halogen 55/60W vs HID Xenon bulb 35W. Then HID also come with 35W ballast.....

Beware of those lighting power booster, which also come in package like HID package, also got 2 ballast+wiring harness+socket+blue bulb(some dont have). These booster's ballast consumed 60W & runs on halogen bulb only. Its not as bright as HID, still with a big margin to catch up.

Just my 2 cents.
 
siangmh said:
hey bro, if u still can see the usual filament in the bulb, then it just normal halogen bulb ler, somemore HID bulb looks very different from halogen bulb. Also look at the wattage as stated on the bulb ler: Halogen 55/60W vs HID Xenon bulb 35W. Then HID also come with 35W ballast.....

Beware of those lighting power booster, which also come in package like HID package, also got 2 ballast+wiring harness+socket+blue bulb(some dont have). These booster's ballast consumed 60W & runs on halogen bulb only. Its not as bright as HID, still with a big margin to catch up.

Just my 2 cents.

so for wira if i change HID xenon bulb 35w, need or no need to change the ballast? sorry just need to ask noob question here....
 
Have u ever installed a whole set of HID (2 Xenon bulbs, 2 ballast, wiring harness etc all in 1 set) conversion kit for your wira?

If you have not install the whole set before, then buying the xenon bulb alone won't work, buying xenon bulb + ballast also wont help. Because u still need other components (eg wiring harness) to make up a whole complete HID conversion kit.

If you just buy the Xenon bulb alone but dont have the remaining components, it wont work & cant be install one.

I suspect u buy the blue bulb alone instead of a real HID kit, right?
 
didn't buy anything yet. planning to do later.... so do some survey first... avoid 'kena sembelih' or doing the wrong thing...
 
ic ic, very careful ya, good thing :>

U plan to upgrade ur lighting is it?

Got 1 zth seller in The Market Place selling wira projector headlamp for rm660, can use that to combo with HID, u can check it out. Kedai Abang selling rm780.
 
siangmh said:
Ur Susuki Swift's head lamp is clear lens reflector? or non-clear lens reflector? or clear lens projector(outer side)+reflector(inner side) type?

Wont non-clear lens head lamp causes too much glare? or bcos u got glare shields that done a good job?

Still dunno projector HID can shine on road signs or not, i didn't see any reply from HHH's thread....:/

Mine is clear lense. Well, it doesn't exactly produce glare. Like I have said, when seen from the back mirror, it's perfect. No glare, just very nice intense light. I have never tried looking at it from an oncoming traffic point of view so I don't really know but I'd say there is still slight glare but very minimal and yes, I do have glare shields. Original front glare shields and also the bottom shields.

Logically it should. The point is that it curves higher up on one side and then flatten out so that it shines further on the side with no oncoming traffic to give you a further shine. Whether or not you can see the road signs is not really a problem since they are mostly lit up.Signs in rural areas are normally short and is within the area where the light shines. :)
 
broken sword said:
so this thing are fake?

Yes. Well, not exactly fake. It's meant to be a replacement for your current halogens so that it produces white light output for cosmetic purposes.

It's very easy to distinguish halogens and Xenons. First, the technology used is completely different. Take your normal halogens for instance, you should be able to see a filament running across from a rod to another. This is essentially how the halogen bulb operates. It sends electrical current flowing from a rod to another thereby heating up the filament to the extend that it produces light. The gas is there to help reduce evaporation of the filament and thereby prolonging the lifespan of the bulb.

Xenons on the other hand utilize the gas to produce lights. What happens is the ballast will send a current surge to a rod and it causes a spark with another rod. This spark will then excite the Xenon gas in the bulb to release photons, thereby producing light, brilliant white light due to the nature of the gas.

Essentially, if you get a bulb which is blue coated and looks and shapes the same as your original, you can be sure it's a normal halogen which produces cosmetic white light. Further checks on whether the internals are the same as the originals will confirm your suspicions. These are usually direct plug and play into your current headlights. Meaning, you take off the original bulbs, plug the new ones in and walla.

Xenons on the other hand comes as a complete set. 2 Xenon bulbs, 2 ballasts, wiring harness, relays(depending on your HID kit). These are also considered plug and play kits but its not a matter of changing bulbs. Xenon bulbs are normally long in length. The internals do not contain filaments and there is normally an internal globe in the blub which contains the Xenon gas. When you switch on the Xenons, the way it starts up is substantially different from that of the halogens.

Well, I hope this enlightens you a little. :)
 
wow... thanx bro... this really help. i just needed confirmation becoz there so many bulps in the acc. shop.... claim they are xenon.... thanx again for clearing things up
 
broken sword said:
wow... thanx bro... this really help. i just needed confirmation becoz there so many bulps in the acc. shop.... claim they are xenon.... thanx again for clearing things up

Not a problem mate. Another difference would be in the price. A Xenon kit would typically cost you anything above RM500 where as blue coated halogens would cost you anything from RM50-RM400 depending on the brand. :)
 
siangmh said:
Damn good explanation! Couldn't be better! Bravo! :>

:regular_smile: aGREEEEEEDDDD.... now this is how a forum should be.. SALUTE to u guys.. :emoticon_U:
 
Well, if you read from the beginning of this thread, you'd notice there are a lot of FAQs being answered. This is just a basic explanation. If you read from the beginning, you'd learn a lot more. hehe.
 
astalavista_baby said:
Well, if you read from the beginning of this thread, you'd notice there are a lot of FAQs being answered. This is just a basic explanation. If you read from the beginning, you'd learn a lot more. hehe.

done that....
 

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