Engine Kaboommmm... A question to answer...

i do n i still do, its quite in the grey area which either ppl tight-lipped or dunno.....one mistake is all it takes to buy new engine :emoticon_U:

shiroitenshi said:
Don't be confused with AFR.. I used to be. A certain AFR, like .80 in lambda scale may be lean for one engine, and just right for another. So, there isn't an accurate AFR number. It depends on how well your engine flows at different RPMs.

AFR for different engines is different. For example, I had the opportunity to see two B20B with unichip getting tuned. At 3000rpm, both cars have different AFR, although both are built with the same specs (Type R head with B20B block), except for certain things, like different mufflers, different intakes, different plug cables, etc.

There is no 'magic' number for AFR, the only magic number is 1.0 (or something close) when idle.

The right AFR is when it generates the the right horsepower at certain RPM without bogging/overheating the engine. A lot of factors goes into it after that, and it's a bit too lengthy to explain, and there are many gray areas I'm still learning about.

AFR from different places along the exhaust pipes have different readings. That's why you have the 'calibrate' button on most AFR meters (e.g. Innovate's, or Motec, that calibrates on startup)
 
mie, i want that broken block can ar?

wat did the mechanic say about this matter?
 
mie...over rev until what rpm? in my opinion, if rev until 9krpm actually still no problem even with brand new piston ring....i mean P73 piston with standard
81mm ring, not oversize one...
if rebore + new piston + ring is different story la...
 
cian nyer...keta sapa nih.....iskh iskh ni sure pasang NOS+supercharger+turbocharger=kabooommmmm.........terlalu laju sgt...beli enjin lain la brader.....cool
 
I know who's car... I know who's car... yea yea...

later it will be hattech's car pulak... coz he's goin to convert again...

from B16B to B18C5... miahahahahahahahahaha...

p/s: i told the owner to hantam revvv kaw kaw... but he said.. no... baru pasang... mau run in dulu... haiya... no c what happen... blom sempat praannngggg dah kabooommmmmm....

jgn mare bang yer...

miahahahahhahaha...
 
tahu what? hehe...
if only when u can do rechip for my obd2 ecu.. then will consider next step..
i need more than piggyback to handle 12:1 compression + some extra bonus.... hehe
 
wallaauuuweeeehhhh..........

so sorry for the owner...

how's the air & fuel ratio when dis thing happened ? Did the owner do a rechip before it went kaboom ?
 
the same chipsmore that he used for the previous b16a (now using it back haha) has a very2 good air fuel ratio i've ever seen...
this afr reading take place after he change back to b16a and done on dyno...
 
hattech-v said:
tahu what? hehe...
if only when u can do rechip for my obd2 ecu.. then will consider next step..
i need more than piggyback to handle 12:1 compression + some extra bonus.... hehe

No interest at the moment to do OBD2 reprogramming. The cost is too high, hence a high price to charge customer too.... If the price is equal to a standalone unit, which do you prefer? Of course you'll pick standalone.... more glamourous than using the standard ecu.... right? Even if the standalone is not tuned correctly, but who cares..... hehe...:regular_smile:
 
guys, another case here...

the engine blown when missgear happen at 3rd->4th gear..
ecu got rev cut at 8800rpm, when he open the head cover, he found one pair of ratainer lock out from its position..
is it possible for the retainer lock to be jump off from its position when high revving without load (like when miss gear happen)...
 
put photo la brader...we want to see......its kinda scary ooooo......i sometime missgear aso.....aiyyyooooo...lucky my car low kompresen type only......
 

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