i do n i still do, its quite in the grey area which either ppl tight-lipped or dunno.....one mistake is all it takes to buy new engine :emoticon_U:
shiroitenshi said:Don't be confused with AFR.. I used to be. A certain AFR, like .80 in lambda scale may be lean for one engine, and just right for another. So, there isn't an accurate AFR number. It depends on how well your engine flows at different RPMs.
AFR for different engines is different. For example, I had the opportunity to see two B20B with unichip getting tuned. At 3000rpm, both cars have different AFR, although both are built with the same specs (Type R head with B20B block), except for certain things, like different mufflers, different intakes, different plug cables, etc.
There is no 'magic' number for AFR, the only magic number is 1.0 (or something close) when idle.
The right AFR is when it generates the the right horsepower at certain RPM without bogging/overheating the engine. A lot of factors goes into it after that, and it's a bit too lengthy to explain, and there are many gray areas I'm still learning about.
AFR from different places along the exhaust pipes have different readings. That's why you have the 'calibrate' button on most AFR meters (e.g. Innovate's, or Motec, that calibrates on startup)