DIY Voltage Stabilizer

Actually, we don't need 82,000uf if it is only for your ECU and sensors, a few thousand uF is more than enough. A stock ECU only have 47uF x 2pcs in the circuit. And if we take a look on the Jpn made VS, it only c/w 4pcs of low ESR high performance E-Cap + 1pc of Ceremic Cap. Judging from the E-Cap size, it should not be more than 4700uF 50V. However if we have ICE system, then 82,000uF will be able to enhance the bass SQ.

Again, i would like to stress that 16V E-Cap has too little voltage margine against 14.4V. It must be at least double or triple for safety measure. If those 16V E-Cap blown off due to surge/spike voltage from alternator over a period of time, the result will be like short circuit the battery terminals. And if the fuse cannot react fast enough to cut the high current, this high surge current will create a huge disturbance in the supply line and might kill the ECU! This is why when we mistakenly short circuit the car battery, beside getting smokes and fires, sometimes we have to pay for the ECU as well.

It is good that if we can make and sell our product. But please bare in mind that once we make this first step, we have to responsible for our product reliability.
 
levin818,

my VS is built not onli for de ECU n sensors... its for de lights, ICE n etc... so dat i can get more benefits from one thing... n my bass definitely improved...

another thing is i think using 16V caps is sufficient... our car nominal or maximum voltage is 14.4 volt... n de power supply is coming from de alternator... alternator is like a dynamo.. n de voltage supplied is proportional to de rpm.. n i believe there is a voltage regulator or limiter for de alternator.. so no matter how fast u rev ur engine.. it produce max 14.4V... so it is still safe...

if u say there is a voltage strike... then de ECU will be fried together with de VS... then if like dat without my VS de ECU also will be gone lar...

so as a safety protection i put a 10A fuse... some ppl ask me y i dun put 30A fuse... i think dat 30A fuse will not serve it purpose when there is a surge...

so far i used my VS for more than a month... under damn hot weather condition... driving daytime n nightime wit most of my electrical items on.. NO PROBLEMS at all. i open up my VS n check.. everyting inside look new.. n most important.. no deformation of de caps..

yeah.. anyway thanx for ur comments n advice..
 
guys...

my new batch of VS is out.. pls refer to Buy/Sell thread for more info..
or just contact me directly.. thanx! B)
 
Originally posted by khguan@Feb 27 2005, 10:50
levin818,

my VS is built not onli for de ECU n sensors... its for de lights, ICE n etc... so dat i can get more benefits from one thing... n my bass definitely improved...

another thing is i think using 16V caps is sufficient... our car nominal or maximum voltage is 14.4 volt... n de power supply is coming from de alternator... alternator is like a dynamo.. n de voltage supplied is proportional to de rpm.. n i believe there is a voltage regulator or limiter for de alternator.. so no matter how fast u rev ur engine.. it produce max 14.4V... so it is still safe...

if u say there is a voltage strike... then de ECU will be fried together with de VS... then if like dat without my VS de ECU also will be gone lar...

so as a safety protection i put a 10A fuse... some ppl ask me y i dun put 30A fuse... i think dat 30A fuse will not serve it purpose when there is a surge...

so far i used my VS for more than a month... under damn hot weather condition... driving daytime n nightime wit most of my electrical items on.. NO PROBLEMS at all. i open up my VS n check.. everyting inside look new.. n most important.. no deformation of de caps..

yeah.. anyway thanx for ur comments n advice..
A key point to note is that the closer the operating voltage (14.4V) present to the maximum voltage (16V), the shorter the lifespan of the capacitors. You don't have to exceed the voltage to be harmful, you have to be too close.. 1.6v/16v is a 10% margin.. sounds a tad too narrow for me.

One month is definitely too soon to gauge effects of poor voltage selection.. you are basically just testing fate here. Cheap parts might just fail earlier...that's all. Capacitors (esp electrolytic) HAVE a lifespan. They don't work forever.

If your alternator were to go faulty on you and the voltage peaks above 17V.. oxide film will form equivalent to the voltage on the anode foil. After that... gases will be generated and then pressure in the capacitor will build up. You'd be thankful things don't blow up then...

Afterall, there is no major cost difference between 16v and 25v... don't risk your electronics for ignorance. You can't say that if ECU goes, the VS goes as well.. that is testing fate... you should be able to say that even if the ECU can go my VS will still survive the surge! :huh:
 
According to E-Cap specification, the higher the voltage, the lower the ESR. Therefore a 25V E-Cap will have better noise supression performance over 16V E-Cap (which mean you can reduce the qty in parallel).
Perhaps you might want to consider this point.
 
well.. since i have done it.. n selling it.. i will consider to make wit 25V caps on de next batch... but my cost will definitely be increased.. need to calculate de cost again..
 
Originally posted by Indecided@Mar 2 2005, 19:09
Afterall, there is no major cost difference between 16v and 25v... don't risk your electronics for ignorance. You can't say that if ECU goes, the VS goes as well.. that is testing fate... you should be able to say that even if the ECU can go my VS will still survive the surge! :huh:
Did proton rejected your Job Application? Cause they sure need more minds like yours... :D
 
Originally posted by n305er+Mar 3 2005, 07:51 -->
QUOTE (n305er @ Mar 3 2005, 07:51 )
--QuoteBegin-Indecided
@Mar 2 2005, 19:09
Afterall, there is no major cost difference between 16v and 25v... don't risk your electronics for ignorance. You can't say that if ECU goes, the VS goes as well.. that is testing fate... you should be able to say that even if the ECU can go my VS will still survive the surge! :huh:

Did proton rejected your Job Application? Cause they sure need more minds like yours... :D [/b][/quote]
Well, I would probably make a dent in the finance department.. I'm a BA student.

And I won't work for non-MNCs... Nuff said about that.

Thanks for the compliment though :)
 
Originally posted by levin818@Mar 2 2005, 21:03
According to E-Cap specification, the higher the voltage, the lower the ESR. Therefore a 25V E-Cap will have better noise supression performance over 16V E-Cap (which mean you can reduce the qty in parallel).
Perhaps you might want to consider this point.
tis 1 is interesting......how much different?
 
xtorm, i doubt there will be very much improvement documentable.

This morning, went to start the car but it wouldn't start... battery voltage fell below 8v..even voltmeter won't display liao...

got a #10 wrench, removed the VS..and everything went back to normal. I'm assuming something went wrong inside, so going to take a look later.....
 
must be ur VS short.. dats y de voltage drop...

its lucky u get to know early... if not. it may melt de wires of ur VS.. n may catch fire...
 
Hi to all member that keep this treat such a Topic.

You all got really great skill to DIY the VS but what i hope for is the FARAD value for each car.

After i read all the Q and A there are no answer that i looking for.Sorry if i offend so of you but i think there should be so real guidline since this is DIY.

Like i own a Proton Saga 1.5 Carb what value of total FARAD i need ? since there other type car owner also need the answer to that. Do 32000uf is the optimal for all car?

To added for information the size of the CAP also got effect on the circuit.
The bigger the cap the bigger it can store but take longer time to charge.
 
i'm not sure whether each car need specific total cap value or not... personally i dun think so... u c those aftermarket VS they never state it is for wat car n wat car... it can be used on all cars.... so i dun think de caps values r not specific to every car...

ok.. de more farad u have... de better de stiffening effect will be when voltage drop occurs...

dun worry about de charging time... it wil be charged all de time... when ur voltage drop.. de VS will supply some current to stabilize de voltage.. n when de voltage normal de caps r charged... so time to charge de caps is NOT important.. time to discharge is important..

so dats wat i think.. in a logically way..
 
Originally posted by khguan@Mar 5 2005, 17:53
i'm not sure whether each car need specific total cap value or not... personally i dun think so... u c those aftermarket VS they never state it is for wat car n wat car... it can be used on all cars.... so i dun think de caps values r not specific to every car...

ok.. de more farad u have... de better de stiffening effect will be when voltage drop occurs...

dun worry about de charging time... it wil be charged all de time... when ur voltage drop.. de VS will supply some current to stabilize de voltage.. n when de voltage normal de caps r charged... so time to charge de caps is NOT important.. time to discharge is important..
Agree with khguan, like my case:

1. ICE system
2. 1 modified denso radiator fan
3. 1 modified denso air-cond fan
4. Add 1 denso fan 2 d oil cooler

Results:
Voltage fluctuate like crazy coz all of these parts need a lot of juice to power it up.

Solutions:
1. Try using 50,000uF not enough
2. Try using 77,000uF still not enough!!!
3. Try using 82,000uF aiyaaaa!!! not enough oso ka??? :(
4. Try using 90,900uF Fuiiiyoooo!!!! Cunnnn!!!! All the system running cun giler2 tu... Solves all the problem... will e-power, pivot raizin or what ever solves these probs??? I don't think so try all of them adi... Useless... DIY... Priceless...

So kids, the moral of the story is, only you know your car system right??? Then study them and do research on your own and ask other ZTH members about their opinion and the end product is definitely going to suite for your own ride my wise young apprentice... ;)

Correct me if i'm wrong.
 

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