CD5A 4G93T GSR (WOT problem)

rorytate said:
sorry hamsap bro for the very very late reply.

lupa oredi.

I am using 7377 with ralliart tuning chip. i replaced the 4 capacitor as well. If you get it from Jalan Pasar(or any electronic shop) it wont cost much.

Let's say rm2 for 1 capacitor expensive??


Not a problem :)

Now RM2 bucks each is really cheap hehe, its the matter of getting someone to install it, which i guess is preety expensive..

Oh well :)
 
bro,

a mechie told me before, which ever sensor and things with socket, once you unplug it you need to flash the rom or refresh via resetting the ecu.

A MUT can help, but till now i'm unsure what is wrong with your car... :-S

sorry man
 
rorytate said:
bro,

a mechie told me before, which ever sensor and things with socket, once you unplug it you need to flash the rom or refresh via resetting the ecu.

A MUT can help, but till now i'm unsure what is wrong with your car... :-S

sorry man

Rorytate,

Had the error codes cleared up yesterday via MUT, but the damn thing still lights up.. i oso damn headache already hehe
 
holy smokes barometric sensor faulty??? this is bad, the computer computes (hehe) airflow in using that as one of its input...

try changing the coils and check the ignition timing degree first like what our sifu lorry-size-turbo-rorytate said :lol:

if all oso fail... i think you should buy my microtech (selling soon, going back to stock liou) and convert to MAP and gain more horses :lol:
 
dolly said:
holy smokes barometric sensor faulty??? this is bad, the computer computes (hehe) airflow in using that as one of its input...

try changing the coils and check the ignition timing degree first like what our sifu lorry-size-turbo-rorytate said :lol:

if all oso fail... i think you should buy my microtech (selling soon, going back to stock liou) and convert to MAP and gain more horses :lol:

Rorytate;
Don't know hehe but it self-adjust according to air temp, fueling, etc etc right? So if that's the case, we shouldn't even bother manually retarding or advancing it i suppose

Dolly;

Yeah, from what I understand, MAF are used to calculate the velocity of charged air, barometric sensor on the other hand senses it's densitity. Input from these two sensors would then determine the timing degree (advance or retard) and fueling..

It seems that's suppose to be the main culprit. Havent got the time to swap another unit from the workshop to see if that's the problem. Most proly do it this Sat. Will keep you guys updated :)

Microtech - hehe would love to get it of from you but at last count, I've got to sell of a few lorries worth of PIVOT RAIZINs and SSQVs to give you an acceptable price :)
 
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hehe hope you succesfully diagnose your problem. let me know what you did to solve it too please!

your pivot business going well, let me know if you interested hehe lt10s+ignition blaster+3bar map sensor+dongle for tuning, not going to be that expensive leh hehe i just wanna go back to stock everythign, petrol price increase but salary stay same :(
 
dolly said:
petrol price increase but salary stay same :(

hehe, know what you mean bro :)

Anyways, just an update:

"Check Engine" light - Found out that one of the wires went loose earlier just now. As I had to lengthen the MAF wires longer to fit the straight pipe from the turbine to the filter, the initial joints weren't well attached. Problem solved...as of now. No bogging down or whatsoever.

The main thing here is, or for that matter the birth of this thread, was the problem with the car bogging down at WOT or at high load. This was way even before the "Check Engine" light came up.

Will drive a few days and keep you guys updated :)
 
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you said a wire went loose, which wire is that?

I also kena once, but the whole car mati engine while driving. Eventually got it fixed.

The RedSun mechanic, took a test drive, parked and opened up my bonnet.

Just unplug the MAF and plug the socket back. WAHHLAH~!~!! done....

KNNCCB...felt so stupid.. :P
 
rorytate said:
you said a wire went loose, which wire is that?

I also kena once, but the whole car mati engine while driving. Eventually got it fixed.

The RedSun mechanic, took a test drive, parked and opened up my bonnet.

Just unplug the MAF and plug the socket back. WAHHLAH~!~!! done....

KNNCCB...felt so stupid.. :P

hahah. Anyways, the wire went loose was the one that connects to the MAF connector (the one that you can plug and unplug from the MAF sensor.

The wires was extended for my case as it was too short to connect to the MAF sensor as i ditched the original rubber pipe from the turbine to the filter and went for a straight pipe instead. It was not done properly and after few days of driving, some of the wires went loose.

UPDATE AGAIN! :)

After so much pursuasion done to the mech, he finally agrees to take out the timing gun to look at the timing. Ermm.. it was at '0' hah, told him it could be the timing but still had doubts about it :)

The funny thing is, how can it 'lari' ? Yeap, it does automatically advance and retard based on the ECU's reading via air temp, velocity of air, etc, etc but that is done inside that round black thingy and can not be seen from the outside right?

It's working fine now so i guess if it does happens again, touch wood, then at least i know it's got to be with the timing :)
 
i think that round black thing with the timing marking just sets your static ignition advance. when ecu retards/advances timing you wont see it happening there. if that static timing is not synched with what the ecu sees, hell breaks loose xD
 
dolly what is your degree of advancing?

another question is, why the ecu retard the timing? fuelling problem?

damn i miss you man....buzz me when you get back doode
 
rorytate said:
dolly what is your degree of advancing?

another question is, why the ecu retard the timing? fuelling problem?

damn i miss you man....buzz me when you get back doode

The ECU retards/advance the timing based on all the info from the sensors right?

Dolly,

Yeap, that black piece of round shit does all the adjustments which a naked eye can't see by just opening up the hood. My case was the 2 round big screws that holds the the big round black thing :), lari-ed..

Never touch it before and yet that bugger lari..
 
Time to revive an old thread!

I'm having a similar problem, details below:

4G93T, stock, straight out the halfcut and into the car, manual. Since 2006.

Problem: lately, car bogs down on WOT, gradual throttle is fine. Plugged in a wideband along the exhaust, A/F is 8.9~9.1 on WOT, idle it's at 11~12.3

Checked/repleaced: plugs, cables, power unit and fuel filter, pump tested OK.

Any input as to why the engine's running so rich? Another thing I noticed (compared to another stock 93t) whenever I drive anywhere close to +ve pressure (like -0.2 on the boost meter) or if I'm cruising at high rpm, the A/F drops to 9 again. This does not happen on the other stock 93t I tested.

Pls help!! Gas mileage has gone to hell because of this too...

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi tks. Try read the error codes. Or, try swap in another ECU.
I have rebuilt many of 5663 ECU. It tends to failed due to aging now a days.
Hope this help.
 
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Greetings levin818!

I took a peek under the kick panel while i was doing my a/c last week. ECU number 7337. What ECU is this? Been playing with my Toyota's too much, this car has been neglected somewhat... :banghead: Forgot to mention on my last post, AFM (449) has been swapped out before too.

Cheers!
 
:banghead: will go look again tmr, but i'm pretty sure it was 7337, big printed sticker...unless i was looking at the wrong one...

Where's 7377 from..?
 
Time to revive an old thread!

I'm having a similar problem, details below:

4G93T, stock, straight out the halfcut and into the car, manual. Since 2006.

Problem: lately, car bogs down on WOT, gradual throttle is fine. Plugged in a wideband along the exhaust, A/F is 8.9~9.1 on WOT, idle it's at 11~12.3

Checked/repleaced: plugs, cables, power unit and fuel filter, pump tested OK.

Any input as to why the engine's running so rich? Another thing I noticed (compared to another stock 93t) whenever I drive anywhere close to +ve pressure (like -0.2 on the boost meter) or if I'm cruising at high rpm, the A/F drops to 9 again. This does not happen on the other stock 93t I tested.

Pls help!! Gas mileage has gone to hell because of this too...

Thanks in advance.

are you using stock fuel regulator?
 


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