allo bro jin or vteckiller or otai2x
i wanna ask u about piston...
which one better wiseco sr20 or 1400HD???:hmmmm:
now i wanna use stroke n block 4D68
i would go for wiseco normal pistons customed
valve pockets calculated and height calculated
u may ask khoyos about his sr20 stock pistons, how the valve broke on the pistons
he has experience on it and in the end we had to send the pistons to make the valve pockets
khoyos was only using low lift cams, if u have high lift cams hahaha think deeper :P
for sr20 pistons its wise to put plasticine on the pistons , rotate the crank and check for
valve clearance, u spend only once , so i guess if u go to sr20 pistons and etc , u have more headache and errr u seriously want to cut the forged pistons ?
remember that , brand forged conrods and pistons are packaged by close weight , meaning when u open ur box of pistons, u may see the weight of each pistons written on it, all the 4 pistons will be close in weight, once u send ur pistons to the machine shop for cutting and etc errr, u gonna spend more for balancing etc
remind me to do that on your engine jinkl when i install the piston OK :) cheers...
from the 4g63 dsm guru's
1. Dont grind the crank. Its nitrided... Get another crank if its toast....
2. Run aftermarket rods. THEY HAVE ARPS ALREADY and are ALREADY BALANCED.
3. Run wiseco pistons rediculously close in weight.. BALANCED.
4. Remove the SILENT SHAFTS AKA and misnamed as BALANCE SHAFTS..
5. Use a TQ plate with the EXACT same head and main hardware you will run TQ to the correct specs.. OEM to oem tq on caps... or ARP to ARP tq on the caps plus a line hone.. The head bolts should be ARP tq to ARP specs otherwise clean the plexi on your hockey helmet and buy a civic...
6. Run a new harmonic OEM DAMPER at minimum... Again not a balancer.. Dont use a non dampening underdrive. There will be also a 2nd SFI damper option soon...
in other words , altering the pistons or conrods = need balancing
new rods + new pistons , dont quite require balancing unless u r building a race engine
Bump:
hehe mine doesnt need balancing , i rev till 4krpm :P
haha.. :p remind me to check for valve clearance the plasticine method :)
u sure or not ur rev till 4kRPM?? kekekeke,put ur balancer belt back weyy,later u regret!!! kekekekeke
haha.. :p remind me to check for valve clearance the plasticine method :)
u sure or not ur rev till 4kRPM?? kekekeke,put ur balancer belt back weyy,later u regret!!! kekekekeke
from the 4g63 dsm guru's
1. Dont grind the crank. Its nitrided... Get another crank if its toast....
2. Run aftermarket rods. THEY HAVE ARPS ALREADY and are ALREADY BALANCED.
3. Run wiseco pistons rediculously close in weight.. BALANCED.
4. Remove the SILENT SHAFTS AKA and misnamed as BALANCE SHAFTS..
5. Use a TQ plate with the EXACT same head and main hardware you will run TQ to the correct specs.. OEM to oem tq on caps... or ARP to ARP tq on the caps plus a line hone.. The head bolts should be ARP tq to ARP specs otherwise clean the plexi on your hockey helmet and buy a civic...
6. Run a new harmonic OEM DAMPER at minimum... Again not a balancer.. Dont use a non dampening underdrive. There will be also a 2nd SFI damper option soon...
in other words , altering the pistons or conrods = need balancing
new rods + new pistons , dont quite require balancing unless u r building a race engine
Bump:
hehe mine doesnt need balancing , i rev till 4krpm :P
If not doing the balancing cannot rev more than 4k?Should i lower my rpm cut?
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