Opss...Sorry...wrong info....Here is the 1....
Some info to start on Lancer n evo chasis codes.
96-99 Lancers chasis codes:
CK2A-SNJA/SRJA - MX normal 1.5/1.3 (2WD FF)
CK2A-SNXM/SRUA - Lancer MX Saloon 1.5 (2WD FF)
CK2A-SRPM/SNPM - Lancer MX touring (2WD FF)
CM2A-SNXM - MX Saloon 1.5 (4WD)
CM5A-SRXM - MX Saloon GSR 1.8turbo (4WD)
96-05 Lancer evolution chasis code:
CN9A - Evolution IV
CP9A - Evolution V,VI (and TME)
CT9A - Evolution VII,VIII,IX
As you are interested in conversion yourself, here some question you should ponder and my answer to it. At least
you know it Before hand than later which is too late once you've decided !
(1) If a lancer convert to evo, is it legal?
If chasis structure is modified, as in cut and reweld, than is illegal. As long as engine mounting point are not modified, over CC conversion can still be accepted. However do take note that to convert fully to 4wd from 2Wd will cost you some difficulty initialy with JPJ unless you manage to source a 4WD chasis lancer.
For conversion wise, I would suggest you source for a 4WD lancer but from experience, is very rare to get CM2A and CM5A(rare) lancers as they are original 4WD hence expensive for a 1.5 saloon and not sought after. For 2WD chasis, they can kacau lar if u convert to 4WD. Ask u to go inspection lar..dismantle lar..bla.bla..bla.
However as we all aware, this is 'boleh land' lar..if u got the correct face printer on that paper, can
always work out something lor. Get my drift.....?
(2) can 1.3/1.5 to 2.0cc pass JPJ inspection?
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Read my lips ! "Money makes wonders !" However, nowdays because of the change in JPJ top guy..It is VERY and SUPER difficult to approve over cc engine conversion and transplant especialy when it involves conversion from 2WD to 4WD.
One of our fellow forummer in MLOC has recently 'experienced' this difficulty...LoL
(3) How do you convert safely and from 2WD to 4Wd ?
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Chasis:
This is the most important part assuming you perform a full convert of wiring, engine, gearbox and kits. Harden
your chasis especialy the ENGINE HOLDING bays and the Mounting point hold ! 2nd to that, is the connecting chasis
inside your car and some portion of the fuel tank hold. This is very important as lancer chasis are not made to
withstand the 280ps and the G-force 4G63T evo engine generates ! If this is not possible or you do not intend to drive long or with full power then it's ok. Otherwise you got to be very careful with the way you accelerate and not to push to hard on the car or you'll result in tearing the chasis joint especialy on the engine mounting area in the engine bay. If it's possible, remember to use Argon weld (non rust and very solid) and not those al-cheapo steel weld !
example of a join..
lancer:
-------|-------|-------|-------|
evo:
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
so to hardened, you weld:
---o---|---o---|---o---|---o---|
Get my point ?
As for 4WD:
For Lancer CK2A (2WD), you need to cut the rear but for CM2A (4WD), you can cut or not to (by modifying, but less safe) the mentioned.
Conclusion::
Is very troublesome to start the conversion on your own as your car might end up months in a garage and again as I've mentioned earlier, you need to restrenghten your chasis especialy the engine bay if you intend to convert safely from a lancers and evo and all the spray paint jobs. I'm stressing this as I am very concern and particular with a safety of the car handling such power. I've also shared this as an experience as myself and a few of my mechanice frens did experiment by tearing apart a evo full cuts chasis and compared it with a totaly striped out Lancers. The only difference in chasis we observed is the closer and higher number of weld point on a single fold/join compared to lancers (as above), the X bar on the rear portion of the seats cushion (visible from the boot), and the glass material used for the windscreen and windows. Evo's window/screen are lighter and slimmer.
If you are getting a converted evo (and save the job of getting a lancers, a good half-cut and convert thereafter) remember the following values do count into consideration in concluding the ultimate...price.
- Year of car (IMPORTANT on your loan portion)
- Accident (of course lah)
- Conversion approval (Puspakom, JPJ papers, car log stamped)
- Chasis (2WD or 4WD lancers - legality and if you don't mind a 2-4WD, to negotiate price lar) ?
- Conversion type (Rojak 4+5+6 engine parts, or proper full cut convert)
- Interior (You will be suprise how expensive it's interior are and how difficult to source one when needed).
- Safety (Chasis hardening, etc)
- Bodykits (yes..fibres and originals differens a lot in terms of quality, price and more importantly, safety. Again, if you drive like aunty, then forget about the safety part or else, a fibre bonnet is like a spring bomb in front of you waiting to jump on your windescreen as some of our member experienced the hardway!).
- others..wheels, type of rims, after markets parts (evo parts cost bombs especialy ecu n clutches,) condition of cars and parts..use some common sense lor.
My opinion:
Of course, if you have the extra cash..is always a good choice to get an original evo ! For me, if I get an ori, I will be left with no 'extra' for mod...so instead of driving a original evo stock...I got a converted and use the 'extra' for mod coz I can't control my 'itchy hand'...hehe.
If you are interested, do join our MLOC (Mitsu Lancer owners club) TT in KL or read further in the MLOC tread. We have lancers and converted evos as well as ori evo in our TT and I can share with you in more details.
Hope this helps. Happy venturing and welcome in advance to the family of mitsubishi !
