Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k
appreciate that & thx bro...extractor/piping is under serious consideration
- Hayden is good. Works is smaller but more expensive but it's good too.
- K&N isn't RM1250 la... RM125 maybe. Look out for Simota, Works, Redline, they all have filters without metal mesh. But if you can pay for a K&N no problems except for maintenance, I personally am lazy to wash and re-oil.
- servo isn't a must la. I'm still using stock Wira SE servo with my 1.6/1.8 calipers off a Putra.
Stroke, oversized pistons go together. Port and polishing is separate.
Mitsu DQSPIII can wait until after your next oil change la. But remember to replace the gb filter.
Uh.. VDO will keep learning la. It's not going to revert back to stock unless you force it to (battery disconnected for more than 24 hours or using PDT to reset the ECU).
But extractor and piping is a good idea. But I would normally recommend this last until you're done with the mods. If you change now (stock) then recommended to use 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on preference, 1.7" piping and s-flow rear muffler for auto. But if you stroke then exhaust needs to change again to utilize the power. I'm using 2" full piping which if used on stock won't necessarily work well.
oops sory bro iszo...i misunderstood the quotations, now im more clear on that, thx
and, im on 1.5auto stock, it seems 4-1 better pick-up, 4-2-1 better top-speed..but both might consume more fuel, is that true? 1 of my fren instead suggested to change the 'bullet', as this will increase overall performance & even improve fc..how true is this then?
For ATF can take a look at Pennzoil Multi Vehicle ATF which is Fully Synthetic and quite cheap.
Probably mechanic was afraid your car will consumer engine oil using FS 5w-40
Yup, K&N should not cost thousand, in hundreds only.
Probably you change the brake pads first to improve braking. Since no engine power mod, the brake will be good enough. If require servo upgrade I think the 1.6 ones are slightly larger or go chop shop for some Mitsu model. My Wira last time I transfer a Mitsu Super Saloon servo to it, but I still think a pads change will do.
bro vr2turbo yes, for the 5w40 in fact many mechs do say that:hmmmm:
servo & pads are alright still, so will cont using them 1st
pennzoil ATF...interesting and will survey that too, thx bro
Yeah, agree
Look at the other side, VDO is just plug n play type of mod, but MMC's setting will mess up and need remap etc..
Try to make burn1892 clear that which stuff is more noticeable to mod on this car, the $$ his mech quote is like chopping him. And the reason why i told him don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable is because a daily drive car stop and start / start and go kind of driving, after 2weeks or 1month we won't feel the kick/torque anymore and somehow producing more engine knocking
bro desmond, yes the overall price of servicing was a little higher but after this will be careful..
btw, abt the plugs & cables, i simply wanted to know the advantages of using them.,they were not rcmended by the mech..
very2 valuable inputs all bros, slowly beginning to learn things
and yea sory again to reply late, not purposely but wanted to observe my car's performances after the service first before replying..
first of all steering vibration/rattling is still there even after complete mounts change..
happens on D mode with brakes applied, on N and even P modes too..but for an old car cant complain much but I'd appreciate if all bros here can suggest more tunings/adjustments to at least minimize them..
few days ago went to ipoh (from penang) 80-100km/h all the way (alang2 like driving a new car
)
ipoh-penang 120-140km/h all the way up before juru
i was impressed, not to say it was flying but was quite smooth & admirable..
i can feel engine knocking when starting to accelerate, when slowing down and sometimes in idle mode too..i had this even before servicing but i thought it wud disappear once its done, no..
googling around suggested fuel system could be dirty (valves,injectors etc filled with dirt,carbon?).
might fuel system or fuel injector system cleaners help? or shall i just fill up a tank full of ron97 few times, as this was also suggested to improve/reduce knockings:hmmmm:
bro iszo & desmond..will it affect the ECU, or will it self-adjust too if fuelling different RONs?
thanks & regards all