wira a/back 1.5 auto - help needed

[vr2turbo]

Sorry la sifu. How to colect from you?

Until you are free, no worries, not taking up much space.......
Just thought you may be anxious to try them out.....

 

[Izso]

Until you are free, no worries, not taking up much space.......
Just thought you may be anxious to try them out.....

I actually did some minor repairs to my rear calipers and the brakes are biting way better now. But my stupid handbrake is still not tight enough. Need to try adjusting from the console.

 

[vr2turbo]

I actually did some minor repairs to my rear calipers and the brakes are biting way better now. But my stupid handbrake is still not tight enough. Need to try adjusting from the console.

You need to adjust from the calipers first. I had problems before, my old calipers were not self adjusting. so every time the pads wears, my handbrakes became higher. Of course it is easier to adjust from console but there will be a limit, then have to send to mechanic adjust from caliper. Mine at caliper requires the special tool to turn the piston out (for handbrakes)

 

[Izso]

You need to adjust from the calipers first. I had problems before, my old calipers were not self adjusting. so every time the pads wears, my handbrakes became higher. Of course it is easier to adjust from console but there will be a limit, then have to send to mechanic adjust from caliper. Mine at caliper requires the special tool to turn the piston out (for handbrakes)

The special 'tool' I've learnt to turn the caliper is the long nose plier

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

The special 'tool' I've learnt to turn the caliper is the long nose plier

same here

but not i found out a better "special tool"

using the multiple clip plier like this

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/cclipplier.jpg

 

[vr2turbo]

The special 'tool' I've learnt to turn the caliper is the long nose plier

Not stuck then okay. Sometimes quite different to turn...

 

[Izso]

pomen : wouldn't that tool be really soft? The long nose plier is very solid ler. This c-clip plier isn't going to be strong enough to turn that piston

 

[burn1892]

hi bro iszo..sorry to reply late
i dont really know bout this guy, this is my 1st experience with the workshop..but he gave simple yet easy to u/std type of explanations for almost all my questions..but, yes different ppl different opinions, upon one's experiences..

abt the mitsu SPIII, he didnt discourage me frm using it nor did he encourage me..but he said hes unsure of using it in a wira gb (tats when he raised the "gear slip" matter) since theres alrdy an SPlll from proton itself, which is also mitsu standard, according to him..in the end he asked for my choice, and i opt for the low risk proton SPIII..but now im fixed on my next atf replacement, mitsu DQ SPIII:)

for the engine oil he used Eneos, and said 10w40 wud be advisable for older wira like mine..

yes bro mine is an VDO type, i'll do the most important ones first like u suggested..
-is hayden for tranny cooler ok?
-k&n drop-in filter rm1250, yea very expnsv indeed, works' is cheap but uses stainless steel-mesh type..any other rcmndation other than the two?
-searching for front calipers, absorbers & etc, is servo a must? i dont really know how to "feel" if its still good to be used or not

yes bro like u said i'll try to maximum-use the car before getting other upgrades..meanwhile will study ur other suggestions "stroking, port and polishing, overbore" who knows one day i may need one or all of them.
thx a lot mate...surely kena blanja u for ur eye-opening ideas and advises all this while:)
regrds n cheers

 

[desmond0318]

Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k

 

[Izso]

hi bro iszo..sorry to reply late
i dont really know bout this guy, this is my 1st experience with the workshop..but he gave simple yet easy to u/std type of explanations for almost all my questions..but, yes different ppl different opinions, upon one's experiences..

abt the mitsu SPIII, he didnt discourage me frm using it nor did he encourage me..but he said hes unsure of using it in a wira gb (tats when he raised the "gear slip" matter) since theres alrdy an SPlll from proton itself, which is also mitsu standard, according to him..in the end he asked for my choice, and i opt for the low risk proton SPIII..but now im fixed on my next atf replacement, mitsu DQ SPIII:)

for the engine oil he used Eneos, and said 10w40 wud be advisable for older wira like mine..

yes bro mine is an VDO type, i'll do the most important ones first like u suggested..
-is hayden for tranny cooler ok?
-k&n drop-in filter rm1250, yea very expnsv indeed, works' is cheap but uses stainless steel-mesh type..any other rcmndation other than the two?
-searching for front calipers, absorbers & etc, is servo a must? i dont really know how to "feel" if its still good to be used or not

yes bro like u said i'll try to maximum-use the car before getting other upgrades..meanwhile will study ur other suggestions "stroking, port and polishing, overbore" who knows one day i may need one or all of them.
thx a lot mate...surely kena blanja u for ur eye-opening ideas and advises all this while:)
regrds n cheers

- Hayden is good. Works is smaller but more expensive but it's good too.
- K&N isn't RM1250 la... RM125 maybe. Look out for Simota, Works, Redline, they all have filters without metal mesh. But if you can pay for a K&N no problems except for maintenance, I personally am lazy to wash and re-oil.
- servo isn't a must la. I'm still using stock Wira SE servo with my 1.6/1.8 calipers off a Putra.

Stroke, oversized pistons go together. Port and polishing is separate.

Mitsu DQSPIII can wait until after your next oil change la. But remember to replace the gb filter.

Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k

Uh.. VDO will keep learning la. It's not going to revert back to stock unless you force it to (battery disconnected for more than 24 hours or using PDT to reset the ECU).

But extractor and piping is a good idea. But I would normally recommend this last until you're done with the mods. If you change now (stock) then recommended to use 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on preference, 1.7" piping and s-flow rear muffler for auto. But if you stroke then exhaust needs to change again to utilize the power. I'm using 2" full piping which if used on stock won't necessarily work well.

 

[vr2turbo]

abt the mitsu SPIII, he didnt discourage me frm using it nor did he encourage me..but he said hes unsure of using it in a wira gb (tats when he raised the "gear slip" matter) since theres alrdy an SPlll from proton itself, which is also mitsu standard, according to him..in the end he asked for my choice, and i opt for the low risk proton SPIII..but now im fixed on my next atf replacement, mitsu DQ SPIII:)

for the engine oil he used Eneos, and said 10w40 wud be advisable for older wira like mine..

-k&n drop-in filter rm1250, yea very expnsv indeed, works' is cheap but uses stainless steel-mesh type..any other rcmndation other than the two?
-searching for front calipers, absorbers & etc, is servo a must? i dont really know how to "feel" if its still good to be used or not

For ATF can take a look at Pennzoil Multi Vehicle ATF which is Fully Synthetic and quite cheap.

Probably mechanic was afraid your car will consumer engine oil using FS 5w-40

Yup, K&N should not cost thousand, in hundreds only.

Probably you change the brake pads first to improve braking. Since no engine power mod, the brake will be good enough. If require servo upgrade I think the 1.6 ones are slightly larger or go chop shop for some Mitsu model. My Wira last time I transfer a Mitsu Super Saloon servo to it, but I still think a pads change will do.

 

[desmond0318]

- Uh.. VDO will keep learning la. It's not going to revert back to stock unless you force it to (battery disconnected for more than 24 hours or using PDT to reset the ECU).

But extractor and piping is a good idea. But I would normally recommend this last until you're done with the mods. If you change now (stock) then recommended to use 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on preference, 1.7" piping and s-flow rear muffler for auto. But if you stroke then exhaust needs to change again to utilize the power. I'm using 2" full piping which if used on stock won't necessarily work well.

If it keep learning means building errors without revert that's a faulty VDO ECU, i joined drag event 0-100 at old days quite often, it give uneven performance and response everytime even our oil temp and road surf is same, powerzone team also don't tune VDO.

To be honest this ECU is good for daily drive :proud:

 

[Izso]

If it keep learning means building errors without revert that's a faulty VDO ECU, i joined drag event 0-100 at old days quite often, it give uneven performance and response everytime even our oil temp and road surf is same, powerzone team also don't tune VDO.

To be honest this ECU is good for daily drive :proud:

that's the weakspot of the VDO. Besides it was never designed for hardcore motorsports like drags la. If used on a everday car, every mod you make the VDO will adapt to utilise the mod. But there'll definitely be a point when the VDO can no longer support your mods la. But for most parts, it's quite efficient. I've personally done extensive work to my engine and so far the VDO has been working great with everything. But I suspect it'll do better if I plug in a piggyback or standalone.

Powerzone doesn't tune VDO cars because it's not good business mah. More work is required, more money is required and with all that money spent, the performance gains isn't as good as tuning a MMC engine. It's not that PZ doesn't know how - they just choose not to because it doesn't bring in the money.

 

[desmond0318]

that's the weakspot of the VDO. Besides it was never designed for hardcore motorsports like drags la. If used on a everday car, every mod you make the VDO will adapt to utilise the mod. But there'll definitely be a point when the VDO can no longer support your mods la. But for most parts, it's quite efficient. I've personally done extensive work to my engine and so far the VDO has been working great with everything. But I suspect it'll do better if I plug in a piggyback or standalone.

Powerzone doesn't tune VDO cars because it's not good business mah. More work is required, more money is required and with all that money spent, the performance gains isn't as good as tuning a MMC engine. It's not that PZ doesn't know how - they just choose not to because it doesn't bring in the money.

Yeah, agree
Look at the other side, VDO is just plug n play type of mod, but MMC's setting will mess up and need remap etc..

Try to make burn1892 clear that which stuff is more noticeable to mod on this car, the $$ his mech quote is like chopping him. And the reason why i told him don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable is because a daily drive car stop and start / start and go kind of driving, after 2weeks or 1month we won't feel the kick/torque anymore and somehow producing more engine knocking

 

[burn1892]

Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k

appreciate that & thx bro...extractor/piping is under serious consideration

- Hayden is good. Works is smaller but more expensive but it's good too.
- K&N isn't RM1250 la... RM125 maybe. Look out for Simota, Works, Redline, they all have filters without metal mesh. But if you can pay for a K&N no problems except for maintenance, I personally am lazy to wash and re-oil.
- servo isn't a must la. I'm still using stock Wira SE servo with my 1.6/1.8 calipers off a Putra.
Stroke, oversized pistons go together. Port and polishing is separate.
Mitsu DQSPIII can wait until after your next oil change la. But remember to replace the gb filter.

Uh.. VDO will keep learning la. It's not going to revert back to stock unless you force it to (battery disconnected for more than 24 hours or using PDT to reset the ECU).

But extractor and piping is a good idea. But I would normally recommend this last until you're done with the mods. If you change now (stock) then recommended to use 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on preference, 1.7" piping and s-flow rear muffler for auto. But if you stroke then exhaust needs to change again to utilize the power. I'm using 2" full piping which if used on stock won't necessarily work well.

oops sory bro iszo...i misunderstood the quotations, now im more clear on that, thx
and, im on 1.5auto stock, it seems 4-1 better pick-up, 4-2-1 better top-speed..but both might consume more fuel, is that true? 1 of my fren instead suggested to change the 'bullet', as this will increase overall performance & even improve fc..how true is this then?

For ATF can take a look at Pennzoil Multi Vehicle ATF which is Fully Synthetic and quite cheap.

Probably mechanic was afraid your car will consumer engine oil using FS 5w-40

Yup, K&N should not cost thousand, in hundreds only.

Probably you change the brake pads first to improve braking. Since no engine power mod, the brake will be good enough. If require servo upgrade I think the 1.6 ones are slightly larger or go chop shop for some Mitsu model. My Wira last time I transfer a Mitsu Super Saloon servo to it, but I still think a pads change will do.

bro vr2turbo yes, for the 5w40 in fact many mechs do say that:hmmmm:
servo & pads are alright still, so will cont using them 1st
pennzoil ATF...interesting and will survey that too, thx bro

Yeah, agree
Look at the other side, VDO is just plug n play type of mod, but MMC's setting will mess up and need remap etc..

Try to make burn1892 clear that which stuff is more noticeable to mod on this car, the $$ his mech quote is like chopping him. And the reason why i told him don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable is because a daily drive car stop and start / start and go kind of driving, after 2weeks or 1month we won't feel the kick/torque anymore and somehow producing more engine knocking

bro desmond, yes the overall price of servicing was a little higher but after this will be careful..
btw, abt the plugs & cables, i simply wanted to know the advantages of using them.,they were not rcmended by the mech..

very2 valuable inputs all bros, slowly beginning to learn things and yea sory again to reply late, not purposely but wanted to observe my car's performances after the service first before replying..
first of all steering vibration/rattling is still there even after complete mounts change..
happens on D mode with brakes applied, on N and even P modes too..but for an old car cant complain much but I'd appreciate if all bros here can suggest more tunings/adjustments to at least minimize them..

few days ago went to ipoh (from penang) 80-100km/h all the way (alang2 like driving a new car)
ipoh-penang 120-140km/h all the way up before juru
i was impressed, not to say it was flying but was quite smooth & admirable..
i can feel engine knocking when starting to accelerate, when slowing down and sometimes in idle mode too..i had this even before servicing but i thought it wud disappear once its done, no..
googling around suggested fuel system could be dirty (valves,injectors etc filled with dirt,carbon?).
might fuel system or fuel injector system cleaners help? or shall i just fill up a tank full of ron97 few times, as this was also suggested to improve/reduce knockings:hmmmm:

bro iszo & desmond..will it affect the ECU, or will it self-adjust too if fuelling different RONs?

thanks & regards all

 

[desmond0318]

appreciate that & thx bro...extractor/piping is under serious consideration

oops sory bro iszo...i misunderstood the quotations, now im more clear on that, thx
and, im on 1.5auto stock, it seems 4-1 better pick-up, 4-2-1 better top-speed..but both might consume more fuel, is that true? 1 of my fren instead suggested to change the 'bullet', as this will increase overall performance & even improve fc..how true is this then?

Actually is 4-2-1 1-3k rpm and 4-1 for 4k above, depends which kinda driving style u face daily, think twice if really wanna remove the catalytic converter for a bullet, will noticeable lost FC

first of all steering vibration/rattling is still there even after complete mounts change..
happens on D mode with brakes applied, on N and even P modes too..but for an old car cant complain much but I'd appreciate if all bros here can suggest more tunings/adjustments to at least minimize them..

If steering still rattling after all 4 mounts changed usually i'll check spark plugs or find some workshop to do Threebond throttle body clean, this things can't really do at home your neighbours or maybe whole street will come shoot u

i can feel engine knocking when starting to accelerate, when slowing down and sometimes in idle mode too..i had this even before servicing but i thought it wud disappear once its done, no..
googling around suggested fuel system could be dirty (valves,injectors etc filled with dirt,carbon?).
might fuel system or fuel injector system cleaners help? or shall i just fill up a tank full of ron97 few times, as this was also suggested to improve/reduce knockings:hmmmm:

Is something about air and fuel mixture, i remember last time when there is no ron95 in the market most driver using ron97 when i change a drop in high flow air filter it already producing pinging, spend alot of time to change different heat range spark plugs to fix that. Ron97 is only reducing the pinging/knocking not a blessed water from heaven la

 

[Izso]

oops sory bro iszo...i misunderstood the quotations, now im more clear on that, thx
and, im on 1.5auto stock, it seems 4-1 better pick-up, 4-2-1 better top-speed..but both might consume more fuel, is that true? 1 of my fren instead suggested to change the 'bullet', as this will increase overall performance & even improve fc..how true is this then?

I think Desmond has already responded to you. Personally I'm using 4-2-1 with a large resonator, not a bullet. I've tried bullet and I don't feel any difference at all. Don't believe the FC claims when it comes to exhaust. The difference in FC will be so minimal it'll be neglible. Aim for torque and driveability. Forget about everything else.

I recommend you get a 4-2-1, large resonator / muffler (midbox), S-flow rear muffler. If you can afford it, consider adding a high-flow catcon. Otherwise just de-cat. All piping 1.7 inch diameter. But word of warning, this setup like all aftermarket setup will be noisy. Even with the quietest Sflow muffler the exhaust will be louder than stock. If you like quiet, stay with stock. Forget about the 'swirl' bullet.

And seriously consider changing your exhaust last after you've done all other types of mods that you want to do.

first of all steering vibration/rattling is still there even after complete mounts change..
happens on D mode with brakes applied, on N and even P modes too..but for an old car cant complain much but I'd appreciate if all bros here can suggest more tunings/adjustments to at least minimize them..

i can feel engine knocking when starting to accelerate, when slowing down and sometimes in idle mode too..i had this even before servicing but i thought it wud disappear once its done, no..
googling around suggested fuel system could be dirty (valves,injectors etc filled with dirt,carbon?). might fuel system or fuel injector system cleaners help? or shall i just fill up a tank full of ron97 few times, as this was also suggested to improve/reduce knockings:hmmmm:

bro iszo & desmond..will it affect the ECU, or will it self-adjust too if fuelling different RONs?

If it's vibrating like that it might be the gearbox mountings too. Did you change those? But if the vibration isn't too excessive, just "N" it everytime you stop for longer than 10 seconds la. Injector dirty wouldn't cause excessive vibration like that, you'll get very jerky performance from the car. But injector cleaning is worth doing though. Ultrasonic injector cleaning. About RM80 (i think) to clean one injector. Usually done by a machine. Don't bother with those injector cleaning additives and all.

Knocking when accelerating - did you check your spark plugs? Are your spark cables ok? Clean your injectors then only see how.

very2 valuable inputs all bros, slowly beginning to learn things and yea sory again to reply late, not purposely but wanted to observe my car's performances after the service first before replying..

Nice to have forummers like you who are willing to discuss, try and give feedback without any pre-conceptions.

 

[meltan7]

I think Desmond has already responded to you. Personally I'm using 4-2-1 with a large resonator, not a bullet. I've tried bullet and I don't feel any difference at all. Don't believe the FC claims when it comes to exhaust. The difference in FC will be so minimal it'll be neglible. Aim for torque and driveability. Forget about everything else.

I recommend you get a 4-2-1, large resonator / muffler (midbox), S-flow rear muffler. If you can afford it, consider adding a high-flow catcon. Otherwise just de-cat. All piping 1.7 inch diameter. But word of warning, this setup like all aftermarket setup will be noisy. Even with the quietest Sflow muffler the exhaust will be louder than stock. If you like quiet, stay with stock. Forget about the 'swirl' bullet.

And seriously consider changing your exhaust last after you've done all other types of mods that you want to do.



If it's vibrating like that it might be the gearbox mountings too. Did you change those? But if the vibration isn't too excessive, just "N" it everytime you stop for longer than 10 seconds la. Injector dirty wouldn't cause excessive vibration like that, you'll get very jerky performance from the car. But injector cleaning is worth doing though. Ultrasonic injector cleaning. About RM80 (i think) to clean one injector. Usually done by a machine. Don't bother with those injector cleaning additives and all.

Knocking when accelerating - did you check your spark plugs? Are your spark cables ok? Clean your injectors then only see how.



Nice to have forummers like you who are willing to discuss, try and give feedback without any pre-conceptions.

what's the ideal piping size for a stroked 1.5?

 

[burn1892]

Actually is 4-2-1 1-3k rpm and 4-1 for 4k above, depends which kinda driving style u face daily, think twice if really wanna remove the catalytic converter for a bullet, will noticeable lost FC

If steering still rattling after all 4 mounts changed usually i'll check spark plugs or find some workshop to do Threebond throttle body clean, this things can't really do at home your neighbours or maybe whole street will come shoot u

Is something about air and fuel mixture, i remember last time when there is no ron95 in the market most driver using ron97 when i change a drop in high flow air filter it already producing pinging, spend alot of time to change different heat range spark plugs to fix that. Ron97 is only reducing the pinging/knocking not a blessed water from heaven la

I think Desmond has already responded to you. Personally I'm using 4-2-1 with a large resonator, not a bullet. I've tried bullet and I don't feel any difference at all. Don't believe the FC claims when it comes to exhaust. The difference in FC will be so minimal it'll be neglible. Aim for torque and driveability. Forget about everything else.

I recommend you get a 4-2-1, large resonator / muffler (midbox), S-flow rear muffler. If you can afford it, consider adding a high-flow catcon. Otherwise just de-cat. All piping 1.7 inch diameter. But word of warning, this setup like all aftermarket setup will be noisy. Even with the quietest Sflow muffler the exhaust will be louder than stock. If you like quiet, stay with stock. Forget about the 'swirl' bullet.

And seriously consider changing your exhaust last after you've done all other types of mods that you want to do.

If it's vibrating like that it might be the gearbox mountings too. Did you change those? But if the vibration isn't too excessive, just "N" it everytime you stop for longer than 10 seconds la. Injector dirty wouldn't cause excessive vibration like that, you'll get very jerky performance from the car. But injector cleaning is worth doing though. Ultrasonic injector cleaning. About RM80 (i think) to clean one injector. Usually done by a machine. Don't bother with those injector cleaning additives and all.

Knocking when accelerating - did you check your spark plugs? Are your spark cables ok? Clean your injectors then only see how.

Nice to have forummers like you who are willing to discuss, try and give feedback without any pre-conceptions.

noted bros....
this exhaust/piping matter is quite a confusing one....i was thinking of only improving them to get a little extra performance, so if its a very low-noise one then i'll consider, but for the time being i think better to stick to the stock ones

yes all 4 mounts changed bros, changed to new plugs and cables as well (all bosch)..yea im doing "N" whenever theres a long stop but i can really see the steering rattling even while in "N" too..since i already have my TB cleaned and ECU reset, is it advisable to re-do the cleaning using threebond? theres a wshop in penang who does it for around 100-120. for injector cleaning, bro iszo said 80/injector, so may i know how many of them are there in a wira 1.5?

btw just to test the engine knocking sound, i filled up my tank with caltex techron 97(bro desmond, too late la..i read your reply only after filling up)...can feel immediate response from engine but the knocking/pinging is still there albeit being reduced a little (to 30% i think, 70% is still there)

need one more suggestion to 'lighten' my steering...i feel tight while cornering and parking..my steering fluid is full, but one of the steering bush cover is torn/worn out (dont know how to describe it)

bros here helped me so much..but if I cant really follow all the suggestions I at least have to share whatever im doing/testing to be fair...rite bro iszo?

thx all of u

 

[Izso]

what's the ideal piping size for a stroked 1.5?

Are you going to oversize the pistons? 2" throughout bro.

yes all 4 mounts changed bros, changed to new plugs and cables as well (all bosch)..yea im doing "N" whenever theres a long stop but i can really see the steering rattling even while in "N" too..since i already have my TB cleaned and ECU reset, is it advisable to re-do the cleaning using threebond? theres a wshop in penang who does it for around 100-120. for injector cleaning, bro iszo said 80/injector, so may i know how many of them are there in a wira 1.5?

The gearbox itself has mounts, so I don't know if that was changed? It's very rarely touched. But like I said - if you can live with it and if the vibration isn't too bad, don't bother with it la.

Honestly - I don't know how 3bond works and I don't quite like the idea of so much smoke coming out from my exhaust. The O2 sensor might get damaged from that (I don't know, never tried) and I just generally find all that smoke very polluting.

Just try ultrasonic injector cleaning first la. 4 injectors only.

need one more suggestion to 'lighten' my steering...i feel tight while cornering and parking..my steering fluid is full, but one of the steering bush cover is torn/worn out (dont know how to describe it)

bros here helped me so much..but if I cant really follow all the suggestions I at least have to share whatever im doing/testing to be fair...rite bro iszo?

thx all of u

Suggest you replace the steering bushes (left and right) with PU pushes or just replace with ori rubber ones if the old ones are visibly damaged. The other thing to do is to flush out the power steering system. Sometimes old power steering fluid might cause the tightness. If you're game, it's actually quite easy to do. Jack up the car front and put it on stands. Take a old Rejoice pump action bottle and take the pump. Pump out the power steering fluid using that pump into a disposable bottle or something. Then pour in new power steering fluid. Start the car (on the jackstands) and turn the steering left (all the way) then right (all the way) repeat about 5 times then pump out all the oil and repeat the whole process again. Usually about 2 times of pumping it out the fluid will turn nice and clear (red but clear).