Top... End....

sifu cultus how much hole i need to punch into my bank account to get a G13B 1.3GTi in myswift?

G13B 1.3GTi is it the same with JDM and the gtti spec

3-4k?
 
not gtti la bro.. Swift 1.3GTi.. JDM(Cultus) means halfcut from Japan and non JDM is others country like singapore..but for me no compromise bcoze if u get from non JDM u also can hit if u want..

Standart Swift 1.3GTi..suzuki minimize the power for fuel consumption and reliabilty but still can kick other cars..

But if u want to maximize the power with standart engine u can do it not too much money u have to spend..

If u want to kill evo, subaru even ferrari so u have to do something like no 1 awd australia swift 1.3GTi or you can see at youtube that too many swift gti/geometro(swift) moded all over the world that can kill most of supercar...he..he..

Now halfcut maybe around rm5-6k.. bfore this 3-4k only.. then wage around rm1.5k..
 
omg..
5-6k for halfcut and 1.5k wage..

i got 4k to spend around end of this year..
what can i do? hehe

my 1.0 is slower then a motocycle
seriously, maybe i should go check it at some mechenic?

i just want a car . simple yet can kill protons which i hate :D
ur opinions will be on top of my list!
 
not gtti la bro.. Swift 1.3GTi.. JDM(Cultus) means halfcut from Japan and non JDM is others country like singapore..but for me no compromise bcoze if u get from non JDM u also can hit if u want..

Standart Swift 1.3GTi..suzuki minimize the power for fuel consumption and reliabilty but still can kick other cars..

But if u want to maximize the power with standart engine u can do it not too much money u have to spend..

If u want to kill evo, subaru even ferrari so u have to do something like no 1 awd australia swift 1.3GTi or you can see at youtube that too many swift gti/geometro(swift) moded all over the world that can kill most of supercar...he..he..

Now halfcut maybe around rm5-6k.. bfore this 3-4k only.. then wage around rm1.5k..

swift wanna tapau ferari tuh..!! hehehehe:biggrin::biggrin:
 
slave,
190kmh only?? wanna try 7500rpm, 5th gear cut at top speed? if you put Spore 220kmh meter. its already there.

suzukisuis,
ciss...150kmh? 3th gear tuh..

amyazid,
now is not worth it convert to 1.3 engine cause the cost will reach rm8k-10k full convert.my suggestion, sell your GL and buy GTi..(PM me if you r interested.est.rm12k).
heavily mode GL, can't even reach gti climax..i'd tried.save your pocket

acid,
just maintain your piping size even if you change the muffler.if not, you'll loss power.
try get 3 in 1 GL extractor at DZZ..and install the open pod filter too make it synchronized.

aja,
gti is not a performances car. but their abilities are far beyond expectation.
it was design to run smooth and safe at 180kmh mark with the exceptional engine reliability.
one can mod their car as kancil can go 200kmh but do they save?

while performance car are built to last-no limitation.
 
slave,
190kmh only?? wanna try 7500rpm, 5th gear cut at top speed? if you put Spore 220kmh meter. its already there.

suzukisuis,
ciss...150kmh? 3th gear tuh..

amyazid,
now is not worth it convert to 1.3 engine cause the cost will reach rm8k-10k full convert.my suggestion, sell your GL and buy GTi..(PM me if you r interested.est.rm12k).
heavily mode GL, can't even reach gti climax..i'd tried.save your pocket

acid,
just maintain your piping size even if you change the muffler.if not, you'll loss power.
try get 3 in 1 GL extractor at DZZ..and install the open pod filter too make it synchronized.

aja,
gti is not a performances car. but their abilities are far beyond expectation.
it was design to run smooth and safe at 180kmh mark with the exceptional engine reliability.
one can mod their car as kancil can go 200kmh but do they save?

while performance car are built to last-no limitation.

where is DZZ?? thz..
 
acid,

dzz at AU3 keramat..after shop relocate a bit mess.as i remember,there might still have the used 3-1 header.

call the mechanic for details...zuhaili 0162576893
 
amyazid,
now is not worth it convert to 1.3 engine cause the cost will reach rm8k-10k full convert.my suggestion, sell your GL and buy GTi..(PM me if you r interested.est.rm12k).
heavily mode GL, can't even reach gti climax..i'd tried.save your pocket



i dream bout that engine everyday :D
at the same time i love my car too, some how i wanted that engine pumping in my car..
its bout the sentimental value then i first saw my car ( its my 1st car with my own money )
my knee is already shaking when i saw 10k.. its more then my car itself :(
guess i need to upgrade my engine abit. and say goodbye to G13, well.. we cant always get what we need..
 
amyazid,

i'm also had that feeling last time when i bought a nice GL 94 battletune at rm 22k after nego which the market price is rm28k.consider of driving with my wife..its just nice.good looking-fun to drive and guess what, everyone asking what car is this?? the cabin is spacious.can fit 3 person at the back...
i always cruise at 120kmh at hiway and somtime clocked 135kmh (Top speed).fuel consumption is close to kancil.
BUT when started of convoy with other proton/honda fella, i start of thinking to enhance the engine at least to clocked 160kmh.cause my top speed can't overtake 850 kancil..errr...
i knew zuhaili since yr 2000 when i saw him with other gti fella converting the GL.that time the JDM halfcut (GT-square dash) is at rm2-2.5k.cultus is hard to fine but if have, it cost rm3k add another rm1k, you got whole car.
in my mind, its only 300cc more and you need to upgrade of RM4k for gti? let me try some mode started with K@N drop in filter-length tune hotbits extractor & exhaust complete-NGK cable & platinum plug-top overhaul-light 14" enkei rim-hotbits spring-install front lower swaybar and upper strut brace-FPR-advance tune at suzuki (Carb and btdc)-additional fuel pump at engine bay and many more....done > rm3k.
revs hard but only get 145kmh max.pick up 1-2-3 side by side with iswara 1.3.

then zuhaili suggest to test a 1990 spore GT which is not in good shape..cause the owner want to sell rm25k...walla..1-2-3 i blew wira, top speed easily reach 160kmh.still can go but the car shaking due to car rims, not balancing.

as i remember, there's a GL car with heavily mode with fully balancing engine-mild cam-adjustable pulley-lightened flywheel can only follow gti at 160kmh.

BUT bear in mind.GL use a normal carb 3cyl engine.if you revs hard,the engine will sound rough and start leaks...

a GTi use fully aluminium twincam high revs 10:1 EFi engine which is suitable to revs at 8600rpm.std gti already can compete a 1.8 putra and 150hp vtec.
gti manic can do more...

ok.back to your topic,
a gti conversion nowdays require:-
1- gti halfcut. GT spore - square dashboard est rm3.5-4k
GTi spore cultus - round dashboard est rm4-4.5k
JDM cultus - more than rm4.5k
(BUT you can get it cheaper by follow up with halfcut agent at japan/spore)..
some guys get it at rm3k at kepong.
2. conversion cost - rm1.5k
3. 15" rim needed cause the gti need bigger rim to stabilize ets rm1k
4. engine service - timng belt-clutch plate-filter-brake pad-plug-oil etc est rm1k
5.with your new body kits, you need to respray est rm1k
6. interior - seat est rm 800 complete
7. door panel - if you use cultus - rm 600 - 800
8. rear spoiler - top and middle - fiber rm 400 (halcut = rm 800)
9. side skirt - fiber - rm180 (halfcut = rm350)
10. exhaust piping 1.75" pipe and muffler est rm400 at wei yip.

rough calculation, reach rm11.5k
if you just convert and run, you need rm 3.5k+1.5k, rim 1.5k + piping rm400 is already rm7k

all this is not include a wear and tear..somtimes it cost more that you expected.
e.g aircond set (recond compressor-cooling coil-condensor) rm1k
radiator - CV joint - fuel pump - braking - power steering - engine mounting -
top overhaul - sensors..(this is expensive) etc..
you might spare another rm2-3k

a perfect conversion now already reach rm15k and you ready to go.

used gti at the market now selling at the cheapest rm10k..mostly spore engine model.
good running std JDM cultus, they offer rm12k - 15k
moded gti will cost more.
 
acid,

dzz at AU3 keramat..after shop relocate a bit mess.as i remember,there might still have the used 3-1 header.

call the mechanic for details...zuhaili 0162576893

called him but no more in stock. i'm gonna try to custom made 1 and thinking of using 1.6 or 1.7 piping with "pusing" center box. wat do u think?? ..thz..
 
oic..b4 he move to his new shop..a lot of GL stuff laying at the back area..i'm afraid he has throw away..as i know, 3-1 extractor that was available is from Hotbits.
maybe you can search at off jln ipoh-kg batu exhaust dealer shop.they have plenty line up of all kind of exhaust-extractor..just name it..if none..maybe obsolete cause no demand.
i suggest this because 3-1 push better. mid section,prefer bullet type..better compress.try get a CAT cause it quiet. tail pipe can use oval straight flow.
my setting last time use all hotbits which according to speedwork can get 10% more power..with follow street rules..means: less noise.
pipe size is 1.5"which is std GL i think.
the theory of this mode is started from the air intake..get a k@n drop in filter (expensive) or try modified from proton carb open pod mounting.then open a bit the air setting...use a length tune extractor..bigger pipe..10% max..straight flow mid and tail pipe..you can feel better acceleration.
BUT, straight muffler a bit noisy..thats why i prefer S flow from hotbits.
 
such pro, advise .. thank u.. that just answer all my question in 1 post!

i guess i'll keep my 1.0 engine , coz theres no way i can digg up that much money .. ever!
haha..
thrown away the gti-convert spec, now only focusing on upgrading a bit my ride..
just to make it fun to drive.

im not a fan of heavy modding ( as money is really an issue :love: )
i got 120km/h max ( with the heavy noise and rattling at engine bay :D ) as u already said.. modding even after spending over 3k only gets u to 145km/h..
maybe i just need a few tweeks here and there to make my car smoother, and needed to change the absorber a.s.a.p as its tend to make more and more i would say funnier noise every each turn :P
should i just go DZZ at keramat to ask around?
or get a few information on what i should get here at zerotohundred.

i prefer to go with some knowledge in hands ( so i wont look too stupid :) )
 
thanks ABV9750. at least i know where and how to start to my GL. i agree with AmYazid. just do some tweak here & there to make our car smoother & a bit more power. too heavy mod won't be that nessasary. get a 2nd hand GTI is much adviceble. i'll scout around for the exhaust sytem u recommended. thanks a lot..
 
not a pro..i'm still learning new things.only experience and observation make it different.i don't mind sharing knowledge BUT this is only from my 2 cent.for quick info, you need to join all related forum.
for old Swift fella, not much you will get cause there's less owner and furthermore, the owner only interested in upgrading and track.
thats why i join SSGTi us-redline aussie-cultus singapore forumer and get info since 2000.after 2004, the forum is very slow due to people don't ride a gti anymore..hehe

for you guys ride a GL, it still ok..3 cylinder engine require a light engine oil, 10W30.
try a cheap mode/diy stuff like:-
1. proton open port filter mounting with filter - for smooth engine breath
2. car tuning - increase HC CO%. check std CO% and increase a bit.
3. set advance btdc at 10 deg.
4. additional fuel pump-regulator to increase fuel pressure..
5. S flow exhaust set
6. lightened flywheel..just a few gram is prefered.
7. light 13" rims enough by using 185/60 tyre.
8. use other bigger cc std cable with bosch super 4.i found this better acc.
9. engine mounting if you found your engine started to lean more when you revs.
10.check combustion pressure.old car for sure need to top overhaul-replace ring.

there's many more that you can refer from other car mode. BUT once you'd started, you need to always check the engine oil level..suzuki engine is proned of oil burning..when too much high revs, oil quantity will be less and worst condition, engine cramp.

for suzuki owner at KL, dzz is a better place for normal service/advise. for advance job,look for monster garage.

front absorber for std use, try K-showa. rm125 per pcs.its better than stock kayaba.
funny noise during turn, you need to check the absorber mounting bearing or you CV joint..if your ride too much bouncing, then replace the absorber.
 
is the GL engine can only use 10W30?

what happen if i used 40/50?
will it cause engine damage?

im afraid i will have to do all of the above..
the upgrade i mean..
my engine sometimes snaps! when im pressing half or more on my paddle at 2nd gear..
the engine will die.. after start-up everytime i try to accelerate then it will die.. again..
need to wait around 15-20 mins to "cool" it down to run again
 
amyazid,

what do you mean of 40/50? 10W is the oil viscosity.lower the number oil is thinner and expensive.for old engine, mecjanic recommend 20W50 which suite for your GL BUT
suzuki engine use hydraullic tappet which using the oil to auto adjust the tappet clerance.hence prefer lighter oil as good as 15W40 or if your engine is in good shape, try 10W30 which is recommend for 3 cylinder like kancil.
the end number 30,40,50,60 is the oil strength..bigger the number is better but this one only applicable for racing/rally purpose.normal drive, 30 to 50 is ok.
for old engine, if use lighter oil, it will leaks faster and become worst if you high revs fequently.

in your case, i'm not sure whether its from the engine itself. because if the engine problem, in idle or revs a bit, you will hear a rough noise...white smoke or worst case, less compression and lead to no acc power..if the engine die at 2nd gear, try check other source like carb tuning. cause if it doesn't tune well, you are runnnig rich with fuel or check your plug-cable-distributor..if the plug not good, the mixer becoming too much fuel or your piston ring-valveseal already leak which cause the oil entering the combustion and clodge the plug.
check also the vacuum hose..carb engine use a lot of vacuum as a engine tuning.

send to dzz..he knows what to do..if you don't have the ability to troubleshoot yourself.
 

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