R3-Satria (gti)

GeneX said:
Mine is 100km/h after service =.=" b4 tat is 105

As mentioned in earlier postings, the gear ratios are fixed. Whether you drive a stage 1 or stage 2 car, a Wira 1.8 or Satria GTi, the RPM at 100km/h in 5th gear is 3,100rpm.

All these cars including the SR3 are using the F5M22P gearbox, which translates to the numbers above.

This will not change whether you have 180bhp or 150bhp car, performance cams or otherwise.

It will change however, if the Final Drive or 5th gear ratio is changed. Hope this is clear.
 
..

did any GTI fix the R3 exhaust already the complete stage 1
how was the feeling..
can feel the difference?
uhmm ofcoz the GTI with MMC ecu batch
 
Deskerz said:
did any GTI fix the R3 exhaust already the complete stage 1
how was the feeling..
can feel the difference?
uhmm ofcoz the GTI with MMC ecu batch

Not sure which SGTi has the R3 exhaust system, but you can rest assured of some horsepower gain, since the SGTi one is restricted in stock form.

The R3 system is a tuned-length, free flow full exhaust system. A good mod if you are looking at improving performance.
 
Hey daze,

Currently there is only 1 R3 full exhaust system, which is the Stage 1 version.

The only Stage 3 kit is the Stage 3 4-to-1 R3 header, which works best with Stage 2 + Stage 3 cams.
 
Amin said:
Actually, for SR3s with EMS the additional adjustable cam pulley for the inlet cam is not required because the ECU is unable to compensate for any cam timming changes on the inlet side.

For MMC equiped Satrias/Wiras/Putras, R3 Adjustable Cam Pulleys are recommended for both inlet and exhaust cams. This is because the MMC ECU is more responsive to changes in cam timming on both cams and thus we can optimise both inlet and exhaust cam timmings to get more power.

FYI
R3 Stage 2 Cams are RM 1600 for a set with trade-in
Installation will take 3 hours which costs RM70/hr. Total RM210.00
Total for cams+installation RM1810.00

Once installed, R3 will do your first dyno run and cam timming optimisation for free. Usually R3 Dyno Runs will set you back RM200.00/session including cam timming optimisation. Dyno runs are done at PROTON R&D and HP readings are taken in fourth gear NOT in third like other shops. This will give a more accurate, real life power reading from your engine. Readings taken in third gear will definitely yield more power but its not accurate.

Finally we would recommend that you leave the car for a day so that we can get the minor bugs sorted out before you get to rip your SR3 all the way to 7000rpm :)

And another thing
With R3 Stage 2 Cams installed generally SR3s will get close to 170bhp @ the engine which equates to about 140bhp @ the wheels (~3-5bhp). Low end there's not much change...but after 3500rpm-4000rpm you'll feel significant pull all the way up to 7000rpm. We don't have official 0-100km/h figures but up top expect to see 215km/h-220km/h easy!

Oh...and
Our Stage 2 cams are available for 4G93P engines in Wira, Putra and Satria GTi


Hope this clears the confusion somewhat :)



Amin

Amin,

"Readings taken in third gear will definitely yield more power but its not accurate."

a) How is it possible that power from 3rd gear is higher than 4th gear? Is it significant?

b) How come it is not accurate? Not accurate compare to what standard?

Hope you'll share with us. Thanks.

Cheers.
 
anyone settle the vdo spraypaint problem by replace the face of the meter.
seem like proton sc don't have stock to replace the meter yet.
i think maybe can change the meter face to aftermarket one.
hehe and i think meter with red backlight or either white face will be cool.
can even custom a small r3 sticker to stick to the face b4 install... :)

any shop to recommend, saw a few design at gc motorsport. but the neon like backlight a bit too much... :P



 
niceputera said:
Amin,

"Readings taken in third gear will definitely yield more power but its not accurate."

a) How is it possible that power from 3rd gear is higher than 4th gear? Is it significant?

b) How come it is not accurate? Not accurate compare to what standard?

Hope you'll share with us. Thanks.

Cheers.

Let me try and answer that, although the R3 technical team may do a better job.

Chassis dyno results may vary as much as 3-4% depending on different gears used. The de facto standard is actually 4th gear.

As most people know, there are power losses through the drivetrain so wheel hp is always lower than flywheel hp. Front wheel drive cars engines tend to be more efficient than most rear drive configurations due to the layout of components. However most publications overestimate these losses considerably. Most rear drive cars have a 1 to 1, 4th gear which means that the power path goes directly through the mainshaft of the transmission. The only losses here are bearing drag which is less than 0.5% and the viscous drag of the gears running through the oil which is about 1% with hot oil. Indeed, published data indicates a transmission efficiency of 98 to 98.5% for conventional transmissions in 4th gear.

Losses within the driveshaft account for about 0.5% if they are properly aligned, balanced and with fresh U-joints.

Differential losses in the commonly used Hypoid type gearset is in the order of 6 to 10%.

The worst scenario case for a rear drive setup is on the order of 12.5% in 4th gear, not the 20 -25% often published. If 25% was being lost in the drivetrain, the oil would boil in the differential housing in short order and aluminum transmission cases would fatigue and break from the temperatures generated. On a 200 hp engine, something on the order of 37,000 watts would have to be dissipated out of the transmission and differential housings. Obviously, this is not the case.

Transverse, front drive transaxles usually have no direct lockup gears and no 1 to 1 ratio, however, since the torque path is never turned 90 degrees as in the rear drive setup and efficient helical gears are usually employed for the final drive set, losses are more on the order of 6 to 9 percent in the upper ratios.


So why 4th gear? In general, its what you call "direct drive" or "straight through" becoz of its 1 to 1 ratio, so the most optimal gear due to the least loss through drivetrain and best power reading at the wheels on the dyno!

As an example - R3 quotes about 12% loss to the drivetrain from the flywheel while Links would quote 18%. Just for kicks, let's say we have a 125whp reading from a SR3 from both dynos.


125whp + 12% = 140bhp
125whp + 18% = 147.5bhp


Do you see the discrepancy? But in general, dynos are not fantastically accurate. There are many variables to consider and these variables influence the final result. However, it is proven that dynos run on 4th are more accurate.


Dynos are a good way to benchmark your car, as a stepping stone to tune and mod it, but don't take single, one-off readings as a definitive.


Hope this helps man!
 
Last edited:
found this in the star:

PROTON SATRIA 1.8 GTi Jun '05, limited edt, R3, met black, mile 1000km, like new, 100% acc free. RM68,800. Full loan. 016-6882323 [size=-1]28/9/2005[/size]

I wonder what the lev # is on this one.. since june also baru 1k km.. got mine in july but already done 7k km..
 
10k for a car that came out Dec last yr is pretty ok.

Basic rule of thumb is 20% less new price after a year.
 
In the same section, I also saw a Smart Fourtwo on sale at about the same price. If i'm not mistaken, it was priced similarly to the Satria R3 when new. But this one's made by Daimler Chrysler.
 
lude said:
found this in the star:

PROTON SATRIA 1.8 GTi Jun '05, limited edt, R3, met black, mile 1000km, like new, 100% acc free. RM68,800. Full loan. 016-6882323 [size=-1]28/9/2005[/size]

I wonder what the lev # is on this one.. since june also baru 1k km.. got mine in july but already done 7k km..

Guys, this is a goodbuy! actually i saw a few already at the used cars, wonder why they selling off ? accident ? or tersilap beli in the first place.. ? good car..

eh anyway i heard there's another trackday + defensive driving course this Nov ? 2 days somemore with cars provided ? anyone can confirm this.. sigh gonna miss this event again !
 
lude said:
found this in the star:

PROTON SATRIA 1.8 GTi Jun '05, limited edt, R3, met black, mile 1000km, like new, 100% acc free. RM68,800. Full loan. 016-6882323 [size=-1]28/9/2005[/size]

I wonder what the lev # is on this one.. since june also baru 1k km.. got mine in july but already done 7k km..

perhaps the owner have many cars at home, this one for sunday driving only.
 
amin, is the proton's dyno open to public? is it possible to rent it on a perhour basis? also what dyno are you guys using?
 
Crash said:
Let me try and answer that, although the R3 technical team may do a better job.

Chassis dyno results may vary as much as 3-4% depending on different gears used. The de facto standard is actually 4th gear.

As most people know, there are power losses through the drivetrain so wheel hp is always lower than flywheel hp. Front wheel drive cars engines tend to be more efficient than most rear drive configurations due to the layout of components. However most publications overestimate these losses considerably. Most rear drive cars have a 1 to 1, 4th gear which means that the power path goes directly through the mainshaft of the transmission. The only losses here are bearing drag which is less than 0.5% and the viscous drag of the gears running through the oil which is about 1% with hot oil. Indeed, published data indicates a transmission efficiency of 98 to 98.5% for conventional transmissions in 4th gear.

Losses within the driveshaft account for about 0.5% if they are properly aligned, balanced and with fresh U-joints.

Differential losses in the commonly used Hypoid type gearset is in the order of 6 to 10%.

The worst scenario case for a rear drive setup is on the order of 12.5% in 4th gear, not the 20 -25% often published. If 25% was being lost in the drivetrain, the oil would boil in the differential housing in short order and aluminum transmission cases would fatigue and break from the temperatures generated. On a 200 hp engine, something on the order of 37,000 watts would have to be dissipated out of the transmission and differential housings. Obviously, this is not the case.

Transverse, front drive transaxles usually have no direct lockup gears and no 1 to 1 ratio, however, since the torque path is never turned 90 degrees as in the rear drive setup and efficient helical gears are usually employed for the final drive set, losses are more on the order of 6 to 9 percent in the upper ratios.


So why 4th gear? In general, its what you call "direct drive" or "straight through" becoz of its 1 to 1 ratio, so the most optimal gear due to the least loss through drivetrain and best power reading at the wheels on the dyno!

As an example - R3 quotes about 12% loss to the drivetrain from the flywheel while Links would quote 18%. Just for kicks, let's say we have a 125whp reading from a SR3 from both dynos.


125whp + 12% = 140bhp
125whp + 18% = 147.5bhp


Do you see the discrepancy? But in general, dynos are not fantastically accurate. There are many variables to consider and these variables influence the final result. However, it is proven that dynos run on 4th are more accurate.


Dynos are a good way to benchmark your car, as a stepping stone to tune and mod it, but don't take single, one-off readings as a definitive.


Hope this helps man!

Crash,

Thanks for trying to answer, apprraciate it. More questions of course.

The scenario : '93 power at engine is rated 138.5bhp std. Dynoed at DMT got 100WHP. Dynoed at Links got almost the same figure. Third gear of course. ( The same car had been dynoed at Speedworks and N1 as well but showed a bit higher figure - but undestandable because of their type of dyno with N1 giving out almost 8% higher and Speedworks about 5% higher.)

Now let we try to calculate the power at the engine.

-New Power at engine = Std power at engine / power at wheels x New power at wheels.
-New Power at engine = 138.5 / 100WHP x 100WHP
= 138.5.BHP

Now the Questions:

a) Is the formula used correct?
b) If it is correct, it shows the power loss through the drive train plus the beltings for aircond/powersteering/waterpump ect is 27.8%.
c) Is it true that regardless of 3rd or 4th gear used, if we took the above mentioned formula to calculate the power, it will give a consistant, repeatable and acceptable result?
d) From my observations, Proton Motorsports tends to give a much lower power loss % thus giving at the engine power a very low figure. What formula it uses?
e) Top tuners around the world ( I'm talking US, UK and Aus) tend to use 3rd gear to dyno cars (na and force induction), I observe that my method/formula of calculating WHP and EHP is similar to them. That is not the case with R3.
f) From my observations again, the honda cars will tend to show a higher WHP compare to Mitsubishi car ( on the same dyno calculated using above formula). Is it safe to assume that Honda has a lower drive train power loss compare to Mitsu?

Anyones that has a good answer to my questions is welcome to give their opinions. Thanks in advance.

Cheers.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

S
Replies
243
Views
21K

Posts refresh every 5 minutes




Search

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience